Biking the Speyside Way.....Fochabers - Craigellachie

Walk/Bike: Speyside Way Fochabers – Craigellachie circuit

The logistics of transport from the beginning at Fochabers and getting back again from my base made this unpractical to do as a ramble but it could certainly be done by bike, so that was my choice.

It was a colder morning than the previous days when I arrived at my starting point at the square in Fochabers. The sky was bright enough with high level clouds but I was under a bit of time pressure as a south to north weather front was promising heavy rain by afternoon. Indeed the good lady sent me a message that it was already heavy rain in Barassie. Hence my early start.

I love biking but it has one big failure that I need to address as it impacted me several times recently. That is I do not have a phone mount on my handlebars so if unsure I have to stop, get the phone out of my pocket, reconfigure and get on with it. But this is bloody annoying and getting from the town square to the proper waymark start was one of those. Up and down streets, alongside dog walkers, no signs to be seen until there was one after the school, yahoo.

I confess that I had not carried out the best preparation. I had looked at the route and noted one possible route blocker for the bike. I had only glanced at the elevation, a glance was not nearly enough as it turned out. And of course the unknown quantity of gates. They get mentioned but would I get past with a bike, that was a big concern? It did not help that my Cicerone guide details it as a south to north trip so I lost a bit of interest reading it. PS: my copy is also well out of date as I found out en route.

Attractive rural landscape outside Fochabers

From my research I knew that it would be hard going at times but it turned out to be a bigger adventure than expected.

Once out of Fochabers I expected a fairly gentle quiet stretch of road that turned out to be a mini mountain stage of the Tour de France. Up and down from the start to Ordiequish Hill and then a vertical descent from the Earth Pillars car park, a hair pin bend and back up an even steeper ascent praying a car did not materialise in front of me.

Through a pleasant forest section then another steep twisting fast descent where I did meet traffic. An old dear in her old Suzuki, in the middle of a narrow road, not expecting me, eyes agog as I flashed passed almost taking her wing mirror off. Of course right on her tail was another Suzuki, this time an old boy whose passenger I briefly noticed had her hand over her mouth, that gave them something to talk about over their scones and as for me it certainly got my heart rate up.

Workers on right of bridge and another on for getting equipment across the left and the boat

Arrived at Boat o' Brig and spent a few minutes resting and watching the workers on the bridge over the Spey. This would be a cold job at this time of the year.  

The next bit was my main concern, a set of steps which were narrow and full of fallen leaves, slippery as hell. My heavy MTB does not like being pushed and I shoved my glasses in to my pocket as they had steamed up. Got the bike after a lot of huffing and puffing. No sign left or right? 

Last sight of the Spey for a while before turning back and heading inland

Well this is the Speyside Way and the right followed the river, wrong! Thankfully not too far down I did another phone check and turned back. 

The start of the gloopy section alongside the farm

This and the following section to Bridgeton Farm was a muddy challenging bike ride but I did not fall off into the gloop, bonus point achieved.

Glad to get on a non muddy track I cycled gaily enjoying the view until I spotted a road ahead which shouldn’t have been there.

Of course I had rode passed the turn off but in my defence there was no signage until after the turn off.

I arrived at the shooting range where the red warning lights were flashing away. The SW sign was posted beside one of the bright lights so I missed the cut off before retreating without some hillbilly getting his pot-shot in.

Steam coming out of the Rothes distillery

Start of the worst biking section

Another challenging section with so much debris hiding the tree roots and the large rocks that regularly kicked the bike off course. If I had came off there was a nasty drop on my right and I got very close to it at times. On the final ascent both tyres spun out and I had to jump off and push but luckily I was almost at the top joining part of the Ben Aigan track system.

I had a wee get my breath back break. I was pleased as I thought that I had done most of the climbing but boy was I wrong.

The high point, still looking good over the Moray Firth

The next section dropped at first then rose and rose. I could see the Spey way below me thinking this is not right the route I should be alongside it. No doubt the farming and sporting estate interests have blocked it.

I was about to descend so went to put on my glasses and discovered that they were not in my pocket I had obviously not zipped it fully enough. Very annoyed as they were not cheap. Frustrated I decided that I would change my planned return route and backtrack via this route.

