Red clay & Red grouse.....Dirrington Great Law

Hill: Dirrington Great Law

Type: Sub2k

Height: 398m

Another short ramble today which completes my Lammermuir Hills collection. Although Dirrington is a few miles away from the main range it is considered part of the Lammermuir's albeit as an outlier.

A short drive, only 5 miles or so from Duns, but it feels much more remote and isolated. If it were not for a couple of farms around it would be considered an area on non human habitation.

I parked up beside a gate and got ready in a temperature not far off zero but it was calm, no wind.

The direct approach

From the start I had a good view of Dirrington and whilst it might not be a big hill from this view it had a slightly pointed triangular shape, that will do fine.

My option

There are basically 2 options for the hill. Go cross country in a direct line from the gate and take on whatever the terrain throws at you. Or follow the estate tracks in a round about way. I was in no rush so I went for the latter.

Sadly Dirrington has many heather patches in view so no doubting that it is still an active grouse moor.

I started up the track tramping through the squelchy infamous red mud. Was it a by product of some old mining? Had a look later but nothing like that shown on the map.

On one side the water was still frozen, actually looked picturesque but no summer temperatures here.

As I walked through the recently planted trees I noticed movement coming my way. A brown hare, eyes down focused on the track, lopped towards me. When only feet away it realised I was there and stopped dead. We had a stare out. I slowly moved my hand to get my camera but of course it reacted to that and jumped sideways into the heather patches and disappeared. Just minutes after another one appeared but that one was more aware and disappeared as soon as it spotted me.

Browsing sheep were in and about the newly planted trees so just as well the trees had plastic protectors. From my very inexperienced eyes it looked like most were surviving.

It didn’t take too long to hear to hear and spot my first red grouse. As it turned out there were plenty around so a successful winter for this lot. What they don't know is that Autumn is their dangerous time!!

The track was meandering so I was walking away from my destination but it did not take too long for the track to start turning and head towards a stone dyke that I would follow to the top.

Behind me a large number of Greylag geese were being spooked by something. Their loud calling dominated the air as they rose, flew for a bit before dropping again. I could not see a flying predator so possibly a fox on the prowl agitated them. Still for a while I had constant honking as my background noise.

Now at the dyke there was no track but the heather had been cut in long strips so the walking was straightforward. Constantly jumping about as the dead heather is still strong and sharp edged and could damage my leather boots.

As I rose I noticed the other side of the dyke was lined with double electric wired fencing with regular yellow danger of death warning triangles. What is that all about on a hill like this? The sooner we get rid of these shooting estates the better.

The top areas were dotted with small snow patches but it was a moving patch of white that caught my eye. A hare in its white winter coat. Scotland’s only native hare. Interesting to see both varieties within just 100m of altitude difference but both are within their parameters. The mountain hare is now a protected species and should be numerous but I suspect the grouse moors still illegally cull them.

I can see my car

Reached the top which was flatter than it looked from the start, not quite so pointed up here, indeed no pointy bit at all. There are two pre historic cairns at the top which are estimated to be bronze age. 

It can be clearly seen that there are mounds of some sort but they are covered in heather. 

In between the mounds is the original trig which is in the sort of state I normally am on reaching a summit these days, lying on its side amongst the heather. It is unlikely to be replaced or refurbished, technology has marched on and trigs are now redundant.

The nearest Lammermuir Hills 

I was happy enough with the views particularly over to the snow covered main Lammermuir hills along with the higher Pentland hills, certainly more snow covered sitting in the distance. Nearer to hand it is a typical remote moor landscape. I could spot a few estate tracks but clearly this would be an easy place to get caught out in bad weather.

No such worries for me as I backtracked the same way. 

Almost back at the car I did have a laugh at a sight that I have never seen before. Approaching the tree plantation I spotted a distinct bird shape sitting in branches near the top of the tree. No leaves to hide it so just a dark silhouette. As I slowly approached it had spotted me and flew off as did another three bursting from other branches that I had not noticed. All with the familiar red grouse cry. I had seen a pheasant from time to time fly from a tree but never a red grouse and certainly not four of them. Possibly practising evading the autumn shooters.

