Sunday, 4 October 2015

Cumbrae revisited.....Porpoises

Wild flowers on Cumbrae looking over to Largs
It's been a few months since I was last over to Cumbrae and a visit was long overdue. The only choice today was whether to walk or cycle. I decided a longer more leisurely day was what was wanted so walking it was to be.
The weather was excellent today and as always the short ferry crossing from Largs gets the juices going. Boarding a Calmac ferry always feels like I'm going on holiday and I become a wee kid again.
Cumbrae history
A change of routine is preferred today so my walk will circuit the island in a clockwise direction. My preference has always been anti clockwise simply because you get the feeling of remoteness and isolation almost straight away. Today's route follows the 'busier' 4 mile section from the ferry to Millport although it is only really busy for a couple of minutes at a time as the cars from each ferry scoot past.
What a lovely feeling to have the sun shining, so much more enjoyable. The cyclists are also out in force, the bike hire shops in Millport will be happy today. This side of the island gives you views across to Largs, the marina, Hunterston power station and the hills behind them. There is always some activity on the water to have a look at.
Unusually calm waters Arran beyond
The main interest for me is on the shore line looking for the birds on the rocky shores. The island has a lot more activity during the colder months but still enough around today. A flock of curlews fly across the water. Another flock of of peewits land in a nearby field. A pair of buzzards rise from the trees and circle on a thermal. A grey heron is spooked as I walk past calling noisily as it flies away. Terns and most gull species are spotted.
Lion rock
As always 'lion rock' is worth a minute or two to reflect on the geology of the island that created these formations.
This brings me to the museum/aquarium. Last year it was threatened with closure but new buildings have been constructed since my last visit so presumably all is now well. Also I spend a few minutes reading the plaque about an Antarctic expedition from over a century ago, always interesting.
There are a few guys sea fishing from the rocks as I make my way around the headland entering Millport. The bay full of boats and the hills of Arran in the background just stunning.
There is one routine that I don't change and as always I head to the butchers and get a hot Cumbrae pasty and sit on the front to enjoy eating it, not healthy but superb. After that the next shop gets a visit for the healthy stuff an orange and a bottle of water.
It is good to see the place busy but our school holidays end in a couple of days so it will be left to the English holidaymakers of whom there are quite a few voices heard today.
Millport
After a walk along the front up the hill of golf road to get away from the main island road for a bit. This shortens the walk by a couple of miles but the views from up here are a highlight of the walk. As I cross the isolated hill ground I suddenly spy some coos in the grass just ahead. One rises but thankfully they take no further interest. Just as well as there is nowhere to go and no trees to climb.
Back on the main road and the only cafe on this side of the island is popular. I think I have earned an ice cream but on the board I see a Solero advertised, an iced orange cream lolly, when was the last time I had one of these? A few years probably but it tasted just as good as I remembered.
Porpoise bay
As I walked further on I was looking at the flat calm glassy waters in a lovely isolated bay when I noticed a very large circle in the water making me wonder what could have caused that. I soon got my answer as a pair of porpoise, close together, arched their backs out of the water as they rose in unison to breath, quickly disappearing under the water again. So close to the shore, so spectacular, nature at its best. I saw them rise another 4 times before they went under submerged for good. It is not the 1st time that I have seen porpoise in these waters but this was the best sighting by far.

Suitably chuffed I headed back to the ferry having had a really good glad to be alive day.

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