Even now I thought it was downhill all the way to Craigellachie but far from it. More up and down and on one fast downhill I turned a corner to meet a pair of old codgers on my right side. I was doing around 25mph and they were doing about 5mph so I had to react quickly and just managed to avoid them.

Long view of the Telford Bridge

From here the section down to Craigellachie was longer than I thought so when I reached my finish point I stopped for refreshment and thinking time. 

My finish point the Fiddichside Inn

I was annoyed at losing the glasses but the effort of returning over that high ground and the dangers of descending the leafy muddy sections made my mind up. Cheer up, positive thoughts only, need to phone the good lady and tell her my Xmas pressie has been decided!!

I took the main road up to Rothes, stopping to view the old bridge.

A few close passes to irritate me, mainly white van men. Leaving Rothes I took the side road that would run alongside the Spey and eventually get me back to Fochabers. It was much quicker on the tarmac and although it was up and down a lot less so than had I backtracked.

I had been thinking about where I could have lost my glasses. I looked over and saw the Spey bridge where the steps were, one possible location as I had to manhandle the bike up them. About half a mile away so I detoured over to it. Not overly confident I walked up the steps and there they were, half buried, lying in the leaves, wow, what a break.

As I was here I went back via my outward route, climbing up to the summit of Tor Hill before the gradient eased. A few miles later it was down and up hells glen and then it was time for a good downhill run back to the start.

Pine needles aplenty

So that was quite a trip and as said more demanding than expected, my legs were tired at the finish. One I will remember for some time. It was still dry but maybe the rain would have been welcomed to wash down the bike before getting it on the carrier.

Ascent: 761m

Distance: 40.9km

Time: 2.59

Wildlife: Grey Heron; Pheasant; Redwing; Dunnock; Blackbird;

Just what I needed as a recovery ramble.....Beinn na Feusaige

Hill: Beinn na Feusaige (Mountain of the beard)

Type: Fiona

Height: 625m

Yesterday had been one of my worst physical days on a hill with a general feeling of fatigue and weakness so much so that I really struggled complete the route but I did and todays another day. I had been bitten on the neck a few days ago and had not felt right since but other people have said that there is a lot of Covid about so who knows.

No alarm set so a slightly longer lie. Stiff feeling stiff legged and a bit under the weather but I did not want to laze about so Plan A aborted and Plan B enacted.

Beinn na Feusaige on left with Carn Beag on right

When I was out for a cycle the other night I noticed an estate track going a good way up towards a ridge where there was a Fiona that I wanted to bag. Looking at the map and I could utilise the track for 2/3rds of the ramble then a tough but short moorland section. Surely I could make that? If not the summit at least I could use the track to the lochan for a workout. You can combine this hill with Carn Breac but the ground between is not the nicest so not for me today.

At the gate there was a sign to contact the estate as deer stalking was in progress but this was a Sunday so no point.

As I shuffled up the track I was hawking up a lot of phlegm, a clear sign all was not well with my body. Thankfully that was short lived and I felt better.

Decent views after the climb

It was a nondescript track until I reached the high point where the views opened out over the Torridon Hills. Plenty of high and low cloud/mist giving an atmospheric feeling to the hike.

Scotch Argus

There was a strange quietness as I walked along the high track, the atmospheric conditions had also brought the sound of silence. No birds singing for the last few kilometres, no deer, no sheep and not even the obligatory raven so far. The only sound apart from my feet crunching on the stone track was the buzzing of bees on the very beautiful, but sporadic, patches of purple heather.

Headed for high point on the the right to get on the plateau quickly

Found the turn off to the lochan but before I went too far up it it I spotted a faint deer track heading onto the peat hagged moor. My signal to get off the track onto the moor so lets go for it. Of course the track only lasted for a short time but it was enough to avoid the worse of the eroded hags and the sphagnum patches.

Lochan Sgeireach

I have rambled over a lot worse terrain, the hags were straight forward to avoid and as I rose I had good views down to the lochan where the ripples of rising fish made me wish I had brought a travel rod. It took no time to gain the plateau. 

A line of Torridon giants

Looking across to my left in the distance I could see a small herd of deer on Carn Beag. Also on my hill there were lots of hoof prints in the peat as well as droppings fresh enough to have flies on them, so they were around. A little further on there was a distinct aroma of musk. They must be close but I was slightly downwind so they might not be aware of me. No such luck. I spotted one head looking at me, then other two before off they scarpered, over the ridge. But having seen enough deer I knew the next step in this process. Sure enough a head appeared peeking over the ridge then more heads and bodies appeared. They had a good stare at me before they scarpered for good.

