A wild day for a ramble around stunning Loch Sgiopoirt

Another extremely windy day so another low level walk, this time around the absolutely stunning landscape around Loch Sgiopoirt on the rugged eastern flank of South Uist. 
The drive in is a 4 mile single track, surprisingly no cars met on route but there was one parked up in the 2-3 car parking space at the road end. As previous blog not a full report but again a set of snaps with text.
Basically 2 walks. Firstly the short walk down to the abandoned jetty where some of the prawn cages looked in good condition so maybe someone still uses it.
Secondly a walk along the initial stages of the Hecla trail, taking care as the guide I read warned of boggy moss areas where you could plunge waist deep or deeper. Not a good thought when on your own.

Single road track with passing places for 4 miles but all the way along the only horsepower belongs to living things.

At the end of the road I come across the culprits, surely these 4 could not have laid all that manure for 4 miles. Presumably this small herd are original Eriskay wild ponies. I did come across more on the Hecla section so not all the dung was this foursome.

The guide indicates that this jetty is abandoned but the small boat looks modern enough as did some of the creels

Some of the jetty is definitely rotting and run down, no clambering across these poles.

This red breasted merganser suddenly appeared in my view, gutted as I thought it was an otter rising, but it was battling against the choppy waters, I could barely stand still in this wind hence the shaky snaps.

I stood on top of this hillock and spotted a sea eagle above the far islands being bombed by a couple of gulls. Seen well through the binos but could not keep a long lens still to capture it.

There are so many ruins around here that suggest the population before the clearances was large but what a hard life it must have been. If you kept sailing from here out of the loch you would reach Skye.

Heading to the Hecla track bothy a good landmark if the weather closes in.

This looked like an ideal spot to see an otter. A sea water loch with a fresh water burn where it can clean itself, but none around today.

I walked carefully past the bothy as there was a warning sign that there was a rat infestation so not to enter. Presumably they are far flung as well and don't stay indoors, glad I have gaiters on in case they run up my trousers.

The loch looks calm but anything but.

As I was near the car park an incoming rig was moving fast, a bumpy ride. The other car had a woman and child parked up for at least an hour when I  started my Hecla wandering, I wonder if this was the father rushing back to the jetty.

Wildlife: no otters but apart from the merganser and sea eagle, stonechats, rock pipits, skylarks, heron, goldeneye. Thankfully no rats.

Hebridean Way South Uist

The extreme winds had ruled out fishing and high level walks so I opted for a stretch of the Hebridean Way (a long distance trail with a cycling option as well), from Askernish southwards. This is a beautiful but very rugged area where you are guaranteed isolation for much of the walk. The next stop off it's western coast is America. Todays walk was into the wind which was 30-40mph at ground level, which at times even this low down tried to lift me off my feet. At least mainly blue skies. Not a full blog, mainly just a set of images with some comments.

This is a typical west side landscape, flat marsh ground with crofts dotted all around.

Although most properties are refurbished there are still plenty of ruined traditional structures around. Traditional language as you frequently hear the Gaelic spoken.

The Western Isles are a network of trout lochs of all sizes many linked by channels like these which allow trout to move through the system so a very small water may hold a big fish. No wonder it is a mecca for trout fishermen.

Be enticed with beautiful white sand beaches and big sky landscapes.

And often like this nobody else around, your own beach. 

Just some seaweed to spoil the white sands.

But further along the tides also bring in plenty of jetsom, mostly like this from fishing boats, deliberate or accidental?

The Atlantic ocean and the next stop America which also means there is nothing in between to block the winds as per today.

There are a few Hebridean Way signposts dotted around but on this section you cannot get lost with the sea always beside you.

This has to be one of the most scenic and highly challenging golf courses in Scotland. Askernish GC, an original Tom Morris designed links course re-established recently. With these winds it would challenge the pro guys.

You get different hazards on this course, electric wire fencing protects the greens from the free ranging common grazing coos and sheep which live on the course. 

The highest hill on the island is Beinn Mhor, today covered with its cloud shroud, but you would be crawling, not walking, to its summit today.

It is worth a short deviation inland to visit the historic roundhouse site as well as the immaculate cemetery which has a grand variety of very old and very new headstones, they take it seriously up here.

Beside the graveyard is what must be one of the lowest trig pillars in the country, only 20 metres above sea level.

Easabhal the hill of the cairns

I was on the island primarily to fish these great brownie waters but the wind is blowing far too strongly for safe fishing so instead I looked for a small sub 2000 nearby and Easabhal was perfect.
From the map the straightforward approach seemed to be from the west where a short marked track starts the walk. I didn’t take a reading but roughly NF758164

The start

I parked on the side road to Gearraidh na Monach, just past the ruined croft on the right as you drive is a parking slot for two cars, not a passing place.
Looking at the hill from this angle it would struggle to get a 2 out of ten. But, from the top it is a different story, well worth the short climb and if you get a clear day 10 out of 10 for the views.

Muddy track

Cross the road and follow the farm track, initially muddy, and curve left towards the fenced area where two gates save any barbed wire fence climbing.

Follow the gates

Once through the fences the moor has some very soft boggy ground, peat cutting legacies, look how deep my pole went in, wet feet and more for sure. 

Pole into 1st notch

However luckily for me the moor has recently been burnt and the blackened patches easily highlight the hard ground. A bit of zig zagging and this burnt stuff takes you almost to the top. I initially was going to head slightly left towards the outcrop but this going was so good I just straight lined towards the top.

Looking back at burnt areas

I was expecting a false top or two from the map but when I crested the ridge I could see a cairn. Good stuff but when I got closer I could see a second a short distance behind and this looked a bit bigger.

View north

When I got to the second this was the highest point, 45 minutes from the car. As I looked around I could see another two cairns and when I walked around them I went to six but probably some more are hidden.

Another cairn in distance

On the walk up I was sheltered from the wind but up here the gusts were trying hard to knock me off my feet. As I walked the cairns each has its own special view so if you come here on a good day expect to spend and enjoy the panorama. 
Looking towards Lochboisdale the water patterns of the island are apparent. The ferry is still docked, strange, but later found out that all sailings are cancelled today, south and north because of this wind.
Behind Lochboisdale Beinn Mhor still has a heavy cloud shroud. I had hoped to go up it but the forecast for my remaining days suggest not. When I do go up I want to enjoy it and get the views.

Eriskay

Barra is in a hazy mist, as is the causeway to Eriskay but it can be seen for the moment. A weather front is bringing rain so along with this wind time to descend.

Wild landscape

Back the same way enjoying the shelter from the wind and taking in the beauty of this wild and rugged countryside.
A short hill walk which I will do again on a clear day as those views are superb and can get better.

Time: 1hr 47m
Distance: 3.26 miles 5.27k
Ascent: 725ft 221m