From the heights of joy to the depths of despair and back again.....Wisp & Pykethaw Hill circuit

Hill: Wisp Hill (595m) & Pykethaw Hill (564m)

Type: Sub2k x2

I was on the final stretch of my South of Scotland hill bagging with only a few toughies left and I knew that this pair of Sub2k’s would certainly be a challenge for my fitness. I had waited for a weather break and today promised to be blue skies but alongside cold winds so it was wrap up time.

From reading previous walk reports I realised that there were a few starting points for these hills but none of these avoided the pathless moorland ascent. Additionally all bar one route, which really only suited an assault on Wisp alone, meant you were straight on it climbing from the start.

A cold start out of the sun

I parked at the 1^st layby on the A7 after Ewes farm and walked the short distance to a gate alongside the busy A7 before clambering up the grassy verge, then over a fence and up to a pylon maintenance track. Great I thought at the time but don’t get too enthusiastic if following my route as it lasted less than 5 minutes before the rough ground had to be tackled.

Initially I was grateful to find a single file well trodden narrow track which was by passing the tussocks and other rough stuff. I pondered what might have caused these tracks and then looking upwards I spotted a pair of roe deer and wondered if these were my friends. 

On the run again

As it turned out I encountered them over half a dozen times throughout the ramble. This time, as well as the rest, they looked at me briefly then bounded away. I was so envious of how elegantly and effortless they made getting up a hill look.

The animal tracks were found and just as quickly lost before re-finding another one. I huffed and puffed as I rose steeply heading round the western flank of Whin Fell.

As you look my descent would go right of the tree onto the lighter patches and then down the shadow line

From up here I had a super view over to my 2^nd hill, Pikethaw Hill and my descent back to Eweslees Burn. From here it looked pretty steep.

Contouring around Whin Fell was the worst section of the walk. Even the animals didn’t come round this way. I could see an ATV track going up Wisp Hill but getting over to it took a lot longer than the distance had suggested in my mind. My roe deer buddies were already bounding up the hill, showing off.

Wisp Hill

I was pleased to reach the track and now all that was left was a 100m slow plod up to the trig point at 595m.

Reasonable views but mainly over the moors and in the distance the highest prominent hill was Rubers Law, the hill of the cattle as I recall from my time up there.

Rough going

Next I had an ATV track and a fence to follow as I descended the 300m down Ewenshope Fell. It was pretty rough going at times. Annoyingly I always had a constant view of my ascent back up Pikethaw. So the further I dropped the more daunting it became. A farmer passed me going up on the other side of the fence, gave me a wave, he was he only person I met. Looking over where he had been the going looked easier so I hopped the fence and it was, a lot better. Lots of patches of short grass and fewer tussocks. 

Better going this side

The easier walking allowed me to take in the views where there were sheep dotted all over the landscape. You would certainly need an ATV to get to where these sheep were, as said a wild rough and remote landscape.

Finally I arrived at the fence junction called Ewes Doors on the map, that apparently was an ancient defensive point of the pass between Ewesdale & Teviotdale.? Looking back down from the slopes of Pikethaw I could see disturbed linear ground which were defensive ditches. So close to England everything seems to have English rather than Scottish place names.

From Pikethaw slopes looking back to descent from Wisp

Time for an energy gel before the steep climb. Initially there was the ATV track but that soon disappeared and I was left wandering through patches of a grassy tussock that was new to me. The good thing was that these tussocks were well spaced out so I could meander through rather than on top of them.

I was feeling good, these gels really do work. 

As I meandered I had an even better surprise when out of the corner of my eye I spotted the huge cairn. Due to the terrain I had wandered away from the fence line so surprised to see it and I had obviously made good time.

The cairn is located slightly over the brow of the hill and it is a huge cairn with much stone debris scattered and buried in the surrounding area. It marks the site of a prehistoric burial cairn and also the watch fort for the Roman garrison below at Ewes Door.

I had two choices for the descent. Having said earlier my original one looked steep but from the summit the second option of staying higher would have crossed a lot of peat hagged moor along with a longer walk back to the car so I stuck with option 1.

I left the cairn and knew I had to stay to my left/west as my snap earlier showed just how steep the crags into the gulley were.

Left of pine then heading for the small plantation

I also knew I had to go left/west of the lonesome pine in same snap before cutting back east to avoid more steep ground before heading down to the burn.

Just after the tree I took a snap looking towards the small tree plantation where I was headed. This point was to be memorable, more of this later.

On the final stretch or so I thought

The descent was slow going as steep and mainly pathless lots of stuff to trip me up but I was in no rush, so steady Des mode paid off.

