A misty Donald Tops Circuit down Ettrick way

Hill: White Shank (DT); Smidhope Heights (DT); West Knowe (DT); Capel Fell (D); Loch Fell (D)

Type: Donald: Donald Tops

Another day to push and test my walking fitness but when I opened the curtains expecting a nice view it was a full on shade of grey.

My plan was to pick off the two Donald Tops associated with Capel Fell.

An interesting single track drive with minimal visibility praying that I would not meet anything coming my way, luckily I didn't.

Start of walk

I knew the route up to Capel Fell so the weather was not an issue just hoping it would clear. Looking at the snaps it is amazing how a modern lens makes everything so much brighter and clearer, not quite how my eyes saw it.

Phawhope Bothy

An hours trek from the car via Phawhope Bothy, utilising the Southern Upland Way, got me to the base of Capel Fell.

Fence to Capel Fell thought it would clear but not for a while

The mist was lifting with flashes of blue sky but the top was not in sight from here. Having been up Capel Fell before I knew it was a straightforward 20-25 minute grassy slog. I was following an ATV track and a fence so no difficulty. It took the 25 minutes!!

Right turn still following the fence to Smidhope Hill

On the top of Capel I was still in the mist and much colder it was, jacket on. I followed the fence as it made a right turn heading for Smidhope. This was new territory and I had not realised how much I had descended from Capel Fell until out of the gloom a steep ascent loomed into view. As we know mist and fog exaggerates everything.

Top of Smidhope

Despite my initial misgivings it actually was not too bad and beside me the fence had changed to an impressive dry stone dyke. However on reaching the top of Smidhope there was no marker to designate the summit, not unusual for Donalds.

Top of White Shank

On return mist cleared enough to look back to Smidhope

Onward in the gloom again, once more the dyke beside me reassured that I was still on track until I reached a high point and the cloud briefly lifted, there was nothing higher ahead. So final point reached and confirmed.

View from Smidhope to Capel

In terms of distance I had walked back almost level with the bothy and it would have been straightforward to make a circular walk out of it. But I wanted the longer exercise and made my way back to Capel and back down the hill.

Snap flattens out the climb had to go left then follow fence West Knowe high point on right

This was now my dilemma. I was feeling good but legs were tiring and I knew I had one other Donald top nearby. It was a question of do I return another day or do I put in a bigger shift today? As I descended from Capel the mist lifted and I could see across to West Knowe. Decision was made. I knew I would have to ascend via the Donald of Loch Fell first which was a bit of a pain and more effort but that is the price to be paid for not bagging West Knowe first time around.

West Knowe ahead on way back I cut across once over the peat hags

Whilst descending from Capel I spotted an ATV track across the way which I was able to ascend to the fence line which then took me to Loch Fell. After that it was a case of another right turn and followed the fence to West Knowe. It was no hardship as the views were excellent despite the cold wind.

Croft Head from West Knowe

Green Lowther radar ball high point in the back centre of snap

From the summit I enjoyed the scenery even spotting the golf ball on Green Lowther on the horizon. A small flock of birds suddenly appeared on the ground and the fence. At first I thought Chaffinch but no way up here until I looked closer through the zoom of the camera and they were Common Redpoll, never seen a group so high up before. I had read that there were good numbers being spotted in Scotland this winter so delighted with that.

En route I decided I would return cross country through the gorge. A bit of a descent and reascent but worth it as saved time and distance.

Into the forest for the tramp back to the car

Back to the SUW and then an hours trek back to the car. Not another person met or even spotted in the distance and on the moors next to no birdlife.

Ascent: 801m

Distance: 18.6km

Time: 5.08

Wildlife: Chaffinch; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Meadow Pipit; Buzzard; Curlew (heard); Common Redpoll;

The Three cairns ramble.....Ward Law

Hill: Ward Law

Type: Sub2k

Height: 594m

I was pleased with yesterdays long outing and despite my unsurprisingly slightly painful calves I wanted to finish my wee trip with this short but steep Sub2k, an Ettrick hill.

I was staying at the quirky Tushielaw Inn, not often that I watch the rugby with two brothers, one a local scrap merchant and the other a world travelling chef as well as a cruise ship drag artist, interesting! Yesterday for brekkie I was simply asked did I want a cooked breakfast, yes I replied. Then it arrived! After that huge breakfast I was more wary today and just asked for just a few items, lesson learned.

So properly fed I drove the short distance to start my walk. There are only a few walk reports but parking was consistently a major issue. However, looking at the map last night there seemed a more straightforward approach with parking at the community hall.

