A trip to the dark side for my final Donald.....Windy Gyle

Hill: Windy Gyle (619m) (originally mapped as Windygate Hill, gate to the border?); The Cheviot (815m)

Type: Donald and Cheviot

Finally todays the day, barring an accident I will complete the Donalds today. As hoped the weather was forecast to stay good although some showers possible late afternoon, but hopefully off the hill by then.

A beautiful blue sky morning drive through stunning Borders landscape finishing with a 7 mile very, very narrow single track with high hedges and banking, views ahead limited. Thought got to meet something here. Indeed I did two tractors, I reversed. The car at least stopped at a passing place.

Early light. Various routes but I went along tree line

The Cocklawfoot farm parking area was empty but as I changed another car pulled up. A quick chat, two locals taking a different route than me.

It was already warm as I walked the dirt track heading to Windy Gyle. There are various route options to climb the hill but I took the right hand as I walked which was a circling track. I was already regretting the big breakfast. I hadn't ordered a lot but the portions were huge. Of course I ate it being of the generation brought up to never waste food, mainly as we did not have a lot of it. But now burping away, glad I was on my own! 

The farmer doesn't want you on his fields so has created some signs to help walkers bypass. I was surprised when I reached a coiled electric fence, yes it was on and what was beyond? I crawled under it to meet the face of a cow. Thankfully it remained chewing the cud, a close encounter.

Tick & cleg party time as I head for the trees

The track follows the farm boundaries before it entered a plantation quite narrow walking, lots of scope for beasties glad I put my protection on. 

Bambi

I heard rustling in the trees to my side and further up two roe deer emerged crossing the track. Not long after a stoat did the same, sadly far too quick to even think about a snap.

Note the fern growth on the slopes. Kelsocleugh Rig and Windy Rig ahead

Broke the treeline and headed up Kelsocleugh Rig before heading for Windy Rig. I was now also following fresh coo pats, kept me alert but like yesterday never saw them, probably hiding in the ferns.

From Windy Rig looking across th the Cheviots furthest away

True to its name a cooling breeze hit Windy rig, a bit chilly I thought. The grassy track now becomes eroded peat but dry. A straightforward ramble with good views over the Scottish side, this landscape is so flat.

Windy Gyle appears

Before I was expecting it the trig and cairn of Windy Gyle suddenly appeared. My final Donald. Having watched all the Olympic competitors in floods of tears at their achievements I was determined to not do likewise lol. 

As I approached so did another figure coming up from the dark side. He glanced over, no acknowledgment and just walked away. Clearly a dark side personality.

So, alone as I touched the trig then realised I wasn't. There was a wasps nest under the trig and they were buzzing about in big numbers so off I quickly went. This happened to me once before, I think one of the Lomond hills, more of wasps later. Still on the hill, apparently the slopes I climbed were Scotland but some say the top is in England.

Plenty of junction posts

I had made good time so decided to walk the ridge to the Donald top of Cairn Hill West Top. I know the Donalds are a strange bunch but this has to be the longest walk to link a top with its parent, all other hill categories included.

Double slabs at first. Auchope far left

After Windy Gyle I crossed the fence and walked the Pennine Way. Instead of peat hags it is a stone slab walkway. If you are a hard core masochist you can of course opt to walk the Scottish side. Absolutely great in places but also sore on the feet. It is a pleasant enough wander across the moor with the 'top' in view just me and my thoughts. 

I know this is England but road signs!!

I pass a very out of place sign to see on top of a hill, certainly unique for me. Do estate tracks really need signs?

Now single slabs heading for the highest pointed top mid left

The junction marks the Donald top of Cairn Hill West Top

After about an hour the track becomes peat slopes again and heads up to the Donal top, a track junction is its high point. Surprisingly this is the highest point on the border, there you go, am I in Scotland again? If you go to the Cheviot you go over Cairn Hill itself which to my eyes was higher than its West Top but maybe all of that is in England, need to ask Percy. 