Sights and sounds, my senses in action, that's why I love the great outdoors.

It was a fine ending to a very pleasant and interesting short ramble. One of the hares showed itself again but once again too quick for a snap. But those gaiters and boots covered in red mud, time for a clean up!!

Ascent: 211m

Distance: 5.4km

Time: 1.34

Wildlife: Brown Hare: Mountain Hare; Raven; Carrion Crow; Red Grouse; Greylag Geese

A short ramble to another ancient fort and the most easterly Sub2k.....Lamberton Hill

Hill: Lamberton Hill

Type: Sub2k

Height: 217m

It was the time to get my To-Do list moving, to kick out of my winter malaise and get my Mo-Jo going. With the weather still being mixed the better forecast was for the east of the country so I decided to get started with a Borders raid on 2 small Sub2k’s.

The easiest way to get to the start of Lamberton was heading up to Glasgow, across to Edinburgh and down the A1 almost to England. At least it was motorway/dual carriage way for most of the trip and without traffic issues, so far so good.

It wasn’t a concern as such but as I travelled eastwards the clouds were a lot more threatening than the forecast had suggested, with the car being buffeted by the high winds, interesting.

Walkhighlands ‘Lamberton Hill joined the ranks of the Marilyn’s following a resurvey on 7th June 2013. It is set in enclosed pastures not far from the border with England’.

Lamberton Hill is definitely in the top percentile of easiest Sub2k’s and another that raises the eyebrows, why did it get its categorisation? But not for me to debate, I am just bagging the Walkhighlands blue balloons so it has to be done. But read on it is not without interest and the locale is not just a farmers field.

The other reason for getting it done early is because the top lies in the middle of a big field which from previous reports is often full of cattle along with the odd bull! I hoped that lot would still be in their barns. When the coos are involved I always look for the easy option.

No easy obvious parking on the single track road so fully pulled on to the grassy verge just in case a tractor came by as not much room and I can do without a scratched car.

That wind I mentioned earlier was indeed much stronger and much colder than I expected so even though it was a short walk I was dressed accordingly.

No sign of any cattle so I jumped the fence and headed up the grassy slopes, staying close to the fence just in case they appeared. But this fence was electrified so I had my gloves on not just for the cold.

Alert signalled, I spotted some movement but it was just 3 tups. By god they are of the ugly variety but as they had done their job months earlier, testosterone would be low and they only saw me as a food provider, not danger.

Monitoring post & trig

The field I was in does lead to the unmarked high point of Lamberton Hill. But to confuse things there is another field on my right which has a trig point but according to the map is 2 metres lower. This might be Ayton Hill.

As I had no time barriers I took the opportunity to visit the trig just in case.

Before the trig was an interesting construction which is the remains of a Royal Observer Corps monitoring post. A Cold War relic for monitoring planes and radiation and there will be an underground complex below it, now sealed off.

I wandered back to the other field to find the true high point, it was fairly obvious to the eye but did use GPS to confirm. 

Not even a stone to mark it. Plenty of dried cattle dung so if you come to bag at the wrong time they will be here as well.

There was a further reason to be interested as next to this field is the remains of an iron age hill fort (Habchester). Estimated to be between 2000 and 2500 years old. I do like standing at historical sites letting the mind and imagination wander, what was it like?

The kind farmer has recently planted a line of trees between it and the field. Most of the plastic tubes had something protruding from the top so hopefully successful. But he has put a double electrified wire fence on either side of the plantings and the only wooden styles have barbed wire on the tops, nice one.

I wandered down the field and did find a gate that let me into the forts. There are two clear structures with a walkway/ditch in between them. The remainder of the fort on the lower slopes presumably flattened by years of farming. The views east and north are superb for the fort but I suspect there must be another one close to give warnings of attacks from the SW. Still as said always good to stand at points of history and let your thoughts roam.

