Monday, 9 September 2019

Beinn Bheula a challenging but fun Corbett circuit

Hill: Beinn Bheula
Category: Corbett
Height: 779m

Am I in dreamland I wonder, as I pull the curtains to see a blue sky morning, it seems an eternity since that happened. 
Not dreaming as it turned out it was a perfect day for walking, crisp air giving fantastic views from an excellent but tough walk. I can't remember a descent with such varied awkward walking and challenging terrain, still all part of the day out.
First view of Beinn Bheula
Still glorious weather when we set out initially following the Cowal Way hard track until we diverted left following the Way into the woods. I remember the Cowal Way across the water being a boggy trench and this side is no different. The path was a slippery deep mud section, the sides where navigable not much better, a few laughs when bodies slip.
Impressive falls
The Way route climbs up the sides of the very impressive waterfalls of the Struth Ban burn, more impressive with all the recent rain. My first mishap, heel slips and a very wet and muddy backside!!
The track does not improve but before long we head across the hill towards the distant fence, our guide for a short section.
Follow the fence but still rough walking
The views looking back are mighty impressive, all 4 Corbett’s across the water stand out against the blue sky. 
Loch Goil and the Corbetts
When we reach the crags at 636 the views open out across Argyll with the Mull hills looking remarkably close, just stunning, this is what I do it for.
Heading up to the gulley
The final section up the steep and narrow gulley is a leg muscle burner, hemmed in between Creag a‘ Bhuic. Checking the GPS later some of the gradients almost reach 50% and much is in the 40%, steep indeed. But stop and look back down, what a view.
Trig with Mull hills in the distance
Thankfully it eases of and the trig soon reached, very glad to see it and what a spot to have lunch looking down the coastal waters and across to Arran. What can you see, well everything today.
Great spot for lunch
A sample included the peaks of Luss, Tyndrum, Jura, Cruachan, possibly Glencoe as well as all the local stuff, what a spot. We did debate if Ben Nevis was just in sight, a maybe!
The ridge
We opted to walk along the ridge then descend via Lochan nan Cnaimh and make it a circular route. Additionally to look for the WW2 plane wreckage. If I thought some of the ascent was rough, as mentioned earlier the best/worst was to come.
We followed the ridge for a bit but started the descent too soon looking for the wreckage that someone in the group thought was close by. As it turned out if we had just followed the Walkhighlands route we would have came across part of it.
Wreckage
Steep grassy slopes with plenty of hidden hollows and holes careful walking.
We then found part of the wreckage ‘a Grumman Marklett fighter struck the mountain here in 1940, killing the pilot‘. 
Below us Lochan nan Cnaimh stands out, the only issue being more of the same moorland tramp with all its traps. Lots of deer around and their weight created extra hole traps.
Luss hills behind the Lochan
Finally we reached the loch, it looks a great place for a camp, a spot of evening fishing and wild swimming if you fancy. There is a small building across the water not sure what that is for up here. 
The ground has plenty of blaeberries to pick and eat, very nice indeed, blue tongues Pict style. 
Open moorland descent not as easy as it looks
Super views looking back up the hill. 
We leave the Lochan and head to the nearby forest and the real fun begins.
We started to follow the burn but the track was an eroded gloopy mud slide, dangerous to slip down into the fast running rocky waters of the burn.
So into the forest for a patch. If you’re a fungi fan with knowledge this floor was littered with them, many varieties. Deep slopes and if you slipped and crashed into these trees there was a good chance of a branch impaling you so again care and concentration.
Thankfully nobody fell in
The burn water was running high so the crossing was an obstacle but despite cameras out nobody fell in.
The firebreak section started reasonable enough with a faint path but it was no walk in the park, rough going. When we exited the forest there was a trail for a bit but it soon became a dangerous walk including clambering over large trees and many hidden holes.
We eventually found a better track about 5 metres above us, thank the lord and followed it back to the hard track near the falls.
Super views over Lochgoilhead and the Arrochar hills on the descent.
An amazing walk and probably the hardest Corbett circuit I have done, this fully justified its tick.
A cracking day with excellent company, hopefully a few more Autumn days like this.

Wildlife: Buzzard; Meadow pipit; Frogs; Vole; Red deer
Time: 4.49
Ascent: 2678ft 
Distance: 7.93m 

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