Over the fence and the tramp to The Cheviot

Then the internal debate should I head to The Cheviot and do a dark side hill? Of course it would be silly not to. It adds about 2.5miles to the trip. Now that I am walking on the dark side there are bodies appearing from everywhere. Three hours of only one person and I have now found the party. 

All the English ran away when they heard my accent. The Cheviot trig.

The Cheviot is reached, another nothing top on a moor, the trig is high up on a stone platform, maybe this is a dark side thing? Still I rest and eat my pork pie, the views are of moor and a flat landscape with rain coming down over to the east.

Auchope ahead from Cairn Hill West Top

Back down the same way to the junction and onwards to the cairn at Auchope, where for a short area there is plenty of boulder scree as well as excellent views. More people sheltering for lunch this Pennine Way sure is popular.

Only section with boulders on the walk

On the steep descent looking into and over Hen Hole

I could see the farm from here but getting there proved more awkward. The paving has now gone, reverted to a normal dirt track as I descend steeply to the Mountain refuge hut. Some excellent views of the craggy Hen Hole.

Looking back to Auchope. I was told the hut was vandalised a few weeks ago, sad.

The farm is left near the light strip but the fence led me right

Now this is where things went a bit awry. I was following the SMC book guidelines and it said to walk about 500m after the hut and then go through a gate to follow the ridge fence downwards towards the farm. This I did measuring the 500m and reached a barbed wire fence around that spot, no gate. IThe fence was tall and taught and the barbed wire did damage but I was over. The terrain was much rougher but lightly flattened grass suggested this was a track of sorts but sheep I suspect. As I descended I just had a feeling this was not right. I did a proper check and realised I was on Dod Hill not Auchope Rig. The cut off was more like 100m after the hut not 500m, lesson learned re SMC book.

From Dod Hill, there is a fern covered cleugh down below

From the top of Dod Hill I scanned the horizon and there was no obvious easy way to where I wanted to be. The lower slopes were covered in head high ferns. I could see two estate tracks and although I did not want to follow them I could use them as markers if I had to go cross country. I descended further and when I reached the fern level off Dod Hill I was relieved to spot an ATV track below. By contouring the hill, moving away from where I wanted to be, I reached the track without too much fern damage.

I then followed this track back in the direction of the farm. There was the option of a more direct route, involved climbing again and also over rough ground but I decided to stick with this track, the off road would be the last resort. 

I follow a pair of red legged partridge maybe they get fed at the farm?

As the track climbed again I wondered if it was just going back up Auchope Rig as a track to the sheep. It did at first but thankfully I followed a spur which did indeed take me back to the farm.

At the farm I chatted to two workers who were at a newly built but unfinished silo. Turned out there was a wasps nest in the girders and like Windy Gyle the wasps were very active. Their solution was to wait until the walkers cars were gone, batter the nest off the girders, jump in the waiting van and come back tomorrow. Good luck.

I was happy to be back at the car and reflect on an excellent day. Chuffed to have completed the Donalds, there has been a lot of memorable walking along the journey. Today was great, even adding an English hill to my tally, my first and last. As I looked back the clouds were a stunning threatening black, it was a good time to be off the hill.

Sadly the only pub open midweek in Jedburgh is shut for Covid cleaning, so some cold beer from the Coop is my only option to celebrate here. Don't worry I will celebrate properly tomorrow when back home.

Ascent: 770m

Distance: 22.2km

Time: 5.31

Wildlife: Roe deer; Pheasant; Stoat; Red legged partridge; Pied Wagtail; Buzzard; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Wood Pigeon

Another moorland horseshoe.....Cauldcleugh Head

Hill: Cauldcleugh Head (Hill above the Cauld/Cold Cleugh

Type: Graham/Donald

Height: (619m)

I had nothing planned for this week but the forecast of a weather front coming in from midweek galvanised me into action. It was time to get the last Donalds completed.

Surprised to start my journey in light rain, this was not forecast.  A pleasant long drive to Langholm then a bit of where is this start but I found it after a detour into England.

The start to Tudhope

Sun shining so i got started with a 'gentle' 300m ascent which gets the biggest single climb out of the way. As soon as I stepped into the field I spied fresh coo pats. The grass was waist high, where were they? As it turned out I only met some sheep but I was on full alert. It is only 300m but it was a week since I had done anything and my calves were feeling it. 