Back down to the car with views over to the see with the fields being used as a pig farm. Takes me back a few months to Moray.

Glad to get out of the wind and sheltered back in the car. As rambles go short and sweet but the monitoring post and hill fort certainly added to the history, education and enjoyment as well as bagging possibly the most eastern hill on the Scottish mainland, if not 1st at least 2nd.

Not too shabby at all for a nondescript hill that most people would turn their noses up at. I enjoyed my ramble with history.

Ascent: 103m

Distance: 2.1k

Time: 0.41min

Wildlife: Kestrel; Meadow Pipit;

Speyside Way.....Ballindalloch - Grantown on Spey

Walk: Speyside Way

Route: Ballindalloch – Grantown on Spey

By the standards of many other long distance walk sections this is relatively straightforward but for the Speyside Way this would be described as the Queens stage. That is a cycling term for the hardest or most difficult section. For sure it is the longest section if you exclude the optional Tomintoul loop and it has the most ascent of any section so it deserves its description. The ascent is undulating with several short steep sections rather than a full on climb.

Using public transport was not really an option so the good lady drove me to the start at Ballindalloch. A couple of overnighting camper vans were in the small parking area, the smell of bacon wafting around. Enticing but it was not for us and anyway I had eaten back at the hotel.

The last time I had been at this spot was when I cycled the previous stage and would have turned for the return cycle. It was clear from the route description that cycling much of this section was not an option and indeed that was the case.

Now a private house

An early morning stroll for just over a mile along the old railway line was amazing for the variety of singing birds. A woodpecker was hammering away, from the noises clearly changing trees but I could not spot it. Yet again Jays were calling another regular feature of my Moray rambles. The usual suspects were amongst the singing mixture but also included a male Blackcap. A flash of movement caught my eye flashing through the trees. Obviously a raptor it was a stunning chestnut brown. Sadly I did not see any other distinguishing marks. It was probably a buzzard but it looked smaller and flew faster than expected but not aware of any other raptor than could be so brown. The Spey was in sight alongside this section but despite the name of the walk I would not see it too often.

Turning left and taking a route towards the main road I was now in the first of the many fenced in sections that have been installed to keep walkers away from livestock, mainly cattle, more on this later. I met a couple of foreign walkers who were on a self sustained trip roughly based on the Moray trail. As it turned out they were the only walkers I met until the Abernethy forest near Grantown.

Buzzard approaching

Out onto fields and scrub, it was a potentially muddy section with walk boards to assist. Pheasants ran around and a pair of buzzards were on the hunt, I presume a pheasant is too big for them, maybe not as from the pheasants reactions they were taking no chances.

Crossed the A95 where there was a faint trail to follow, some light trees shielded me from the road traffic.

The track left the road heading up to the Garvault plantation. As I climbed I spotted a brown hare lopping around, it saw me and headed to some long reeds where it hunkered down. 

Garvault plantation

Not really sure why it is this weird design

I also encountered my 1^st set of chain gates. Unique to me and I didn’t fully understand the benefit of them. As a walker they were awkward to get through. Easily 30+ of them.

Nice to fet a break in the trees for a view

Up through the trees until I came to an old but very wide forest track. A pleasant saunter until I met the indicator which sent me steeply back down.

Brief view of the Cromdale hills

Across some scrubland where it was nice to have views of the Cromdale hills before heading back up and into another plantation, the Woods of Knockfrink. There is a lot of forest plantation walking on this rambler, just me and the trees so be warned. I spotted another raptor flying through the trees, much narrower wings so either a Sparrowhawk or better still a Goshawk. Once again just a quick sighting and far enough away in the trees to recognise any features other than shape.

