Speyside Way.....Ballindalloch - Grantown on Spey

Walk: Speyside Way

Route: Ballindalloch – Grantown on Spey

By the standards of many other long distance walk sections this is relatively straightforward but for the Speyside Way this would be described as the Queens stage. That is a cycling term for the hardest or most difficult section. For sure it is the longest section if you exclude the optional Tomintoul loop and it has the most ascent of any section so it deserves its description. The ascent is undulating with several short steep sections rather than a full on climb.

Using public transport was not really an option so the good lady drove me to the start at Ballindalloch. A couple of overnighting camper vans were in the small parking area, the smell of bacon wafting around. Enticing but it was not for us and anyway I had eaten back at the hotel.

The last time I had been at this spot was when I cycled the previous stage and would have turned for the return cycle. It was clear from the route description that cycling much of this section was not an option and indeed that was the case.

Now a private house

An early morning stroll for just over a mile along the old railway line was amazing for the variety of singing birds. A woodpecker was hammering away, from the noises clearly changing trees but I could not spot it. Yet again Jays were calling another regular feature of my Moray rambles. The usual suspects were amongst the singing mixture but also included a male Blackcap. A flash of movement caught my eye flashing through the trees. Obviously a raptor it was a stunning chestnut brown. Sadly I did not see any other distinguishing marks. It was probably a buzzard but it looked smaller and flew faster than expected but not aware of any other raptor than could be so brown. The Spey was in sight alongside this section but despite the name of the walk I would not see it too often.

Turning left and taking a route towards the main road I was now in the first of the many fenced in sections that have been installed to keep walkers away from livestock, mainly cattle, more on this later. I met a couple of foreign walkers who were on a self sustained trip roughly based on the Moray trail. As it turned out they were the only walkers I met until the Abernethy forest near Grantown.

Buzzard approaching

Out onto fields and scrub, it was a potentially muddy section with walk boards to assist. Pheasants ran around and a pair of buzzards were on the hunt, I presume a pheasant is too big for them, maybe not as from the pheasants reactions they were taking no chances.

Crossed the A95 where there was a faint trail to follow, some light trees shielded me from the road traffic.

The track left the road heading up to the Garvault plantation. As I climbed I spotted a brown hare lopping around, it saw me and headed to some long reeds where it hunkered down. 

Garvault plantation

Not really sure why it is this weird design

I also encountered my 1^st set of chain gates. Unique to me and I didn’t fully understand the benefit of them. As a walker they were awkward to get through. Easily 30+ of them.

Nice to fet a break in the trees for a view

Up through the trees until I came to an old but very wide forest track. A pleasant saunter until I met the indicator which sent me steeply back down.

Brief view of the Cromdale hills

Across some scrubland where it was nice to have views of the Cromdale hills before heading back up and into another plantation, the Woods of Knockfrink. There is a lot of forest plantation walking on this rambler, just me and the trees so be warned. I spotted another raptor flying through the trees, much narrower wings so either a Sparrowhawk or better still a Goshawk. Once again just a quick sighting and far enough away in the trees to recognise any features other than shape.

Heading to farmland for a few miles

I left these trees to head through Meiklepark Wood before heading down to Mains of Dalvey Farm. Again hemmed in by fencing and chain gates it was bizarre. Short sections would then open up to a section of open field to cross so if any livestock was around you were still walking through them.

A lot of the fencing was derelict and unmaintained by the farmer and at one point two only days old lambs were inside. Two young to move out of my way. The ewe was getting distressed so I had to do a loop across the field agitating other ewes and lambs but not as close walking as the 1^st pair.

The walking was really awkward in the narrow confines and I was keeping my eye on a herd of cows and youngsters who were well aware of my presence but far enough away to not be agitated. Of course at the end of their field I had to leave the fence safety and go through their field for a short section.

The next narrow section now had me on full alert as there were fresh coo pats in the metre wide walkway, the joys.

At the next turn I headed downhill where another field of cows and calves had spotted me. I had to turn and walk alongside the fence, extremely flimsy I thought and the mothers were starting to circle and staring at me. I was edgy as I contoured very close to them, even more so when I saw that the fence had been flattened so not even that protection.

There only looks a few of them the rest are in ambush mode

Eyes down I got past them and turned the zig zag where I saw the gates I had to go through was right beside a feeding station and more cows and calves were staring at me. The calves looked days old as well and 3 of them were right at the gate. They were on the other side but the mothers were right alongside the fence and were now getting agitated at seeing me, mooing loudly the rest joining in. the farmer knew what he was doing when he sited that feeding station, a few swear words were uttered in his direction.

