Isle of Cumbrae Nov'13

Cumbrae from the approaching ferry

This magical island is easily in my top 10 of walks that I never tire of completing. I go over to Cumbrae once every 3 months or so for walking and the same for cycling, and hopefully will continue to do so for many years to come.
It all starts with a short ferry trip from Largs. The Calmac crossing only takes about 10 minutes but this is enough to get you away from the mainland, with that I'm on an island feeling, is it my holidays? The ferry crossing always brings a smile to my face along with the anticipation of the walk ahead. It is also a great island to cycle. The ferry carries a small number of cars as well as its footfall and runs every half an hour, sometimes more frequent in the high season. Keep a look out on the crossing for porpoises, I see them about every third trip but you have to look closely for movement as they glide the water and do not leap like dolphins.
The island of Cumbrae is roughly 10 miles around. You can extend the walk to around 15 miles which I shall explain later. This is a great island for birdwatchers, particularly around its coastline, nut look inland as well.

Largs from Cumbrae ferry side

You can read elsewhere in great detail the history of the islands (there is Little Cumbrae as well). Christianity played a big role as well as the Vikings who reputably were based here before the battle of Largs.

The tranquil water in one of the many bays

There is a bus that meets the ferry to take people to Millport which is in the south of the island and its population hub. The bus does not do a circular route of the island so be wary if walking or cycling if your fitness is not up to it. I normally walk Cumbrae in an anti clockwise direction. The east side of the island is the calmest and it is nice to look back at the mainland. A short walk immediately gives you a sample of the tremendous views that you will get. You can follow the line of the mainland, turn slightly and you see the Dunoon peninsula and further left looking up Loch Striven into Argyll. One more look left and Rothesay comes into view. All of these with the background of majestic hills and mountains.
The great thing about this island is the peace and tranquility you get particularly at this time of the year. For about half an hour I did not see another person and until I got nearer Millport lucky if I saw half a dozen people in total. An island to yourself.
Having walked the top of the island you have the long (3 mile stretch) passing alongside Fintry Bay where in high season a tearoom is open.

You can just see the ferry approaching Rothesay

On this stretch you have good views across to Rothesay, Mount Stuart etc. Unfortunately it does block your view of the Kintyre peninsula beyond but you can get that if you climb a short distance, more of which later.
The bird-life was reasonable today, the main sea birds are the eiders with their unmistakable calls echoing across the water. Other ducks today included many mallards and a group of wigeon. Diving cormorant and shags at sea along with a grey seal which I spent 10 minutes watching it watching me. Its snout would just peak out of the waves, then the head, have a look at me and slip under the water. 30 seconds or so later the same procedure was repeated in a slightly different position. Great fun. Redshank, rock pippets and a nice shore lark all along this stretch. On this side if you do not look inland you might miss the Indians face which is painted on the natural rock formation. It is said that this was painted in the 1920's and possibly the eyes were used as a line of sight by boats but still an unusual sighting. It obviously gets touched up from time to time.

On the left Rothesay, just off centre Loch Striven

Looking north up the Firth of Clyde, Arrochar alps in the distance

A few hundred yards past the Fintry Bay tearoom you have a choice, you can either continue to walk the shoreline road taking you round the south westerly point of the island or you follow the sign to the left taking you over the hill to Millport. The advantage of this is that for a little effort the views are wonderful and you get a different feel for the island, not just the shoreline perspective. I have watched ravens tumble in the sky at this point plus last spring I spooked a few hundred greylag geese into a noisy flight, their grazing over for this trip. Also be on the lookout for cattle grazing but this is a rare occurrence. There are great panoramic views from this spot to the north, west and south. To the easy you are looking inland to the islands centre with the golf course in view, very much an up and downhill course.

The mountains of Arran in the background

At the top of this detour another choice, follow the path back down the hillside to Sheriff's Port to continue your coastal route or walk down to the golf course and you are a 10 minute stroll into Millport and its bay. Sadly Millport itself is showing signs of decline. Once a thriving holiday centre it can still have its moments of population explosion in the summer, with day trippers in particular swelling the numbers but at this time of the year it is very quiet. There are a couple of places for food if you want to sit in, although you have a lot more choice in the high season. I note 2 of the pubs are up for sale as well as a few shops, business not so good. For myself a hot Cumbrae pasty out of the butchers and a seat on the shore-front to watch the seals playing in the water was my lunch. There are a few boats in the bay, mostly tied up but not much activity. You can see from the photo above that the lens gives the impression of Arran being right behind the bay when in reality it is about 15 miles across the water.

Millport Bay looking east

Millport bay looking west

After lunch and leaving nothing for the herring gull which stalked my seat I had some options. In the past I have continued the coastal walk round the other side of the island and back to the ferry, this is about 10 miles in total. At this point you can also just take the bus back to the ferry if you have had enough for the day. However I set off inland to climb the short hill to the Glaidstone, a natural stone. You set off up the road past the Cathedral and follow the route uphill. It gives the lungs a stretch but once again you get a different perspective of the island.

View from Glaid stone north, Ben Lomond with its snow covered top on the left

This is the islands highest point at 127 metres so not exactly Munro bashing but as always the views are worth it. There is a direction indicator at this point confirming all you can see in each direction, which on a clear viewing day is a long way in all directions.
I am now following a road winding its way back downhill heading towards the ferry. There is a junction which gives you the choice of going back to Millport. If you opt for this route and then continue the coastal walk you will have about a 16 mile walk.
But for me today, the planter tendon is aching so its ferry bound. Once again a day that I thoroughly enjoyed, this island never fails me. And just as I hit the shoreline a flock of lapwings arrived, a beautiful bird but sadly becoming rare and it is a few years since I saw a flock this large. Thanks Cumbrae.