Worth it for the views of Loch Fannich & the nearby Munros.....An Cabar

Hill: An Cabar ( The Antler?)

Type: Sub2k

Height: 559m

A cold wind along with low lying grey clouds was not what I expected as I got ready for this short ramble. However I did have a lovely surprise when I was putting on my boots as an Osprey flew over the nearby River Bran but sadly it did not stop to dive in for a fish and of . 

Spoilt for birdlife early on as a Song Thrush sang beautifully beside the road as I walked to the gate.

From the layby I walked along the road for about 300m before getting to the true start point. This was a locked gate which required a climb which got my heart beating a bit faster, should not have had dessert last night.

The initial section was a slow grind up the twisting estate track flanked with trees on either side. Roughly 150m of ascent but this morning it felt a lot longer and steeper. Still there was plenty of opportunities to pause to listen and spot the singing birds.

Memorial to an estate worker, the summit around the notch to the right

I went left, should have gone right that became my descent track

I was glad to be out onto the open moor where it was as expected, rough and barren. The track ended shortly after and this is where I made my error, not for the 1^st time in my walking career. From reports there was an ATV track to follow. I could see an outline ATV track in the gloop and what looked like a track going up and alongside the lower flanks of Carn Daraich. I was heading for the Loch na Curra and this track was the right direction.

Of course it did not take long for the track to disappear in very wet and boggy ground. It was slow going as I headed to what I thought was a track which turned out to be a water course, indeed more like a burn. A brief head conference with myself and I just decided to follow it. In the middle of a wet moor my only companion was a curlew with its eerie haunting call echoing across the moor, quite appropriate.

Stunning fishing backdrop some of the Fannichs behind

The fishing hut was now in sight but just before I reached it I spotted the correct track off to my right. At least I knew where it was and would use it for my descent.

The loch is presumably private, for use by the estate, but it did look like it would be a nice fishing spot on a warmer day.

I walked around it surviving a couple of long lunges across knee deep outflows before heading up the hill.

Under other circumstances it would have been short heather and short dry grasses but under these conditions everything was soft, squelchy and slippy.

This was not the most direct route to the summit but I was heading for the higher plateau where the going should be flatter and better.

Whilst it was flatter there were more peat hags to dodge around than I have encountered for some time. And some of these were deep trenches which meant negotiating around not going though.

I initially headed for pt549 which I optimistically told myself it was the top even though I knew it was not, just playing mind games. Sprung at least half a dozen red grouse on these slopes.

The strong wind shows on the loch

At pt549 the views had opened up and were spectacular looking down onto Loch Fannich and across to the Fannich Munros. The wind had also risen as the temperatures had fallen, really quite chilly so no hanging about.

View from Pt549 to the summit of An Cabar

From here I could see the trig of An Cabar but it looked further away than I liked. A minor up and down before I hit a 30m drop which again looked further. Also the bottom was lined with deep hag trenches so it was a slower descent on steep snow patched wet grassy slopes.

Impressive drop

Then up to the trig. The clouds had lifted to give excellent all round views. The eye was caught by the precipitous slopes of the Gharb Coire Mor on the flanks of the Munro of An Coileachan.

The stunning views down the loch took in the Torridon and Fannich peaks amongst many others.

Too cold and windy to hang about. I had planned to go a more direct cross country on the descent but as the moor was sodden I just retracked my route back to the boathouse.

Coming off the higher slopes I spotted 3 people with at least one dog on the crest of a hill I was heading for. Surprised to see other walkers on this rarely used route. Oddly I did not see them again. They had been coming my way but clearly changed their path. I wondered if they were stalkers. I had seen plenty of deer droppings, some of it very fresh but did not see any of the beasts themselves.

Form the loch I followed the track I should have taken ascending. It took a winding route which was fine. Very wet and boggy but still clearly a track. Lots of pools where the common frogs were active.

Male Chaffinch

An uneventful descent until just before I reached the gate a red squirrel crossed the track and just as quickly clambered up and disappeared in the trees. That's the first one I have seen for a long time.

A nice finish to an enjoyable short ramble.

Ascent: 509m

Distance: 9.9km

Time: 3.41

Wildlife: Red Squirrel; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Curlew; Osprey; Chiffchaff; Chaffinch; Song Thrush; Wood Pigeon; Goldcrest; Coal Tit; Red Grouse; Common Frog;

Watch out for the drop.....Carnan Cruithneachd

Hill: Carnan Cruithneachd (Hill of the Picts)

Type: Fiona

Height: 729m

The forecast indicated that today was to be the only fully dry day of our weeks break. So a pretty please to the good lady and I was given permission to ramble. So I headed for this nearby Fiona which I thought would be a quickie. An early start but as it turned out the ramble took an hour longer than I envisaged.

