More of an adventure than expected on the West Highland Way.....Kings House - Kinlochleven

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Kings House – Kinlochleven

I was reflecting that most of my West Highland Way rambles have been as a Plan B, bad weather option, which is not at all fair as I have missed out on some stupendous views whilst walking in the rain. Today was no different, another Plan B option due to the forecasted wind and rain. However even Plan B was almost a no goer.

I have been trying things differently at times this year, sometimes utilising public transport and frankly enjoying the non driving. Today the very comfortable and fairly quiet Citylink bus, 1^st out of Glasgow for Skye, deposited me at the Glencoe Ski Centre road end. The bus driver said “do you really want to do this”? As I watched the bus pull away I could have cried and yelled 'no'. The rain was lashing down, driven on by 30+mph winds and there was nobody else around. It was kinda weird, like being in a bad movie.

As I walked to the Kings House I was already considering other options, none of them favourable.

Approaching the hotel some walkers emerged, yippee a line of sight at least, luminous green covers on their backs.

Grey, wet and lonely

The weather forecast for this morning at least showed the high winds from the south east, mainly at my back. But as I stumbled along the section to Altnafeadh it was fully in my face, now a true westerly. Another reply to the Met Office app's question re how accurate was this for you today?

To throw into the mixing pot I was feeling chesty and not breathing at all normally which was concerning.

About half way along there are three mapped streams flowing off Beinn a Chrulaiste. With the heavy rain I counted that there were now 7 of them all joining into the flow above me, so I had to cross it. It was flowing fast and wide covering the obvious standing stones. There was no sign of the 3 guys ahead so they had crossed. Of course being a numpty I had not brought my walking poles as who needs them on the West Highland Way? I dithered, turning back not really an option although it would have been the most sensible. For those not versed in Scotland's public transport there are fewer public transport buses heading through Glencoe than you might think. The stop at the ski centre has no shelter so I did not fancy a long wait there. The next stop is Glencoe visitor centre, a long way from where I was and no pick up stop at Altnafeadh.

Three young frauleins turned up and crossed, not without difficulty, using poles and holding each other, whilst I watched. They wandered off so I decided to cross not very elegantly, crab fashion holding some rocks, made it. They had obviously decided I was too feart for rounding the corner immediately finding two bare backsides in front of me, toilet break. The only one with her pants on smirked as I went by, serves them right for not helping an old man across that water hazard. Smug but little did I know that a worse water crossing was en route, the frauleins would be around again.

Plenty of water outlets running off the 'Bookle'

Frauleins marching away from me

The white of the bothy stood out on this grey day

At Altnafeadh I seriously considered going back knowing I would be around the same time as a bus. But I would have to get over the burn again and my stubbornness to complete the walk kicked in.

The Devil's Staircase in the dry

Looking back from near the top

The wind had disappeared as I headed up the Devil’s Staircase. A mixture of sunshine and heavy showers. A good winding trail and my shallow breathing had eased although I am sure some of the walkers looking back were concerned about my wheezing rather than the views. By the way there are great views looking back.

I was pleased to reach the highpoint of the West highland Way marked by two cairns, no I don’t know why two. But true to form the heavens opened and the wind roared, appropriately for the high point it was bloody cold and the rain was hail for a while, sore on the face.

The water crossings were beside the dark green showing mid left

The one glimmer of hope before the rains returned

The track could be seen winding across the remote moor. Walkhighlands mentions descending and crossing a burn on stepping stones. The stones were there, quite substantial, flat topped and widely spaced. The tops were under the fast running water level but manageable.

About 30 metres further on and round a bend a 2^nd burn appears, far wider, running much faster and no stepping stones. A girl on the far side said she had crossed further up the hillside but pointed to her two friends who had not risked the same crossing as her and were now half way up a big hill, still on the wrong side. I ambled up a bit but it was too narrow with faster deeper water, no chance of jumping.

As I looked back the frauleins arrived and decided a full on attack with a line of 3 holding each other, they got very wet but got across. I think it was a nice smile they gave me, looking at my predicament, they marched on.

Slighted I had no option but to cross. I was soon in deep almost up to my knees. The current was so strong that every leg lift was moving the foot so no option other than to go crab again, to feel underwater boulders, to get stability, and then I was over. With the amount of rain still falling the level was only going to rise and would be impassable for some later in the day. Emptied the water out of my boots but kept my dry socks for later just in case there were more burns.

Excellent views over the Blackwater reservoir but the wind and rain returned with a vengeance. On the descent another waterflow was seen, a proper river in these conditions and no way that would be crossed but thankfully it had a bridge.

