Cycling South Uist - Eriskay

When we planned to take a holiday in South Uist one of my must do objectives was to cycle from our cottage in South Uist across the causeway to the historic island of Eriskay. On the chosen day the weather was mixed but the forecast was for a dry but breezy day so oft we went. Mrs B went by car. The ride was not really a long one, around 30 miles in total, but it was one that I was really looking forward to. The islands have only 1 direct road, almost all single track with passing places but in better condition than many roads where I live. It would be interesting to see how drivers reacted if they caught up with me on a stretch out-with the passing places. Would they sit and wait as they would a car or would they try and squeeze me? I will reveal all at the end of the blog but needless to say I survived.
The main area of population in the south that I go through is Dalabrog (Daliburgh) where there is the Borrodale hotel (good beer and food) and a Co-op store. I wish my local Co-op sold the fresh crab claws you get here, a packet of these with a seafood dip are just heaven. It also has a top class fish & chippie (combined with petrol station) where we had a very tasty, fresh and large portion of haddock and chips.
These roads are fairly straight and as there are next to no trees you see a long way ahead of you. I cycle past Loch Dun na Cille where I had some great brown trout fishing, my best was a 1.5lb fish but from some of the shapes that cruised by there are much larger fish here. It is hard walking around the loch but great fishing.
When you reach the bottom of the island the road forks left taking you along the coast to the causeway via West & East Kilbride. If at the fork you go straight ahead you will come to Polochar Inn, a fantastic seafood restaurant with a bar and outside seating if the weather is good. We had the best fresh hand dived scallops ever in here. This is where the Barra ferry used to leave before Eriskay became the location.
As you go along the coast keep your eyes on the coastline and you might get lucky and spot an otter. There is a small jetty before the causeway. If you are here at the right time a local fisherman might be unloading his catch and you could get to buy some prawns etc from him. You are now at the causeway. This impressive 2 lane road was opened in 2002 and gave the island of Eriskay an economic lifeline. Previously the only access was by small boat/ferry and needless to say the causeway has sharply increased the number of visitors and to an extent, residents.
I really enjoyed my cycles across the causeway, there is a nice sense of adventure. Looking forward to Eriskay on the way over and to the hills of South Uist on the way back.
The road has been relatively flat but the next stretch between the causeway and the ferry terminal gives you a little climbing to get the lungs going and the scenery does become more interesting.

 Eriskay is famous as the island where the ship SS Politician ran aground with its cargo of whisky. Needless to say the islanders managed to take full advantage of its misfortune and cargo. You can read the full story in Compton MacKenzie's book 'Whisky Galore', it was also made into a film. 
The road soon comes into Balla where there is a pub named after the ship. There is a small store here as well for some provisions.
The road now climbs a little again, look out for the shrine on your left, and then you get a great vista. You are looking down onto the scenic Eriskay beach and the ferry terminal. 

Looking out to sea you look back on South Uist as well as the island of Barra. To your rear you have some typical rugged hills.
The magnificent beach is said to be the place that Bonnie Prince Charlie took his first steps on Scottish soil along with his half a dozen or so followers. It is said that he was told to go home by the locals he met. He did not and this was the forerunner of the Jacobite rebellion that was a disaster for the Scots resulting in amongst other things the banning of the wearing of tartan.
Nobody is quite sure whether Charlie was being encouraged by the French as relationships between the French and the English were not at their best during this period.
It is quite a feeling to know that you are standing on such a historical location and that apart from the the modern houses and the new ferry jetty much else would have looked and felt the same.






The small beach is a spectacular white sand. When we arrived there was no-one else around, quite beautiful and peaceful. We left the bike at the ferry and walked the beach. The amount and variety of seashells were tremendous the likes of which I have not seen for years. Wild yellow iris grow around the fringes and the machair grass was full of colour. It is said that the Bonnie Prince brought some seeds with him and that a pink flower in the grasses is possibly a descent of these seeds.

If you come to Eriskay you must walk the beach and even better, if the weather is in your favour, make a day of it, sunbathe and picnic. What a perfect place to chill out.

 It was now time to make the return journey which was almost a straight route return. I did take a short detour on Eriskay down to Acarsaid which has a small sheltered harbour. The harbour area was packed with creels but no boats or activity was taking place when I was there.

I cycled back to the causeway where I stopped on the Eriskay side at the stone commemorating the causeways opening. I spent some time at the fine picnic spot beside it. The views here are superb, another tranquil spot to let time flow by.

Back on South Uist I spot a tour bus in the distance and decide to wait at the passing spot even though I would have been half way down the road and would have had the right of way. Turned out it was German tour bus and no acknowledgement came from the driver that I had given him his turn. Apart from that prat and the occasional tourist prat most people treated me as a car and waited at the passing areas, a big thanks to them. To the others engage your brain please.
On the way back I took a slight detour to bring me round the back of Loch Dun na Cille but that was it for today's bike ride.
A trip I had looked forward to and was certainly not disappointed, apart from no otters once again.
As always time to think about that pint, it has been earned today.