An ambition achieved.....Buachaille Etive Mor

Hill: Buachaille Etive Mor (Big Herdsman of Etive)....Stob Dearg (Red Peak) (1021m) Stob na Broige (Peak of the shoe) (956m)

Type: Munro x2

After so many years of waiting I finally got to ascend Buachaille Etive Mor's two Munros and I am so glad to say it did not disappoint, it was a spectacular walk. The pyramid pointed peak as you drive up the A82 has given me many a moment of pleasure/longing and now the day had arrived. I think that it is the most iconic/spectacular view of a mountain in Scotland, feel free to disagree.

Morning gloom yes there is a big mountain behind the hut

The walk got off to an ignominious start as the clouds were so low that very little could be seen. But the humidity was high and the midges were there by the million. Slight exaggeration but not quite, kit change was horrendous.

I was walking with a friends group so the pace/ability of strangers was my major concern particularly when the forecasted cloud would disappear and temperatures rise to unnatural temperatures for us Scots.

So under midge attack a prompt start was made and off we went passing the climbers hut, still in the gloom. 

Sctree or track

This is one very steep ascent into Corrie na Tulaich, but is better now that the constructed track saved us the continuous scree slope, discomforting strength sapping two steps forward and one back. When your moaning think of that and thank your lucky stars, In saying that the current track route is still steep and unstable at times but less likelihood of someone above dislodging a boulder which only goes one way, down and giving you a sore one.

Still in cloud high up

Cloudy it might be but cold it was not, the sweat was running heavily and all were soon puffing and panting. Water had to be conserved as our only opportunity to refill was on the descent off Stob na Broige and going by the burn beside us on the ascent there would not be much water around.

Ben Nevis plus Grey Corries appearing

A slow steady progress up the good track saw us passing and then being passed by various walkers as we all took our turn to pause and refresh and enjoy. Looking back, still clouds hanging to our ascent route. But above the clouds Wow. Ben Nevis, Grey Corries and many more tops peak out, magnificent.

Looking upwards small dots scrambling around show how much more still to be done. As we ascended the top section it became a find your own way up to the bealach and the cairn. Not hard but some hands on scrambling with care required. It did give a bit of stage fright to some of the group but they made it. No matter your fitness level there is relief to have got that section over and done with.

From the bealach Black Mount & Etive hills

The southern hills are covered in cloud but it is still an impressive sight.

Climb to Stob Dearg

A short break and from here there are clear views of a rocky/stony sometimes visible track that takes us up to the top of Stob Dearg. 

Top platea where ridge narrows

A short walk on to the final outcrop, where Curved Ridge climbers would meet the top. The feeling of great exposure is taken away today by the high clouds.

The whaleback of the Corbett Beinn a' Chrulaiste rising out of the clouds

Sadly this is where I had anticipated best views except they are still under cloud cover, where is Rannoch Moor?  

Looking down to the cars at Altnafeadh

How many times have I driven the road and looked at the massive buttresses and crags and wanted to stand at the end of them? The Glencoe Ski  Black Mount Munro hills, Schiehallion, Tyndrum hills etc all tops peaking through the clouds so not all lost.

Etive Beag, Bidean & Eagach much clearer in life than photos

But ,the real rewards are in the other direction, cloud free. A perfect view of the full Aonach Eagach ridge, never seen it from this perspective. Etive Beag so close you could touch and beyond it the mighty Bidean nam Bian, I am in my glory as I gorge on this beautiful landscape. 

View of Stob na Doire from Stob Dearg

Stob na Doire on left & Stob Coire Altrium on right

The sting in this walk is that there are not just two Munros but two Munro tops. From Dearg you now have a 4km ridge walk which starts with a descent and then reascent to the Munro top of Stob na Doire. For the effort involved this deserves to be a Munro in its own right. As we lunched at its top a couple appeared, a not so fit looking guy boasting loudly about their ascent time, so fast compared to expectations! The older guy seemed put out when told this was not the 2nd Munro. Dissing us him and his partner (daughter I think) disappeared back down to the ascent route. No doubt telling everyone he has completed the big walk when he is far short. Wonder how many Walkhighlands blue flags are similarly false?

Beginning the steep descent off Stob na doire

Now refreshed there remained a very steep descent of stone and scree. It is only when you look back you realise just how steep. 

The dangerous cliffs of Stob Coire Altruim

Then the slow plod up point 941m Stob Coire Altrium. Some of the group thought that the two cairns in sight were the top, oh no, the hill peaking out further on is the real top.

Stob na Broige finally can be seen its been hidden all walk

A short descent then narrow stony track starts the climbing again. Gradient and distances fine but the day is now energy sapping and progress is slower.

View down Glen and Loch Etive

With relief the top is reached greeting us with excellent views down Loch Etive with Ben Starva looking significantly higher than us, I know it is about 200m bigger but it must be a light illusion? The sun haze meant we could not see Mull etc but still good enough for the eyes if not the camera. Just like Stob Dearg this is an impressive peak but you are not aware of it from here. On three sides there are steep crags and drops not recommended for hillwalkers.

Looking back on the ridge just walked

More food time before the descent and finding the off track back down to the Lairig Gartain (Pass of the Ticks!!). 

Descent into the glen of ticks!

Initially the track is once again steep and stony with sections where sliding on the bum is required across angled granite slabs. This could be extremely tricky in wet/icy conditions. It is tough on my dodgy knee and as expected the temperature is soaring in the confined space. Thankfully a small pool held enough water for a refill, risky but no choice. Dehydration and heat stroke a real possibility on a day like this.

Long walk back through the glen

The glen finally reached a long walk out before the reaching the cars. I met a couple of ladies who had taken the circular route around Etive Beag. They admitted that had taken on too much but were revived a bit when their bottles were refilled from the burn. 

From the car at least it can be seen now

A walk that was long anticipated and it did not disappoint, overjoyed as the views were so spectacular. The walk probably took about an hour longer than If I was soloing but that is the price of group walking. A stunning day and now the real concern was would I get to the Green Welly before the off licence closed, I really must have a cold beer.

Ascent: 1150m

Distance: 14.6km

Time: 8.14

Wildlife: Meadow Brown; Raven; Dotterel