A beautiful morning when I parked up at the Mountain Rescue centre. That was an error as I could have gone a bit further and parked at the outdoor centre which would have saved me half an hour of road tramping.

An encouraging start when I heard the first of many cuckoos as I laced my boots, a smile brought to my face. I know some see them as parasites due to laying eggs in other birds nests but I find them remarkable and as said who doesn’t like the call of the male cuckoo. As an aside would you recognise the females call?

Before long I spotted the first of many small red deer herds on the flanks of the Corbett Sgurr an Airgid.

There were more people on the walk in than I expected. I knew of the 2 nearby Munros and the long distance route to Glen Affric. But what I didn't realise was that my walk in was also an option for Cape Wrath Way walkers. I spoke to a few of them en route, another reason for taking longer and surprisingly all bar one English guy were foreigners.

The initial stages had the bulky Munro of A’ Ghias-bheinn directly in my vision. At first I thought this was my target but soon realised my error and mine was still a long way away.

Target in the distance

The track split and I almost made the rookie error of not concentrating taking in the surroundings and following the people in front who were Munro baggers.

But I remembered I had to take the left fork which led to woods and across a well constructed bridge before hitting another tree plantation. A heavy shower ended the fully dry day prediction but thankfully it only lasted a few minutes. Although I did see many showers passing by on either side. When I returned the good lady commented that it must have been horrendous in that hail storm, another break as it did not hit me.

Another split in the trail but the left one was my possible descent route, at this stage I had not fully decided.

I went up to the side of the heather on the right

So up the right hand track until clear of the woods where a single narrow track steeply wound its way up onto the moor in short time. Heavy breathing time. I caught up with more walkers who were on yet another option, this is also the track to the Falls of Glomach.

The SMC book’s route was to follow this track to the high point. But this looked a long way away and I knew that the summit was almost a 90deg turn straight up.

Looked ok from here

So one of those last minute decisions was made and I went straight up. The initial slopes were steep but easy going on the good short grassy sections between the heather. But then the going got much tougher. 60deg slopes meant I was facing right into it and for about 30 metres I was on my knees at times, using the heather to hand pull me up.

Gradient eased and as I looked back down it was certainly steeper than it looked from below. Easier going but of course 3 false ridge tops before I got to my high point and had a view of the hill.

Thankfully I can see it

Still a lot of moor to cross to get there

It was probably about 2 kilometres away but it looked further across the undulating peat hagged moor. The going was fairly straightforward but it was very undulating, quite a few exhales as I crested one height to drop quite a bit before repeating a few times.

Got to the base and although it is craggy there were plenty of grassy rakes to evade them. As said plenty of red deer around and 3 let me get really close to them before moving off.

Summit in view

Puffing a bit I wound my way up to the high point. When I reached the top I got a fright as I glanced down to my left and realised it was a precipitous drop all the way all the way down to the River Elchaig. Wow a real vertigo moment, I had not expected that and glad I had arrived with full visibility and not in cloud, one step too far! Later I was speaking to an ex Mountain Rescue guy who said there had been fatalities from there.

The views were really superb in all directions so it was time for a seat and enjoy my mini pork pies and take it all in. These moments are what the slog is all about, well worth it.

Heading for the trees to the right

Finally time to descend and I opted for the circular descent as I could see the ATV track coming out of the woods. Tramped over the moorland to the track which was rough in places but better than the hags.

Relief no fence to climb

From the ascent I knew the plantation was enclosed by a deer fence so my only concern was if there was a locked gate but it was wide open. In the forest the track was extremely steep covered in stones and rocks so sliding as it was like walking on marbles so it was slow progress.

Finally back on the out route which somehow felt longer. Although I have heard quite a few Cuckoos this year I have not yet snapped one. At a clearing one was calling loudly. On the slopes there were only five small trees and patience paid off when I spotted it. Got my camera out and as I woke it up I heard a bleep, the battery had died.

So apart from the no cuckoo snap it was a good ramble. The gradients tested my fitness but I passed although I know it was at my pace, more comfortable with that now than trying to keep up with faster walkers, old age does not come without some drawbacks.

Back at the car more yacking with other walkers. I think chatting too often was my other half hour lost lol.

