Pitlochry to Rannoch Station cycle

Rannoch Station

Today was my chosen day to complete a bike ride that I had earmarked for some time. My only concern was my ageing body as already this week I have waded a river on 2 full days salmon fishing and completed two hill climbs and no day off yet. Muscles were feeling a little sore but as the forecast was good off I went.
I had thought about wearing shorts due to the blue sky but decided on leggings which turned out to be the correct decision as despite the blue sky I had a cool headwind for at least half the ride. I had a choice of going the north side of the lochs Tummel and Rannoch which follows the main road or go via the quieter back-roads on the south. As Mrs B was taking the car to the other end it was best to stick to the main route.

The bungee jump cage

We are staying at the south end of Pitlochry so my start was a ride up the main street of Pitlochry, from previous experience always the most dangerous section of the ride. The other day I had the wind behind me and flew up to the Tummel bridge, today with the headwind it was a bit more laboured.
As I crossed the bridge I could hear a terrified scream and laughter. Somebody was doing the bungee jump from the platform below the bridge, good on them as I'm not brave enough to do it. The stretch between here and the 'Queen's view' is typical winding Highland road, climbing through an ancient forest as the road constantly ascends. The gradient was not that severe, my lungs and breathing were fine but my thighs were telling me a days rest prior to this might have helped. However, on and upwards I went, a red squirrel climbs a tree to my right. As it is early in the day there is minimal traffic on the road which is perfect as this stretch is the worst for cars speeding round blind corners.

1st sighting Schiehallion

I cycle past the 'view' carpark, visitors there already but no stopping for me, a short climb and I break the tree cover and get my first glimpse of my favourite mountain, Schiehallion, the hill of the fairies.
The views are what you do this ride for and on this stretch I am looking down onto Loch Tummel and Schiehallion is always in view, slightly snow covered. I go through the hamlet of Strathtummel, the hotel looks welcoming and the Belhaven beer sign tempting but far too early.

River Tummel

I stop to take a photo and spot a dead badger on the other side of the fence. It looks in good condition and presumably only recently killed, probably by a car and crawled away to die, always a sad sight.

Loch Rannoch

I follow the road to Tummel bridge passing a view caravan parks. As it's name suggests there is a bridge, two in fact. By far the best is the ancient stone bridge built by General Wade in 1730, pedestrian only.
The road cuts away from the loch but you still have running water on your left as the road follows the River Tummel. Suddenly a nice twisting corkscrew downhill section at speed with a hairpin makes me dream of a Tour descent, a nice thrill it was. 
I stop at Craig Varr to take a photo. As I look up I think it would be nice framed with an eagle above. Unbelievably, before I could get the camera out an eagle appeared out of the blue sky, wings folded in a dive going behind the hill. No time to get glasses out and frame a shot I just pointed upwards and fired off a couple of shots. Later I checked and I had the eagle in them but far too small and not sharp enough to do anything about it.
More nice views as I pass Dunalastair Water and I come into Kinloch Rannoch. This roughly my half way point and I meet Mrs B who is heading for a cafe which I decline just in case legs stiffen up.

Glencoe hills over Rannoch Moor

At the edge of town Loch Rannoch opens up with a magnificent view right down the loch with the snowy hills of Glencoe prominent at the end.
The ride along Loch Rannoch was the flattest section of the ride and thankfully no head wind. Next to no traffic, fantastic views what is not to enjoy about this, great to be alive. The hills of Glencoe constantly in view.
At the end of the loch I actually see people, a couple of caravans are parked at the side and from the fishing rods on the bank I presume that they are pike anglers. Bridge of Gaur is the next hamlet. If you were doing a circular ride of Loch Rannoch turn left here but I am going straight on towards Rannoch Station.
The road has begun to twist and turn as well as climbing. It is actually the short sharp gradients that are now taking their toll on my thighs. The terrain is now opening out to be typical moorland, wide open space, tumbling water in the shallow rocky river, looks good for an evenings trout fishing.

