Plenty of boulders, stones and scree, typical Assynt.....Conival & Ben More Assynt

 Hill: Conival (Adjoining Hill) (987m) & Ben More Assynt (Big hill of Assynt) (998m)

Type: Munro x2

Ascent: 1291m

This pair of Munros had been on my original 100 Munro list but for various reasons it did not happen but today I had the opportunity to try and tick them off.

I knew from my research that this was almost certainly going to be a gruelling ramble, not just are they the highest peaks in Assynt but the terrain, mainly made up of boulders and scree for much of the higher terrain, made for hard going. Throw in yesterdays heavy rain which should make the lower boggy sections even more so. Forewarned is forearmed as they say.

I arrived at the car park just after 7am where the only other occupant was just walking out without any form of acknowledgement, I wondered if we were doing the same hills.

Health & Safety risk of the day

After yesterdays deluge today was forecast to be drier but right now the low grey skies suggested not a lot had changed. Indeed there was light drizzle at the start but that did not put off the midgies.

It is a fairly long walk in before gaining any height but I enjoyed my ramble along Gleann Dubh which looked atmospherically scenic in the early morning light. I spotted a walker a good way ahead, presumably car park man.

Time to climb towards the Coll

The track was mainly good, very narrow and eroded in places but no issues. Just avoided taking the turn to Tragill Caves or I would have added to the distance with a U turn. The burn was making a fair old noise as it flowed over many small falls but as a Piscean i enjoy that sound.

After around 4k the track started the seemingly never ending ascent to Conival. The clouds were slowly lifting so I was now getting a view of just how high I was going to ascend, maybe I didn’t need that reminder.

The track followed to the left of the Allt a’ Choinne Mhill and although it had been relayed with large irregular stones it was still a muddy climb. The burn was running full and fast, the rocks all covered in moss and I was very aware that I needed to cross it at some point. Indeed after the deluge the hills were shedding water big style and the at times the track was itself a mini burn. Glad I had put on the leather boots.

Scramble required

The looming crags looked interesting particularly as I could not see an obvious way up, a scramble was clearly necessary but where?

As it turned out the burn crossing was straightforward as was the minor scramble on the section I chose, just to the right of the waterfall.

After the scramble the terrain was full on scree and boulders, not so hard ascending but I knew the descent would be a different story for my legs.

BMA on the left

Still no sign of the summit of Conival

The meandering track rose and rose, every point I thought might be the top was definitely not. On my left I could see the ridge to BMA and initially my mood dropped as I mistakenly thought that I was looking at Conival with the further ridge being BMA. My initial feel good thoughts that I was making good time disappeared. A pause for a map check confirmed it was BMA but where was Conival? Finally after another potential top the cairn finally appeared and I was right on the SMC time of 3 hours, very pleased with that.

View from Conival to BMA

From Conival looking down on the Corbett of Breabag

Having arrived at Conival BMA looked not that far away but I was well aware that it was not as close as it looked and would not be a stroll in the park. A quick break for nutrition as well as taking in the views.

The route to BMA

Indeed there and back was probably the most uncomfortable stretch of Munro walking that I have experienced. The SMC route stated it would take 45min each way. I managed 55min out and 1 hour back which I felt was good and I was surprised it did not take me longer. The constant scree/boulder walking/scrambling was so awkward that absolute full concentration was required. There was always the constant risk of tripping with non thinkable potential consequences. My legs and hips were getting a full workout.

View from the ridge down to the Dubh Loch Mor

Typical terrain

View from BMA summit across to its twin top

Looking from BMA back to Conival, wild stuff

At the top of BMA my plan was to eat but I decided to snack only and get the return stress out of the way and eat properly at Conival. The return seemed slightly easier but on the final scramble up to Conival I was feeling tired, too little nutrition. Some great views but that is one section I will never do again, Conival yes, BMA a big no no. The scree hills in this area produces spectacular scenery, one great example below looking north.

Back on Conival nice to see some greenery

View back to the start at left of the Loch Assynt

A deserved food break on Conival but now I was not really hungry so more snacking. Enjoyed the views before the long descent which just repeated the ascent. I had forgotten just how far down the stone section lasted. 

