Tuesday, 11 June 2013

Pitlochry to Killiecrankie via Craigower

This is an excellent walk that can be undertaken by most reasonably fit people. You can opt for just the Pitlochry - Craigower walk itself which is a very good stand alone walk with the advantage of the excellent views from Craigower, well worth the little effort. You can pick your starting point in Pitlochry giving yourself a couple of options. We opted to walk up to the village of Moulin first, the village has its own brewery.
Moulin Village Hall
 For some you might want to do this route in reverse which gives you the option of a welcoming beer at the end although it is fair to say that the Moulin brewed beer is not to everyone's taste but you will only know if you try it. Your other option is to go directly from Pitlochry to the golf course, cutting out the Moulin section.
Once in Moulin the signpost takes you along a back-road which leads you to the golf course. Keep your eyes open along this road as deer are frequent visitors to the tree edges. You also get good views of Ben Vrackie from here. 
Ben Vrackie from path
Follow the path which takes you partially through the golf course towards the tree line. This is a very interesting golf course, great views, plenty of up and down fairways, it looks fun to play. As you reach the treeline there is a cottage with an amazing garden, cultivated, but looks wild and natural. On our walk we watched two red squirrel play for over 5 minutes. My good lady said she thought she had seen a jay but by the time she told me it was gone, suspicious. Got a flashing glimpse of a crested tit, rare so nice to see plus numerous tits, chaffinches and wood pigeons.
The path follows the side of the golf course, climbing gently until you join the Craigower - Killiecrankie route, through the Tay Forest path. You know have a choice of detouring up to Craigower or going straight through to Killiecrankie. There really is no choice, Craigower is 407 metres and at this point you are about 270 metres so the short pull up for the views is a must do. 
You don't have to retrace your steps as there is a path down the other side to meet up with at the Pass of Killiecrankie. The steep climb is mainly through forest and the storm damage from last autumn is obvious with some mighty grand old trees destroyed, the power of nature. Look out for siskins on this stretch. Another option is to follow the forestry commission road but this is not nearly as scenic. Whichever way you take, when you get to the top of Craigower the views are fabulous. The old saying of you don't have to climb high to appreciate the views is appropriate here. From the viewpoint indicator you can clearly see Schiehallion, looking right up the Tummel and following the A9 north, stunning views of the Cairngorm national park site. But go to the westerly point and you get super views over Pitlochry to the south. You will also have noticed corrugated iron sheets dotted around in the grass. Do not lift these as breeding sites for adders among others.
We reversed back to the path and followed this along the forestry path, down under the A9 road bridge, literally, to join the path to Killiecrankie. You go past majestic trees, some that will be hundreds of years old, what sights have they seen in that time?
At Killiecrankie there is a visitor shop but make sure you go on a bit further and pop down to see the Soldiers Leap viewpoint. Surely fictitious when you see the chasm he allegedly jumped but who knows. 
Soldiers Leap
The previous time we visited this spot we were lucky enough to watch a salmon making fruitless attempts to jump the leap. Your heart went out to the salmon as surely it must be near the end of its epic journey, back to the place of its birth. The water was a swirling maelstrom and although we did not see it succeed I am sure it eventually found the strength to leap the barrier.
Now heading back to Pitlochry via the path alongside the River Garry, this is one of General Wades military roads. Entirely a forest walk now alongside the river gorge with its dramatic scenery, the walk continues down river until it tumbles into Loch Faskally. 
Wades road through the forest

River Garry
At Garry Bridge we could hear excited screams and when we spotted the bungee jumpers on the spars below the road bridge we knew why. I like outside sports but rather them than me. Just below the Clunie bridge we stopped at the Faskally fishery cafe where they were just placing a freshly made carrot cake on the counter, decision made. The slices were huge and delicious. Well we had walked a fair distance today.
Another mile saw us back in the centre of Pitlochry and time for a beer. If it is your only trip make sure to go to the dam and the salmon fish ladder, you never know your luck, around 5000 fish ascend each year.
Overall distance was just over 13 miles and a good day out. Well worth the effort if you are in the area.

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