One hundred up in all categories and what a bonus .....Beinn Bheag (Cowal)

Hill: Beinn Bheag (Cowal) (Little mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 618m

I was fingertips away with only 1 hill left to achieve my walking target of at least 100 hills in each category. My last bag had to be a Fiona/Graham hill. I had four options that I wanted to climb on my to-do list but all meant a bit of a travel. The forecast for the next couple of days had improved so I decided to get the target out of my mind and get something climbed.

There were some up Crianlarich area but I decided to keep it reasonably local and do one of my remaining Cowal ones.

So up early, excited and off to the ferry. Lengthy roadworks meant that as I arrived I just missed a ferry as it pulled away, bit hacked off but at least 1^st car on the next one.

This hill can be added on to Cowal’s biggest hill, Beinn Mhor, which I did earlier in the year but for me it was too tough and a logistical problem. But as a single hill it had promise. Walkhighlands describes it is an outpost of Beinn Ruadh which is a bit odd as a loch separates them and Beinn Mhor is its walking partner, but I am no geologist, so just climb it.

Apart from linking with Beinn Mhor there are a few other options but by far this one was the most appealing for me.

Parked at Glenbrantner to spot signs that a number of routes were closed due to ‘road repairs’. This is an area of massive forestry workings but private vehicles, I don't think so.

My arty photo of the day from the starting point

So it was that hopefully my ramble began, if I was to be caught up by this stop notice I would no doubt find out.

3 mile road with another Fiona, Creag Tharsuinn, pointed one ahead

As the farm is neared there are three track options, today I wanted the middle one. To start it is just under a 3 mile walk up a hard packed forestry road as wide as my street. The trees don't hem in initially so decent views for about a mile. Soon after I spotted a shape on the track, slightly round a bend. It had also spotted me, a red deer hind enjoying the grass verges, who looked disdainfully at me before elegantly walked back into the trees.

U bend and memorable moment coming up

I reached the third cut off to the left after almost an hour and now the climbing started, initially still on a forest road.

Then my magic moment. I was watching my footing when I spotted movement ahead. About 20 yards away, crossing the road was a Pine Martin. It wasn't hurried, it casually walked from the trees on my right to the left. I have never had a verified sighting so it was one of my last bucket list wildlife items. It appeared bigger than I imagined with a full lush brown coat. By the time I got my camera out it had gone. I walked to the spot and looked into the dense trees but no chance, probably up a tree looking at me. Still whatever happened that was my day made.

I was now at the 3 roads junction and according to reports there should be a short cut, a grassy track and there it was, overgrown but it was there, what would it be like higher?

A lot boggier than it looks

Opens out at times

I decided to follow it and it got me to where I wanted to be. It is overgrown and very wet and/or boggy in stages. At times a judgement call is required as to where the path goes, but instinct took over and did not let me down.

It was steady climbing and I could see with the light that I was about to break the treeline but just before I did I met the inevitable storm tree destruction blocking the path. An easy but muddy bypass. Interestingly from the prints in the mud the deer used this bypass too.

That was the easy bit of the ramble over, the path ends and the final ascent begins.

The top was circa 200m of ascent from here and I had a read a previous report that it was straightforward. Looking from here I could see that whilst it was not going to be overly difficult it was not going to be straightforward.

The early sections were very steep, wet and boggy. Streams running everywhere including many hidden water sections deep cut and hidden by the long grass.

That final lump is the top

After that the amount of cotton grass indicated how wet the remainder of the ascent would be. Some very steep short but all hands on sections along with solid deer grass clumps, not quite full on Dumfries & Galloway tussocks but still the new boys on the block, a bit of attitude.

I found some old iron fence posts which I followed for a bit but I found a slightly less direct ascent, still wet and boggy.

Finally I reached the top section, quite dramatic fall offs to my left so carefully with the satrong winds headed to the highest outcrop. A typical Fiona/Graham nothing to recognize the top. The trig is on the Graham Top, over towards Cruach Bhudhie, I could see it but the top is unnamed on my map.

Loch Eck and I think Ben Lui in the distance

The summit is the crag on right, Beinn Mhor on its left

Looking over Creag Tharsuinn to the Paps of Jura

The views were really much better than they should have been for this time of year. I could see long distances due to the clod clear air, haw’d on a minute this is June it should be short distance hazy views. Still it was a gift worth taking, quite spectacular 360 degree views. Looking from here the climb/descent/reascent to Beinn Mhor looked very hard work, glad I stuck to my plan.

The descent back to the trees with Cruach Bhuidhe behind

After a lunch stop taking it all in, still cold winds, I simply retraced my steps and without any issues got back to the car.

For me it was a fantastic day as I had achieved my minimum 100 ascents in Munros, Corbetts, Fiona/Grahams, Sub2k’s and the full Donalds listing. I had great views but the Pine Martin will be the thing that sticks in my memory for many years to come.

