Monday 27 April 2015

Pitlochry to Rannoch Station cycle

Rannoch Station
Today was my chosen day to complete a bike ride that I had earmarked for some time. My only concern was my ageing body as already this week I have waded a river on 2 full days salmon fishing and completed two hill climbs and no day off yet. Muscles were feeling a little sore but as the forecast was good off I went.
I had thought about wearing shorts due to the blue sky but decided on leggings which turned out to be the correct decision as despite the blue sky I had a cool headwind for at least half the ride. I had a choice of going the north side of the lochs Tummel and Rannoch which follows the main road or go via the quieter back-roads on the south. As Mrs B was taking the car to the other end it was best to stick to the main route.
The bungee jump cage
We are staying at the south end of Pitlochry so my start was a ride up the main street of Pitlochry, from previous experience always the most dangerous section of the ride. The other day I had the wind behind me and flew up to the Tummel bridge, today with the headwind it was a bit more laboured.
As I crossed the bridge I could hear a terrified scream and laughter. Somebody was doing the bungee jump from the platform below the bridge, good on them as I'm not brave enough to do it. The stretch between here and the 'Queen's view' is typical winding Highland road, climbing through an ancient forest as the road constantly ascends. The gradient was not that severe, my lungs and breathing were fine but my thighs were telling me a days rest prior to this might have helped. However, on and upwards I went, a red squirrel climbs a tree to my right. As it is early in the day there is minimal traffic on the road which is perfect as this stretch is the worst for cars speeding round blind corners.
1st sighting Schiehallion
I cycle past the 'view' carpark, visitors there already but no stopping for me, a short climb and I break the tree cover and get my first glimpse of my favourite mountain, Schiehallion, the hill of the fairies.
The views are what you do this ride for and on this stretch I am looking down onto Loch Tummel and Schiehallion is always in view, slightly snow covered. I go through the hamlet of Strathtummel, the hotel looks welcoming and the Belhaven beer sign tempting but far too early.
River Tummel
I stop to take a photo and spot a dead badger on the other side of the fence. It looks in good condition and presumably only recently killed, probably by a car and crawled away to die, always a sad sight.
Loch Rannoch
I follow the road to Tummel bridge passing a view caravan parks. As it's name suggests there is a bridge, two in fact. By far the best is the ancient stone bridge built by General Wade in 1730, pedestrian only.
The road cuts away from the loch but you still have running water on your left as the road follows the River Tummel. Suddenly a nice twisting corkscrew downhill section at speed with a hairpin makes me dream of a Tour descent, a nice thrill it was. 
I stop at Craig Varr to take a photo. As I look up I think it would be nice framed with an eagle above. Unbelievably, before I could get the camera out an eagle appeared out of the blue sky, wings folded in a dive going behind the hill. No time to get glasses out and frame a shot I just pointed upwards and fired off a couple of shots. Later I checked and I had the eagle in them but far too small and not sharp enough to do anything about it.
More nice views as I pass Dunalastair Water and I come into Kinloch Rannoch. This roughly my half way point and I meet Mrs B who is heading for a cafe which I decline just in case legs stiffen up.
Glencoe hills over Rannoch Moor
At the edge of town Loch Rannoch opens up with a magnificent view right down the loch with the snowy hills of Glencoe prominent at the end.
The ride along Loch Rannoch was the flattest section of the ride and thankfully no head wind. Next to no traffic, fantastic views what is not to enjoy about this, great to be alive. The hills of Glencoe constantly in view.
At the end of the loch I actually see people, a couple of caravans are parked at the side and from the fishing rods on the bank I presume that they are pike anglers. Bridge of Gaur is the next hamlet. If you were doing a circular ride of Loch Rannoch turn left here but I am going straight on towards Rannoch Station.
The road has begun to twist and turn as well as climbing. It is actually the short sharp gradients that are now taking their toll on my thighs. The terrain is now opening out to be typical moorland, wide open space, tumbling water in the shallow rocky river, looks good for an evenings trout fishing.

I finally arrive at Rannoch Station, a beautiful spot but for some reason I had it in my mind that would be a totally open moorland scene. Not quite the case but certainly not a disappointment. This has to be one of the most spectacular and isolated railway stations in Scotland. It is an operational station but only a few trains run a day. It is part of the West Highland line and the station first opened for business over a century ago in 1894.
Thankfully it has a splendid tearoom which was very welcome and I recommend the home baking to anyone, the carrot cake was just the sugar rush I needed. We sat outside and were rewarded with a small herd of red deer hinds clearly visible in the field below.
Looking back Rannoch Moor tip of Schiehallion in distance
The ride was just over 38 miles and I would recommend it to anyone. My legs were feeling it with the gradients and the wind. I'm sure it would have been a better return trip but the bike is going on the car for my return trip. Next time I will have the rest before and enjoy a complete circuit. If you get the chance please do it I don't think you will be disappointed.
Schiehallion from Rannoch Bridge





Loch Rannoch

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