Where did the sun go? A damp ramble.....Carn na Coinnich

Hill: Carn na Coinnich (Hill of the moss)

Type: Fiona

Height: 673m

It’s Scotland so the recent spell of a few days of good weather was due to end and today was that day.

Back into beautiful Strathconon hoping not to meet any timber lorries on this very narrow at times single track as I drove to the start. Success.

Burn fairly dry but still a scenic spot

I made an early start hoping to miss the start of the rain but just as I closed my boot I felt and heard the first raindrops, just my luck.

Within minutes of the start I had my highlight of the day. A Merlin was chasing a Meadow Pipit, high speed manoeuvres. They disappeared into a copse so I know not the outcome. But for me it was my first sighting of a Merlin for years so a cracking start.

Out of Jubilee Wood into the smir

I reached Jubilee wood where my track continued through and beyond to meet up with the other alternative starting point at Dalbreac. I nearly visited on the descent more of this later.

Just before joining the main track I surprised a solo stag sporting its velvet clad antlers. I reckon from its size that it was a youngster.

The forecast said showers but this was proper rain and it continued falling almost all the way to the top. More surprising was the strength of the wind which was in my face, the joys.

There is an option for the young and/or fit to go straight up the side of Creag Ghaineamhach and do an undulating ridge walk. As I am neither and with the weather being yuk I opted for the long plod up the estate track. With hindsight it could have been a bike/hike.

On the estate track heading for the low point on the left

At least due to the distance the gradient was in my favour apart from one short but steep section. These stony estate tracks are sore on the feet but with the rubbish terrain either side it had to be stuck with. Some reports mentioned awkward burn crossings but these were not an issue today.

On a regular basis I spotted small herds of red deer, I wish I could cover the terrain as easily as them.

One report mentioned cutting off at an ATV track and following this across the moor. Even with the rain and my head more down than up I managed to avoid walking past, a good spot as easy to miss.

It turned out to be a good move even though it was very boggy in places. The track amazingly also disappeared at times. How can a heavy vehicles tracks that churns up the soft ground disappear, no idea but it happened. On the track I clearly walked close to a Golden Plovers nest as both birds were alarm calling and diving close but never that close.

The last post with the top in sight

Onwards and upwards on the muddy track at times heading for the wooden marker stakes as well as following the tracks when obvious.

It flattened out where I spotted what I thought was a trig but I also thought that it seemed too close.

As it turned out it was indeed the top and I had even more fortune as the ATV track went all the way to the top. Great as the surrounding moor was not that pleasant. I was so glad I did not go the ridge route as it would have meant a long hike across very poor terrain.

View from summit looking towards the Orrin reservoir

Despite the low clouds and grey skies the views were atmospheric enough to have been worth the effort.

The SMC book suggests completing Meall nan Damh as well but it has subsequently been ratified that Coinnich is the true Fiona and the OS map has Damh at 2 metres lower. So with the poor weather and the terrain I passed on that opportunity to extend my ramble.

Looking back Loch Gruamach and Loch an Daimh Ghlais. Ideal for wild swimming if your into that sort of thing.

Zoomed in to the Strathconon Corbetts

Suddenly the wind ramped up considerably so time to head back. It was really strong and glad it was mainly back to side so easier going. On the descent I was missing the ATV track much more than the ascent, properly relying on heading for those wooden markers to get back on track.

Pleasant view back into Strathconon

Back on the track it was sheltered so I was in no hurry, content to stop and take in the views, try and name those hills in view etc. Hood up and down heavy showers at times.

Meadow Pipit

Strathconon Corbetts maybe later in the year

I was so engrossed in the wildlife and the surrounding hills that when I spotted a roof top not that far away I pulled up. I had walked past my turn off. I could have continued to the village and road walked back but it was easier and safer to backtrack.

Jubilee Wood

I was soon looking down onto Jubilee Wood. It was in a sorry state and if it was planted for the Jubilee it has not fared we. A cuckoo called from the outskirts, not the first heard today but I could not spot it.

Finally back to the car as the wind blew even stronger wow where has this weather front come from.

Despite the weather it was an enjoyable ramble but the sighting of the Merlin made my day.