My tortured legs, feet and hips really struggled until I reached the flat track back along Gleann Dubh. Highlight was spotting a small herd of red deer hinds. Initially just one appeared profiled on the ridge but once it started grazing more appeared.

Back on the relative flat the sun was now out and it was hot which brought out the clegs and midgies.

I was relieved to get back to the car and refresh my feet with some cooling wipes.

I was delighted with my time and stamina. A good tough ramble with spectacular views but I cannot see me repeating it.

Distance: 19.5km

Time: 8.14

Wildlife: Golden Eagle; Common Frog; Red deer hinds & stags; Pied Wagtail; Grey Wagtail; Sparrowhawk (m); Meadow Pipit; House Martin; Sand Martin; Moth;

It's a long walk to a very remote Munro.....Seana Bhraigh

Hill: Seana Braigh (The Old Height)

Type: Munro

Height: 926m

This Munro would not have a lot going for it other than it is one of the longest walks to bag a single Munro. It can be accessed from Inverlael or Oykel and a bike can be used from Oykel but this route could involve a scramble that a lot of walkers might not fancy.

The SMC book describes it as ‘occupying a remote position in true wilderness’, spot on.

Both routes are long walk ins/out. I joined the majority and hiked in from Inverlael.

It was another cracking blue sky day and although I was travelling as light as possible the rucksack still felt too heavy. Well laden with fluids, liquid rather than food today's priority.

Cairn to turn off spot bikes hidden behind tree

A couple of miles of fairly flat walking and then there is the steep section that gained height quickly and got my lungs and heart working hard. Leaving the trees behind and out into the open, exposed to the sun, moorland. 

No hazard today. Bikers just ahead.

The route guide mentioned the possible hazard of a swollen water crossing which thankfully today was negligible, minimal water flowing.

Seana Bhraigh summit on left, a few more hours before reaching it

Another dried up burn, heading up through the boulder field

After a couple of hours of walking on a good ascending gradient we stopped for refreshments at a small dried up lochan. The summit target had been briefly sighted but it would be quite a while before we saw it again.

Then we headed to cross the pathless section which despite some small cairns could indeed be very difficult route finding in bad weather. Indeed not all the cairns lined up together, not good in bad weather and one possible route leads to crags not marked on the map.

SB summit on left route goes right of gully

Cracking view down the glen, Coigath prominent

Then there was the unwanted descent which gave a good look up the ascent route up the side of the impressively steep north facing cliffs of Cadha Dearg.

Impressive crags

Wider shot into the glen

Looking over it was a long way down into the barren ground of Glen Douchary.

Ptarmigan in summer gear

They were nor sure where to go when they ran off as a walker on the summit

A track of sorts took us up to the rocky slopes from where you can go all the way up to the south top. But we contoured the slopes where amongst the rocks a Ptarmigan appeared. By the time I got the camera out it had moved but luckily just snapped it when two heads appeared in the photo on the ridge. It was a pair of red deer hinds, the 1^st red deer that I have seen for yonks.

Another track was stumbled across which took a short descent before heading up the final 70m of ascent to the summit. Always the hardest part that final ascent.

The cairn is sited at the edge of the precipitous cliffs of Luchd Choire, be very careful, looking straight down was not good for my vertigo.

View from cairn Assynt peaks magnificent

Panorama back over Beinn Dearg group with Fannichs behind on right

Panorama with An Teallach on left

The views north to the mighty peaks of Assynt and Coigath were a fine reward for the effort.

Looking north, Oykel track leading to Loch a' Choire Mhoir

Scramble that ridge from Oykel if you want

On the way back there are superb views of the Beinn Dearg group and to the left of them is the Munro of Am Faochagach.

Getting there the trees hopefully will provide shade. An Teallach behind.

The return was via the outward route but it felt a lot longer walking back. Very hot at times but luckily there was some options to take on fresh water.

I will be honest to say that this was the toughest Munro that I have done for a long time. It was not just the walk length, which is long, but the length of time spent on poor terrain or a narrow hard path which seemed to last for ever. It didn’t help that I was feely chesty so not on top form. Still not a shabby time so the pace remained high throughout.

Luckily I got the weather to appreciate the great views that were alongside throughout the walk but I can’t see me doing it again.

