A fabulous short ramble.....Glencoe Lochan

 Walk: Glencoe Lochan

On a short trip with the good lady I was looking for some short but scenic rambles that she could enjoy and this looked like a perfect opportunity to explore a rarely visited part of Glencoe village.

There is a well appointed car park but be warned it is a pay car park that does not take cash/card, mobile phone only payment system that come with dodgy reputations so you might be better to park in the village and walk the ‘hard’ extra 5 minutes.

This short circuit was a blockbuster for this time of the year, a short option but one that I would highly recommend for anyone wanting to stretch their legs on their way north or staying in the area.

Good lady eager to get on with it

What's good about it? Actually rather a lot. It is mainly a woodland walk, the trees being planted back in the 1800’s by The Earl of Strathcona to make his Canadian wife feel less homesick, didn't work as she went back to Canada. Still there are a lot of impressive trees, unfortunately a lot non native along with invasive shrubs . Throw in a small but very scenic lochan. There are 3 official coloured walking routes but our ramble incorporated all three.

She is doing well

But still more to come

Pap of Glencoe from the top of the trail

Initially a short but steep climb through the trees, up the blue ‘Mountain Trail’, steep for the good lady, before we got some hill views dominated by the Pap of Glencoe but also more views across Loch Leven.

Down to the lochan and out of the trees, Beinn a Bheithir was silhouetted on the calm water, stunning Autumn view.

No sooner up before we were heading back down to the lochan. We had seen some Redwings in the trees up top but out in the open they were flying over the lochan in huge numbers, hundreds were seen.

From another angle looking back is The Pap

Rounding the lochan a Great Spotted Woodpecker was hammering away, so loud. I cannot remember hearing one so obvious like this at this time of the year, always associated them knocking with Spring. It is a beautiful spot with Beinn a Bheithir silhouetted on the calm water. That brings back memories of a very hot day.

On the final section this American invasive shrub dominated, Gaultheria Shallon

Antler scrape?

The last section was another lovely woodland but at times many trees by storm damage. Mighty Douglas Firs and Sequoias amidst our traditional trees like Ash, Beech, Rowan, Oak etc. Also passed this which was the right height for a red deer to scrape its antlers against.

Looking across to the Corbett Mam na Gualainn with interesting clouds forming

Back at the car zoomed in on these dramatic Altocumulus clouds

A cracking short term ramble which highlighted the beauty and impact of a Highland woodland. The colours and structures were amazing. I was also taken by just how much bird noise there was. As it is Autumn it was obviously not the breeding season but clearly there was a lot of bonding calling going on as groups moved through the trees.

A wee ramble we will do again.

Ascent: 147m

Distance: 2.9

Time: 1.14

Wildlife: Great Spotted Woodpecker; Great Tit; Coal Tit; Long Tailed Tit; Robin;

The Big Hill dwarfed by giants delivers.....Meall Mor Glencoe

 Hill: Meall Mor (Glencoe) (Big Hill)

Type: Graham

Height: 676m

View from visitor centre

There are so many times when I driven north through Glencoe and at the far end looked at this hill and thought the views should be good. Not just good they were great. How incongruous to call a hill 'Big Hill' when it is surrounded by giants. Our ancestors certainly had a sense of humour or just knew what they were talking about. 

Black trail

There are many ways to tackle the hill and/or depending on whether you are also including the other Graham of Sgorr a' Choise (it looks a spectacular hill which I have added to my to do list). There is an option to go directly up from the visitor centre but unless you are super fit, forget it.

Pap of Glencoe

Speckled Wood

Solo hit for me today so I parked at the Glencoe visitor centre watching hordes of tourists descend from their buses heading into the centre. This caused me to mentally debate whether I should pay the £4 parking fee when all these people were here for free. Being a good citizen I reluctantly paid up so under a dark cloud I headed for the appropriately named black forest trail which after a short ascent through woods becomes the blue trail. This is now a major highway, a wide stone forestry road (I presume) and in reality a bit of a zig zag trudge through the trees. Plenty of butterflies. On the lower section they were all Speckled Woods sunning themselves on the road. Higher up it became all Scotch Argus never staying still but numerous. The odd Large White appeared. 

I turned off forestry road here

Heading for corner of trees

I had noticed on the map a track which seemed to cut the road so I exited right onto a boggy, grassy, but evident track. It was now humid and the beasties were rising from the grasses en masse not a good idea. But some nice plants.