No way was I risking that so I decided to climb the lower fence into a ploughed field. A double barbed wire fence, for walkers not the crops!! A few tags to the trousers and more swearing. Walked across his field hoping his bloody crop fails.

Ideal breeding ground!!

Back into yet another tree section, Tom an Uird Wood. I was getting a bit fed up of trees but when I exited these trees it was to find the usual end of the world landscape scene of deforestation. At least I could see Cromdale ahead and I also saw the Spey once again. There was a sign that I should have snapped warning the lumber drivers to take care as this was a Capercaillie breeding are, the irony!

Final hemmed in section still had to be wary

Back onto the old railway line all the way to Cromdale, grassy, softer on the feet nice but hemmed in again. More open sections with cattle around so still keeping a look out.

Finally arrived at Cromdale which is an interesting location where a battle with Cromwell's forces effectively ended the Jacobite rebellion albeit the Scots claimed victory out of defeat, not for the last time. The battle is also famous for being the first reported instance of hand thrown explosive devices being used in combat.

Yes there is a River Spey plus Cromdale Kirk

Crossed the Spey to find a sign indicating 2.5 miles to Grantown via the forest route or 4 miles via the riverside. Guess what I opted for? After about 10 minutes walking I came across another sign Grantown 2.5 miles, not happy.

So the final forest walk of the section. I have to say that the 2.5 mile ramble through the Anagach wood was just a few trees too many. I was overheated as I had dressed for the forecast of heavy spring showers with possible hail and none appeared. Now it was just a warming sun.

Although I had seen a lot of wildlife I had hoped to see the crested Tit on this section but not to be.

My legs were feeling it so I was relieved when I reached Grantown.

Overall it was a good ramble with the exception of the near cattle encounters. It was my last section of the Speyside Way which were spread over a few years so there was the added satisfaction of completing another of Scotland’s long distance routes.

Ascent: 566m

Distance: 24..17km

Time: 5.59

Wildlife: Brown Hare; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Blackcap; Chaffinch; Robin; Blackbird; Woodpecker; Wren; Pheasant; Buzzard; Goldeneye; Mallard; Peewit; Wood Pigeon; Meadow Pipit; Jay; Willow Warbler; Dipper; Treecreeper,

Biking the Speyside Way.....Craigellachie - Ballindalloch

Speyside Way: Craigellachie – Ballindalloch

A few days ago this option looked like the perfect cycling day but I was woken by a heavy shower battering the windows. Decision time, I had completed all the walks that I had planned, indeed more than I had planned, but I did not want a wasted day.

Sadly showers for most of the day was the forecast on the BBC report. Along with temperatures dropping and turning much colder. As always on a solo trip throw everything into the car so I had all my wet weather gear thus it was a goer.

I parked slightly away from the formal start as I wanted to visit the Telford Bridge on my return.

As said on my last report navigating whilst cycling is an issue so I hummed and hawed about heading down to a wooded car park, no Speyside Way signage but this looked an obvious spot. Fortunately I did and I was correct.

I knew that this entire section would be relatively flat and would not need my dubious navigating skills as it is almost a straight line following the river. Wow, actually following the river was a bit of a novelty. So no deviations unless I opted for one of the several offered on route. But none of these deviations were planned for me today, with the forecast I wanted the straight out and back route.

From the start this was a beautiful eye catching bike ride. At this time of year the trees were vibrant bursts of colour but so was the track. I was constantly riding on a bed of fallen leaves and pine needles, all shades, quite stunning.

Plus for a large part of the cycle I actually had the River Spey in sight, even at eye level, miracles will never cease.

As I skirted Aberlour the 1^st of three heavy showers dropped a deluge on me but dubious balancing skills I got my hood up and continued on my way.

As someone who was occasionally partial to a malt it was fantastic to be cycling past so many distilleries right beside the track, the aroma frequently made me think about stopping a buying a bottle.

Dailuaine, I liked the simplicity but would have liked a wee bit of info, guess its a private remembrance.

I always stop and take a look at War Memorials when I pass them but this oh so simple one was interesting. No names, why and how I don't know but it was effective.

Apparently free camping here for Speyside Way walkers. Multi bird feeders so presumably a private house.

Another highlight of this section is that for the most part you are cycling along the old railway track. Some are abandoned stations with a some of the structure left, buildings and platforms, but others have been converted into homes.

Not only are there plenty of tourist snap opportunities it wouldn't be the River Spey without the Salmon fishing huts. Not sure how many fishing beats this section is divided into but there were a lot of huts around but a lack of anglers.

