The good lady's type walk.....Port Appin to Clach Thoull

 Walk: Port Appin to Clach Thoull (Hole in the Rock)

View across Loch Linnhe to Kingairloch, beyond the bright blue sky day!

The weather forecast was for clear blue skies all day and it might have been for some as you can see in the snap but not for us!!

After our very misty short hill walk we came back to sea level and drove along the single track road the delightful small hamlet of Port Appin. I had hoped to visit this spot earlier in the year to get the ferry over to Lismore and cycle the island. The good lady was with me today so that was not an option. Instead the short circular walk to Clach Thoull was more her idea of fun.

Despite the lingering low cloud slightly higher it was lovely at sea level.

Ferry pier on right and Lismore on left

The walk starts behind the hotel walking past some nice houses and steep tree lined crags, then soon coming across a viewpoint area. Three different information boards and superb views over to Lismore and beyond. People were standing on the jetty, presumably waiting for the ferry, a lovely spot to spend some time.

Great Northern Diver

On the calm waters we potted a couple of Great Northern Divers, many cormorants and shags all regularly diving for their lunch.

Canada Geese

The sound of silence was rudely interrupted by the loud honking of geese. Around 20 were flying low across the water but then they kept coming in waves, I reckoned about 200 in total.

Walking on the trees were full of the normal suspects, Robins, Blackbirds and Thrushes.

Clach Thoull

Next stop was the first of two natural sea arches, this one named as Clach Thoull, both of which you can walk through. It was interesting to reflect on all the current climate discussions that at one time the sea level was clearly higher than it is just now for the crashing sea waters to have cut out these arches.

Lynn of Lorn

Cormorant

We took the short track through the bracken to the point of the headland, another tranquil spot with great views. On the near rocks a Grey Heron stood hunched and motionless, probably already fed. A Great Black Backed Gull on the further rocks and a Grey Seal’s snout and head showed briefly.

Walking back a great shot of how trees grow straight out of granite rock, no soil structure, quite amazing.

2nd arch, tried to get away but she found me

We rounded the headland and walked through the second arch with plenty of birds around. Airds Bay was at low tide but had very few birds on the mudflats today.

Then a short but beautiful woodland walk, amazing autumn colours still hanging on here. Birch, Oak, Hawthorn, Ash, Rowan, Holly & Sycamore, quite a mix.

Finally back to Port Appin and the unusual lighthouse lantern full of local information boards, a local historical exhibition. Some were hard to read because of condensation so a wee winter restoration project for some locals perhaps.

Overall a delightful short ramble in a beautiful part of the country and a large and varied amount of birds for a short ramble.

Ascent: 43m

Distance: 2.49km

Time: 1.01

Wildlife: Grey Seal; Canada Geese; Buzzard; Great Black Backed Gull; Hooded Crow; Herring Gull; Coal Tit; Blackbird; Robin; Redpoll’ Redwing; Dunlin; Goldfinch; Chaffinch;

Wild and windy on a Pictish hillfort tour.....Bennachie

Hill: Bennachie (The hill of the nipple or pap)

Type: Sub2k

Height: 528m

Plan A had been to tick off the Fiona of Hunt Hill but the weather forecast had changed big style since yesterday. Although the air quality was to be excellent the winds were forecast as exceptionally strong. Indeed the MWIS forecast for the Eastern Munro summits was ‘Impossible to walk’, I have seen all sorts described but never seen impossible on a clear day, but take heed I must.

Plan B was to visit this renowned Pictish hill fort circuit. For some reason on Walkhighlands it is named as Bennachie after the range of hills, but there are two hills to visit, neither named Bennachie and only one of them is a Sub2k, despite just 10m of height difference, very odd and more later. This circuit has been on my to-do list for a few years so it was a good opportunity to get it done.

I parked up at the large parking area situated in a pine forest called Back O Bennachie. Well laid out with a toilet block but of course you have to pay. It was a reasonable charge at £2.50 for 3 hours or £3 all day. The all day was the one I needed. Usual problem the machine would not move on from coin only payment to accept a card but luckily I had £2.50 in change in the car. Not really enough but would I be back in time or get fined for 50p?

As I changed the light breeze was gently shaking the tree tops and the pine needles were dropping down slowly, just like snowflakes. By the time I headed off I was covered in orange needles.

As Bennachie is Aberdeen's high ground play area it is popular and well laid out with a myriad of trails. Everything is well signposted so no excuse for getting lost. 

Hopefully that does not get blown down the track

As I climbed through the initial tree section it was another reminder of how much damage Storm Arwen caused a few years back. Despite a lot of tree cutting much more remains to be done to fully open up all the trails around here.