I finally arrive at Rannoch Station, a beautiful spot but for some reason I had it in my mind that would be a totally open moorland scene. Not quite the case but certainly not a disappointment. This has to be one of the most spectacular and isolated railway stations in Scotland. It is an operational station but only a few trains run a day. It is part of the West Highland line and the station first opened for business over a century ago in 1894.
Thankfully it has a splendid tearoom which was very welcome and I recommend the home baking to anyone, the carrot cake was just the sugar rush I needed. We sat outside and were rewarded with a small herd of red deer hinds clearly visible in the field below.

Looking back Rannoch Moor tip of Schiehallion in distance

The ride was just over 38 miles and I would recommend it to anyone. My legs were feeling it with the gradients and the wind. I'm sure it would have been a better return trip but the bike is going on the car for my return trip. Next time I will have the rest before and enjoy a complete circuit. If you get the chance please do it I don't think you will be disappointed.

Schiehallion from Rannoch Bridge

Loch Rannoch

Meall na Leitreach

Meall na Leitreach from the carpark

After a full day on the Tay salmon fishing my legs were a bit stiff but Mrs B and I decided we go for a decent walk, kill or cure treatment. The weather forecast was in our favour possibly clouding over later in the day. So off we set up the A9 towards Dalwhinnie. Our destination was a Corbett, Meall na Leitreach which was chosen as it should be an easier walk for Mrs B as the start of the walk is already at altitude. This we soon found out was true when we approached Dalnaspidal lodge and could see snow on the hills. When we got out of the car the temperature was already telling us we were higher than when we left. The skies were still blue but!! Decision made we were going up. There was some snow lying on the hill but not enough to stop us. This hill, according to the Scottish mountaineering guide is often climbed with its northern partner, the Sow of Atholl, in one day but no chance of that with Mrs B in tow.

The hills either side of Loch Garry

The start of the walk goes across the railway line, take care please, past the lodge and joins the path to Rannoch via Loch Garry, a 10 mile remote walk if you fancy.

The gorge full of snow

The beautiful cry of peewits criss crossing the grassy areas in their magnificent flying display, definitely one of my favourite birds, sadly very much in decline. We cross the weir to the angry sound of greylag geese upset at our presence, presumably residents.

There is an outline of a track that goes more or less straight up to the plateau. It was a bit boggy underfoot which I think would be a wet marshy foot squelching walk after heavy rainfall. One of the reasons for the boggy path is the tracks of the estates hill vehicles churning the ground. The walk is straight forward but do keep stopping and looking around as the views are superb. Keep the gorge to your right and you will be fine. Fairly easy today as they are full of melting snow, not worth the risk of going through. Half way up the hill we get a good view of the first of three golden eagles spotted today. It's a good chance it was the same bird three times but still a superb sight. Also all the way up we spooked the red grouse, sometimes at the last minute which gives the heart a flutter.

The lodge sits in the trees below

At the top of the gorge we cut across the heather slopes towards what we thought was the top. At one of the boggy patches the water was alive with mating frogs. They all disappeared into the mud as they became aware of our presence, presumably vibrations. It never fails to amaze me when I find frogs at these high altitudes. The views are outstanding but it soon became obvious that to our left was a path leading to a hill slightly higher than this one. Ten minutes later we were at the real top. It is a bare grassy plateau but just stand and look around. Easy to pick out Vrakie, Schiehallion, the Glencoe peaks, looking down towards Rannoch, just superb. It took us 1 hour 20 minutes.

The summit

Photos taken we follow the track back down but then make the mistake of departing down the slope we thought we had came up. Fools as we joined the gorge a good way down but on the wrong side. I explored a bit further down but with the melting snow in the gorge I was not prepared to take the risk so we climbed again back up to the top of the snow field and back down the correct side, the gorge on our left. The mountain hares had come out to play, still with half a snow white coat it brought a smile to our faces.