Indeed there was good parking and easy access to the hill by walking up the track between the old school and a house where there is a wooden gate. Go through to a grassy track that goes up the right hand side of the trees. Even after a lighter breakfast my body was not quite ready for this full on assault to start the walk. Only 200m but to my calves it could have been a Munro. There is heavy bracken around, dead today but I reckon the track should still be clear.

Spotted a cairn over to my left

As the ground levelled off I spotted a cairn over to my left on the ridge. So I made my way towards that firstly heading for the sheep pen. The ground was a mixture of tussocks and bog but no real issues.

Looked at map re sheep pen wrong cairn

Just straight up through the tussocks

An alarm bell began ringing in my brain from one of the walk reports about a non summit cairn so a rest break to check my map and sure enough that was not the top cairn, way off line. No damage done I just straightened my line and plodded on uphill. Apart from the sheep it was silence, the only birds spotted on the moor were a pair of ravens.

False cairn on left with a nice view to Capel Fell

Another false cairn with the real one behind it

As always a few false tops until I spotted the top of cairn slightly to my right so off I headed. As it turned out this is another non summit cairn as a much larger beast lurked behind, surrounded by a deer fence with a ladder to climb. Actually there is not much to hold on to at the top of the ladder, the wind was gusting, it was an awkward turn to get balanced for the other side.

The proper summit cairn and the top of Ward Law is a huge beast, not that the other two are shabby. I presume with it being behind a deer fence that land is not the same owner as the other cairns? The large one is marked on the map as a Jubilee Cairn. The other two likely to be shepherds cairns but very well made.

White Coomb hills appropriately white

Wind had picked up and was chilly. Good views particularly down the Ettrick valley and across to the Moffat Corbetts with a dusting of snow up high. How many Donalds can be seen from here, quite a few?

Will be heading to the hump after visiting the other cairn

All 3 cairns visited

Will the bracken cover the path when grown? Nice place to stay.

As it had been a short ramble I wandered across to the original cairn before making my way back to the car.

Objective achieved, it was pleasing to have such good views for a short outing. An excellent trip which met the needs and got things restarted. What was surprising was 7 tops, about 25km of walking over the 3 days, some of it on the Southern Upland Way and not another person met on my rambles.

Time to rest these legs.

Ascent: 387M

Distance: 4.1km

Time: 1.52

Wildlife: Raven; Chaffinch; Robin; Blue Tit

The Wiss

Hill: The Wiss

Type: Sub2k

Height: 589m

After too long an absence it was time to get back on the hills and start improving my hill fitness. I wanted something on the gentler side so a wee Sub2k in the Borders was perfect. I had intended to do this last year from Ettrick Water but heavy snow on rough ground ruled it out. There are not many reviews for this hill and my intention last year was to use the same route as the others. However looking at the map there looked a better route from the opposite side starting at St Marys Loch. No reviews but it looked feasible and it was a shorter drive.

There had been snow recently so I was unsure of what I was going to find, reckoned it would be wet but packed the micro spikes just in case.

As I drove from Abington to Moffat the clouds were blowing through low and fast leaving snow cover quite low down. But as I drove from Moffat things began to brighten up even some blue sky.

The view from parking at the Loch of the Lowes

Parked up I could not see my target and the good news that the hills were green, but higher up?

The Wiss is the high point between the Yarrow Water (this side) and Ettrick Water (other side).

Follow the SUW

One reason for choosing this route was that I was utilising the Southern Upland Way for a stretch thus reducing the moorland bashing. I passed a herd of coos but they were slightly off the track and they simply stared. Climbing gently it was the sheep's to do the staring.

Skirting the new plantation

After the sheep pen there was a new plantation ahead which was not on any maps and before where I was planning to leave the SUW. I explored a bit further but backtracked where I left the SUW and followed the fence. Some open ground before I reached the trees I was looking for.

Had to leave ATV track and head towards end of trees

My plan was to follow the treeline but the ground was full of tussocks so it was easier to follow the odd ATV track, then tussocks, then ATV track keep repeating. The area is called Long Moor, aptly named.

Still it felt good to be out in the hills, super long distance views and the target was not too far away. The ground was firmer nearer the summit, much easier walking.

I reached a meeting of fences where I thought the trig was but nope not to be seen. Climbed the fence and about 50m later it came into view.

