River of Leith Walkway

A change of coast for today's ramble and one that I can unequivocally recommend. If you are to pick a walk that runs from the outskirts of a large city, through its centre out to the other side and only occasionally realise you are in a big city then without a doubt this is one to pick.
For those unfamiliar with this walk it runs from the countryside setting of Balerno to the waterfront of Leith. The formal route mileage states a 12 mile walk but with a few diversions mine was just over 13. The great advantage of this walk is that you can join and leave it almost anywhere along the route so you can do it in one walk or make a few walks out of it. The walk does cross some roads in the city but it would be very difficult to lose your way.

River near Balerno

The walk follows the river course almost in its entirety throughout the outskirts and the city of Edinburgh. There is a good route map/guide, costing only £1, which is available from the information centre at Slateford which, if you can, I recommend you buy beforehand. It's not just a map it's also packed with information about the route. The walkway is a good path throughout and almost totally flat.

I decided to complete this in one stint and it suited me best to start the walk from the Balerno end, which meant I was walking from the west to the east coast. My start is the countryside stretch and is by far the most scenic albeit if you prefer old town architecture you might not agree.
The walk starts just before Balerno High School and immediately you know that you are in the countryside. The water bubbling away is the only sound I hear apart from the birds in the trees. Traffic noise is muted. The Pentland hills are spotted from time to time on your right hand side. It is an early spring morning and the birds are in full song and dropping down in front of me to pick up material for the nest building. A dipper bobs into the running water looking for insects and grubs.

Nice property near Colinton

It is a 5 mile walk from Balerno to the visitor centre at Slateford, effectively the dividing point of the walk. As you walk past the areas of Balerno, Currie and Colinton admire some of the properties you will see, money not in short supply here.
This stretch is all tree lined bordering the river which is a fine testing fishing river for small brown trout, free to residents of Edinburgh so long as you get a permit. If you can take the short detours from the main path and walk along the tracks made by the fishermen and you will get a better feel for the Water of Leith. I could see many bunches of wild garlic as I walked but I only occasionally got a whiff, maybe just coming into season. The main path is flat easy going but can be a bit muddy in sections particularly after rain, also the mountain bikers can churn it up a bit as well.

Currie Kirk

A short distance brings you to Currie and on your right look out for the picturesque Currie kirk. The river has a history due to the milling and you can see weirs dotted along all of which would have been linked to the industrial era, a far cry from today. Many of the properties are converted industrial buildings.

Eastern Hailes tunnel

Further along I come to Colinton and Spylaw park which is at the site of an abandoned railway station. Unfortunately not much is left of the line but I was intrigued when I reached the Eastern Hailes tunnel. I wasn't expecting to go through a dark and damp tunnel but it all added to the fun. There is a now a choice according to the signs to walk the path via a small stretch of the Forth canal or go via the dells. I chose the canal path but in retrospect the dells route follows the river better and that would now be my choice.

Amongst the birds spotted in the 1st section were: dipper; robin; blackbird; song & mistle thrush; coal, blue and great tit; wood-pigeons aplenty; flash of blue a kingfisher; chaffinch; chiffchaff.

Forth Canal

I reached the visitor centre and stopped for a coffee. I presume it is run by volunteers as the only person on duty was decidedly non chatty, not what you expect from a visitor centre. There is an information room to spend some time in as well so make the stop even if you don't want a refreshment.
The woodland section is now behind you and the next 7 miles are more akin to city scopes albeit you are still following the river.

The walk takes you past an interesting graveyard and on your right you realise the grey drab walls with barb wire is the perimeter of Saughton prison. Opposite allotments are starting to colour with plants coming through all lovingly tended. I am told the waiting list for these allotments is huge. This is not the most salubrious are of Edinburgh so just take care if walking alone. I now reach Saughton gardens where it is clear a lot of work and money has gone into upgrading this and a good job they have done.

A short distance ahead brings you to Murrayfield and the home of Scottish rugby. Roseburn park is next to be crossed with its skillful graffiti Edinburgh style.
At Roseburn the walk crosses a main road but also here there are a number of small shops/pubs if you want some refreshments and a break from walking.

The next stretch from Roseburn through to the Dean village area and onwards to Stockbridge was my 2nd favourite section after the 1st woodland section. The walk meanders through some of the nicest inner city areas you will ever come across. Urban fishermen spotted after the brown trout which were rising to feed on a hatch, lunch?

'Lunch' not just for the trout and at Stockbridge my tummy needs filling so I find a small deli which I think was called simply '33'. The focaccia filled with goats cheese, grilled peppers and pesto, heated, cost £4 and was delicious. I felt sorry for anyone I spoke to later as the garlic was strong. I passed on the cakes but the array of baking looked superb, I could have eaten a bit of everything. 
The final section leaves the apparent property wealth and meanders through areas currently being redeveloped or in some cases in need of redevelopment. It's all a bit industrial and not as prosperous as the previous sections. 

On reflection it might be better starting here and heading towards the countryside. The irony being when you reach the dock area of Leith you quickly realise yuppie money is going into here in a big way. The docks are being redeveloped into flats which  are expensive, there are Michelin star restaurants, a new shopping centre and other tourist attractions. Plenty of places around here to relax after your walk. The only disappointment is that there is no apparent end to the walk. You know you are at Leith docks area and the guide indicates that the Victorian bridge is where it finishes but there are no signs that I could see. Surely you start and finish a walk with signage?

I had a good day on this walk which took me took places and views of Edinburgh that I had not seen before from this perspective. There a couple of sections less inspiring than others but you are going through a city and the route does give you some spectacular views of Edinburgh and its properties/population that makes it well worth it. Including my breaks it was about a 5 hour walk.
Now time to find a bus back to the centre and a beer (or two) at The Cafe Royal, one of the best Victorian pubs in the centre of Edinburgh, if you have never visited give it a go. Not the cheapest but the surroundings are well worth it.