Ascent: 820m

Distance: 16.9km

Time: 5.23

Wildlife: Red Deer; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Cuckoo; Chaffinch; Coal Tit; Mistle Thrush; Wild Goats;

The hill on the middle of the moor with fantastic views.....Stob na Cruaiche

Hill: Stob na Cruaiche (Stub of the heap) (A’Chruach) (The heap)

Type: Fiona

Height: 739m

After some internal debate I decided to make this a linear bike/hike rather than a ridge circular. The main factor was that the weather was due to worsen, heavy rain, just after lunchtime and I had minimal wet gear with me.

Parked up at Rannoch Station with more blue sky above than expected. My 1^st issue was getting the bike through the gate at the railway. More than wide enough for a walker but very tight for a heavy MTB. Eventually I won the battle but spoiled the start.

The cycle was only 2 miles but even this involved a couple of wrong turns before I reached the timber lorries turning spot.

Bike was tied to a tree in clear view of anyone coming along the track but little other option. Then walked back past the turning circle where I found the ATV track.

It was a steep wee start but for a kilometre or so it is a wet boggy quagmire with much sideways jumping to stay on some dry bits. It has been reinforced in the past with wood slats and planking but much of that has been broken/eroded.

However it did not take long to break the treeline and get out onto the moor and onto a ‘slightly better’ ATV track, note the wording.

I was aware that the ATV had a deviation on my right and that this should not be missed or it was a long slog through pathless peat bogs.

A couple of times I thought I had spotted it but they soon turned back to the main track just avoiding more bog.

Finally another faint track went right which I followed and this time it was the real deal. The gradient was now super good, a long slow ascent. Of course the track was lost and then re-found but overall it was good going, soft underfoot, a nice change.

I had my eye on a single point that looked like a summit trig. Motivation works differently for everybody but the way my mind works I was happy to focus on this as the summit even though I knew it certainly wasn’t. But it worked until I reached it, which of course was not a trig but a slim pointed rock, and then had to refocus on another target.

The ATV track largely evaded the peat hags which was a good thing as the few encountered were deep trenches.

Plus this route which mainly headed west gave great views ahead of the remote water potted landscape of Rannoch moor along with the spectacular Black Mount and Glencoe Munros, more wow moments.

The final section twisted and turned where I was now on a steeper gradient to the summit but all in all still great going.

Before long the trig was reached. Yet another occasion where a relatively infrequently walked hill provides fantastic views due to its stand alone position.

The viewpoint has to cover at least 30 Munros as well as everything else.

Orchy/Glencoe/Nevis/Corrour/Alder

Missed by many a bagger but that is their loss, this stand alone peak is a top notch viewing point.

A simple return by the same route. The terrain was too rough for me to consider an alternative tramp. I still enjoyed great views over Rannoch Moor.

Getting lower down the Lochs of Rannoch, Eigheach & Laidon came into view shimmering in the harsh light. The weather was changing as I watched clouds on my left swiftly running past depositing rain/sleet but not on me today.

Even the muddy track in the woods seemed more straightforward than the ascent.

Bike still attached to the tree so all that was left was the short cycle and another battle with the kissing gate. During the struggle I thought that I was going to have to remove the front wheel at one point to get it through, the joys.

Because of the hills remoteness I was very surprised by the lack of birdlife in both the forest and on the moor. Even the Pipits and Skylark seen were less than the fingers on one hand. Plover & Grouse one spot each. Zero raptors or corvids, when was the last time I did not see a Raven on a remote moor, not often.

The sun had come back out with warmth so wandered to the station tearoom to find that they would not serve me if I wanted to sit outdoors, I would have to use the take away facilities, tourism in Scotland!!

Ascent: 570m

Distance: 14.5km

Time: 3.32

Wildlife: Coal Tit; Great Tit; Red Grouse; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Golden Plover;

Snow, heat & views.....Beinn Mheadhoin (Strathconon)

Hill: Beinn Mheadhoin (Middle Mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 613m

It was an interesting drive along a very narrow remote single track to get to the start of the walk. Met a couple of vehicles but thankfully no reversing required. The biggest surprise was about 10 miles in when I came across a sign ‘School’. In the middle of nowhere there was still an active primary school, blimey, long may it continue.

There was already a car in the small grassy parking area at Inverchoran. I parked carefully so that I could get out should other cars come along. There are 2 Fionas and a Corbett from this spot as well as cycling or just walking into the glens.

I had the option of this Fiona or its neighbour Meall na Faochaig and the final decision was the amount of snow. From here Mheadhoin looked the clearer so that was my choice.

The forecast was for a warm day but it certainly did not feel that when I started but I was clad lighter than normal.

