Watch out for the drop.....Carnan Cruithneachd

Hill: Carnan Cruithneachd (Hill of the Picts)

Type: Fiona

Height: 729m

The forecast indicated that today was to be the only fully dry day of our weeks break. So a pretty please to the good lady and I was given permission to ramble. So I headed for this nearby Fiona which I thought would be a quickie. An early start but as it turned out the ramble took an hour longer than I envisaged.

A beautiful morning when I parked up at the Mountain Rescue centre. That was an error as I could have gone a bit further and parked at the outdoor centre which would have saved me half an hour of road tramping.

An encouraging start when I heard the first of many cuckoos as I laced my boots, a smile brought to my face. I know some see them as parasites due to laying eggs in other birds nests but I find them remarkable and as said who doesn’t like the call of the male cuckoo. As an aside would you recognise the females call?

Before long I spotted the first of many small red deer herds on the flanks of the Corbett Sgurr an Airgid.

There were more people on the walk in than I expected. I knew of the 2 nearby Munros and the long distance route to Glen Affric. But what I didn't realise was that my walk in was also an option for Cape Wrath Way walkers. I spoke to a few of them en route, another reason for taking longer and surprisingly all bar one English guy were foreigners.

The initial stages had the bulky Munro of A’ Ghias-bheinn directly in my vision. At first I thought this was my target but soon realised my error and mine was still a long way away.

Target in the distance

The track split and I almost made the rookie error of not concentrating taking in the surroundings and following the people in front who were Munro baggers.

But I remembered I had to take the left fork which led to woods and across a well constructed bridge before hitting another tree plantation. A heavy shower ended the fully dry day prediction but thankfully it only lasted a few minutes. Although I did see many showers passing by on either side. When I returned the good lady commented that it must have been horrendous in that hail storm, another break as it did not hit me.

Another split in the trail but the left one was my possible descent route, at this stage I had not fully decided.

I went up to the side of the heather on the right

So up the right hand track until clear of the woods where a single narrow track steeply wound its way up onto the moor in short time. Heavy breathing time. I caught up with more walkers who were on yet another option, this is also the track to the Falls of Glomach.

The SMC book’s route was to follow this track to the high point. But this looked a long way away and I knew that the summit was almost a 90deg turn straight up.

Looked ok from here

So one of those last minute decisions was made and I went straight up. The initial slopes were steep but easy going on the good short grassy sections between the heather. But then the going got much tougher. 60deg slopes meant I was facing right into it and for about 30 metres I was on my knees at times, using the heather to hand pull me up.

Gradient eased and as I looked back down it was certainly steeper than it looked from below. Easier going but of course 3 false ridge tops before I got to my high point and had a view of the hill.

Thankfully I can see it

Still a lot of moor to cross to get there

It was probably about 2 kilometres away but it looked further across the undulating peat hagged moor. The going was fairly straightforward but it was very undulating, quite a few exhales as I crested one height to drop quite a bit before repeating a few times.

Got to the base and although it is craggy there were plenty of grassy rakes to evade them. As said plenty of red deer around and 3 let me get really close to them before moving off.

Summit in view

Puffing a bit I wound my way up to the high point. When I reached the top I got a fright as I glanced down to my left and realised it was a precipitous drop all the way all the way down to the River Elchaig. Wow a real vertigo moment, I had not expected that and glad I had arrived with full visibility and not in cloud, one step too far! Later I was speaking to an ex Mountain Rescue guy who said there had been fatalities from there.

The views were really superb in all directions so it was time for a seat and enjoy my mini pork pies and take it all in. These moments are what the slog is all about, well worth it.

Heading for the trees to the right

Finally time to descend and I opted for the circular descent as I could see the ATV track coming out of the woods. Tramped over the moorland to the track which was rough in places but better than the hags.

Relief no fence to climb

From the ascent I knew the plantation was enclosed by a deer fence so my only concern was if there was a locked gate but it was wide open. In the forest the track was extremely steep covered in stones and rocks so sliding as it was like walking on marbles so it was slow progress.

Finally back on the out route which somehow felt longer. Although I have heard quite a few Cuckoos this year I have not yet snapped one. At a clearing one was calling loudly. On the slopes there were only five small trees and patience paid off when I spotted it. Got my camera out and as I woke it up I heard a bleep, the battery had died.

So apart from the no cuckoo snap it was a good ramble. The gradients tested my fitness but I passed although I know it was at my pace, more comfortable with that now than trying to keep up with faster walkers, old age does not come without some drawbacks.

Back at the car more yacking with other walkers. I think chatting too often was my other half hour lost lol.