ATV track helps

A faint ATV track was welcome which gave a line of sight rather than ploughing through deep grass.

Tudhope trig looking to Cauldcleugh Head

Once up there is a trig at the summit of Tudhope Hill and some very good views, possibly the best of the day.

After that the good going changes totally. I had read reports that this was a horrible bog fest and I can understand why. Although it was very dry on my circuit there were still many unavoidable patches of bog and sphagnum that would be very different after wet weather.

Follow that fence

In truth I found the walk from Tudhope onwards to be a just a long plod. Not overly difficult just awkward walking, eyes down all the time looking for the holes waiting to catch you out. And the views not that great. The hills of the horseshoe and the cleughs have their own attraction but not enough to keep my attention for long.

Unless superfit take the long way round high route

There is a fence to follow and alongside there is also an apparently random set of wooden posts set away from the fence which I was struggling to work out what they were for. I didn't think they were a guided walk route as the terrain was too rough. Eventually the light switched on and I worked it out that they were not a linear walk but guiding you around the worst of the peat hags.

Final section to Cauldcleugh

My ramble took me round the horseshoe from Tudhope-Millstone Edge-Langfae Hill then the prize of Cauldcleugh.

Flat Borders landscape from Cauldcleugh

When I reached Cauldcleugh summit, no trig, no cairn, typical for these hills just a larger iron post. Apt for this terrain. The views are of a largely flat landscape, the odd bump like the Eildons standing out. On a good day you would probably see the Lake District hills but the haze prevented that today but I could see tomorrows objective The Cheviots.

You want to stay high but note the pole and the hags

Next up was possibly the worst of the high terrain as I headed across to Muckle Land Knowe and then a quick change of direction to Pennygant Hill. 

Tudhope behind the pole

Some of the posts found again as I headed for Stob Fell. Felt like a slalom ski racer as I used them to dodge the hags.

The poles take you over and down far side but I wanted to cut off

Looking down I could see that I was heading away from my car so it was time to pick a spot and head off the ridge. Although the posts continued along the high ridge I also found a few on my descent. The grass was waist high but an animal/person had flattened some of the grass to follow at times. Pain in my leg and a bloody cleg had bit me, a nice lump already!!

My car is beside small tree plantation on left, but how to get there?

This was a very steep descent and then the grass turned to tall ferns and newly planted trees. Why does the end of a walk often end so frustratingly? I knew it was a probability but still hacked off. Thankfully I stayed on the fringe of the ferns and found a narrow stone track. However, it narrowed again and I though it had ended into the ferns but relief when it did take me to my expected track close to Billhope cottage.

Relieved to get this track

Time to get some treatment on that cleg bite and then the walk back to the car. Hot, hot, hot. Turned out this area was the warmest in Scotland today.

Looking back to the descent heavy fern growth  and tree planting no matter where you descend

Probably not a walk that I will remember too much about but I sure am glad that I did it after this prolonged dry spell. My thoughts would have been darker if it had been a bog fest. 

Ascent: 571m

Distance: 11.7km

Time: 3,22

Wildlife: Raven; Buzzard; Skylark; Kestrel; Meadow Pipit; Small white; Roe deer

 

A Dalmally horseshoe but not the normal one.....Beinn a'Chocuill & Beinn Eunaich

Hill: Beinn a'Chochuill (Mountain of the cowl/hood) (980m) & Beinn Eunaich (Bird rich mountain) (989m)

Type: Munro x2

For a good part of my working life I drove to Oban at least once a month, probably over 15 - 20 years. On plenty of good weather occasions I descended from Loch Awe and my eye would be drawn to the Dalmally hills. The main focus was Cruachan but my desires were for its neighbours. The Dalmally horseshoe is on my to-do list but the next pair always stood out and that was todays target. The descent from Loch Awe is the only place you can view both Munros in full.