Glencoe peaks behind Mrs B

Back at ground level we look over the bridge to the clear water below and a brown trout of at least 2lb slowly swam away, where's my fly rod?
A good easy walk with outstanding views.  Meall na Leitreach is 775m but as mentioned earlier the walk starts at altitude so the climbing is only about 400m, add another 100m plus for our detour.
 

Looking down to Loch Garry

Arthur's Seat

It was another brilliant spring day forecast and my good lady wanted to join me for a shortish walk today. As we are still in Edinburgh a safe option is Arthur's Seat where we are guaranteed good views. The only downside is that this extinct volcano can be a very popular place on a day like this, particularly as it is still the school holidays.

The Gardens

We travel by bus into Edinburgh, getting off at the West End so that we can start our walk in Princes Street Gardens. There cannot be many cities where the main shopping street has the stupendous view this one offers looking out over the gardens and up to the Castle.
There are already a few holidaymakers around as well as a few workers heading towards their offices and shops, poor souls. We head to the base of the castle and follow one of the paths that meanders upwards leading to the castle esplanade. There are already a few souls regretting their decisions to go up this way, it may be short but it is steep.

St Giles

Spend some time taking in the views from either side of the esplanade, this is always a pleasure. The tourist numbers are ramped up now, if we had a pound for every snap being taken. Why does every Japanese carry a selfie?
The route to Arthur's seat goes straight down the Royal Mile. Have a look at the menus of the bars and restaurants and choose tonight's stop. Also you must take the time out to have a look inside St Giles cathedral. It is magnificent building and you certainly don't need to be religious to admire it. The number of war memorials inside listing the dead and wounded of long forgotten military campaigns are just amazing. Its interesting to see how many died of illness as opposed to the fighting.
Just a bit further down on the same side of the street is the Heart of Midlothian mosaic on the pavement. The badge of Hearts FC is based on this.

Salisbury Crags

Now the Royal Mile narrows into the Canongate, the buildings on either side encroach, the shops are full of tourist paraphernalia, local jewellery and cafes/bars.

At the bottom of the mile there is the Royal Palace, never had an invite to one of the Queens garden parties and across the road is the Scottish Parliament building, it is fair to say the design does not appeal to everyone and I am not a fan.

However today my sights are set on the view ahead of Salisbury crags and the start of our ascent. You can go a bit further south and take the path directly to the top but we go along the side of these crags, it is quieter and you get good views all the way up. 

Parliament buildings

After ascending and going along the crags you come back down again, which disappointed Mrs B but the views of the city are top drawer. You can spend a long time trying to identify all that you can see. Also from this angle you can now see Arthur's Seat, people are already at the summit.

The castle from the crags

We join a formal track and start the short sharp climb. With it being such a nice day there are a lot of people around but I knew the other route on the other side would be even busier. Up we go, the lungs are breathing deeper, the views are getting better. I hear a child cry and see a male trying to come down a totally unsuitable crag in the rocks, no path no holds and a terrified child. Thankfully they edge there way down but there one kid who hated her day thanks to her stupid parent.

Arthur's Seat

We reach the summit plateau but before climbing to the very busy trig we go across to the other crag where nobody else is around. You get excellent views from here so do it yourself. Arthur's Seat is a volcano and you get a good appreciation of the rock formation inside the crater.

With a heavy heart we go to join the mobs on the summit. It is 251 metres but with the climb up Salisbury Crag our climb will be about 350 metres. The rocks are surprisingly slippy, worn shiny by all the feet on them, makes us think about how interesting it would be on a damp wet day. Photos taken and time to head down the other tourist path towards Dunsapie Loch.

Leith and beyond

There is now an ant trail heading up the hill that we are descending. There is no doubt that for many that the ascent was a better idea in the pub last night than today's reality. A group of four hill runners go jogging past uphill at a good rate. Even a mountain biker goes past, not sure how high he is going but it looks hard work for him. There are a few of the ants significantly breathing heavily and with still a way to go.