Ascent: 820m

Distance: 16.9km

Time: 5.23

Wildlife: Red Deer; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Cuckoo; Chaffinch; Coal Tit; Mistle Thrush; Wild Goats;

The hill on the middle of the moor with fantastic views.....Stob na Cruaiche

Hill: Stob na Cruaiche (Stub of the heap) (A’Chruach) (The heap)

Type: Fiona

Height: 739m

After some internal debate I decided to make this a linear bike/hike rather than a ridge circular. The main factor was that the weather was due to worsen, heavy rain, just after lunchtime and I had minimal wet gear with me.

Parked up at Rannoch Station with more blue sky above than expected. My 1^st issue was getting the bike through the gate at the railway. More than wide enough for a walker but very tight for a heavy MTB. Eventually I won the battle but spoiled the start.

The cycle was only 2 miles but even this involved a couple of wrong turns before I reached the timber lorries turning spot.

Bike was tied to a tree in clear view of anyone coming along the track but little other option. Then walked back past the turning circle where I found the ATV track.

It was a steep wee start but for a kilometre or so it is a wet boggy quagmire with much sideways jumping to stay on some dry bits. It has been reinforced in the past with wood slats and planking but much of that has been broken/eroded.

However it did not take long to break the treeline and get out onto the moor and onto a ‘slightly better’ ATV track, note the wording.

I was aware that the ATV had a deviation on my right and that this should not be missed or it was a long slog through pathless peat bogs.

A couple of times I thought I had spotted it but they soon turned back to the main track just avoiding more bog.

Finally another faint track went right which I followed and this time it was the real deal. The gradient was now super good, a long slow ascent. Of course the track was lost and then re-found but overall it was good going, soft underfoot, a nice change.

I had my eye on a single point that looked like a summit trig. Motivation works differently for everybody but the way my mind works I was happy to focus on this as the summit even though I knew it certainly wasn’t. But it worked until I reached it, which of course was not a trig but a slim pointed rock, and then had to refocus on another target.

The ATV track largely evaded the peat hags which was a good thing as the few encountered were deep trenches.

Plus this route which mainly headed west gave great views ahead of the remote water potted landscape of Rannoch moor along with the spectacular Black Mount and Glencoe Munros, more wow moments.

The final section twisted and turned where I was now on a steeper gradient to the summit but all in all still great going.

Before long the trig was reached. Yet another occasion where a relatively infrequently walked hill provides fantastic views due to its stand alone position.

The viewpoint has to cover at least 30 Munros as well as everything else.

Orchy/Glencoe/Nevis/Corrour/Alder

Missed by many a bagger but that is their loss, this stand alone peak is a top notch viewing point.

A simple return by the same route. The terrain was too rough for me to consider an alternative tramp. I still enjoyed great views over Rannoch Moor.

Getting lower down the Lochs of Rannoch, Eigheach & Laidon came into view shimmering in the harsh light. The weather was changing as I watched clouds on my left swiftly running past depositing rain/sleet but not on me today.

Even the muddy track in the woods seemed more straightforward than the ascent.

Bike still attached to the tree so all that was left was the short cycle and another battle with the kissing gate. During the struggle I thought that I was going to have to remove the front wheel at one point to get it through, the joys.

Because of the hills remoteness I was very surprised by the lack of birdlife in both the forest and on the moor. Even the Pipits and Skylark seen were less than the fingers on one hand. Plover & Grouse one spot each. Zero raptors or corvids, when was the last time I did not see a Raven on a remote moor, not often.

The sun had come back out with warmth so wandered to the station tearoom to find that they would not serve me if I wanted to sit outdoors, I would have to use the take away facilities, tourism in Scotland!!

Ascent: 570m

Distance: 14.5km

Time: 3.32

Wildlife: Coal Tit; Great Tit; Red Grouse; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Golden Plover;

Snow, heat & views.....Beinn Mheadhoin (Strathconon)

Hill: Beinn Mheadhoin (Middle Mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 613m

It was an interesting drive along a very narrow remote single track to get to the start of the walk. Met a couple of vehicles but thankfully no reversing required. The biggest surprise was about 10 miles in when I came across a sign ‘School’. In the middle of nowhere there was still an active primary school, blimey, long may it continue.

There was already a car in the small grassy parking area at Inverchoran. I parked carefully so that I could get out should other cars come along. There are 2 Fionas and a Corbett from this spot as well as cycling or just walking into the glens.

I had the option of this Fiona or its neighbour Meall na Faochaig and the final decision was the amount of snow. From here Mheadhoin looked the clearer so that was my choice.

The forecast was for a warm day but it certainly did not feel that when I started but I was clad lighter than normal.

View from the parking area at Inverchoran

I wandered down to the estate buildings where a sign indicated walkers to go left across a bridge to the cottage and cross the ford here. So being a good boy I did as told but the ford was wider and running deeper than expected. I was wearing my gaiters so got across without water going over my boots, a couple of handy stones just under the water but they had a good grip, not slimy.