Ascent: 635m

Distance: 15.3km

Time: 4.15

Wildlife: PINE MARTIN; Red Squirrel; Red deer hind; Gold ringed dragonfly; Willow Warbler; Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Wren; Chiffchaff;

A special day on a Cowal Fiona.....Beinn Ruadh

Hill: Beinn Ruadh (Red mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 664m

I am focusing on my Fiona target before the weather turns so whilst the dry weather was around it was another trip across the water to bag another of the Cowal Fiona's.

Beinn Ruadh seemed the most straightforward of these for a day trip. It is mainly steep moorland hills with forestry issues that I had left on Cowal so options limited. There are 2 main routes, the most common appears to be the very steep route from Inverchapel. But for the sake of 10 minutes more driving I opted for the longer ramble starting from about ¾ mile up the turn off at Whistlefield, indeed you could start from the Forestry Commission sign at Whistlefield and add a couple of miles to the walk.

The forecast was for another clear day and it was just that on the mainland. However off the ferry and I was into fog. I knew the walk had about 30 minutes of forestry walking so decided to start it and assess conditions once I hit the moor proper.

Sign saying route will be closed when work starts

Take the right turn

There is enough space for one car without blocking access across from the start. Crossed the icy road where a sign stated that work would be starting soon and this route would be closed. It might not affect the main track from Whistlefield which this joins.

Another very cold day, well wrapped up from the start where a short trek to meet the main track which you continue with until a fork in the track where I went right.

As far as forestry sections go this was a more pleasant one. Soft underfoot, a good gradient, plenty of gaps so did not feel hemmed in. Plus there was a huge flock of goldcrests all the way up, occasionally seen but mainly heard their oh so soft calling, very relaxing sound.

Glad I found this even for the short section

Another Fiona Beinn Bheag

Panoramic view

Not much snow but the ground was frozen solid it was bitter, spikes would have helped at times

I reached the moor where I was now above the fog with some super inversion views. There is a broken fence which I originally stayed nearside but the going was awful. Crossed over to find an old ATV track which was a godsend.

This took me up to the west of Sligrachan Hill, easier going but all water was frozen solid so detours into the tussocks frequently required as no spikes with me.

At this point I was at circa 530m and felt that I had done all the hard work but oh no the slog is just beginning.

I knew this was a longer route but I had not done my homework and studied the terrain well enough. I thought it looked pretty flat on the map but there were as many ups and downs as I have had on a hill for yonks. They might only have been 50-80 metres but they took their toll as the terrain was pure tussocky moorland. my calves were a tad sore.

There were some ATV tracks but mostly deer tracks. Surprisingly good in places before abruptly disappearing, where did they go?

I almost gave up when another lump appeared in fron of me with steep craggy ground at the top. I initially started to climb but this was silly so inched my way around where it became a grassy gully, still steep deep grass, more moaning.

You can go either side of the big lump ahead, not the top I wanted

Then you have to descend and see this, still not the top

After getting up drop down and yet another wee lump and still not the top

Yet another down and reascent you guessed still not the top

Finally that is it in the distance

Having dragged myself up there was yet another higher lump in the distance. Maybe only 20-30 metres higher but it looked like Everest.

Full ridge across the loch, 2 Fionas, Beinn Mhor & Bheag

Snow shower over Ben Lomond I think

The views were clear across to the Arrochar tops and maybe Ben Lomond? Nearby the fog still hung around but the inversion views superb.

My brocken spectre

On my way down I encountered my 1^st ever brocken spectre, all those years without seeing one I was well chuffed. At least I got the snaps before it disappeared, sharp they are not but it meant a lot.

More meandering around crags when I spotted movement on the crags away to my right. An animal, it moved quickly and low to the ground, I assumed fox but it looked black and its movement was more cat like. It had spotted me as It stopped and looked from behind a boulder. Too far away to be sure. Never saw it again but was that another 1^st?

Corbett of Beinn Bheula on right

Even with good light there are many hillocks and crags to navigate with some veery steep fall offs, grassy they may be but you could roll a long way. I would not like to do his on a bad weather day. At times I knew I was not on my outward track, too close to Loch Eck side but eventually I found the ATV track back to the forestry ascent.

Clouds clearing and Loch Eck looking smashing 

All in all a fine ramble with splendid inversion views but I suspect my Cowal Fiona bagging might end here.

Ascent: 721m

Distance: 10.7km

Time: 4.06

Wildlife: Sparrowhawk; Coal Tit; Goldcrest huge flock in forest; Fox or Big Cat!!

Worth the wood trudge for the views.....Cruach nan Capull

Cruach nan Capull (heap of the horses)

Type: Fiona

Height: 611m

A new wee ferry trip across the water for today's ramble. I cannot recall having used the Western Ferries from Gourock to Dunoon. I have used the CalMac version as a foot passenger but today the car was required to get to the hill.

