Ayrshire Coastal Path Glenapp - Ballantrae

Now that the northern stretch has been completed it is time to tick off the remaining southern legs. I had originally planned to do this on Wednesday when, as it turned out, the clear air day would have been perfect but I had to delay a couple of days and didn't think the views would be as good. On the journey down the clouds were ominous but thankfully the forecast came good and it brightened up. I was using the bus today so I had accepted that I could only do the shortish 1st leg in the time I had available. It turned out that I then had another decision to make as on the journey I got a call telling me I was baby sitting that night and Mrs was out at 7pm!! The guide suggests between 4 and 4.30 mins for the walk. In 3 hours time I could get a bus at Ballantrae, the next one 2 hours later. Lets see how the 1st hour goes then decide.

Glenapp Kirk

The bus dropped me off at Glenapp Kirk and just as well I asked a fellow passenger sitting near me when we would reach Glenapp village. He laughed and said 'now' and pressed the stop button. Just as well as despite saying to the driver where I wanted off, he would have sped past, the village being the kirk and a couple of houses without a sign.
The kirk is reputed to be one of the smallest in Scotland and indeed a lovely scenic little setting it sits in.

Ferry leaving Cairnryan

The walk starts across the road, take care crossing as the traffic to and from Stranraer flies past. The path starts with a gradual walk up the hill. You are surrounded by rhododendron bushes but I am a month or so early before they bloom, a non native species being removed in parts of Scotland but it will still be a fine sight when they bloom. A flash of colour on the hedge catches my eye and it is a dead male pheasant. The fly tying fisherman in me considers a plucking job but decide I don't have the time nor a pouch to keep the no doubt flea ridden feathers in. I think it has been run over and left there although it looks in good condition.

Incoming & outgoing ferries

The honking of male pheasants was a common feature today with many running right in front of me or exploding out of the undergrowth right beside me giving my ticker a fright. However they are undeniably beautifully coloured birds.
At the top of the hill I spot a ferry crossing out of Cairnryan and my peripheral vision spots a bird of prey circling over a field of lambs. It looks too big for a buzzard surely not a golden eagle. Binoculars quickly out and indeed it is. It did not descend but rode a thermal circling higher and higher until out of sight. Not the only one I would see today but more of that later.
After 30 minutes I get my first glimpse of the sea, it is a Coastal path after all, and get a good view of the peninsula and lighthouse near Portpatrick, the Mull of Kintyre and in the distance Northern Ireland. To the north Ailsa Craig dominates with a view of Arran from the south that I don't normally see. Fantastic.

Ailsa Craig in the distance

The walk is now in open moorland and it is very boggy in places,I wish I had worn gaiters. Skylarks and meadow pipits take to the air singing loudly above me, a cheering sound. A pair of peewits cry and circle over the open field and I presume a nest. There is a prehistoric cairn nearby but I am not going to go across this boggy ground to try and find it.
The track heads towards the sea and I can see that it then turns left.  Every field is dotted with sheep, often with lambs, so dog walkers beware. Sheep all over apart from the track that I am heading down. The cattle are out and they are right on my path and from half a mile away they have also spotted me. There are about 20 of them with some very young calves. I have previous history with cattle and now avoid them at all costs. I walk down the hill but there is no way past from this path so a detour is in order, particularly as they are now all staring at me. Thankfully the electric fence above the stone dyke to my left is off so over I go keeping the barrier between me and the cattle. The problem I discover is that in this field I am suddenly ankle deep in bog but it has to be done. After crossing a couple of fields I get back on the path and hope that is it for cattle today.
I now make my decision. I am going to up the pace and go for the early bus. I suspect it is just a stretch too far by about 15 minutes or so but lets see. No doubt I will see its rear end and have a 2 hour wait.

Smugglers Bay Currarie Port

The views of the open countryside and across the sea are just magnificent and everything I hoped for. The path is firmer now and I get to the turn and go down the steep slope to the smugglers bay of Currarie Port. You can sit and have your sandwich and envisage who and what clambered ashore in this remote spot. 4 ravens come over the cliff, an omen or not?
The guide talks about crossing the burn via a pipe. Well the pipe is still there but the ground on the far side has eroded somewhat. Jumping was not an option. The burn was running fairly fast and deep in parts. After a scramble up and down its banks I was able to find a spot to jump across but I don't think everyone would manage this. I'm sure the burn will be faster and deeper at other times after heavy rain. Walking poles would help give some support across the water but I have not brought any today.

Looking back along the grassy slopes

Now it is up a steep rocky path, the lungs are blowing, is this the right route? I reach the top and follow the sign & a fence back towards the sea. There is a corrugated iron sheet covering in a small area that I have seen once before in Perthshire, protected habitat for adders I suspect? I follow a grassy trail in which 2 snares are set up, is this the path I again question? I scramble up and climb over the fence and head north. I soon see another fence in the distance with the ACP sign pointing north, not sure where I went wrong but at least back on track.

The next few miles are on a broadish grassy area with great views of the sea below and fairly easy walking. 
This is where I spot a bird circling slightly out at sea. It is a large bird so out with binoculars. My first thought was an osprey as the first arrivals are heading north just now but do they take fish from sea water, I suppose they do, need to find out. The glasses confirmed eagle so next thought was sea eagle trying to find an eider for lunch. It circled and the flew inland fairly close. I could not see any sign of a white tail so I presume it was a goldie but again I have not seen them hunt over the sea before. 
I look at Ailsa Craig and from this perspective I can see the sheer cliff where the gannets nest. Even from this distance their droppings have painted the cliff white.
I am now pushing on quickly with grave doubts about my prospects of success. In the distance I can see the peak of the hill that sits to the west of Ballantrae but I had hoped to see the town itself. 

Ballantrae & Ailsa Craig

Care has to be taken as the ground does give from time to time. I crest a ridge and the town is in view, a quick check of the watch, 26 minutes to bus time. The path goes through a kissing gate into a cattle churned muddy field with no obvious directions re where to head. I can see the River Stinchar which I know cannot be crossed from the beach so I head inland and follow a fence up to the road path. Back on track literally and a quick check of the map shows I have to follow the track through two working farms to the main road.
The walk has been one of total isolation, at one with nature and my own thoughts, the first person I met was a worker at the 1st farm on this track. The amount of farm machinery indicates considerable investment and a large business.

Bridge over the River Stinchar

I am now into a jog walk and reach the main road with 5 minutes to spare and get a quick snap of the bridge. 
Now where is the bus stop? I get there with 3 minutes to spare to the timetabled service and you know what comes next, the bus was 10 minutes late!!
All in all a superb walk with fantastic views, both inland and out to sea. I did the walk in 3 hours almost to the minute but with sweat on the brow. I will return and do this in a more leisurely fashion. Still a superb day, great scenery and plenty of birdlife, what's not to enjoy.