Marsh Grass of Parnassus

I re-joined the road but almost immediately left it by crossing over and heading for the corner of the trees not too far away. Mistake number two. The terrain was deforested and was a death trap. What should have been 5 minutes was a good uncomfortable 15 minutes. Every step had to be evaluated as plenty of hidden holes and boggy traps. The wood lying was now dried out and in danger of snapping plunging me down and potentially lacerating my leg. Was I glad to get over to find a boggy but open ATV track. If I had kept on the road for another couple of minutes!!

Found grass highway. Summit dark line top left

I followed the ATV track to a deer fence where the track became a faint line, god only knows where the ATV track had gone. It was steeply up the fence to reach a metal gate. The consolation was great views over Sgorr Dhearg which brought back memories and glad I wasn't doing that again.

Steep climb. Mast below with Grey Corries beyond

Sgorr a' Choise left and Sgorr Dearg right

Through the gate and now the faint track had disappeared. A steep never ending rough grassy slope was next. One of those angles you always thought you were getting there but seemingly never did. Finally a couple of large boulders was the plateau. Stunning views over Sgorr a' Choise looks a mightily impressive ridge. It was an immediate 'must do'.

A track!!

Top is on the ridge

The next section had a faint path but my eyes were not on it but instead on the huge mountains of Glencoe which filled my close vision.

A curve round to the ridge and the cairn and more very special views. The full 360 degrees did not disappoint.

Aoneach Eogach left and Bidean nam Bian

Dominated by Bidean nam Bian, that brought back good memories but also sad thoughts for the guy from Killie who died on it earlier this year. Across from it the Pap and the Aonach Eogach ridge in full profile.

Beyond the Pap the Grey Corries live up to their name but the top of The Ben is not unsurprisingly in cloud.

Another turn, looking back and over to Ardgour via the Ballachulish bridge and Loch Leven.

Finally back down to Loch Etive and the nearby hills. Yip quite a viewpoint.

Ardgour Corbetts in the distance

Green highway to the track this time

Stunning view for the walk out

Back down the same way, avoiding the deforested section, back to the car. Visited the café to find the tourist hordes had devoured all the home baking.

The hill was right in front of me so it was the long way round for my ramble but very glad I visited it, but that ridge on Sgorr looks worth an add on!!

Ascent: 726m

Distance: 13.2km

Time: 4.13

Wildlife: Chaffinch; Meadow Pipit; Speckled Wood; Scotch Argus; Large White; Gold Ringed Dragonfly; Common Blue Damselfly

An ambition achieved.....Buachaille Etive Mor

Hill: Buachaille Etive Mor (Big Herdsman of Etive)....Stob Dearg (Red Peak) (1021m) Stob na Broige (Peak of the shoe) (956m)

Type: Munro x2

After so many years of waiting I finally got to ascend Buachaille Etive Mor's two Munros and I am so glad to say it did not disappoint, it was a spectacular walk. The pyramid pointed peak as you drive up the A82 has given me many a moment of pleasure/longing and now the day had arrived. I think that it is the most iconic/spectacular view of a mountain in Scotland, feel free to disagree.

Morning gloom yes there is a big mountain behind the hut

The walk got off to an ignominious start as the clouds were so low that very little could be seen. But the humidity was high and the midges were there by the million. Slight exaggeration but not quite, kit change was horrendous.

I was walking with a friends group so the pace/ability of strangers was my major concern particularly when the forecasted cloud would disappear and temperatures rise to unnatural temperatures for us Scots.

So under midge attack a prompt start was made and off we went passing the climbers hut, still in the gloom. 

Sctree or track

This is one very steep ascent into Corrie na Tulaich, but is better now that the constructed track saved us the continuous scree slope, discomforting strength sapping two steps forward and one back. When your moaning think of that and thank your lucky stars, In saying that the current track route is still steep and unstable at times but less likelihood of someone above dislodging a boulder which only goes one way, down and giving you a sore one.

Still in cloud high up

Cloudy it might be but cold it was not, the sweat was running heavily and all were soon puffing and panting. Water had to be conserved as our only opportunity to refill was on the descent off Stob na Broige and going by the burn beside us on the ascent there would not be much water around.

Ben Nevis plus Grey Corries appearing

A slow steady progress up the good track saw us passing and then being passed by various walkers as we all took our turn to pause and refresh and enjoy. Looking back, still clouds hanging to our ascent route. But above the clouds Wow. Ben Nevis, Grey Corries and many more tops peak out, magnificent.