View from the top

I was close to the top and wandered up to the high point. This could be a superb viewpoint but sadly the low clouds prevented views of Moruisg and the nearby Monar hills. Nor of the more distant Strathfarrer, Affric and Kintail hills. Still you take what you can get and it was good enough. 

It was so humid that I was sweating buckets which alerted all the beasties. Human warmth and sweat a la carte to them so I didn't hang about for too long.

Looking back Loch Maree

I love clouds sweeping through fast, hate them when they linger

Clouds passed through and I can see my track

Simply backtracked taking in the clear views over the nearby Torridon Hills. Most summits coming and going with cloud apart from Slioch whose top seemed to stay under cloud for the whole trip. But even from afar they looked impressively huge beasts.

Meall a' Chaorainn, I remember a lot of deer and peat hags up there

Back on the track the views descending were of rugged moorland with the Achnasheen Fiona of Meall a’ Chaorainn breaking the flatness.

The solitary cottage with the Strathfarrer Munros way behind

Then on the final descent the Strathfarrer Corbetts were showing well and down below me a solitary cottage. I thought it was abandoned until I noticed smoke from a chimney, must be a cool cottage inside.

Thankfully the midgies had disappeared from the parking area. Physically I felt better so hopefully the shorter ramble did just trick.

Ascent: 582m

Distance: 13.4km

Time: 3.49

Wildlife: Buzzard; Red deer (hinds); Meadow Pipit; Scotch Argus

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This ramble was literally a last minute decision so I had not done any research on the hill prior to the walk. It was not until after the event that I read that there was a 2^nd World War crash site near the summit. Had I been aware I would have investigated the area. My second crash site in two days.

Notes were taken from the Blog ‘Old Mans thoughts and tales’. Heavy Whaller MBE.

USAAF Martin B-26C Marauder 41-34707 was on a transit flight from the USA via Meeks Field (Keflavík, Iceland) to Prestwick in Scotland. This was a recognised aircraft ferry route, which should have taken the Marauder over Stornoway in the Western Isles. However, for some reason, the aircraft was flying too far East of the prescribed course, and therefore over high ground on the Scottish mainland.

As the Marauder continued on its course through mist and rain, it struck the side of Beinn na Feusaige (625m / 2,051ft) in Glen Carron, near Achnasheen [map] on the NW mainland of Scotland.

Sadly all the airmen died in this accident. The crashed aircraft was destroyed by an ensuing fire.

• 1st Lt Merritt E Young (26) (O-662715), Pilot, USAAF.
  (Buried, Payne, Paulding County, Ohio, USA.)

• 2nd Lt Robert A Anderson (O-729949), Bomb Aimer, USAAF.
  (Buried, Madingley Cemetery, Cambridge, UK.)

• Staff Sgt Vincenzo (Vincent) Bravo (24) (11021367), Flt Engr., USAAF.
  (Buried, Medfield, Massachusetts, USA.)

• Staff Sgt Marshall R Miller (38111816), Radio Op., USAAF.
  (Buried, Oakwood Cemetery, Austin, Texas, USA.)

• Master Sgt Lewis M Cross (14069227), Gnr., USAAF.
  (Buried, Madingley Cemetery, Cambridge, UK.)

Two hills required for one blue balloon.....Creag a' Mhadaidh

Hill: Creag a’ Mhadaidh (Cliff of the fox, dog) (612m) & Gualann Sheileach (Willow Hill)

Type: Fiona

Height: 612m

Typically it was once again a mixed weather forecast with rain and low cloud so I changed my plans and decided to go for the lowest hill available to me for my short ramble.

I had two options from the south, one starting at Loch Rannoch and one from the north at Dalnaspidal. I had used the northern route a few years back to the nearby Corbett Beinn Mholach so for a new perspective I opted for the southern start.

I wanted to get back to the good lady sooner than later so I opted to bike in saving about 2 hours on the trip. One of the reports I read mentioned pushing a bike around 2 fields before meeting the path, which was not on with my heavy bike so decision made.

My chosen route followed an old right of way which is a Scottish Hill track and included in the Scotways book (route 152).

