Saturday 18 May 2019

Tarmachan and the Witches Hat

Hill: Meall nan Tarmachan
Type: Munro
Ascent: 923m

There are days when you just know that the walk is going to be a good one and today was just that.
To avoid the hotel breakfast buffet fighting between the coach loads of German & Dutch that arrived last night I was up early and one of the first in the queue, no sunbeds here pal!
After two days of frustrating no sight and no feel salmon fishing I was ready to get back to the hills.

Grannom hatch
But before I cover the walk, yesterday, on the River Tay, I witnessed a once in a lifetime experience as a biblical Grannom hatch engulfed the river. This lasted for at least 20 minutes and if I said there were a million insects I might well be underestimating, it was vast and numerous, a never to be forgotten natural history event.
After a too big Scottish breakfast I left the Ben Lawers car park and was heading up the Munro of Meall nan Tarmachan. It is better known as a ridge walk but on my way home this was meant to be just the Munro.
Starting path at bottom of carpark
Early start and only a couple of walkers ahead that I could see, found out later a solo guy had been hiding somewhere and saw us pass!!
The sun was out with warmth and so were the butterflies: Peacock: small and large Whites as well as my first sighting this year of the orange tip, a real favourite.

Meall nan Tarmachan from the moor
Early on the walk the birds were also prominent, a male cuckoo calling my first since Sutherland. Red grouse honking. Skylark and Meadow Pipit aplenty. Once again the early solitary walker catches the wildlife.
From below I thought these sacks were a line of sheep lol
On the hillside a line of white dots that I originally thought were sheep are actually bags of stones for the Trust when they start upgrading the path again.
Despite my huffing and puffing I was making good time and caught up the two ahead (plus dog) just at the deer fence. During our chat they encouraged me to go past the top and on to the Witches Hat (Meall Garbh).

Ridge and Witches hat prominent
As you climb your right hand side gives constant views of the Lawers Munros and the left is the start of the ridge to the Witches Hat.
This last section is a steep climb up a well made track and soon the vista is expansive. A slight back turn takes me to the Munro top, 1 hour 32m pleased with that. The village of Killin looking distant far below.

Tarmachan cairn looking along ridge
But as they said the view over to the Witches Hat  looks irresistible. I had made better than expected time, reckoned 45 minutes across there and back, so off I headed.
Beautiful day for a high level walk
A well trodden trail, superb views, isolation, airy at the top and great views down the glen, a pair of dotterel close by, and red deer far down below in the glen. A 360 degree view to take time, soak it in and thank god you are the one to see it.
Dam below
Frustrated at knowing that I couldn’t do the full ridge today I headed back the way I came but on reflection, looking back from the descent, I could have descended directly from the Witches Hat, left that for another day.
Descending towards Loch Tay
Stopped and chatted to a few folk as they ascended, smug that I was descending and before long I was back at the car. Water bottle emptied it was very warm on the lower slopes.

Wildlife: Wheatear; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Dotterell; Red Deer; Cuckoo; Red Grouse. Peacock, Orange tip and large White butterflies.
Time: 3.32
Ascent: 2498ft (907m)
Distance: 6.39m (10.5k)



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