After yesterdays big day in the heat this was meant to be the shorter recovery day but when I put the detail last night in I realised the ascent was actually higher than yesterdays big day, failing to prepare etc. I also had left it from previous trips as I wanted the views but again!! Still I was here so on with it.

Passing the farm track heads up flanks of Beinn Eunaich

Had my brekkie and set off early but after 5 miles the blue skies I had left had turned into mist and fog in Glen Lochy. At the start it had lifted slightly but not by much. Also the few parking areas were full so I had to edge in further down.

Just sheep for company heading up the track

The initial section followed an estate/mine track and was a continual rise. Even in these conditions it was warm work and I was perspiring. Passed the descent cairn which could be used if you wanted an anti clockwise circuit but that makes it a tougher start. 

Guess this pile of stones means start the long climb in the gloom

Finally I reached my pile of stones to head up the SW flank of Chochuill. Not that it made any difference, I could have been on any grassy flank as I could see little distance ahead.

Got a fright when I rounded a boulder to find an elderly woman standing still. I had not spotted anyone on the track. There was no movement so I asked if she was ok. A posh voice said yes, just to go on she would take her time.

Ridge starting to appear thank goodness I can see something, big corrie on right

So I did, onwards and upwards. I didn't get a view until about 50 metres from the ridge. On the ascent all I could see was more and more steep slopes emerging out of the gloom, this top sure teases with you. The cloud was warm, no breeze and I was sweating buckets. I have never ever sweated this much on a walk. My clothes felt like I had stood in the shower, not the best feeling.

Finally a track but not the summit 

Finally I emerged from the clouds to meet a young couple descending. The girl giving me strange looks in my sodden gear, but did I care?

The top shows itself

Of course this is not the top and a kilometre long ascending ridge walk is made to reach the summit. Sadly I wasnt getting any of the hoped for views into the glens etc but tops were peaking out, in particular the Etive Munros and the Black Mount hills. 

Pointed peak is Ben Cruachan

Ben Cruachan tops are occasionally glimpsed but not the views I wanted of its hidden corries.

I headed back along the ridge and met a group of five youngsters who were going anti clockwise. Had a nice chat then off we went.

Heading back to the cloud and flanks of Eunaich showing briefly

As I walked along the ridge the cloud lowered again and with the brief glimpses Eunaich looked particularly steep and pointed. I knew that I was also going to lose a few hundred metres would these legs survive. Briefly contemplated descending via ascent route but talked myself out of it. Luckily it stayed in its cloud shroud so I could not get too distracted.

Still in cloud the descent seemed an age before the legs told me I was going upwards again. Actually it was a case of it looked worse than reality. A  trail meandered upwards to the boulders where it became a case of pick your route utilising the grassy areas before the top came in sight. 

From Eunaich summit more of Cruachan ridge showing

Still I had a few recovery pauses so glad to get to the top. The cairn is just after the boulder field. There is a large horseshoe cairn for a shelter if required. Views not much better although the Cruachan ridge was briefly showing itself fuller than earlier.

The ridge walk had dried my gear out so a more pleasant feeling on the descent.

Descent ridge back into the cloud

Still very cloudy but getting much hotter. The descent following the ridge is a very long one. The track comes and goes and constantly checking my bearing. Easy to go wrong up here. 

Just before I descended the steep track Loch Awe appears

Reached the peat hags just as the views opened up. The descent back to the track was almost 300m and really awkward. Narrow fissures of stone/boulder scree almost impossible to walk on at times. The grassy sides when available were so dry and bare that there was no purchase there either. A very slow descent that seemed never-ending.

The track walk back to the car also seemed longer in this heat. Although I had drank plenty of water there is only so much refreshment you get from warmish water from a bladder pack. Sadly no running water around to get fresh cooler water.

View from farm again, Chocuill in middle & Eunaich right

I was glad to get back to the car and get a full gear change even in the toasting heat. It was a good walk and certainly demanding. It is a full on ascent of Chochuill from almost sea level so these Munros make you work hard for the bragging rights. Glad I did them.

Ascent: 1219m

Distance: 14.7km

Time: 5.46

Wildlife: Stonechat; Pied Wagtail; Raven; Meadow Pipit;