View from the parking area at Inverchoran

I wandered down to the estate buildings where a sign indicated walkers to go left across a bridge to the cottage and cross the ford here. So being a good boy I did as told but the ford was wider and running deeper than expected. I was wearing my gaiters so got across without water going over my boots, a couple of handy stones just under the water but they had a good grip, not slimy.

An estate track wound its way up the hill and ahead of me I spotted an ATV heading up it. It was steep and I was puffing a lot more than expected, not until later would I learn I had yet another infection, it had been a bad run.

Having one of my breathers I spotted a couple of deer well camouflaged against the chocolate brown heather and the white snow patches. As I did so I looked back and noted that there were a couple more vehicles in the parking area and a party of 6 along with two dogs were walking down to the estate buildings. I didn’t see them again so I presume they were heading for the Corbett Bac an Eich.

The ATV track rose around the slopes of Creagan a’ Chaorainn and although it was loose and stony it could have made a good bike/hike.

Almost the end of the track for me. The Munro of Carn nam Gobhar beyond

I came to another ford and peaking out beyond it was the Munro Carn nam Gobhar thankfully not my destination.

Crossed the ford which was in the Am Fuar-alltan and soon after I spotted a faint ATV track going through the very boggy ground. What I had missed until found it on the descent was a good stalkers track which ran closer to the burn than my heading. One lives and learns.

Looks benign but all these snow patches held deep holes

So having missed the track I slipped and slid my way up the hill. There were many snow patches that I could not avoid crossing and stepping on many of them I went in over the knees. Thus it was slower and tougher going than this would normally be.

Spot the Golden Plover

Additionally there were many small crags which would also be straightforward to negotiate but the small but many deep snow pockets had to be managed making them a bit more awkward. A golden plover sounded its annoyance at being disturbed, its nest was no doubt close by but it did stay put long enough to let me get a snap.

No hardship to pause and take in the views as I climbed. The Corbett of Bac an Eich

As I got higher the snow on the more open ground was easier to get round. I was in no rush as the views were spectacular. On the summit area next to no snow.

The summit was reached and the view just appeared, a wow moment. Strathfarrer Munros

A wider shot

I spotted the high point which was situated on top of a small crag. When my head was above the crag line it was a genuine ‘wow’ moment as directly ahead was the snow covered Strathfarrer Munros. It was a memorable view. The 360deg view was a similar landscape of mostly white covered winter hills. Once again it proves that it does not have to be the biggest hill to get the best view.

As I took in the view I spotted a small bird bouncing my way. I thought it was going to land on the rocks beside me until it got within 6 feet or so when it took fright and turned away. Absolutely delighted as it was a female snow bunting, absolute yonks since I seen one. I briefly spotted a male and had a few more brief female sightings. They normally travel in small groups of 5-10. It was not just the views that made my day this was special.

Long view west to the Munros of Achnashellach

Unusually for me I spent a long time taking in and fully enjoying the views until the cold sent me on my return journey.

On the descent it was much warmer, so much so that I was unzipping both jacket and trouser vents to let some cooling air in.

Stunning descent with bags of views, I did not notice the lochan on the way up

About a third of the way off the hill I was avoiding a big snow patch when I discovered the stalkers track. For some reason it was mostly snow free so of course I followed it. There were a few times that I looked over to see my deep snow trail unbelievable that this good track was so close and that I had not spotted it.

There was one snow patch that I couldn’t avoid and had a heel slip. With an open jacket my slide introduced a lot of snow into my trousers and pants, unpleasant very wet and cold!!

I now had to cross the ford which this time was more awkward than on the ascent. That rise in temperature was enough to increase the snow melt and as such raising the water level.

Walking back down the track I had good views of Meall na Faochaig. From here it looked like there was more snow patches on its pathless slopes than I had encountered. I had considered doing the double but it would have been more of a grind than I was fit for today. I will leave it for another day. When it should be a nice outing, midgies excepted.

I arrived back at the estate houses to find that the snow melt water had risen considerably at the ford, no doubt I was going to get wet feet if I crossed. It was not just deeper but running much faster.

Well aa they were unlikely to see me again I ignored the water challenge and just walked past the estate houses without looking at their windows and not challenged by the inhabitants.

It was an enjoyable ramble but I knew that this was far from my normal levels of fitness which did reduce my enjoyment.

But what a panorama and a snow bunting, I will appreciate the positives.

Ascent: 584m

Distance: 9.6km

Time: 4.09

Wildlife: Raven; Snow Bunting; Red Deer; Meadow Pipit; Golden Plover; Peacock butterfly; Tortoiseshell butterfly;