Looking upwards small dots scrambling around show how much more still to be done. As we ascended the top section it became a find your own way up to the bealach and the cairn. Not hard but some hands on scrambling with care required. It did give a bit of stage fright to some of the group but they made it. No matter your fitness level there is relief to have got that section over and done with.

From the bealach Black Mount & Etive hills

The southern hills are covered in cloud but it is still an impressive sight.

Climb to Stob Dearg

A short break and from here there are clear views of a rocky/stony sometimes visible track that takes us up to the top of Stob Dearg. 

Top platea where ridge narrows

A short walk on to the final outcrop, where Curved Ridge climbers would meet the top. The feeling of great exposure is taken away today by the high clouds.

The whaleback of the Corbett Beinn a' Chrulaiste rising out of the clouds

Sadly this is where I had anticipated best views except they are still under cloud cover, where is Rannoch Moor?  

Looking down to the cars at Altnafeadh

How many times have I driven the road and looked at the massive buttresses and crags and wanted to stand at the end of them? The Glencoe Ski  Black Mount Munro hills, Schiehallion, Tyndrum hills etc all tops peaking through the clouds so not all lost.

Etive Beag, Bidean & Eagach much clearer in life than photos

But ,the real rewards are in the other direction, cloud free. A perfect view of the full Aonach Eagach ridge, never seen it from this perspective. Etive Beag so close you could touch and beyond it the mighty Bidean nam Bian, I am in my glory as I gorge on this beautiful landscape. 

View of Stob na Doire from Stob Dearg

Stob na Doire on left & Stob Coire Altrium on right

The sting in this walk is that there are not just two Munros but two Munro tops. From Dearg you now have a 4km ridge walk which starts with a descent and then reascent to the Munro top of Stob na Doire. For the effort involved this deserves to be a Munro in its own right. As we lunched at its top a couple appeared, a not so fit looking guy boasting loudly about their ascent time, so fast compared to expectations! The older guy seemed put out when told this was not the 2nd Munro. Dissing us him and his partner (daughter I think) disappeared back down to the ascent route. No doubt telling everyone he has completed the big walk when he is far short. Wonder how many Walkhighlands blue flags are similarly false?

Beginning the steep descent off Stob na doire

Now refreshed there remained a very steep descent of stone and scree. It is only when you look back you realise just how steep. 

The dangerous cliffs of Stob Coire Altruim

Then the slow plod up point 941m Stob Coire Altrium. Some of the group thought that the two cairns in sight were the top, oh no, the hill peaking out further on is the real top.

Stob na Broige finally can be seen its been hidden all walk

A short descent then narrow stony track starts the climbing again. Gradient and distances fine but the day is now energy sapping and progress is slower.

View down Glen and Loch Etive

With relief the top is reached greeting us with excellent views down Loch Etive with Ben Starva looking significantly higher than us, I know it is about 200m bigger but it must be a light illusion? The sun haze meant we could not see Mull etc but still good enough for the eyes if not the camera. Just like Stob Dearg this is an impressive peak but you are not aware of it from here. On three sides there are steep crags and drops not recommended for hillwalkers.

Looking back on the ridge just walked

More food time before the descent and finding the off track back down to the Lairig Gartain (Pass of the Ticks!!). 

Descent into the glen of ticks!

Initially the track is once again steep and stony with sections where sliding on the bum is required across angled granite slabs. This could be extremely tricky in wet/icy conditions. It is tough on my dodgy knee and as expected the temperature is soaring in the confined space. Thankfully a small pool held enough water for a refill, risky but no choice. Dehydration and heat stroke a real possibility on a day like this.

Long walk back through the glen

The glen finally reached a long walk out before the reaching the cars. I met a couple of ladies who had taken the circular route around Etive Beag. They admitted that had taken on too much but were revived a bit when their bottles were refilled from the burn. 

From the car at least it can be seen now

A walk that was long anticipated and it did not disappoint, overjoyed as the views were so spectacular. The walk probably took about an hour longer than If I was soloing but that is the price of group walking. A stunning day and now the real concern was would I get to the Green Welly before the off licence closed, I really must have a cold beer.

Ascent: 1150m

Distance: 14.6km

Time: 8.14

Wildlife: Meadow Brown; Raven; Dotterel