Just before I exited the treeline the wind was much stronger and the trees were swaying and noisy. Out of the relative tree shelter warmer gear was required, a sign of what lay ahead.

The two peaks in the distance are Little Conval & Meikle Conval at Dufftown

I followed a very well constructed dirt path with many stone sections. A short detour took me to the first viewpoint at the quarry, Little Oxen Craig, wind gusts were already very strong.

Oxen Craig

Larger peak on right is Ben Rinnes

Oxen Craig viewfinder looking to Mither Tap

Then back on the track where I kept climbing to Oxen Craig, the true Sub2k. However, the final metres were difficult, the wind was very strong and gusty. When I reached the viewpoint pillar I had to hold onto it to take in the views. As the forecast said excellent long distance views, pity it wasn't a day to enjoy them.

Brief stop before dropping off Oxen and taking the good track to the second hill, Mither Tap, the site of the Pictish fort.

Mither Tap left or right?

When I dropped down the wind had eased and for about 15mins the going was fine. As Mither Tap neared I could see a track on either side. I opted for the left side thinking it was on the sheltered side but not to be. The wind and gusts were far stronger than Oxen, making even normal walking tough going.

Best remains of a Pictish hillfort entrance that I have visited

Apologies but the sign was in very poor condition

As I neared the top and the path petered out. I looked up at the top from this angle, the top about 20 metres higher, but in-between a steep boulder field needed ascending. I was not risking it in these winds. This is a tourist hill so there must be an easier way I muttered to myself. I crabbed over some crappy stuff, trying to keep my balance and found the real ascent track on the other side which went up through the amazing remains of the Iron Age fort. There is a well constructed winding stone stepped staircase to the top which in good conditions would be no problem for most.  But it is exposed and I was very careful as a strong gust meant a dangerous fall.

Sitting beside the trig to avoid getting blown away and try to get a snap without the shakes

On the top of Mither Tap the winds were the strongest of the day. So much so that I crouched my way to the two structures, the trig and the viewpoint. Holding on for dear life I took in the vista. It is truly a superb viewpoint justifying a fortress being built here.

I was even more careful on the descent from the top, some bum sliding to avoid the gusts and with relief reached the big stone shelter. 

A skein of 50+ geese appeared struggling to make ground flying into these winds, find a field to rest I yelled, they ignored me.

Although the paths are well constructed the strong winds were blowing fragments of grit into my eyes, no goggles of course.

Descending from Mither Tap that is Oxen Craig but I was contouring towards the trees

I followed the route to Craigshannoch but passed on another top and contoured the heather to re-join the ascent track and back to the car.

Another objective achieved, just a pity that wind was so strong.

Ascent: 488m

Distance: 9.6km

Time: 2.46

Wildlife: Blue Tit; Pink Footed Geese

A fabulous short ramble.....Glencoe Lochan

 Walk: Glencoe Lochan

On a short trip with the good lady I was looking for some short but scenic rambles that she could enjoy and this looked like a perfect opportunity to explore a rarely visited part of Glencoe village.

There is a well appointed car park but be warned it is a pay car park that does not take cash/card, mobile phone only payment system that come with dodgy reputations so you might be better to park in the village and walk the ‘hard’ extra 5 minutes.

This short circuit was a blockbuster for this time of the year, a short option but one that I would highly recommend for anyone wanting to stretch their legs on their way north or staying in the area.

Good lady eager to get on with it

What's good about it? Actually rather a lot. It is mainly a woodland walk, the trees being planted back in the 1800’s by The Earl of Strathcona to make his Canadian wife feel less homesick, didn't work as she went back to Canada. Still there are a lot of impressive trees, unfortunately a lot non native along with invasive shrubs . Throw in a small but very scenic lochan. There are 3 official coloured walking routes but our ramble incorporated all three.

She is doing well

But still more to come

Pap of Glencoe from the top of the trail

Initially a short but steep climb through the trees, up the blue ‘Mountain Trail’, steep for the good lady, before we got some hill views dominated by the Pap of Glencoe but also more views across Loch Leven.

Down to the lochan and out of the trees, Beinn a Bheithir was silhouetted on the calm water, stunning Autumn view.

No sooner up before we were heading back down to the lochan. We had seen some Redwings in the trees up top but out in the open they were flying over the lochan in huge numbers, hundreds were seen.