Ascent: 635m

Distance: 12.5km

Time: 4.15

Wildlife: Merlin; Red Deer; Meadow Pipit; Golden Plover; Cuckoo; Yellowhammer;

Mainly pathless grassy slopes with the reward of excellent views..... Meall na Faochaig

 Hill: Meall na Faochaig (Hill of the shell or spiral)

Type: Fiona

Height: 677m

I had an early start as the forecast was for the warmest day of the week and although this is not a mega ramble I wanted up and down before the highest temperatures kicked in.

It is never a hardship to drive through Strathconon hemmed in by hills with a couple of lochs alongside and fantastic views much of the time. But also keeping an eye out for cars suddenly appearing on the very narrow single trek road, early morning so mainly parents taking their kids to meet the school bus.

Parked up at the usual spot beside the River Meig and walked along the road to the start of the hill track. The cows in the nearby with their small calves were giving me the hard stare, unblinking, they would make good poker players.

It was good to have a track to make the initial ascent as I had had a poor sleep and was feeling leggy so better to have a track before the cross country ascent.

The views were already good as I ascended the lower slopes but some fairly fresh cow droppings kept me on constant lookout. The track is presumably a maintenance track for some small masts further on. A snipe burst out of its track side cover only metres before I approached, zig zagging at rocket pace but not alarm calling. A solo red deer hind watched me before wandering off, it definitely was faster going uphill than me.

The initial zig lasted longer than expected before it became the zag. I followed it for a few minutes before deciding to start the pathless cross country slog.

I was not at my best so this was a slow ascent picking out the grassy sections to make it a bit easier. Rare for me I was following my heart rate and taking a short pause when it was getting close to what I used as my limit.

I regularly spotted small groups of red deer dotted about the landscape but never larger than half a dozen of them.

This was another grassy hill with minimal forward views so when you thought you were getting to the highpoint a higher one appeared behind it. Sorry no snaps of this uphill slog as the two I took had large sun flares.

After the steep slog I started to contour towards a high point of the ridge where I had spotted the fence line that I wanted to follow to the top.

When I crested the ridge I was rewarded with excellent views on all sides but the way ahead was a bit rough.

I followed the dilapidated fence, ironic I thought, who was the most dilapidated today, me or the fence?

One of the hinds has spotted me

Not the easiest terrain so a bit of meandering to walk on the better ground. Spotted a pair of red deer standing in a peat hag, again holding their ground until the last minute.

Looking back the real top gone too far I blame the peat hagged terrain

I had spotted a rocky outcrop which looked like the high point so headed for that. When I stood at it pleased to have reached the summit I looked back at noticed a higher pointed rock when it dawned that I had walked past the true top.

More peat hag dodging as I worked my way back to the true summit.

Time to relax at the summit and take in the 360deg views, this really is a top all encompassing viewing hill.

View across to the Strathfarrer Munros with Mheadhoin in foreground

Achnasheen sat below the Munro of Fionn Beinn whose shape is much more attractive than from ground level. I could see the Fiona of Beinn Mheadhoin with the background of the Strathfarrer Munros. Less snow on them than the my last sighting.

My descent started looking over to Torridon, not bad at all.

I had a cracking view down into scenic Gleann Meinich, an interesting name seems germanic to me but probably wrong. Across the glen was the prominent craggy Creag Ghlas where I knew an eagles eyrie was located but sadly none were spotted today. To its right the Corbett of Meall nan Eun in the foreground and its partner Sgurr a’ Mhuilinn sitting behind, also accessed from Strathconon, on my to-do list.

Just getting a view of Loch Meig

On my drive in I had spotted cattle on the possible descent route so I decided to play safe and just return the same way.

There were about half a dozen goats on the hill

I took a more direct line which was rougher going but manageable although my dodgy knee started feeling it. Obviously hoping it would not blow so I took it easier going descending via the non heather patches.

On the zag looking towards Loch Beannacharain & Glencarron beyond

Enjoyed the views as I descended but the heat had ramped up considerably so I was constantly hydrating as it I was slightly uncomfortable with the long trousers on resulting in a bit of overheating.

Walked past the coos with their even more evil stares and glad to get back to the car to get some shorts on and cool down a bit.

Another ramble with superb views up top but glorious scenery from the start so one to be recommended but save it for a good viewing day. 