I headed to the small tree plantation wondering about the economics/reasoning for planting such a small wood. Surely not a pheasant rearing area, seemed small but a possibility.

I expected to cross one burn but it turned out to be two, my creaking legs were glad that I had poles to assist, long jumping is no more for me.

After the wood I headed up to the fence, walked alongside it a bit then went through an old gate to the other side which was a mistake. The next section was me kicking my way through a very narrow slot beside the fence through dead bracken. For sure this would not be an option later in the year.

I observed a pair of Ravens performing magnificent aerobatics probably as part of their bonding. However, I was laughing shortly after as I spotted a female hen harrier contouring the hillside . When she came round a flank and saw the ravens it made an elegant but swift U-turn heading back the way she came. But the ravens either didn't see her or more likely were not interested so no pursuit took place. It was a pleasant coincidence in that I had not seen a hen harrier for yonks then in the space of a week I have seen both a male and a female in different locations.

Glad to be away from the bracken I followed the track to my start point and then back down the A7 to the car.

I dropped off my rucksack and as always went to let the good lady know I was back at the car. To my horror I realised that my top pocket was unzipped and there was no phone.

Thinking time taken. I realised that the only thing I knew for sure of my last awareness of the phone was that I had taken a snap of the descent but the location was only ever to be a guesstimate.

I had to do something so I walked back my track so far but realised this was not a serious option so decided to return back to base which was an hour away, to contact the good lady on the off chance she might be concerned and also to clear my mind and better review my options.

On the way I stopped at two phone booths, neither took cash and only a credit card could be used. I had change but only a debit card another lesson learned.

What turned out to be a really promising and interesting day had turned to despair. Such is life but don't lose your phone it has lots of implications.

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The following day:

Unsurprisingly I had a very disturbed sleep which included downloading a banking app onto my iPad at 5am. They asked for another photo to be taken to pass verification from the one on file, hair everywhere, a sleepless face, not a pretty picture but I passed.

Before formally reporting my phone lost I decided to have a short search backtracking my route. On my iPad find my phone it showed the last location as the layby where I started my walk. I assumed phone location might be GPS but is purely mast pings only.

I had 4 possible locations but they were big maybes the reality was it could be anywhere.

I clambered up to location 1 where I flat crossed a fence deep grass around. I had brought my iPad and tried the make the noise function but nothing happened. Similarly my watch also had that function but also no response. Searched the grass anyway.

Onwards I went following my Gps as close in as I could. Funnily spotted the two deer on the same slopes I first saw them yesterday. They ran off no doubt thinking not again.

It was interesting following the exact line as at times I thought I had been slightly higher or lower. Slow going as my eyes were focused both on the Gps as well as the ground.

After a couple of kilometres I got to the 2^nd point where I had slipped on muddy ground, found the mud heap, raked about but no phone.

Ya beauty!!

Moved on to a burn I had jumped. I looked at a spot that I thought I had used but the Gps said a bit further up. I recognised the small rock that I had stood on on the far side so looked around and was astounded to spot the phone, wow what relief. As I landed and leaned forward the impact must have jolted the phone out of my pocket. Went to phone the good lady but of course no signal. Interestingly when I looked at the screen a message showed that it had been contacted by ‘find my phone’. I had tried both watch and iPad a few times but don't know which worked.

Never mind all was good again. It was still early morning and my legs were tired with my lack of sleep but I decided to make a day of it and go for Ellson Fell.

Ascent: 695m + 128m (823m)

Distance: 9.3km + 4.2km (13.5km)

Time: 4.21 + 1.32 (5.53)

Wildlife: Nuthatch; Crossbill; Long Tailed Tit; Great Tit; Robin; Buzzard; Carrion Crow; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Roe Deer; Raven

A good choice of route.....Deuchar Law

Hill: Deuchar Law (possibly the drinking hill)

Type: Sub2k

Height: 543m

I was getting towards the end of my Borders journey which meant that the remaining hills to be tackled were the hills with the worst reputation for pathless moorland terrain.

Deuchar Law definitely came into that category as the few reports I found did not have a feel good factor about them. The final section of an almost 2 kilometre trek across typical upland Borders moorland, consisting of ankle twisting tussocks, heather patches and bog was not the most appealing. But I have ran out of options so needs must and Deuchar Law must be tackled.

The good news was that from my research I had come across one potential positive option. I was encouraged but time would tell how accurate it was.

I had decided that my ramble was going to be utilising the Southern Upland Way from Kirkhouse and then take the final section as it came. This route is also part of the Scottish Hill tracks route 22 from Traquair to Tibbie Shiels Inn. Although instead of the SUW I prefer its old name of the Gypsy Glen Drove Road, more evocative.

