Ayrshire Coastal Path Ballantrae - Girvan

For a variety of reasons it has been too long since I have been out on my ramblings so it was a great feeling to get started again. The weather forecast was for a day of blue skies, unreal after all the storms. I still had two sections of the ACP to complete so with the bright forecast I went for the furthest away stretch, beginning at Ballantrae and walking north to Girvan, this ensured that the bright sunshine was at my back to avoid the glare.
I drove to Girvan to get the bus to Ballantrae. The buses only run every two hours so I did not want to take the risk of hanging about at the end, better to finish at the car and leave straight away.

It ended up a bit of an adventure before I even started walking.
Getting the bus in Girvan was not so easy. I had checked the Traveline Scotland app the night before and it indicated a local bus then the main Stranraer one which seemed odd, I thought it would be straight onto the latter. Arrived at Girvan, parked up and went to the nearest bus stop which did not mention my bus!! I tried the app but my phone would not go onto data roaming which was strange. I then asked a postman and 2 other passers by but no conclusive answer, nobody uses buses here. I remembered the time to get on the bus was 10.36 so I hung about with the view that if nothing came I would just start walking and do the route in reverse. About 10.40 I started walking south and sure enough a bus appeared. I ran back to the stop and yes it went to Ballantrae.
When I got off the bus there was a scenic church opposite, I checked my camera which would not open, message battery needs charged. Curses, I had charged it fully just a couple of days ago, luckily the phone was charged.
I had brought my bike GPS to see if it would track my walk. However it would not locate a satellite, curses again it has never done this before.

The beginning of walk Ballantrae

I went down the waterfront to start the walk in very warm conditions. After 5 minutes I stopped to remove the mid layer. I also checked the GPS and it had found a target, pressed start and got a walking indicator of 3.2 mph, a lot slower that the bike but that was not the point. I wrapped it in a plastic bag and into the mesh side of the rucksack to keep its signal.

Looking towards Bennane Head

The initial beach stretch to Bennane head was along the rocky beach, quite hard underfoot at times but nice and peaceful with just the sound of the waves crashing in. Along the beach I spotted a small jellyfish freshly washed up, I'm no expert but I thought this was a bit early. Also in the beachside scrub two yellow heads of dandelions, what, definitely too early for them.

At the end of the beach the path cuts inland slightly and you walk up the old road. However problems with my route at the kissing gate, the field was full of young cattle with no way to pass other than to walk through the herd. With my previous experience that was a no go. Also the ground was so churned up by them it would have been awful in the mud and gloop.
I went further along over some rocks and came to a fence near the old road, threw my bag over and put my hand on to climb over, electric shock it was wired, more curses. Further along again I got over a safe bit and backtracked for my rucksack which was beside the small cairn named after a local hermit and his cave across the road.

Old road

Up the old road I went with rewarding views out to sea, the cliffs to my right occupied by ravens and rock pipits.
At the top of the hill the next field to cross was again full of hill cattle. I met two walkers going the other way who said there was also a big bull with them, they had climbed into the field to avoid them. I decided to do likewise but as I clambered over the rock I was standing on gave way, my hand slipped and my hand and weight went on to a rusty barb wire. The sound as I popped it out was a loud squelch and the blood flowed freely along with many curses.
My plan had been to visit Sawney Bean's cave but the coos did for that.
I got to the top of the field and reached the public car park. From here you do not have any choice other than to walk the roadside verge of the A77 to Lendalfoot.

A77 to Lendalfoot

Before you arrive at Lendalfoot you come to Carleton Bay where there is a memorial to a Russian battleship called Varyag which apparently is hugely famous to the Russians and sank in the bay. Do an internet search, it is a fascinating story and one I knew nothing about until today. It was a lovely spot to eat my lunch and contemplate the Varyag and its story.

Varyag memorial

The  high tide was against me so I had to continue with my roadside walk and indeed this was almost all the way to Girvan.
I walked along for a mile or so until the guide suggests you go up Pinbain Hill. There are warnings about hill cattle, no dogs allowed, so the true coward in me decided two cow adventures were enough for 1 day and also I was on my own. Out of my peripheral vision I spotted a pair of roe deer just in the heather near the start of the hill. A nice sight and once they spotted me they disappeared into the bracken.
I continued on my walk and despite the proximity of the road it was ok, north traffic was light. I could see the radio pylons on the suggested route just above me and I was a bit annoyed at myself for not taking that route. That track started to descend to meet the road again but lo and behold at the bottom of the track where it joins the road there was another herd of cattle right at the gate. If I had taken the hill track there was no other option other than go through them, no chance, they looked a lively and inquisitive lot, or retrace your steps.
Farmers have a living to make and these are their lands but I think there is something wrong when an official walking route puts walkers in danger. I think a bit of forethought, even short narrow fenced of sections could accommodate both parties.

Old ruined cottage

There are some pleasant properties on the right of the road and a very old ruined fishing cottage on the beach side as the picture shows.
Again my vision was taken towards the sea, was it just an eider bobbing on the waves? No, through the binos it was the head of a seal tearing pieces off a large squid, the tentacles of which were wrapped around its head. When the seal finished eating it dropped under the surface not to be seen again.
The guide mentions another old road section that could be used for a mile but I did not see it unless it was where I went back onto the beach.
Venturing onto the beach for the last couple of miles, it was not easy walking but still nice to get away from the road for a while. There is another short stretch of road walking then you can walk all along the beach to the end of the walk at Girvan harbour.

Girvan in sight

Back at the car I checked the GPS, the message said press button to start, yet again more curses.
However a good stretch of the legs if not quite the walk I anticipated. Magnificent views all day seaward taking in Northern Ireland, Ailsa Craig, snow capped Arran and the Kintyre peninsula.
Lots of birdlife including two pair of stonechats, a rare kestrel, ravens and all the usual seabirds
The walk was around the 14 mile mark and took me 4 and a half hours and slightly stiff legs, well I had done a 30 mile bike ride the day before. As I said at the beginning great to be back on the road.