Path from Dunsapie Loch

For us it is a pleasant descent and time to be tourists. We head for Cafe Truva which is just up Canongate, it is a Turkish cafe where you get a nice lunch, a bit different from the norm and on a fine day like this there are outside tables to people watch. If you just want coffee & cake there are plenty of options to entice you.
Arthur's Seat is a great short walk with fantastic panoramic views across Edinburgh and far beyond. Just don't expect to have it to yourself, sadly it is not a hidden secret.

River of Leith Walkway

A change of coast for today's ramble and one that I can unequivocally recommend. If you are to pick a walk that runs from the outskirts of a large city, through its centre out to the other side and only occasionally realise you are in a big city then without a doubt this is one to pick.
For those unfamiliar with this walk it runs from the countryside setting of Balerno to the waterfront of Leith. The formal route mileage states a 12 mile walk but with a few diversions mine was just over 13. The great advantage of this walk is that you can join and leave it almost anywhere along the route so you can do it in one walk or make a few walks out of it. The walk does cross some roads in the city but it would be very difficult to lose your way.

River near Balerno

The walk follows the river course almost in its entirety throughout the outskirts and the city of Edinburgh. There is a good route map/guide, costing only £1, which is available from the information centre at Slateford which, if you can, I recommend you buy beforehand. It's not just a map it's also packed with information about the route. The walkway is a good path throughout and almost totally flat.

I decided to complete this in one stint and it suited me best to start the walk from the Balerno end, which meant I was walking from the west to the east coast. My start is the countryside stretch and is by far the most scenic albeit if you prefer old town architecture you might not agree.
The walk starts just before Balerno High School and immediately you know that you are in the countryside. The water bubbling away is the only sound I hear apart from the birds in the trees. Traffic noise is muted. The Pentland hills are spotted from time to time on your right hand side. It is an early spring morning and the birds are in full song and dropping down in front of me to pick up material for the nest building. A dipper bobs into the running water looking for insects and grubs.

Nice property near Colinton

It is a 5 mile walk from Balerno to the visitor centre at Slateford, effectively the dividing point of the walk. As you walk past the areas of Balerno, Currie and Colinton admire some of the properties you will see, money not in short supply here.
This stretch is all tree lined bordering the river which is a fine testing fishing river for small brown trout, free to residents of Edinburgh so long as you get a permit. If you can take the short detours from the main path and walk along the tracks made by the fishermen and you will get a better feel for the Water of Leith. I could see many bunches of wild garlic as I walked but I only occasionally got a whiff, maybe just coming into season. The main path is flat easy going but can be a bit muddy in sections particularly after rain, also the mountain bikers can churn it up a bit as well.

Currie Kirk

A short distance brings you to Currie and on your right look out for the picturesque Currie kirk. The river has a history due to the milling and you can see weirs dotted along all of which would have been linked to the industrial era, a far cry from today. Many of the properties are converted industrial buildings.

Eastern Hailes tunnel

Further along I come to Colinton and Spylaw park which is at the site of an abandoned railway station. Unfortunately not much is left of the line but I was intrigued when I reached the Eastern Hailes tunnel. I wasn't expecting to go through a dark and damp tunnel but it all added to the fun. There is a now a choice according to the signs to walk the path via a small stretch of the Forth canal or go via the dells. I chose the canal path but in retrospect the dells route follows the river better and that would now be my choice.

Amongst the birds spotted in the 1st section were: dipper; robin; blackbird; song & mistle thrush; coal, blue and great tit; wood-pigeons aplenty; flash of blue a kingfisher; chaffinch; chiffchaff.

Forth Canal

I reached the visitor centre and stopped for a coffee. I presume it is run by volunteers as the only person on duty was decidedly non chatty, not what you expect from a visitor centre. There is an information room to spend some time in as well so make the stop even if you don't want a refreshment.
The woodland section is now behind you and the next 7 miles are more akin to city scopes albeit you are still following the river.