As I got ready the light showers were already on/off, it was windy and the waves on Loch Rannoch were already crashing in beside my parking spot, I was close to not bothering.

This side of Perthshire has almost every lay by blocked but I got lucky to park up near my starting point and cycled to the small stone bridge over the Allt a’ Chreagain Odhair. A farm track headed towards Craiganour Lodge but veered north before entering the grounds and chased sheep into the woods.

Pleasant mixed wood

It was a pleasant cycle through the woods but there were a few cattle grids which meant it was a bit stop/start. Must be getting old and feart in the past I would have cycled over them.

Before long I was out of the trees and onto the moor. The good track for cycling was continuing to climb at a good gradient but twisting and turning so never boring.

My hills left and right with Meall na Leitreach under cloud behind them

I was starting to get glimpses of my two hills but just behind them there was a bigger peak with its top under cloud. Some doubt kicked in as I wondered if that indeed was my target. Thankfully it wasn't.

The sheep around here are the sprinting running type, that is sprinting in front of me until a mad leap left or right, my hands fingering the brakes just in case.

I arrived between my two hills and found a small quarry to leave the bike.

This is an interesting pair of hills as both are marked on the OS map as being 612m high but it appears that is is acknowledged that Gualann is 1m lower. Surprisingly the SMC guide to The Grahams makes no mention of this but do a search for Gualann and it is always measured at 612m.

Too climb both was the question, not to be answered until Mhadaidh has been conquered but almost certainly so.

The boggy section to cross first

Some showers running up Loch Rannoch

So off to Mhadaidh it was. There was about 1/2km of rough marshy moorland to cross before any height was gained. Quite wet after the recent rain. There are on/off quad bike and animal tracks but just as much is just using your skills to find the better going. The moor is criss-crossed with water channels, mostly hidden from above and some narrow knee deep ditches so being careful was obvious.

The flat ground up top

Circa 100m of steeper ground before it flattens out again and you realise that the top is about another 500m away over mixed ground.

But the final summit area offers super views over a barren landscape. Tempting to say unmarked by human hand but most of the lochs in this area maybe original water but the hydro industry will be involved somewhere along the line. The SMC book describes the hills name as a misnomer as it is indeed it is just a high point on the moor.

From summit view to Loch Errochty

View back to Loch Rannoch and the track I just cycled up

Still the views up north over Loch Garry and west over to Loch Errochty are quite special, not forgetting the huge mass of Loch Rannoch behind me.

View across to the top of Gualann Sheileach with the trig of Beinn Mholach behind

Looking back the first thing in my view was my 2^nd hill for today, Gualann Sheileach, but it is the huge bulk behind it that really catches my eye. This bulk is the Corbett of Beinn Mholach my aforementioned ramble from Dalnaspidal, no bikes then and from up here it looks an even longer walk than I remembered.

Summer has definitely moved on, the wind up here was on the cool side, no time to linger.

Duinish bothy centre left

Whilst descending the sun briefly shone through the clouds illuminating the Duinish bothy, a special moment on a grey day, everything Scotland's weather often unexpectedly delivers.

As per the forecast showers were passing over Loch Rannoch but so far none had encompassed me, long may it continue.

The mid peak on the right is the high spot

On my descent, I had observed a probable ascent route up Gualann via a grass gully. From here the terrain on Gualann looked easier going but not for the first time I was mistaken.

The grassy gully was fairly direct but it held another hidden water course so plenty more hidden narrow holes to do some damage. I could hear the water gurgling away as it dropped but rarely could I see it, lots of prodding with my poles.

Of course when I reached the top of the gully it was similar to Mhadaidh with about half a kilometre to the summit but much more of a contouring route. And if anything this was the worst walking section with tussocks, heather and peat hags to overcome.

Summit the mid point

The three tops thankfully descend in height from my left to right so the first one I reached was the highest top. A small cairn but no sign of the Willows, long since gone.

View from summit to Beinn Mholach

Very rough ground between here and Rannoch Station

View North to Loch Garry on the left

Again it was a smallish hill with decent views and it brought Mholach must closer and even more imposing. The ascent from the other side was fairly straightforward as I recall.

My descent back to the track was easier by picking out better lines, especially ;ower down on the bare grass grazed by the sheep. But then I had a problem. I could not find my bike. Normally I mark a GPS location but did not today. I had come down above where I expected so a frustrating time walking up and down until I spotted a bike handle further down the track towards Rannoch, big relief.