From another angle looking back is The Pap

Rounding the lochan a Great Spotted Woodpecker was hammering away, so loud. I cannot remember hearing one so obvious like this at this time of the year, always associated them knocking with Spring. It is a beautiful spot with Beinn a Bheithir silhouetted on the calm water. That brings back memories of a very hot day.

On the final section this American invasive shrub dominated, Gaultheria Shallon

Antler scrape?

The last section was another lovely woodland but at times many trees by storm damage. Mighty Douglas Firs and Sequoias amidst our traditional trees like Ash, Beech, Rowan, Oak etc. Also passed this which was the right height for a red deer to scrape its antlers against.

Looking across to the Corbett Mam na Gualainn with interesting clouds forming

Back at the car zoomed in on these dramatic Altocumulus clouds

A cracking short term ramble which highlighted the beauty and impact of a Highland woodland. The colours and structures were amazing. I was also taken by just how much bird noise there was. As it is Autumn it was obviously not the breeding season but clearly there was a lot of bonding calling going on as groups moved through the trees.

A wee ramble we will do again.

Ascent: 147m

Distance: 2.9

Time: 1.14

Wildlife: Great Spotted Woodpecker; Great Tit; Coal Tit; Long Tailed Tit; Robin;

A short walk to a Neolithic cairn.....Creigh Hill

Hill: Creigh Hill

Type: Sub2k

Height: 497m

On the way home from my short trip I wanted a quick up and down not too far off my journey. Additionally the forecast was for rain from lunchtime onwards. I decided on Creigh Hill from the lovely Backwater Reservoir. I had intended to do this a few years back when I did Hare Cairn on the other side of the reservoir but as I recall it had been a hot sweaty day and one hill had been enough.

Although it is only a minor hop and a skip hill it has the interesting attraction of being the site of a Neolithic cairn or two if you go to both tops.

I will never tire of driving around the Angus hills, it is a spectacular area and largely devoid of people. So, when I arrived at the parking area I was surprised to see half a dozen cars parked up and assumed it was a local walking group up on the same hills. But as I put my boots on I heard female voices laughing and screaming. Looked down to the reservoir to see a group wild swimming, good on them.

Good track to start with

There is an ATV track just beside the parking area, a climb over a fence and I was on my way. After a couple of minutes I came across a small sheep which did not run away but just watched me as I walked by. Later I reflected that this was the only sheep I had seen on the ramble, I wondered if it got missed at the round up and was now kinda lonely.

From that angle it looked as if the weather was going to break

Track no more

I followed the track, huffing and puffing until I reached a fence and a gate. Looking across to my summit there is a lot more heather than grass en route so I continued up a bit more before cutting across diagonally to reach a deer fence. I sprung a pair of grouse but thought I would have sprung more with the amount of heather around, maybe they have mostly been slaughtered. Awkward walking until near the top I stumbled across a narrow beaters track which took me to the fence.

I hoped that there would be a rough track of sorts beside the fence and that proved correct. Now it was a case of following the deer fence to the top. On my left were beautiful views of the patchwork hills in Glen Quharity & Glen Dye, no doubt a shooting estate. The rather large country pile I took to be Balintore Castle.

At a fence junction another clamber over and a short way up was the summit of Creigh Hill and the Neolithic burial chamber of Cairn Motherie. The cairn boulders have been rearranged over the years to create a walkers shelter. I understand that it has never been excavated but it is believed to be undamaged below ground and should contain deposits of whatever.

Excellent views of the Angus hills but some are covered in very low cloud and with the strong winds the clouds and rain look to be coming in this direction. Over the glen was Cat Law a Fiona I did way back.

Across the reservoir the trees heading for Hare Cairn have been deforested, I presume a track has been left through the debris.

There is a twin top about a kilometre away containing another burial chamber. If the weather had been better I would have tramped across the rough moor but not today, this north top is recognised as the true top and that was good enough for me.

This perspective makes the deer fence look like a wide track, it was not!

As I descended I could hear some stags briefly roaring across in the Glens but none to be seen.

I missed my beaters track so a rough heather plod got me back to the grassy section and the ATV track.

Sun broke out for about two  minutes turning the water blue. Car parked at the trees.

On the descent nice views over the reservoir and the large dam. It is a large bit of water which supplies Dundee and the surrounding areas with their supplies.

Overall another wee ramble that did as I hoped. The trees around the parking area were full of birds so a pleasant half hour listening and watching was a perfect end. Just that drive home!

Ascent: 203

Distance: 2.9k

Time: 1.22

Wildlife: Red Grouse; Buzzard; Coal Tit; Treecreeper; Robin; Meadow Pipit; Goldcrest; Dunnock; Chaffinch; Peewit 20+