Today’s daft question is how fast does a male pheasant run? Well after surprising 3 different males at different times today they all took off down the track running in front of me for about 100 yards. We maintained the same distance on each occasion and the speed was just over 10mph. I had a laugh shouting get out of the way your slowing me down. The females were more sensible, when spooked they immediately took off and flew into the trees, energy saved. It made me reflect on how many odd wildlife situations I have encountered over the years, I have been fortunate.

Another aspect of this stretch was just how many bridges/tunnels I went under/over/through there were so many. Some were very narrow and one memory was of a wooded narrow bridge just after Aberlour. It had a sign saying for safety a maximum 5 people at a time. Too narrow to cycle so I walked across, just me and the heavy Ebike and was aware of the wood creaking under me.

The section finished at another ex-station, Ballindalloch but for some reason the small parking area was sign posted as Cragganmore!

At the end of this section I took some time to reflect on a super bike ride, it would have been even better on a dry day but would have taken much longer as I would have stopped so often to take photos.

Highly recommended as a bike or walk at this time of the year.

Magnificent iron cast bridge with faux pas turrets at each end. No longer in use for road traffic.

Simply returned the same way. As I was passing Aberlour my senses were overwhelmed with a huge scent of sweetness. What was it I thought then I spotted the sign for the Walkers shortbread factory. It made a change from the aroma of the distilleries.

 So same route apart from the short extension to visit the magnificent Telford Bridge.

Back at the car cleaning the mud and debris off the bike before getting it on the bike rack was a big task in itself. It takes longer than cleaning walking boots but it did not spoil the day, it was a memorable bike ride.

Ascent: 68m

Distance: 40.9km

Time: 3.11

Wildlife: Pheasant; Jay; Goosander; Wood Pigeon; Jackdaw; Rook; Chaffinch; Great Tit; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Robin; Blackbird; Mallard

Biking the Speyside Way.....Fochabers - Craigellachie

Walk/Bike: Speyside Way Fochabers – Craigellachie circuit

The logistics of transport from the beginning at Fochabers and getting back again from my base made this unpractical to do as a ramble but it could certainly be done by bike, so that was my choice.

It was a colder morning than the previous days when I arrived at my starting point at the square in Fochabers. The sky was bright enough with high level clouds but I was under a bit of time pressure as a south to north weather front was promising heavy rain by afternoon. Indeed the good lady sent me a message that it was already heavy rain in Barassie. Hence my early start.

I love biking but it has one big failure that I need to address as it impacted me several times recently. That is I do not have a phone mount on my handlebars so if unsure I have to stop, get the phone out of my pocket, reconfigure and get on with it. But this is bloody annoying and getting from the town square to the proper waymark start was one of those. Up and down streets, alongside dog walkers, no signs to be seen until there was one after the school, yahoo.

I confess that I had not carried out the best preparation. I had looked at the route and noted one possible route blocker for the bike. I had only glanced at the elevation, a glance was not nearly enough as it turned out. And of course the unknown quantity of gates. They get mentioned but would I get past with a bike, that was a big concern? It did not help that my Cicerone guide details it as a south to north trip so I lost a bit of interest reading it. PS: my copy is also well out of date as I found out en route.

Attractive rural landscape outside Fochabers

From my research I knew that it would be hard going at times but it turned out to be a bigger adventure than expected.

Once out of Fochabers I expected a fairly gentle quiet stretch of road that turned out to be a mini mountain stage of the Tour de France. Up and down from the start to Ordiequish Hill and then a vertical descent from the Earth Pillars car park, a hair pin bend and back up an even steeper ascent praying a car did not materialise in front of me.

Through a pleasant forest section then another steep twisting fast descent where I did meet traffic. An old dear in her old Suzuki, in the middle of a narrow road, not expecting me, eyes agog as I flashed passed almost taking her wing mirror off. Of course right on her tail was another Suzuki, this time an old boy whose passenger I briefly noticed had her hand over her mouth, that gave them something to talk about over their scones and as for me it certainly got my heart rate up.

Workers on right of bridge and another on for getting equipment across the left and the boat

Arrived at Boat o' Brig and spent a few minutes resting and watching the workers on the bridge over the Spey. This would be a cold job at this time of the year.  

The next bit was my main concern, a set of steps which were narrow and full of fallen leaves, slippery as hell. My heavy MTB does not like being pushed and I shoved my glasses in to my pocket as they had steamed up. Got the bike after a lot of huffing and puffing. No sign left or right? 

Last sight of the Spey for a while before turning back and heading inland

Well this is the Speyside Way and the right followed the river, wrong! Thankfully not too far down I did another phone check and turned back. 