Heading to farmland for a few miles

I left these trees to head through Meiklepark Wood before heading down to Mains of Dalvey Farm. Again hemmed in by fencing and chain gates it was bizarre. Short sections would then open up to a section of open field to cross so if any livestock was around you were still walking through them.

A lot of the fencing was derelict and unmaintained by the farmer and at one point two only days old lambs were inside. Two young to move out of my way. The ewe was getting distressed so I had to do a loop across the field agitating other ewes and lambs but not as close walking as the 1^st pair.

The walking was really awkward in the narrow confines and I was keeping my eye on a herd of cows and youngsters who were well aware of my presence but far enough away to not be agitated. Of course at the end of their field I had to leave the fence safety and go through their field for a short section.

The next narrow section now had me on full alert as there were fresh coo pats in the metre wide walkway, the joys.

At the next turn I headed downhill where another field of cows and calves had spotted me. I had to turn and walk alongside the fence, extremely flimsy I thought and the mothers were starting to circle and staring at me. I was edgy as I contoured very close to them, even more so when I saw that the fence had been flattened so not even that protection.

There only looks a few of them the rest are in ambush mode

Eyes down I got past them and turned the zig zag where I saw the gates I had to go through was right beside a feeding station and more cows and calves were staring at me. The calves looked days old as well and 3 of them were right at the gate. They were on the other side but the mothers were right alongside the fence and were now getting agitated at seeing me, mooing loudly the rest joining in. the farmer knew what he was doing when he sited that feeding station, a few swear words were uttered in his direction.

No way was I risking that so I decided to climb the lower fence into a ploughed field. A double barbed wire fence, for walkers not the crops!! A few tags to the trousers and more swearing. Walked across his field hoping his bloody crop fails.

Ideal breeding ground!!

Back into yet another tree section, Tom an Uird Wood. I was getting a bit fed up of trees but when I exited these trees it was to find the usual end of the world landscape scene of deforestation. At least I could see Cromdale ahead and I also saw the Spey once again. There was a sign that I should have snapped warning the lumber drivers to take care as this was a Capercaillie breeding are, the irony!

Final hemmed in section still had to be wary

Back onto the old railway line all the way to Cromdale, grassy, softer on the feet nice but hemmed in again. More open sections with cattle around so still keeping a look out.

Finally arrived at Cromdale which is an interesting location where a battle with Cromwell's forces effectively ended the Jacobite rebellion albeit the Scots claimed victory out of defeat, not for the last time. The battle is also famous for being the first reported instance of hand thrown explosive devices being used in combat.

Yes there is a River Spey plus Cromdale Kirk

Crossed the Spey to find a sign indicating 2.5 miles to Grantown via the forest route or 4 miles via the riverside. Guess what I opted for? After about 10 minutes walking I came across another sign Grantown 2.5 miles, not happy.

So the final forest walk of the section. I have to say that the 2.5 mile ramble through the Anagach wood was just a few trees too many. I was overheated as I had dressed for the forecast of heavy spring showers with possible hail and none appeared. Now it was just a warming sun.

Although I had seen a lot of wildlife I had hoped to see the crested Tit on this section but not to be.

My legs were feeling it so I was relieved when I reached Grantown.

Overall it was a good ramble with the exception of the near cattle encounters. It was my last section of the Speyside Way which were spread over a few years so there was the added satisfaction of completing another of Scotland’s long distance routes.

Ascent: 566m

Distance: 24..17km

Time: 5.59

Wildlife: Brown Hare; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Blackcap; Chaffinch; Robin; Blackbird; Woodpecker; Wren; Pheasant; Buzzard; Goldeneye; Mallard; Peewit; Wood Pigeon; Meadow Pipit; Jay; Willow Warbler; Dipper; Treecreeper,

Biking the Speyside Way.....Craigellachie - Ballindalloch

Speyside Way: Craigellachie – Ballindalloch

A few days ago this option looked like the perfect cycling day but I was woken by a heavy shower battering the windows. Decision time, I had completed all the walks that I had planned, indeed more than I had planned, but I did not want a wasted day.