The walk takes you past an interesting graveyard and on your right you realise the grey drab walls with barb wire is the perimeter of Saughton prison. Opposite allotments are starting to colour with plants coming through all lovingly tended. I am told the waiting list for these allotments is huge. This is not the most salubrious are of Edinburgh so just take care if walking alone. I now reach Saughton gardens where it is clear a lot of work and money has gone into upgrading this and a good job they have done.

A short distance ahead brings you to Murrayfield and the home of Scottish rugby. Roseburn park is next to be crossed with its skillful graffiti Edinburgh style.
At Roseburn the walk crosses a main road but also here there are a number of small shops/pubs if you want some refreshments and a break from walking.

The next stretch from Roseburn through to the Dean village area and onwards to Stockbridge was my 2nd favourite section after the 1st woodland section. The walk meanders through some of the nicest inner city areas you will ever come across. Urban fishermen spotted after the brown trout which were rising to feed on a hatch, lunch?

'Lunch' not just for the trout and at Stockbridge my tummy needs filling so I find a small deli which I think was called simply '33'. The focaccia filled with goats cheese, grilled peppers and pesto, heated, cost £4 and was delicious. I felt sorry for anyone I spoke to later as the garlic was strong. I passed on the cakes but the array of baking looked superb, I could have eaten a bit of everything. 
The final section leaves the apparent property wealth and meanders through areas currently being redeveloped or in some cases in need of redevelopment. It's all a bit industrial and not as prosperous as the previous sections. 

On reflection it might be better starting here and heading towards the countryside. The irony being when you reach the dock area of Leith you quickly realise yuppie money is going into here in a big way. The docks are being redeveloped into flats which  are expensive, there are Michelin star restaurants, a new shopping centre and other tourist attractions. Plenty of places around here to relax after your walk. The only disappointment is that there is no apparent end to the walk. You know you are at Leith docks area and the guide indicates that the Victorian bridge is where it finishes but there are no signs that I could see. Surely you start and finish a walk with signage?

I had a good day on this walk which took me took places and views of Edinburgh that I had not seen before from this perspective. There a couple of sections less inspiring than others but you are going through a city and the route does give you some spectacular views of Edinburgh and its properties/population that makes it well worth it. Including my breaks it was about a 5 hour walk.
Now time to find a bus back to the centre and a beer (or two) at The Cafe Royal, one of the best Victorian pubs in the centre of Edinburgh, if you have never visited give it a go. Not the cheapest but the surroundings are well worth it.

Ayrshire Coastal Path Dunure - Ayr

Another cracking short walk along the coastal path. I was in two minds about doing this today as high tide was not in my favour being due at noon. The guide indicated 2 possible areas of tidal barriers but what the hell I decided I wanted the walk.

Heads of Ayr & Greenan castle

On public transport today and arrived at Ayr bus station with a wait of around half an hour for the Dunure bus so a quick decision was made and I walked the route in reverse.
The weather was reasonable, dull and slightly chilly but the forecast was for an improvement as the day progressed.
A short walk took me down to the beach to the spot where I finished the Troon - Ayr section. 
There is a walk along the beach for about a mile until you reach the crossing over the River Doon. It was early so only a few dog walkers and joggers sharing the beach, all of us avoiding the council tractor cleaning the beach. One advantage in walking this way is that you get a good view of the way ahead via the Heads of Ayr along with the Carrick hills behind.

Greenan castle

Once across the bridge go back onto the beach. In winter this can be a good spot for bird watchers but apart from the normal collection of swans a pair of teal were the only ones around. The beach is an easy walk the only detours being to avoid the rotting seaweed.
The first viewpoint is the ruin of Greenan castle, particularly imposing when standing directly below the cliffs, looking up and hoping nothing cascades down. The tide has not hindered progress and I manage to go round the rocks ahead. If the tide is too high there is a clear alternative slightly inland.

Gorse in bloom

The beach route now passes the caravan park which once was the famous Butlins. There are quite a few more people around this stretch. I have now reached the Heads of Ayr and it is 11.30, half an hour before high tide. Today is a calm tide with the waves gently lapping in and I am optimistic about going round the bottom of the cliffs. However a couple of minutes later I talk to a couple of guys enjoying their sandwich. They had walked from Dunure and looking forward they had decided not to go the sea route in case they got trapped but instead had trampled across some muddy fields.