The start of the gloopy section alongside the farm

This and the following section to Bridgeton Farm was a muddy challenging bike ride but I did not fall off into the gloop, bonus point achieved.

Glad to get on a non muddy track I cycled gaily enjoying the view until I spotted a road ahead which shouldn’t have been there.

Of course I had rode passed the turn off but in my defence there was no signage until after the turn off.

I arrived at the shooting range where the red warning lights were flashing away. The SW sign was posted beside one of the bright lights so I missed the cut off before retreating without some hillbilly getting his pot-shot in.

Steam coming out of the Rothes distillery

Start of the worst biking section

Another challenging section with so much debris hiding the tree roots and the large rocks that regularly kicked the bike off course. If I had came off there was a nasty drop on my right and I got very close to it at times. On the final ascent both tyres spun out and I had to jump off and push but luckily I was almost at the top joining part of the Ben Aigan track system.

I had a wee get my breath back break. I was pleased as I thought that I had done most of the climbing but boy was I wrong.

The high point, still looking good over the Moray Firth

The next section dropped at first then rose and rose. I could see the Spey way below me thinking this is not right the route I should be alongside it. No doubt the farming and sporting estate interests have blocked it.

I was about to descend so went to put on my glasses and discovered that they were not in my pocket I had obviously not zipped it fully enough. Very annoyed as they were not cheap. Frustrated I decided that I would change my planned return route and backtrack via this route.

Even now I thought it was downhill all the way to Craigellachie but far from it. More up and down and on one fast downhill I turned a corner to meet a pair of old codgers on my right side. I was doing around 25mph and they were doing about 5mph so I had to react quickly and just managed to avoid them.

Long view of the Telford Bridge

From here the section down to Craigellachie was longer than I thought so when I reached my finish point I stopped for refreshment and thinking time. 

My finish point the Fiddichside Inn

I was annoyed at losing the glasses but the effort of returning over that high ground and the dangers of descending the leafy muddy sections made my mind up. Cheer up, positive thoughts only, need to phone the good lady and tell her my Xmas pressie has been decided!!

I took the main road up to Rothes, stopping to view the old bridge.

A few close passes to irritate me, mainly white van men. Leaving Rothes I took the side road that would run alongside the Spey and eventually get me back to Fochabers. It was much quicker on the tarmac and although it was up and down a lot less so than had I backtracked.

I had been thinking about where I could have lost my glasses. I looked over and saw the Spey bridge where the steps were, one possible location as I had to manhandle the bike up them. About half a mile away so I detoured over to it. Not overly confident I walked up the steps and there they were, half buried, lying in the leaves, wow, what a break.

As I was here I went back via my outward route, climbing up to the summit of Tor Hill before the gradient eased. A few miles later it was down and up hells glen and then it was time for a good downhill run back to the start.

Pine needles aplenty

So that was quite a trip and as said more demanding than expected, my legs were tired at the finish. One I will remember for some time. It was still dry but maybe the rain would have been welcomed to wash down the bike before getting it on the carrier.

Ascent: 761m

Distance: 40.9km

Time: 2.59

Wildlife: Grey Heron; Pheasant; Redwing; Dunnock; Blackbird;

Just what I needed as a recovery ramble.....Beinn na Feusaige

Hill: Beinn na Feusaige (Mountain of the beard)

Type: Fiona

Height: 625m

Yesterday had been one of my worst physical days on a hill with a general feeling of fatigue and weakness so much so that I really struggled complete the route but I did and todays another day. I had been bitten on the neck a few days ago and had not felt right since but other people have said that there is a lot of Covid about so who knows.

No alarm set so a slightly longer lie. Stiff feeling stiff legged and a bit under the weather but I did not want to laze about so Plan A aborted and Plan B enacted.

Beinn na Feusaige on left with Carn Beag on right

When I was out for a cycle the other night I noticed an estate track going a good way up towards a ridge where there was a Fiona that I wanted to bag. Looking at the map and I could utilise the track for 2/3rds of the ramble then a tough but short moorland section. Surely I could make that? If not the summit at least I could use the track to the lochan for a workout. You can combine this hill with Carn Breac but the ground between is not the nicest so not for me today.

At the gate there was a sign to contact the estate as deer stalking was in progress but this was a Sunday so no point.

As I shuffled up the track I was hawking up a lot of phlegm, a clear sign all was not well with my body. Thankfully that was short lived and I felt better.

Decent views after the climb

It was a nondescript track until I reached the high point where the views opened out over the Torridon Hills. Plenty of high and low cloud/mist giving an atmospheric feeling to the hike.