Ascent: 1195m

Distance: 28.2km

Time: 8.45

Wildlife: Raven; Common Frog; Golden Plover; Ptarmigan; Tortoiseshell; Small White; Speckled?; Meadow Pipit;

More bog trotting but well worth it.....Meall Coire an Lochan

Hill: Meall Coire an Lochain

Type: Sub2k

Height: 517m

I was exploring Walkhighlands for a short half day walk and came up with two options. One involved a very steep ascent and from a visual drive past lots of bracken and with the amount of recent rain a potentially dangerous water crossing. The other was a pathless boggy moorland walk to the middle of nowhere which no doubt would be very boggy. Of course I could just stay in bed!

What swung my decision was this walk had only 34 people having bagged it on Walkhighlands, so I had to find out if it was really that bad.

This is the highest of the Cromalt Hills, I bet you had never heard of them either.

I started at the same car park that I used for Cul Beag but heading in the opposite direction. First issue was that the connection between my PC and GPS last night must have not been secure as the walk did not show on the GPS. The visibility was fine and I did have map & compass so walk was on.

The hill starts with a so called ATV track that disappears almost immediately and immediately it was wet and gloopy.

That is the ridge in the distance, I was going from right to left

The track rises to the right of the communication mast and once crested there is a view of the moor ahead. A very faint ATV track goes down into the longer grassy wetland before disappearing a lot quicker than I expected. There was a small rise ahead and a group of 8 red deer hinds initially spooked but let me get very close before running off.

Over the top and more of the same. I spotted a stag on a ridge body twisted as it looked at me but I was too far away to be an issue for him. It was an interesting ramble as I must have came across over 30 deer in small groups.

Not even a faint track from now on

I had a visual on the subsidiary top of Meall nan Dearcag Mor which I would ascend before walking the ridge to Meall Coire an Lochan thus giving me a circular ramble. From this location it also seemed the most direct route.

A good shot of the terrain. I was going to head up the grassy section on the right

The whole walk was indeed pathless. It was mostly wet and boggy with much time spent trying to avoid the very large peat hags, the many mapped and unmapped lochans, much toing and froing. The further I went the more I realised I was in a real wilderness, definitely not recommended in poor visibility. I know it is not to everyone's taste but at times like this I really enjoy the solitude, the feeling that you are just a mere pin prick in this vast landscape. There is also the slight edge that if something went wrong help is not going to be other walkers coming along. Still that edge is my adrenalin rush so it is to be embraced not feared.

Ben Mor Coigath on right and I think An Teallach in distance

When I closed in on my final ascent I came across a very dilapidated old iron fence line, not marked on my map. It could be followed if going directly to the main top but not for me today as I was going straight up the wet grassy face. About 70m of fairly straightforward ascent although the grass/heather was very wet and slippy along with the gradient at times between 40-60% so hands used as well.

On the top I got the first opportunity to have a good look around and take in the magnificent views and rugged landscape.

True summit is the high point in the middle

A 15 minute walk along the fairly level grassy ridge would take me to the real summit although from an eye perspective there is not a lot between the tops although the 517m definitely higher. Along the ridge where a pair of Golden Plovers were trying their hardest to distract me from wherever their nest was.

Great views of Cul Beag, Cul Mor & Suilven

Five minutes further on I reached the small cairn with an interesting  pipe/pole marked the summit.

Looking to the boulder slopes of Ben More Assynt, Ben Klibreck pointed one on the right

Looking around I now knew that despite the rough walking the views were one of the best that I have had in this area. Up until now I thought Breabag was the overall best vista but this hill stands so alone that much ore can be seen. Not as high of course but what a 360deg view. Just look at its location on the map and you will see what I mean, quite superb.

Descent was via the strip between the two lochans

Looking over Loch Odhar

From up here the peat bogs were numerous as were the large and small lochs/lochans. I made a steep descent heading for Loch a Phris to then traverse between it and Loch Odhar. Probably slightly easier walking than the in route. But on the in route when I looked back I could usually see the mast as my reference point. But on the return it was hidden until the last section.

Overall it far exceeded my expectations. Yes the ground was rough but with no visibility issues it is straightforward enough. But those views wow, more walkers need to appreciate it. It deserves its place along with all the other Assynt hills.

Ascent: 413m

Distance: 8km

Time: 3.19

Wildlife: Red Deer; Meadow Pipit; Golden Plover; Common Frog;