Descending to Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn ahead

A good example of the extreme water levels

Some more moor then a long tree lined descent into Kinlochleven. I had made such good time that I had a 45 minute wait for a bus. The heavens opened so I just waited it out in the bus shelter.

Water pressure too high for this pipe

River Leven flowing fast and wide

Really bad weather which made for some amazing atmospheric views including the many waterfalls, some of which were truly outstanding examples of the power of water/nature. A walk I would repeat but on a good day.

Ascent: 448m

Distance: 14.58

Time: 3.31

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Pied Wagtail

A very wet day on the West Highland Way.....Inverarnan - Crianlarich

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Inverarnan – Crianlarich

I really needed to get outdoors, going stir crazy, but from my walk planner I had put this day aside for a different ramble but it was such an awful weather forecast that the chosen ramble was not going a good choice. I wanted a walk so checked my to-do list and chose this section of the West Highland Way, ideal for a poor weather day.

I drove to Crianlarich to meet the bus that I had identified on their website last night. Arrived at the car park in good time, in the rain, so decided to put boots etc on at the bus stop. Happened to look at the paper copy on the bus shelter and you guessed it, that bus I was expecting was not showing on the timetable. The next one was a further hour away. I was not going home so coffee and cake time.

The bus, from Skye, turned up a couple of minutes late but that was fine. Had a good natter driving down with the not so young female bus driver, she was a typical Glasgow character. She was also a good mind reader. As she stopped at The Drovers Inn she said ‘going for a pint first’? It had crossed my mind, good job I am not married to her.

It was pouring down as I stepped off the bus and the Drovers car park was mobbed so I passed on that pint.

I walked down to the camp site where I met a Chinese guy who asked If I knew where the West Highland Way was! To be fair it was about 10 metres away behind a building but there were two yellow Way markers beside us, how had he made it this far? I politely showed him the way.

There is not a lot to say about this section as it is a typical hard packed track. Today there was rain for about two thirds of the walk with the mountain views non existent. The river was noisy with all the water rushing down and there were a few good glimpses of various waterfalls.

Some the Falls of Falloch

There were burns cascading water everywhere, a good volume of it flooding the track, just as well I had good leather boots on, lightweight stuff would have been very soggy.

Heading out onto open countryside. Mt Chinese pal in yellow ahead. I was soon to pass him.

View towards An Caisteal, be grim Munro bagging today

The track is one continual short roller coaster of undulating walking. It actually was going a bit higher at times than I expected but that's because I didn't bother to look at a map first.

Another flood and this section will be washed away ant it will be a major rebuild

Time to hula hoop under the railway line. Must be interesting if a train comes over whilst you are under it.

The ramble was devoid of people. I had expected that as most walkers would have started from Inverarnan many hours before me or be doing a very long section and would not be up this way for a while yet. Indeed apart from Mr Chinaman going north the few people I met were walking/cycling the other way.

Final high section before dropping off to Crianlarich

Interesting group of trees. With the prevailing SW weather I would have thought the front trees would be more stunted than the back.

The weather started to brighten a little as I reached the junction where I headed down to Crianlarich but of course it was raining again when I got to the car.

Overall it was not the outing that I had wanted but it was a good plan B. I needed the walk, as my legs told me later, surprisingly a bit achy for a short outing.

Ascent: 302m

Distance: 11.5km

Time: 2.51

Wildlife: Spotted Flycatcher (h); Chaffinch (m+f); Stonechat (m); Blue Tit;

A fun bike/hike.....Beinn Dearg (Atholl)

Hill: Beinn Dearg (Red Mountain)

Type: Munro

Height: 1008m

The forecast for today had varied dramatically over the last 72 hours. 3 days ago torrential rain & strong winds. 2 days ago showers & strong winds. Yesterday blue skies & strong winds. I woke very early, looked out the window, low grey clouds scudding across the sky, back to bed. Up for real, looked out, higher clouds still scudding across, brighter outlook, go for it.

From the planning stage I had this pencilled, no inked in, as a bike/hike. Decision backed up by a torn medial calf muscle 3 weeks ago which meant I did not fancy a forced march for almost 30 kilometres. It had improved but it was far from normal so if it strained again it could be a long, painful hobble back. So no debate bike/hike it was.

Although I was an early starter I was surprised that only 3 other vehicles at the car park.

On the road, literally, for a short section before hitting the track through the trees, a lovely early morning setting.

From reports I knew that there was a gate to access the moor and my only concern was would I get the bike through it, kissing gates are a no no for a bulky ebike. Main gate locked but thankfully there was a normal side gate that I could squeeze it through.