Scotch Argus

There was a strange quietness as I walked along the high track, the atmospheric conditions had also brought the sound of silence. No birds singing for the last few kilometres, no deer, no sheep and not even the obligatory raven so far. The only sound apart from my feet crunching on the stone track was the buzzing of bees on the very beautiful, but sporadic, patches of purple heather.

Headed for high point on the the right to get on the plateau quickly

Found the turn off to the lochan but before I went too far up it it I spotted a faint deer track heading onto the peat hagged moor. My signal to get off the track onto the moor so lets go for it. Of course the track only lasted for a short time but it was enough to avoid the worse of the eroded hags and the sphagnum patches.

Lochan Sgeireach

I have rambled over a lot worse terrain, the hags were straight forward to avoid and as I rose I had good views down to the lochan where the ripples of rising fish made me wish I had brought a travel rod. It took no time to gain the plateau. 

A line of Torridon giants

Looking across to my left in the distance I could see a small herd of deer on Carn Beag. Also on my hill there were lots of hoof prints in the peat as well as droppings fresh enough to have flies on them, so they were around. A little further on there was a distinct aroma of musk. They must be close but I was slightly downwind so they might not be aware of me. No such luck. I spotted one head looking at me, then other two before off they scarpered, over the ridge. But having seen enough deer I knew the next step in this process. Sure enough a head appeared peeking over the ridge then more heads and bodies appeared. They had a good stare at me before they scarpered for good.

View from the top

I was close to the top and wandered up to the high point. This could be a superb viewpoint but sadly the low clouds prevented views of Moruisg and the nearby Monar hills. Nor of the more distant Strathfarrer, Affric and Kintail hills. Still you take what you can get and it was good enough. 

It was so humid that I was sweating buckets which alerted all the beasties. Human warmth and sweat a la carte to them so I didn't hang about for too long.

Looking back Loch Maree

I love clouds sweeping through fast, hate them when they linger

Clouds passed through and I can see my track

Simply backtracked taking in the clear views over the nearby Torridon Hills. Most summits coming and going with cloud apart from Slioch whose top seemed to stay under cloud for the whole trip. But even from afar they looked impressively huge beasts.

Meall a' Chaorainn, I remember a lot of deer and peat hags up there

Back on the track the views descending were of rugged moorland with the Achnasheen Fiona of Meall a’ Chaorainn breaking the flatness.

The solitary cottage with the Strathfarrer Munros way behind

Then on the final descent the Strathfarrer Corbetts were showing well and down below me a solitary cottage. I thought it was abandoned until I noticed smoke from a chimney, must be a cool cottage inside.

Thankfully the midgies had disappeared from the parking area. Physically I felt better so hopefully the shorter ramble did just trick.

Ascent: 582m

Distance: 13.4km

Time: 3.49

Wildlife: Buzzard; Red deer (hinds); Meadow Pipit; Scotch Argus

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This ramble was literally a last minute decision so I had not done any research on the hill prior to the walk. It was not until after the event that I read that there was a 2^nd World War crash site near the summit. Had I been aware I would have investigated the area. My second crash site in two days.

Notes were taken from the Blog ‘Old Mans thoughts and tales’. Heavy Whaller MBE.

USAAF Martin B-26C Marauder 41-34707 was on a transit flight from the USA via Meeks Field (Keflavík, Iceland) to Prestwick in Scotland. This was a recognised aircraft ferry route, which should have taken the Marauder over Stornoway in the Western Isles. However, for some reason, the aircraft was flying too far East of the prescribed course, and therefore over high ground on the Scottish mainland.

As the Marauder continued on its course through mist and rain, it struck the side of Beinn na Feusaige (625m / 2,051ft) in Glen Carron, near Achnasheen [map] on the NW mainland of Scotland.

Sadly all the airmen died in this accident. The crashed aircraft was destroyed by an ensuing fire.

• 1st Lt Merritt E Young (26) (O-662715), Pilot, USAAF.
  (Buried, Payne, Paulding County, Ohio, USA.)

• 2nd Lt Robert A Anderson (O-729949), Bomb Aimer, USAAF.
  (Buried, Madingley Cemetery, Cambridge, UK.)

• Staff Sgt Vincenzo (Vincent) Bravo (24) (11021367), Flt Engr., USAAF.
  (Buried, Medfield, Massachusetts, USA.)

• Staff Sgt Marshall R Miller (38111816), Radio Op., USAAF.
  (Buried, Oakwood Cemetery, Austin, Texas, USA.)

• Master Sgt Lewis M Cross (14069227), Gnr., USAAF.
  (Buried, Madingley Cemetery, Cambridge, UK.)