Ascent: 546m

Distance: 7.2km

Time: 3.16

Wildlife: Snipe; Meadow Pipit; Raven; Red Deer; Wheatear; Common Lizard;

Watch out for the drop.....Carnan Cruithneachd

Hill: Carnan Cruithneachd (Hill of the Picts)

Type: Fiona

Height: 729m

The forecast indicated that today was to be the only fully dry day of our weeks break. So a pretty please to the good lady and I was given permission to ramble. So I headed for this nearby Fiona which I thought would be a quickie. An early start but as it turned out the ramble took an hour longer than I envisaged.

A beautiful morning when I parked up at the Mountain Rescue centre. That was an error as I could have gone a bit further and parked at the outdoor centre which would have saved me half an hour of road tramping.

An encouraging start when I heard the first of many cuckoos as I laced my boots, a smile brought to my face. I know some see them as parasites due to laying eggs in other birds nests but I find them remarkable and as said who doesn’t like the call of the male cuckoo. As an aside would you recognise the females call?

Before long I spotted the first of many small red deer herds on the flanks of the Corbett Sgurr an Airgid.

There were more people on the walk in than I expected. I knew of the 2 nearby Munros and the long distance route to Glen Affric. But what I didn't realise was that my walk in was also an option for Cape Wrath Way walkers. I spoke to a few of them en route, another reason for taking longer and surprisingly all bar one English guy were foreigners.

The initial stages had the bulky Munro of A’ Ghias-bheinn directly in my vision. At first I thought this was my target but soon realised my error and mine was still a long way away.

Target in the distance

The track split and I almost made the rookie error of not concentrating taking in the surroundings and following the people in front who were Munro baggers.

But I remembered I had to take the left fork which led to woods and across a well constructed bridge before hitting another tree plantation. A heavy shower ended the fully dry day prediction but thankfully it only lasted a few minutes. Although I did see many showers passing by on either side. When I returned the good lady commented that it must have been horrendous in that hail storm, another break as it did not hit me.

Another split in the trail but the left one was my possible descent route, at this stage I had not fully decided.

I went up to the side of the heather on the right

So up the right hand track until clear of the woods where a single narrow track steeply wound its way up onto the moor in short time. Heavy breathing time. I caught up with more walkers who were on yet another option, this is also the track to the Falls of Glomach.

The SMC book’s route was to follow this track to the high point. But this looked a long way away and I knew that the summit was almost a 90deg turn straight up.

Looked ok from here

So one of those last minute decisions was made and I went straight up. The initial slopes were steep but easy going on the good short grassy sections between the heather. But then the going got much tougher. 60deg slopes meant I was facing right into it and for about 30 metres I was on my knees at times, using the heather to hand pull me up.

Gradient eased and as I looked back down it was certainly steeper than it looked from below. Easier going but of course 3 false ridge tops before I got to my high point and had a view of the hill.

Thankfully I can see it

Still a lot of moor to cross to get there

It was probably about 2 kilometres away but it looked further across the undulating peat hagged moor. The going was fairly straightforward but it was very undulating, quite a few exhales as I crested one height to drop quite a bit before repeating a few times.

Got to the base and although it is craggy there were plenty of grassy rakes to evade them. As said plenty of red deer around and 3 let me get really close to them before moving off.

Summit in view

Puffing a bit I wound my way up to the high point. When I reached the top I got a fright as I glanced down to my left and realised it was a precipitous drop all the way all the way down to the River Elchaig. Wow a real vertigo moment, I had not expected that and glad I had arrived with full visibility and not in cloud, one step too far! Later I was speaking to an ex Mountain Rescue guy who said there had been fatalities from there.

The views were really superb in all directions so it was time for a seat and enjoy my mini pork pies and take it all in. These moments are what the slog is all about, well worth it.

Heading for the trees to the right

Finally time to descend and I opted for the circular descent as I could see the ATV track coming out of the woods. Tramped over the moorland to the track which was rough in places but better than the hags.

Relief no fence to climb

From the ascent I knew the plantation was enclosed by a deer fence so my only concern was if there was a locked gate but it was wide open. In the forest the track was extremely steep covered in stones and rocks so sliding as it was like walking on marbles so it was slow progress.