The trapped goat

I decided to not follow their route but to climb up to the top of the Heads which was a bonus as the views were tremendous AND a goat was rescued possibly life saving. I walked across the end of the golf course into some woods. There was a barbed wire fence clearly discouraging walkers from this option. In the trees I could hear bleating which sounded like a distressed animal. I followed the sound clambering through low trees and brambles, not so easy with the rucksack catching stuff and came across this fellow with its head stuck in the narrow squares of the wire fence. Its horns were catching on the wire stopping it getting back. There was a lot of wool around suggesting it had been stuck for a while. A scramble across the barbed wire to get ahead of it. Now a firm grip of the horns, quite a few twists and tugs, angling its head and free it now was, a shake of the head and a thank you normal bleat and there it was wondering what had happened and thinking about food.

Selfie at trig point don't step back!!

A clamber up the hill following the fence plus climbing a few more barbed ones and I reached the top of the hill which now gives super views all round. Looking back I hadn't realised just how big the caravan park is until viewed from here. A hare jumped out of the trees just ahead. The going is now straight forward and you can follow the hill top fence getting spectacular views out to sea. I come across a trig point situated just over the fence. I go over the fence, barbed again, to take a selfie and realise there is a long drop immediately behind the trig, so be very careful if you do likewise. Looking down from time to time it looks as if I could have made it via the beach route but with these views I am happy with my choice.

Steep drops ahead if you go to near the edge

Following the fence there are now full views of Bracken Bay and the route ahead. Keep following the fence until you reach the track that runs in front of the caravan park for a short stretch. Its a bit boggy here but ok if you watch your steps. The next stretch joins the old railway line, a huge gouge through the granite shows the scale of what was attempted and abandoned many years ago. The gorse is in full bloom so vivid yellow flowers brighten up the day. Its needed as the weather has not really improved, still a bit chilly on the hands. An almost albino pheasant jumps out, never seen one like that before. Beautiful yellowhammers are abundant, the first of the season for me. Other birds spotted on this stretch were:robin; chaffinch; pied wagtail; ravens and crows. There are said to be Peregrines on the cliffs but I didn't see them today.

Looking south to Bracken bay and the way ahead

I cross an open field, thankfully only sheep, no cattle today. This leads to the steps that descend into Fisherton Bay. Apparently these were laid by Ayr Rotary Club, well done folks. They are starting to disintegrate in places as the seeping water takes its toll eroding the ground surrounding some of the steps.

Steps to Fisherton bay

The bay at times is shingle and easy walking with the usual amazing variety of rocks. It never fails to amaze me the colours and shapes of the rocks and pebbles around this coast. If this is your hobby you could spend a long time here.

Rocky shoreline

I have now reached the last possible tide blockage and there is no alternative other than to turn back if the tide is too high. Fortunately, albeit it is high tide, I can scramble across the rocks at the small waterfall. You can see from the picture that the water would be a challenge, wet feet time. However I can see that with big waves coming in with a high tide this would be a totally different scenario. 

The small waterfall

Out at sea cormorants, eider and some gulls are the only obvious birdlife. I thought I might spot a seal but not be.
A short rocky walk leads to a short boggy uphill section and when I reach the top I can see Dunure castle in the distance. 

Dunure castle

This section is marked by white painted stones as the cattle would knock down posts. Cattle, immediately dark thoughts go through my brain, but again none to be seen.
A short stint leads to Dunure harbour where as I arrive a yacht is sailing out leaving only four small boats in the harbour. A sign of the times. There is a pub and cafe here. 

Dunure

A short stroll from the harbour brings me to Dunure castle and the end of today's section. About 9 miles in a relaxed 3 hours 30 minutes. Again a great short walk with magnificent views. The bus is due in about 20 minutes so no long waits this afternoon.

Dunure harbour