A grey cold day when I parked up at the start but the clouds were high and the forecasted rain was not due until I should be finished.

Various reports mentioned no parking around, therefore leading to some doing even more off route walking. But I parked at Traquair Kirk, right at the start. There were gates but it is also the parking for the cemetery so unlikely to be locked in. As it was I was the only car there.

The 1st of many stiles

Turned right off the main road then headed up the farm track to the first of about 10 stiles. There are a lot of sheep hereabouts.

A short steep climb was encountered before it eased to become a lovely gently rising gradient. Lots of stiles as I rambled alongside the edges of the fields but the rolling border hills were soon in view so lots of scenery to enjoy.

There were dried cow pats so I was always on alert as the SUW took me across fields rather than to the sides. But thankfully I never did come across them.

It was a beautiful spring day with the moor birds going for it big style. Skylarks were constantly rising and singing, so good to hear and a great backdrop. The underrated Meadow Pipits occasionally sang but it was their paired flying that made me gasp. So close together as they twist and turn at high speed like a couple of fighter planes in a dog fight. But these were about love and reproduction not violence, still the strongest most agile wins out. A sight that never disappoints.

After the grassy fields I reached the lower patches of heather where the Red Grouse were around even at these sparse heather patches.

Deuchar Law far right

I had gained enough height that I now had a sighting of my objective of Deuchar Law, it still looked a bit away.

As is the norm it was to disappear for a while as I continued my enjoyable ramble. Reached the high point of Blake Muir where it was time to concentrate.

The SUW descended and I could see it going back up to the high point alongside trees where my original pan was to leave the SUW and go cross country from there.

But my research indicated there was an ATV track going up the hill but even with much improved long vision I could see no sign of it.

When I reached the bottom style I was to take a right turn and head for an old gate which I could see, so far so good.

Getting over to the gate gave an indicator of the rough terrain ahead if I did not find the track.

Climbed over the old gate and there was the ATV track right in gront of me. Looking up the hill I could still see no sign of it progressing upwards but I was here so I followed it.

Upwards it rose through the moor, sometimes wet and marshy but so much better than the terrain either side of me. It did meander a bit but always turned again to head in the right direction.

It took me close to a wooden structure that I had spotted from the SUW. I have not seen anything like and had a closer route on the descent.

When almost at the top there was an offshoot track that appeared to be going to the summit. Indeed it did reach a flattish moorland area. A single stone but ahead looked slightly higher. Off I went into rough stuff glad I had not been walking through this from the SUW.

Then there it was, slightly hidden were a small pile of stones which marked the summit. 

`View towards Dun Rig and the Peebles horseshoe

White Coomb and other Moffat Hills

As a stand alone hill the views were fine but distant. Nothing really stood out but it was nice nevertheless.

The hump high point of Blake Muir

As it had been straightforward I obviously followed my route back to the SUW with a slight detour to that structure. It was a weird thing with the 3 wooden poles which had another plank attached. Iron rods stuck out of each of them and a small wired fence surrounded the enclosure. Absolutely stumped, my best guess is a net trap for ringing birds but probably far out.

I heard a skein of geese calling loudly on either side of me. I took a photo but as I raised my arms the nearside group suddenly turned away. I wonder if they had thought my raised arms was a hunter? Anyway once passed me they regrouped with the other group, probably about a hundred birds.

I had a great views on the descent down of the Border hills surrounding Innerleithen. The only other person I saw was a farmer on his quad bike who gave me a wave.

My attention was taken far in the distance over the Minch Moor trail where a group of corvids were mobbing a much larger bird, possibly one of the released Golden Eagles, they certainly gave it a hard time.

Then a flash of a light coloured raptor low flying over the moor and the forest, a male hen harrier, a good few years since I have seen one of those.

Back to the kirk and gates still open.

Overall a lovely ramble amidst beautiful Border landscape. Good going underfoot and the bonus of getting that ATV track all the way to the top. For all my concerns it was straightforward after all.

Ascent: 443m

Distance: 11.6km

Time: 3.09

Wildlife: Pink Footed Geese; Hen Harrier (m); Meadow Pipit; Carrion Crow; Jackdaw; Rook; Wood Pigeon; Skylark; Red Grouse; (possible Golden Eagle).

A long bike/hike but well worth it.....Stob an Aonaich Mhor

Hill: Stob an Aoinaich Mhor (Peak of the big crest)

Type: Corbett

Height: 853m

A short Perthshire trip to collect a couple of overdue hills. But help ma boab! We have had really warm weather so for once and along with the forecast I did not fill the car with all my gear, no waterproofs/warm gear. Yip you guessed correctly this morning I woke up to low grey cloud and drizzle.