An estate track wound its way up the hill and ahead of me I spotted an ATV heading up it. It was steep and I was puffing a lot more than expected, not until later would I learn I had yet another infection, it had been a bad run.

Having one of my breathers I spotted a couple of deer well camouflaged against the chocolate brown heather and the white snow patches. As I did so I looked back and noted that there were a couple more vehicles in the parking area and a party of 6 along with two dogs were walking down to the estate buildings. I didn’t see them again so I presume they were heading for the Corbett Bac an Eich.

The ATV track rose around the slopes of Creagan a’ Chaorainn and although it was loose and stony it could have made a good bike/hike.

Almost the end of the track for me. The Munro of Carn nam Gobhar beyond

I came to another ford and peaking out beyond it was the Munro Carn nam Gobhar thankfully not my destination.

Crossed the ford which was in the Am Fuar-alltan and soon after I spotted a faint ATV track going through the very boggy ground. What I had missed until found it on the descent was a good stalkers track which ran closer to the burn than my heading. One lives and learns.

Looks benign but all these snow patches held deep holes

So having missed the track I slipped and slid my way up the hill. There were many snow patches that I could not avoid crossing and stepping on many of them I went in over the knees. Thus it was slower and tougher going than this would normally be.

Spot the Golden Plover

Additionally there were many small crags which would also be straightforward to negotiate but the small but many deep snow pockets had to be managed making them a bit more awkward. A golden plover sounded its annoyance at being disturbed, its nest was no doubt close by but it did stay put long enough to let me get a snap.

No hardship to pause and take in the views as I climbed. The Corbett of Bac an Eich

As I got higher the snow on the more open ground was easier to get round. I was in no rush as the views were spectacular. On the summit area next to no snow.

The summit was reached and the view just appeared, a wow moment. Strathfarrer Munros

A wider shot

I spotted the high point which was situated on top of a small crag. When my head was above the crag line it was a genuine ‘wow’ moment as directly ahead was the snow covered Strathfarrer Munros. It was a memorable view. The 360deg view was a similar landscape of mostly white covered winter hills. Once again it proves that it does not have to be the biggest hill to get the best view.

As I took in the view I spotted a small bird bouncing my way. I thought it was going to land on the rocks beside me until it got within 6 feet or so when it took fright and turned away. Absolutely delighted as it was a female snow bunting, absolute yonks since I seen one. I briefly spotted a male and had a few more brief female sightings. They normally travel in small groups of 5-10. It was not just the views that made my day this was special.

Long view west to the Munros of Achnashellach

Unusually for me I spent a long time taking in and fully enjoying the views until the cold sent me on my return journey.

On the descent it was much warmer, so much so that I was unzipping both jacket and trouser vents to let some cooling air in.

Stunning descent with bags of views, I did not notice the lochan on the way up

About a third of the way off the hill I was avoiding a big snow patch when I discovered the stalkers track. For some reason it was mostly snow free so of course I followed it. There were a few times that I looked over to see my deep snow trail unbelievable that this good track was so close and that I had not spotted it.

There was one snow patch that I couldn’t avoid and had a heel slip. With an open jacket my slide introduced a lot of snow into my trousers and pants, unpleasant very wet and cold!!

I now had to cross the ford which this time was more awkward than on the ascent. That rise in temperature was enough to increase the snow melt and as such raising the water level.

Walking back down the track I had good views of Meall na Faochaig. From here it looked like there was more snow patches on its pathless slopes than I had encountered. I had considered doing the double but it would have been more of a grind than I was fit for today. I will leave it for another day. When it should be a nice outing, midgies excepted.

I arrived back at the estate houses to find that the snow melt water had risen considerably at the ford, no doubt I was going to get wet feet if I crossed. It was not just deeper but running much faster.

Well aa they were unlikely to see me again I ignored the water challenge and just walked past the estate houses without looking at their windows and not challenged by the inhabitants.

It was an enjoyable ramble but I knew that this was far from my normal levels of fitness which did reduce my enjoyment.

But what a panorama and a snow bunting, I will appreciate the positives.

Ascent: 584m

Distance: 9.6km

Time: 4.09

Wildlife: Raven; Snow Bunting; Red Deer; Meadow Pipit; Golden Plover; Peacock butterfly; Tortoiseshell butterfly;

Some say the best viewpoint on Mull, I wouldn't disagree, it was magnificent.....Ben Buie Mull

Hill: Ben Buie (Yellow mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 717m

It was time to add to my Mull collection. The SMC book promotes this hills route from Loch Buie but when I bagged Cruach Choireadail I had a good view of the hill from the other side and spotted a possible route from Glen More. My research indicated that the route from Loch Buie had a track for much of the way but also that it was a very steep ascent. 

