I have driven through Muirkirk countless times on my way to England, usually very early morning and late at night, mainly on business and as I drove through I looked up at the cairn (see later) and thought one day I will climb you. Well today was that day. Because of other plans and the weather it could only be today this week. The forecast was still for strong winds but it should be dry. Sadly Mrs could not join me as planned due to a sore back.
As I drove to Muirkirk the roads were wet, recent rain showers, and the clouds were scudding overhead, fast, grey and low. However, as I neared the start I could see the cairn at the top of the hill, at least it was not covered in cloud, a good omen.
Being a prat I had forgot to pick up my guidebook but I did have my OS map. I recalled from last nights read that you could start at Kames. I pulled in to the lay-by and expected to see a board map which I remembered reading about last night. There were plenty of boards about the history of the village but none about the walk. Mobile out but no 4g signal so no Google checking. OS map suggested a parking place nearer Muirkirk so off I went and found a starting point with a board map, as above. When I read the book later you can start at Kames after all.
With the wind howling I put on my over-trousers but decided no gaiters.
Off I went up the path, over a stile and you quickly realise you are walking on old coal mines. There are frequent points fenced off where old mine shafts or landslip has opened up the ground. Then you look around at the grassy hollows and think wow, stick to the path even though some of these openings are very close to the so called path.
Danger |
Quickly you are only aware of yourself, heavy breathing, and the sound of the moorland birds. A peewit flies past, glorious fliers and a beautiful sound. A sand martin, my first of the year also.
Now I was getting a good view of the hill and the path appears to follow a stone dyke/fence line, useful if the weather deteriorates to find your way back.
Typical terrain |
The good path soon deteriorates into a boggy section where you just have to watch your feet. There is wooden boarding dotted about indiscriminately but these are often surrounded by a gloopy mass. At one of them I put my walking pole in to judge the surface and it went in over half way, at least 3 foot of whatever. I would not want to clean or smell anyone going that deep in that.
However, the walking continued with the birds singing. Skylarks, meadow pipits and more Wheatear than I have seen for a long time, as well as menacing big black ravens gliding low over the heathland looking for the nests of the aforementioned. I read recently that ravens have been a success story but the effect on other animals including sheep is concerning.
In one of the small waters there is a full sheep's head with its bones lying nearby stripped clean. It makes me think as I do fill my water bottle up from time to time in hill streams, nasty tummy bug at best might await.
Mrs Red Grouse |
I here a familiar call and a male red grouse appears closely followed by a female. I tried to get a snap of the male but he was camera shy and only the female posed for a few seconds. Got a few more sightings of these as I went up the hill, the OS map does have grouse butts, not sure if they are active.
The path is now rocky in places and I reach the false cairn. Looking back I spot another walker but a long way back.
For the last stretch I have to pull my hood up as the wind is strengthening and cold. The path is rocky but good and I make my way to the huge boulder cairn and the trig point set apart. On a separate knoll lies another large pile of boulders but not formed. The cairn has a plaque and I remember that this is a war memorial and not the actual summit. Grand indeed and a fitting memory of the local people who died in the Great War.
Cairn Table memorial & trig |
Memorial |
It is amazing how much better you pick your line on the way down and I managed to miss more of the boggy stuff. I passed the other walker that I spotted earlier but he clearly did not want to chat so onward downhill. The wind was now actually worse, right in my face and I was getting very cold hands.
Still a quick descent and before I knew it back at the carpark. My Tom Tom watch GPS said 4.92 miles and I was up and down in 2 and a half hours. The OS map has the height at 592 metres, a sub 2000 category. No hill is a bad hill and I would return on a better viewing day as there is undoubtedly better views than I got, but mine were still good enough.
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