View back over Moffat hills

Looking West over St Mary's Loch

East over Ettrick water Eildons in distance

Zoomed in to the Eildons

From the summit there are excellent views all round with the exception when looking back towards Moffat where it was still ominously dark skies and the wind was blowing it my way. Light snow covered the higher tops looking spectacular when the rare burst of sunshine illuminated them. No idea what The Wiss means but looking at the map if you continue along the ridge the next section is called Moory Hass, fantastic names in the Borders.

The descent. A few Donalds on view including Capel Fell, Hermans Law.

White Coomb range snow topped

As I descended the wind reduced the temperature considerably along with a short burst of sleet, hood up but no rush lots to look at.

My target one of many sheep pens

It was easier descending until I was reminded things can go wrong. A bit of wet bog I thought was solid until my leg went down to my knee. Luckily the poles were anchored and stopped any injury but a useful safety reminder on my return to the hills.

Final track where are the coos?

On the final descent the coos were now all over the track staring at me but my saviour was coming uphill. The farmer with a big bale of hay on his tractor turned up went to the feeding station and off they followed.

The objective was achieved a pleasant short ramble with just enough ascent to make it a proper hill walk.

Ascent: 389m

Distance: 9.6km

Time: 2.39

Wildlife: Robin; Chaffinch; Crossbill; Blue Tit; Great Tit; Rook; Jackdaw; Pheasant: Skylark (heard); Buzzard

Its a Sunday so must be a visit to church.....Beinn na h-Eaglaise

Hill: Beinn na h-Eaglaise (Mountain/Hill of the Church)

Type: Fiona

Height: 736m

Bit of a bummer as I cancelled this walk for ADRC due to the appalling fog and subsequent very poor visibility for most of the day. But sods law, about 9am, the weather was improving so I decided to give it a bash. I did message but the other walkers had presumably sorted out other walks to do so it became a solo effort.

I started from the large walkers car park at the Torridon Inn, expected it to be a pay parking but pleasantly surprised.

The initial part of the route is the same as for Beinn Damh which I am doing tomorrow.

Walk west along the road through the rear courtyard over the bridge and up the track to the main road. On the other side there is a stalkers path that goes through the rhododendrons although these have been severely cut back.

Steep start

The path climbs uphill above a gorge with waterfalls through beautiful natural pine forests to emerge onto the more open pine and boulder strewn hillside. It is a climb that you are straight into, I was huffing and puffing. Plenty of birdsong to accompany me.

Go left

River crossing

Crossroads time, right for Damh, the left fork for me. When this reaches the river the path can be seen across a deep gorge but to cross follow the path this side to make the boulder steps crossing. Fine today but could be interesting after heavy rain.

Just go for it

Follow the path for another 600m onto the flanks of Eaglaise then it is decision time re where to leave the track and head onto the moor. I had one track saved but looking at it there seemed a more straightforward route so that is the one I chose. I knew that once I ascended it to the first crags I was going to be into the cloud. At least I had got this far with decent visibility, probably around the 500m mark.

There would be a series of lifts onto different sections of the ridge. Pathless but straightforward route finding to avoid the crags even with limited visibility.

The terrain is rough throughout with only one short section of easy scrambling on my route. On my left I was aware of some significant drops that would have been dangerous had the forecasted peasouper happened. As it was I had about 30 metres of visibility.

A short scramble coming up not possible to bypass 

The final kilometre is flatter but small rises appearing out of the gloom appeared giant hills, thankfully just small.

Finally the summit cairn

I was surprised to spot the cairn rising out of the miss slightly off to my right, my direction slightly off.

Hey say it is a superb viewpoint but not for me today. But it was strangely quiet, not even a slight breeze.

Liathach magically appeared

There are a couple of other descent options but as I had minimal visibility it was straight back down the same way. Shortly after leaving the top there was a slight opening of the cloud, only about 20 seconds, to tease and show the flanks of Liathach.

Upper Loch Torridon with Skye beyond

Torridon village and the lower slopes of Liathach

Not to be seen again until I came out of the clouds and had lunch overlooking the blue waters of Loch Torridon and beyond to Skye and the Hebrides, quite stunning.

Looking over towards Beinn Damh

Stunning lichen colourings

An uneventful return with good views of the steep track up Beinn Damh, tired legs after tomorrow I suspect.

It turned out to be a good walk. I would have been concerned leading a group through the pathless terrain in poor visibility with the dangers around, right choice, just a pity nobody else got to share the experience.

Ascent: 725m

Distance: 9.2km

Time: 4.14

Wildlife: Cuckoo (calling); Meadow Pipit; Coal Tit; Common Frog; Orange Tip (m); Tree Pipit(h);