Finally back on the out route which somehow felt longer. Although I have heard quite a few Cuckoos this year I have not yet snapped one. At a clearing one was calling loudly. On the slopes there were only five small trees and patience paid off when I spotted it. Got my camera out and as I woke it up I heard a bleep, the battery had died.

So apart from the no cuckoo snap it was a good ramble. The gradients tested my fitness but I passed although I know it was at my pace, more comfortable with that now than trying to keep up with faster walkers, old age does not come without some drawbacks.

Back at the car more yacking with other walkers. I think chatting too often was my other half hour lost lol.

Ascent: 820m

Distance: 16.9km

Time: 5.23

Wildlife: Red Deer; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Cuckoo; Chaffinch; Coal Tit; Mistle Thrush; Wild Goats;

The hill on the middle of the moor with fantastic views.....Stob na Cruaiche

Hill: Stob na Cruaiche (Stub of the heap) (A’Chruach) (The heap)

Type: Fiona

Height: 739m

After some internal debate I decided to make this a linear bike/hike rather than a ridge circular. The main factor was that the weather was due to worsen, heavy rain, just after lunchtime and I had minimal wet gear with me.

Parked up at Rannoch Station with more blue sky above than expected. My 1^st issue was getting the bike through the gate at the railway. More than wide enough for a walker but very tight for a heavy MTB. Eventually I won the battle but spoiled the start.

The cycle was only 2 miles but even this involved a couple of wrong turns before I reached the timber lorries turning spot.

Bike was tied to a tree in clear view of anyone coming along the track but little other option. Then walked back past the turning circle where I found the ATV track.

It was a steep wee start but for a kilometre or so it is a wet boggy quagmire with much sideways jumping to stay on some dry bits. It has been reinforced in the past with wood slats and planking but much of that has been broken/eroded.

However it did not take long to break the treeline and get out onto the moor and onto a ‘slightly better’ ATV track, note the wording.

I was aware that the ATV had a deviation on my right and that this should not be missed or it was a long slog through pathless peat bogs.

A couple of times I thought I had spotted it but they soon turned back to the main track just avoiding more bog.

Finally another faint track went right which I followed and this time it was the real deal. The gradient was now super good, a long slow ascent. Of course the track was lost and then re-found but overall it was good going, soft underfoot, a nice change.

I had my eye on a single point that looked like a summit trig. Motivation works differently for everybody but the way my mind works I was happy to focus on this as the summit even though I knew it certainly wasn’t. But it worked until I reached it, which of course was not a trig but a slim pointed rock, and then had to refocus on another target.

The ATV track largely evaded the peat hags which was a good thing as the few encountered were deep trenches.

Plus this route which mainly headed west gave great views ahead of the remote water potted landscape of Rannoch moor along with the spectacular Black Mount and Glencoe Munros, more wow moments.

The final section twisted and turned where I was now on a steeper gradient to the summit but all in all still great going.

Before long the trig was reached. Yet another occasion where a relatively infrequently walked hill provides fantastic views due to its stand alone position.

The viewpoint has to cover at least 30 Munros as well as everything else.

Orchy/Glencoe/Nevis/Corrour/Alder

Missed by many a bagger but that is their loss, this stand alone peak is a top notch viewing point.

A simple return by the same route. The terrain was too rough for me to consider an alternative tramp. I still enjoyed great views over Rannoch Moor.

Getting lower down the Lochs of Rannoch, Eigheach & Laidon came into view shimmering in the harsh light. The weather was changing as I watched clouds on my left swiftly running past depositing rain/sleet but not on me today.

Even the muddy track in the woods seemed more straightforward than the ascent.

Bike still attached to the tree so all that was left was the short cycle and another battle with the kissing gate. During the struggle I thought that I was going to have to remove the front wheel at one point to get it through, the joys.

Because of the hills remoteness I was very surprised by the lack of birdlife in both the forest and on the moor. Even the Pipits and Skylark seen were less than the fingers on one hand. Plover & Grouse one spot each. Zero raptors or corvids, when was the last time I did not see a Raven on a remote moor, not often.

The sun had come back out with warmth so wandered to the station tearoom to find that they would not serve me if I wanted to sit outdoors, I would have to use the take away facilities, tourism in Scotland!!

Ascent: 570m

Distance: 14.5km

Time: 3.32

Wildlife: Coal Tit; Great Tit; Red Grouse; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Golden Plover;