One bizarre aspect of using Western is that is about half price if you buy a ticket at one of their agents rather than on the ferry. Booking online they post you tickets, no phone app, very outdated.

Snap from ferry approaching Dunoon

A short stop at the Coop in Wemyss Bay to get my tickets and pork pie, healthy walking food and before long I drove straight onto the ferry and was sailing. The weather was a brilliant blue sky but bitterly cold, -4deg when I started the car. A short romp to the front of the ferry then quickly back to the warmth of the car, was I really going up a hill?

A short 20 minute calm crossing after which I set off to Glen Lean. 

My target was Cruach nan Capull which has the distinction of being the most southerly Fiona in the Highlands. It doesn't really feel like the Highlands when I have just popped over from North Ayrshire/Inverclyde but that's maps for you. 

When I turned off the main road I was met by a big yellow sign, no entry, road closed ahead, at some bridge I knew not where. My app said 3.8 miles to start of walk so I risked it as I didn't have a plan B for today. My thinking was to get as close as possible and walk the rest. Thankfully when I parked up at the walk start near Corrachaive an bubbly young lady with a very unattractive dog told me that the road closure was a couple of miles further on.

Capull the lump behind

I climbed the gate and walked up another no entry track, forestry workings this time, but as the gate was locked and I could not hear any machinery so again took the risk.

This hill can be climbed from two sides and in retrospect the other option which is more common, might be longer but more straightforward.

A ramble of 3 sections. The 1^st was the hard packed forestry track silent apart from the number of ravens flying low and high. A report on Walkhighlands by JJ mentions a huge number, clearly a breeding hot spot. The track continues but go no further after the obvious quarry.

Ascend behind not in front of the quarry

The easiest obstacle comes 1st just to get you complacement 

Reached the quarry where stage 2 is encountered. The SMC book describes this as a wee jolly up a grassy track. Well not quite, you only find the track after scrambling up the steep side of the quarry and behind it is the track. 

Indeed this does take you up to roughly the 350m mark. What it doesn't tell you is that whatever storm has brought down a large number of trees all of which seem to have fallen across the track. Some you can climb over, some you have to go into the trees for a short detour and some much longer detours where you pray you will find the track again. Plus it was surprisingly dark on this blue sky day god knows what it would be like on a gloomy day.

What it also doesn't mention is that is at times it is not a path but a gloopy mud fest and I mean deep gloop which cannot be avoided. The track also takes some sharp bends, not always obvious as it is a mud fest until you realise you are definitely not on a track any more. So double back to find the bit you missed or just be frustrated and go home.

Near the treeline you just have to make a call where to leave the track and meander up and hope you get out. Phew, I did, but finding this on the way back was already bringing out negative thoughts, a worry!! My departure was earlier than the SMC book suggests but I had no confidence that the track was going much further and I could see light through the trees.

Pleased to exit the plantation wish I had remembered that tree as a marker when descending

Relieved to be out on the moor for Stage 3. It was rough, reed boggy but there was enough harder ground to let me head for Mid Hill, detouring round on my right where I found the old fence line that leads to the summit, eventually.

Contouring to the old fenceline

It goes up pointy bit on left as did I before heading for the gully

The broken fence goes directly up a steep face. I initially followed it then backed off as I was face in on icy stuff, on my own and not clever if I had a fall. I backed down and edged across where I went up the gully on my right. A stone erosion landslide chute made it much easier.

Reached the top of this and of course there is now the steepest section ahead, I was huffing and puffing away as I followed the fence higher and higher. This was the hardest bit physically and it was not until looking down when on the descent that I realised just how steep it was. Legs were pleased to reach the flattish ground where a 5 minute stroll to the single iron pole marked the summit. The glare from the low sun was blinding, glad I only had it for a short section.

View north up the Clyde

Ben Lomond and the Arrochar hills

South over Cumbrae and the Ayrshire hills beyond

West to the Paps of Jura

The views were outstanding but it was bitterly cold particularly as an unexpected strong breeze appeared. Feel like temperature was easily in minus figures.

Descent

Sgorach Mor the stumpy top across the glen

So back down the same way. I did find where I exited the trees but the section back to the track was not easy, minor memory jolts, this way or that, but with relief at one point I realised the mud I was on was the track I wanted.

The descent was less of an ordeal but I was still a happy chappie to reach the quarry.

The ramble felt a lot longer than the actual walking time but it was harder work than I expected. Fionas/Grahams do not give up their tick easily and I know that I will not be repeating that route ever again. And regarding the name of the hill, no I never saw any horses.

Now that I have sampled the short crossing I intend to have another trip or two across the water for my winter programme.

Ascent: 552m

Distance: 8.9km

Time: 3.12

Wildlife: Raven many different birds: Wren