Not even any sheep

Now onto the old land rover track where there was a fair amount of climbing for a heavy MTB so the battery power was used more than I wanted but hey that’s what I bought it for.

I cycled with the Banvie Burn on my left along with the vast open moorland but the track required full concentration so viewing was limited unless I stopped. A pity as this was my first visit to Glen Banvie.

View back towards Blair Atholl

The track ahead

Reached the large Lady March cairn which has no significance other than a rich persons picnic spot. Stood around and took in the long desolate moorland, really glad I was not walking this.

Beinn Dearg pointed top in centre

Just before the 4 mile mark I got my 1^st sighting of the huge boulder cairn at the summit of Beinn Dearg. I would not see it again until I was on the top plateau towards the end of the walk.

From the cairn it was more rolling with some ups and downs, battery power on and off.

Picturesque bothy

There is a final fast drop of 60m to the bothy. This descent tested the brakes and my bike skills, everything bouncing and juddering and trying not to fall off with the many boulders kicking the bike sideways and potentially off the track. Still, it got the adrenalin going, good fun.

At the bothy I spoke to a couple who had overnighted and were about to walk back to Blair Atholl. Said it was very peaceful place to spend the night.

Corbett of Beinn Mheadhonach directly ahead

Start of zig zags

I had originally planned to leave the bike at the bothy but with the deteriorating forecast for the afternoon I cycled further on to the start of the zig zags. Before that I had a wee bike push across the burn, glad it was not running deeper.

The track up the zig zags was in good condition and the gradient was not too bad at all, views behind opening up for my brief respites.

Been a while since I spotted the top

The final section was a straight line up to the plateau. Just before reaching the plateau I spotted the summit which came into view on my left. On the plateau I stuck to the high path, just one boggy section with deer prints deep in the mud.

The predicted wind for the top was 30mph gusting to 45mph and it felt every bit like it. Luckily it was mostly behind for my final ascent. Spoke to a walker coming off the top, another bike/hiker,who told me it was worse on the summit. Why do people constantly do that, do they think I will turn back?

The boulder strewn rocks were sandy and the top occasionally gave gave an insight of what might be viewed in the right light for the named red hill. Ptarmigan droppings around the boulders but never spotted one.

Impressive trig

View north towards the Cairngorms and a lot of nothing

Reached the top, 2.35 from the start which I was delighted with. No 10 hour walking day today. Although with the wind I did not hang about, a few snaps and gone. To be fair one gust did almost knock me off my feet. 

Bottom of zig zag. On left track via Glen Tilt if doing a circular route

Happy to see bike still there

Back the same way into the face of the wind so very glad to be off the plateau, descending on the zig zags and back to the bike. I had not eaten since my brief stop earlier so cycled back to the bothy for a pleasant break, minimal wind and some warmth in this sheltered spot.

The track up from Glen Tilt and a quarry

The return cycle was obviously more downhill so fast and fun, full concentration very much still required.

When I was back into the woods I diverted from the ascent route and followed a couple of marked trails. I had made good time and was happy cycling about the woods before heading back to the start.

Apart from the distance it is as straightforward a Munro as you get.

It was only when I got back to the parking area that I noticed it was now an electronic pay car park, I hadn't paid so wondered if I would get fined?

A cracking bike hike which delivered everything I wanted from this outing. A bit less wind would have been nice, it is meant to be summer after all!!

Ascent: 1187m

Distance: 34.1km

Time: 4.55

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Chaffinch

Another rough and ready sub.....Carn na Loine

Hill: Carn na Loine (Tufted/Snowflake hill?)

Type: Sub2k

Height: 549m

Today's ramble was a trip to the upper moorlands of Moray. I knew from my preparation that some of the lower sections of these hills would be typical horrible moorland terrain and it did not disappoint.

Whilst a lot of the country was still covered with low grey cloud Moray was almost all blue sky so I was happy that I was here. The most frequent option is to do a circular route but with my sore calf I opted for an up and down. As it turned out the distances would have been similar.

From the parking area a view of autumn trees was a nice start

There was no obvious parking near the start of my walk so I parked up on an off road grassy spot, which would have been the finish if I did the circuit. Walked the kilometre to the start of the mast track at Knock of Auchnahannet. The kilometre was a lovely morning walk, albeit walking on an undulating tarmac minor road. The return final kilometre was just as pleasant viewing but much more painful.

Walking down the road I could see the mast track winding up in the middle of the picture

A crisp morning, autumn colours on the trees, few sounds apart from cattle calling in a field somewhere nearby. A few up market looking houses were half hidden in the trees. On my right I also had a view of the track that I was going to use for roughly half of the ascent (the easy bit).