Sadly showers for most of the day was the forecast on the BBC report. Along with temperatures dropping and turning much colder. As always on a solo trip throw everything into the car so I had all my wet weather gear thus it was a goer.

I parked slightly away from the formal start as I wanted to visit the Telford Bridge on my return.

As said on my last report navigating whilst cycling is an issue so I hummed and hawed about heading down to a wooded car park, no Speyside Way signage but this looked an obvious spot. Fortunately I did and I was correct.

I knew that this entire section would be relatively flat and would not need my dubious navigating skills as it is almost a straight line following the river. Wow, actually following the river was a bit of a novelty. So no deviations unless I opted for one of the several offered on route. But none of these deviations were planned for me today, with the forecast I wanted the straight out and back route.

From the start this was a beautiful eye catching bike ride. At this time of year the trees were vibrant bursts of colour but so was the track. I was constantly riding on a bed of fallen leaves and pine needles, all shades, quite stunning.

Plus for a large part of the cycle I actually had the River Spey in sight, even at eye level, miracles will never cease.

As I skirted Aberlour the 1^st of three heavy showers dropped a deluge on me but dubious balancing skills I got my hood up and continued on my way.

As someone who was occasionally partial to a malt it was fantastic to be cycling past so many distilleries right beside the track, the aroma frequently made me think about stopping a buying a bottle.

Dailuaine, I liked the simplicity but would have liked a wee bit of info, guess its a private remembrance.

I always stop and take a look at War Memorials when I pass them but this oh so simple one was interesting. No names, why and how I don't know but it was effective.

Apparently free camping here for Speyside Way walkers. Multi bird feeders so presumably a private house.

Another highlight of this section is that for the most part you are cycling along the old railway track. Some are abandoned stations with a some of the structure left, buildings and platforms, but others have been converted into homes.

Not only are there plenty of tourist snap opportunities it wouldn't be the River Spey without the Salmon fishing huts. Not sure how many fishing beats this section is divided into but there were a lot of huts around but a lack of anglers.

Today’s daft question is how fast does a male pheasant run? Well after surprising 3 different males at different times today they all took off down the track running in front of me for about 100 yards. We maintained the same distance on each occasion and the speed was just over 10mph. I had a laugh shouting get out of the way your slowing me down. The females were more sensible, when spooked they immediately took off and flew into the trees, energy saved. It made me reflect on how many odd wildlife situations I have encountered over the years, I have been fortunate.

Another aspect of this stretch was just how many bridges/tunnels I went under/over/through there were so many. Some were very narrow and one memory was of a wooded narrow bridge just after Aberlour. It had a sign saying for safety a maximum 5 people at a time. Too narrow to cycle so I walked across, just me and the heavy Ebike and was aware of the wood creaking under me.

The section finished at another ex-station, Ballindalloch but for some reason the small parking area was sign posted as Cragganmore!

At the end of this section I took some time to reflect on a super bike ride, it would have been even better on a dry day but would have taken much longer as I would have stopped so often to take photos.

Highly recommended as a bike or walk at this time of the year.

Magnificent iron cast bridge with faux pas turrets at each end. No longer in use for road traffic.

Simply returned the same way. As I was passing Aberlour my senses were overwhelmed with a huge scent of sweetness. What was it I thought then I spotted the sign for the Walkers shortbread factory. It made a change from the aroma of the distilleries.

 So same route apart from the short extension to visit the magnificent Telford Bridge.

Back at the car cleaning the mud and debris off the bike before getting it on the bike rack was a big task in itself. It takes longer than cleaning walking boots but it did not spoil the day, it was a memorable bike ride.

Ascent: 68m

Distance: 40.9km

Time: 3.11

Wildlife: Pheasant; Jay; Goosander; Wood Pigeon; Jackdaw; Rook; Chaffinch; Great Tit; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Robin; Blackbird; Mallard