From Glen More the ramble is pathless but after a steep start it is much more undulating. The elevation climbed works out roughly the same for both routes so as Glen More had been my original choice I stuck with that.

View from the car

After three stormy days the weather had calmed so much that it was blue skies above when I parked up. Don't mistake blue skies for warmth!

Just noticed one was a young stag, antlers just coming through

Just after donning my rucksack I was looking at the slopes for possible deer/sheep tracks through the lower terrain, which was a mixture of tussocks and boggy ground, when I spotted 4 well camouflaged deer looking down at me. Maybe it will be your tracks I follow as I ramble I thought to myself.

As usual I had just put my camera back in the pocket when a golden eagle appeared flying below the crags of the aptly named Creag na h-lolaire. But sods law whilst getting out my camera it disappeared behind the hill.

After that start I was optimistic for a good wildlife day as I set off amidst the tussocks finding a flattened thin track. Probably both a water course and deer track, certainly wet underfoot.

Lochs coming into view, glad of a breather

The next section is simply a bit of a head down slog. Trying to find the odd helpful track. Good to stop and look around because with the low harsh sunlight the views back were much better. 

The slopes were not too bad initially as I headed up to the first elevation of Maol Tobar Leac an t-Sagairt.

After that effort I had a steeper 100m climb up to the crags hiding Creag na h-lolaire where was pleased to find a gap between the crags, no scrambling required. However the eagle was still not showing.

Creag na h-lolaire ahead

That was the steep section over so from now on it was a series of elevations and descents. Still much huffing and puffing.

The terrain ahead was now very different. I was surprised to see so much stony and rocky ground with small patches of green grass separating the grey stone patches. All the way to the top the stones were a mixture of sizes. It seemed like this was an old quarry where a crusher had been smashing huge stones to smithereens resulting in all these different sized stones.

This section was also dotted with ponds which were alive with mating frogs. Their croaking carried far so I was alerted and wary as I approached them. I spent a bit of time watching them on both the in and out routes, always a special sight.

Looking for goats

The descent felt more than the map suggested before I walked across the poor terrain to next climb to Cnap nan Ghobar. Nice name but nope, no goats were spotted. Although there were plenty of little poop balls which could have been their droppings. It was quite steep at times and the crags although not large had to be given respect. 

Cairn with snow patches

No obvious breaches so a bit of zigzagging before getting to the top and I was happy to see the large cairn ahead of me.

I was about to give it a hug and a kiss when I caught sight of an even larger cairn some way behind. To say the least I was a bit deflated. After all this time I should know better.

Ben Buie summit the rounded cairn in the middle

Once again the descent felt more than it was in reality but it was a slow plod as I made my way the half a kilometre to the real summit which was all of 3 metres higher than where I had stood at the other cairn.

However, moaning aside, the real deal was well worth it as the views were spectacular. I had read that this is considered the best all round view from a summit on Mull, hard to disagree on a day like this.

Sadly the haze slightly took away from the sea views, more atmospheric. The Paps of Jura shimmered in the distance as did Colonsay.

Turning West and looking along Loch Scridain towards Iona, Tiree and Coll could just be see.

Looking away from the sunlight and closer Ben More was very dark, pocketed with snow patches along with a few of Mull’s Fiona's.

Ben Nevis

Beinn Sguilaird twin peaks and Cruachan on the right

Longer views had Ben Nevis and Ben Cruachan. Much more beside all these, yip truly a superb viewpoint.

Starting my descent with Creach Beinn on the right

My return was a backtrack of the ascent. I stopped and looked over to another Fiona, Creach Beinn. The SMC book suggests dropping down from here to the end of Loch Airde Glais and go up the flanks from there. Not a chance that I would do that.

Near the frog ponds a Snipe burst out from some tussocks zig zagging away from me in the direction of Ben More.

Nice view of two of the lochs

I can see my car but much steeper than it looks. Pointed peak another Fiona, BeinnTalaidh

It was not until the descent that I realised just how steep it was from Creag na h-lolaire back to the car. But from up here the three lochs looked looked ideal for a days trout fishing, need to explore that option. There is a Scottish Hill Tracks route (287) from Loch Buie to Salen that incorporates these lochs on the route. If you had two cars it would be a nice one to do from Loch Buie to the start of my walk.

A young immature White Tailed Eagle

And then it appeared out of nowhere, what a sight, a White Tailed Eagle on consecutive days what a bonus.

Those views and wildlife sightings made the rough ground slog well worth it.

Ascent: 696m

Distance: 8.3k

Time: 4.06

Wildlife: Snipe; Red deer; Golden eagle; Meadow Pipit; Raven; Common Frog