Typical view of the pointed peak of Schiehallion

The fast downhill descent to Loch Rannoch was fun, just over 15mins along with the downhill MTB buzz, a perfect end to a good short ramble.

Ascent: 664m

Distance: 19.6km

Time: 3.21

Wildlife: Common Frog; Meadow Pipit; Wren; Scotch Argus;

Just a half a ramble today.....Beinn Bhreac Cairngorm

Hill: Beinn Bhreac (Cairngorm) (Speckled Hill)

Type: Munro

Height: 930m

I was still feeling tightness and tenderness with the medial calf that I strained a few weeks ago so I was a bit troubled about what to do today. I had signed up for this walk which I knew should be a straightforward Munro double. The distance was the issue as I was not convinced that the calf would survive a 30k hike so I opted to reduce that by cycling to Derry Lodge. My plan was to decide after Beinn Bhreac whether to continue or not but the tightness/pain had gone up a few notches on the morning of the walk so decision made, just a single Munro.

Derry Cairngorm in the shade, Carn a' Mhain left of centre

At the Linn of Dee start Gillian from ADRC was the only other walker apart from the guide. After I had told the organiser I was cycling part of it it appeared that we all did. We all cycled the almost 4 miles to Derry Lodge which was less than 30 minutes from Linn of Dee, where the walk officially started, time saved. Heard a cuckoo calling, must be about time for the males to start migrating back to Africa.

Start of ATV track

Views opening up Tor of Beinn Mheadhoin

All the reports that I had read described walking a kilometre before cutting up the hill. But after only a couple of minutes the guide surprised me by heading off up an ATV track. His reasoning was that it was less boggy and less populated. Both correct as no-one else was seen on this route until we neared the normal track.

1st view of Beinn Bhreac on left we continue up to the right

This turned out to be a nice gradient and a pleasant walk, the weather good. Views getting better as we rose. We continued on the ATV track almost to the top of Meall an Lundain at 777m.

Full view of Beinn Bhreac 

Just before the top we headed cross country. We dropped about 70m and the terrain involved a lot of dodging the many peat hags. I could see a couple of walkers about half way up the final pull to the coll of Beinn Bhreac. There were other walkers around but I recognised their outfits as being the pair who were just in front of us at Derry Lodge. Although I enjoyed the different route it was a longer walk, added another 70m of ascent and about 30 minutes extra to the top. No issue for me but If I had been doing both it added extra on an already long day.

Ascent track on right, descent on left

Looking at the final climb our route was taking us up via a clear path on the eastern side but slightly further west walkers were using another track, the main one.

A straightforward ascent, losing and re finding the track a few times but no difficulty to the ridge.

The cairn was a short crossing across the boulder field but pretty easy going normally but today the rocky terrain was testing my calf. 

View to Lochnagar

Beinn a' Chaorainn in the centre

Great views all round. A bit hazy over to the Lochnagar group but the main view dominated by Derry Cairngorm and the torr's on Beinn Mheadhoin were spectacular.

With regret I had to leave the others. Disappointed as the other Munro involved no major ascent but as said not for me today.

I wandered across the stony terrain before deciding to just head down where I soon picked up the main track. I could see a small cairn in the distance. Again the track came and went but just headed to the cairn and picked it up again.

From the cairn another good view of the track heading far down but surprisingly nobody ascending. Solo time again.

Quite boggy in parts but once I hit the trees the bog factor went up considerably so 15 minutes of gloop avoiding before I hit the return track.

Azure Hawker

Then walked the kilometre as mentioned earlier back to to Derry Lodge and the bike was still there. It was a good section for birdlife and I had a brilliant bonus, an Azure Hawker. Pretty sure that it was my 1^st sighting of the year.

Bike park

Biked the same track but when I reached the road I extended the cycle by a few more miles to get a bit more out of the day.

Back at the car my leg was throbbing a bit more so the right decision had been made to do just the one hill. A good ramble and an opportunity is there to return one day for the other Munro.

Ascent: 801m

Distance: 21.5km

Time: 5.02

Wildlife: Red Grouse; Red Kite; Common Frog; Vole; Redstart; Willow Warbler; Peacock Butterfly; Meadow Pipit; Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Goldcrest; Azure Hawker; Cuckoo;