A lovely early morning drive to the start with the clouds starting to lift and the odd patch of blue sky appeared.

This was planned as a bike hike trip but I already had a concern. I knew that at the start there was a locked vehicle gate which the estate were not likely to open for a cyclist. What would I find? Luckily it did have a small pedestrian side gate which thankfully my bike got through.

From here there followed an 8 mile cycle to get to the start of the walking bit. All gradually uphill so the walking bit was minimised. My other concern was that some previous reports had mentioned encountering cattle on route but although I cycled past 3 feeding stations thankfully no beasties were seen.

As it is 8 miles long the ascent is gradual with only a couple of steep pitches. The early couple of miles had quite a broken surface, lots of big holes and loose stones so constantly winding through the gaps.

When I turned one corner a couple of roe deer appeared, looked at me and just as quickly disappeared behind the lumps.

It was cool but not overly cold the cycling keeping my body temperature up. A glance to my side where I spotted the pointed peak of Schiehallion poking out above the clouds.

Along the way I had a couple of season firsts, a Cuckoo calling (about time, late this year) and the Wheatears which were numerous. 

Also I encountered a large herd of wild goats including many young looking kids but they ran just as fast as the adults when I approached.

This is rough rugged and very isolated terrain. I noticed a sizeable hydro dam which I believe is located at the start of Loch Ericht. I would get much more spectacular loch views from the summit.

This already seemed like a long bike ride and I could see the track continuing quite far away. Looking at the OS map I was only about half way through the cycle. I originally thought it was 6 miles but turned out to be 8 miles. Onwards and upwards, very cool at times.

Finally my hill is the one in the background, some sun as well!!

I had my sights on a rugged lump which I thought might be the target but it turned out that this was Carn Dearg although mine did come into view not long after. According to the map I was cycling though the Talla Bheith Forest but that forest was a long time ago as there was a distinct lack of natural trees, the odd pine plantation dotted around.

I was taken aback to see a car come over a top heading my way. I stopped to let them past and disappointingly no acknowledgement from the two females. Presumably from Corrievarkie Lodge. 

Not the most secure place to lock up the bike but I didn't really expect it to disappear

Soon after I was glad that it was time to park the bike and get those boots working on that hill.

Looks a lot flatter than it was but just keep heading to the high point, then the next etc

Looking up there was no sign of the top but I knew it was not far away, it was going to be a series of elevations. The terrain was heather and peat hags but there were plenty of dry grassy sections to take advantage of.

As such I took a direct line towards the top which was straightforward enough. The peat hags could be easily crossed or avoided so not a hazard.

I was in no rush and enjoyed the slow steady plod. As expected upon reaching a visual high line there would be another one beyond it and then repeat. But as said it was fairly gentle and pleasant ascent. There were hundreds of red deer hoof prints and fresh droppings but sadly no live beasts spotted.

Then I had a nice surprise when I hit upon the summit cairn without realising I was almost there, a very pleasant surprise.

Ben Alder range

Looking back down Loch Ericht Corrour Munros still with some snow

And also a wow moment when I hit the ridge the Ben Alder Munros suddenly appeared. Throw in the very steep view down into Loch Ericht, this was a very airy potentially vertigo feeling moment.

View North towards Dalwhinnie

Wide shot of the Alder Munros and Loch Ericht

Great views all round but the rear side hills were dark forbidding moorland lumps compared to the brighter Alder hills. The dark side were mainly the Dalnaspidal Corbetts.

After taking in the views I took a more varied track taking more advantage of the grassy sections and avoiding the hags.

On descent long view of the dam at Loch Ericht

Wheatear

Glen Lyon hills on the distance

Back on the bike there were sections of fun cycling which is why I love bike/hiking. At times fast eye popping descent trying to avoid the many potholes and not slide on the scree. Plus taking caution to avoid the large tyre damaging sharp edged stones. But I did also stop on a few occasions to take in the views. It is easy to just keep cycling and miss out on them but I was in no rush.

And this tick is also the completion of Section 5 in the SMC Corbetts book Loch Rannoch to Drumochter.

Happy with that, it would have been a long slog up and back on that hard packed surface.

Ascent: 771m

Distance: 28.8km

Time: 3.34

Wildlife: Red Grouse; Pheasant; Buzzard; Great Tit; Meadow Pipit; Wheatear; Skylark; Roe Deer; Woodpecker (h); Cuckoo (h); Feral Goats; Common Frog;