Lovely tree walk to the moor full of birdsong and a view of the hill ahead

The track is a maintenance track for a mast on the nearby hill of Tom Mor. Clearly it was used by the farm/estate more than for mast maintenance but I was glad it was there. Lower down this is sheep farming but the upper slopes are patched heather indicating grouse shooting.

I had an option but followed this track, correct! trees were full of Fieldfare but they scattered as soon as they spotted me.

It was one of those beautiful crisp autumn mornings that made me happy to live in Scotland. Air clarity meant great viewing and as the morning grew so did the temperatures.

One field had a large flock feeding and constantly on the move. Focused the camera lens on them and delighted to see my 1^st Redwings on the year, 50+.

Walked up the track, listening to the birds, Fieldfares in good numbers; calf throbbing; probably a mistake but kept going.

As the crow flies I was less than 10 miles from Grantown on Spey but this felt like a different world, not that Grantown is big city stuff!! Big open landscape and no traffic noise, wonderful.

Entering the moor the target directly ahead

Walking up the hill path onto the open moor it was absolutely stunning enjoying that beautiful autumn day. Just me and a lot of sheep. You know, when you go past an enclosure or a transportation van full of sheep the smell can be overpowering and frankly not pleasant. But out here on the open moor, in their natural environment it was actually a pleasant smell, a gentle reminder that I was here at one with nature.

Finally the good track walking was over and it was time to go off piste and head up towards the ridge. For a couple of minutes I wandered up and down but there was no path that I could see. So I just took the plunge onto the moorland. My first steps was full confirmation of what lay ahead for the next half an hour and it was not going to be pleasant.

Horrible, headed for the thin line in the middle hoping it would be better going, it wasn't!

Think of your worst terrain and this was probably comparable. It was constantly changing underfoot to just remind me that the landscape was the boss here.

This section went something like this. Heather which was waist high at times making movement awkward and hiding everything underneath. Alongside and mixed with the tussocks, not quite Dumfries & Galloway worst but not far off, constantly twisting and rotating my feet thus constantly throwing me off balance. Bad thoughts beginning to be vocalised.

Not content with just those there were the boggy bits with the many hidden leg breaking water routes I could hear but not see. At one point when one leg was sunk into a narrow water slit, almost to my crotch, I did question my wisdom about this ramble.

My glass half full side was clinging to the belief that as I got higher the going would improve and thankfully it did but only marginally.

If I had kept heading to the ridge I would have met an ATV track but as I did not know that at the time I was now taking a contouring route to where I thought the summit was.

On the flatter rough ground at the top I now encountered proper peat hags which were shallow but still had to be avoided. I rambled around knowing the map showed a trig point but where was it?

Then over the top of a peat hag top I spotted a flat concrete shape. Finally reached it and it had a small peat hag trench right beside it.

Foreground the ridge I should have walked, beyond the Moray Firth.

As it is a stand alone hill the views were good all round. Looking North the ridge I should have walked but further on were the waters of the Moray Firth which shimmered in the sunshine. 

A good view of the best side of Corbett of Ben Rinnes

Turning towards the east the pointed peak of Ben Rinnes was so clear on the horizon. Memories coming back of my hike up there which was a few years ago, probably one of my earliest Corbetts.

As I was heading down I was glad to see the track along with a superb view of the Cairngorms.

Looking back the way I came I had a landscape view over Speyside with the Northern Cairngorm mountains in the distance. Some of the tops under cloud but most were clear. Worth the effort for these views.

Relieved to reach the track and spotted this grouse butt. There were many dotted around but no tracks beside them and no grouse seen or heard.

There was a cool northerly wind, not strong but enough to chill. As said I returned more or less the same way. I thought I had spotted an ATV track that might be easier so took a slightly different route through the crap but I was wrong and it was still crap.

Quick not in focus snap of the Roe deer buck

When I approached the farm buildings I spotted a Roe deer who had probably spotted me long before I spotted it. It ran about a bit, trapped,  before it stiff legged bounced away as if on springs. That made me smile at how lucky I was to see it.

A lovely ending to a short ramble in our special country but not that terrain. With hindsight I should have done the full circular route.

Ascent: 386m

Distance: 10.1km

Time: 3.07

Wildlife: Buzzard; Roe Deer (buck); Wren; Pheasant; Redwing; Chaffinch; Greenfinch; Treecreeper; Coal Tit; Robin; Goldcrest; Great Tit; Fieldfare