Speyside Way.....Ballindalloch - Grantown on Spey

Walk: Speyside Way

Route: Ballindalloch – Grantown on Spey

By the standards of many other long distance walk sections this is relatively straightforward but for the Speyside Way this would be described as the Queens stage. That is a cycling term for the hardest or most difficult section. For sure it is the longest section if you exclude the optional Tomintoul loop and it has the most ascent of any section so it deserves its description. The ascent is undulating with several short steep sections rather than a full on climb.

Using public transport was not really an option so the good lady drove me to the start at Ballindalloch. A couple of overnighting camper vans were in the small parking area, the smell of bacon wafting around. Enticing but it was not for us and anyway I had eaten back at the hotel.

The last time I had been at this spot was when I cycled the previous stage and would have turned for the return cycle. It was clear from the route description that cycling much of this section was not an option and indeed that was the case.

Now a private house

An early morning stroll for just over a mile along the old railway line was amazing for the variety of singing birds. A woodpecker was hammering away, from the noises clearly changing trees but I could not spot it. Yet again Jays were calling another regular feature of my Moray rambles. The usual suspects were amongst the singing mixture but also included a male Blackcap. A flash of movement caught my eye flashing through the trees. Obviously a raptor it was a stunning chestnut brown. Sadly I did not see any other distinguishing marks. It was probably a buzzard but it looked smaller and flew faster than expected but not aware of any other raptor than could be so brown. The Spey was in sight alongside this section but despite the name of the walk I would not see it too often.

Turning left and taking a route towards the main road I was now in the first of the many fenced in sections that have been installed to keep walkers away from livestock, mainly cattle, more on this later. I met a couple of foreign walkers who were on a self sustained trip roughly based on the Moray trail. As it turned out they were the only walkers I met until the Abernethy forest near Grantown.

Buzzard approaching

Out onto fields and scrub, it was a potentially muddy section with walk boards to assist. Pheasants ran around and a pair of buzzards were on the hunt, I presume a pheasant is too big for them, maybe not as from the pheasants reactions they were taking no chances.

Crossed the A95 where there was a faint trail to follow, some light trees shielded me from the road traffic.

The track left the road heading up to the Garvault plantation. As I climbed I spotted a brown hare lopping around, it saw me and headed to some long reeds where it hunkered down. 

Garvault plantation

Not really sure why it is this weird design

I also encountered my 1^st set of chain gates. Unique to me and I didn’t fully understand the benefit of them. As a walker they were awkward to get through. Easily 30+ of them.

Nice to fet a break in the trees for a view

Up through the trees until I came to an old but very wide forest track. A pleasant saunter until I met the indicator which sent me steeply back down.

Brief view of the Cromdale hills

Across some scrubland where it was nice to have views of the Cromdale hills before heading back up and into another plantation, the Woods of Knockfrink. There is a lot of forest plantation walking on this rambler, just me and the trees so be warned. I spotted another raptor flying through the trees, much narrower wings so either a Sparrowhawk or better still a Goshawk. Once again just a quick sighting and far enough away in the trees to recognise any features other than shape.

Heading to farmland for a few miles

I left these trees to head through Meiklepark Wood before heading down to Mains of Dalvey Farm. Again hemmed in by fencing and chain gates it was bizarre. Short sections would then open up to a section of open field to cross so if any livestock was around you were still walking through them.

A lot of the fencing was derelict and unmaintained by the farmer and at one point two only days old lambs were inside. Two young to move out of my way. The ewe was getting distressed so I had to do a loop across the field agitating other ewes and lambs but not as close walking as the 1^st pair.

The walking was really awkward in the narrow confines and I was keeping my eye on a herd of cows and youngsters who were well aware of my presence but far enough away to not be agitated. Of course at the end of their field I had to leave the fence safety and go through their field for a short section.

The next narrow section now had me on full alert as there were fresh coo pats in the metre wide walkway, the joys.

At the next turn I headed downhill where another field of cows and calves had spotted me. I had to turn and walk alongside the fence, extremely flimsy I thought and the mothers were starting to circle and staring at me. I was edgy as I contoured very close to them, even more so when I saw that the fence had been flattened so not even that protection.

There only looks a few of them the rest are in ambush mode

Eyes down I got past them and turned the zig zag where I saw the gates I had to go through was right beside a feeding station and more cows and calves were staring at me. The calves looked days old as well and 3 of them were right at the gate. They were on the other side but the mothers were right alongside the fence and were now getting agitated at seeing me, mooing loudly the rest joining in. the farmer knew what he was doing when he sited that feeding station, a few swear words were uttered in his direction.

No way was I risking that so I decided to climb the lower fence into a ploughed field. A double barbed wire fence, for walkers not the crops!! A few tags to the trousers and more swearing. Walked across his field hoping his bloody crop fails.

Ideal breeding ground!!

Back into yet another tree section, Tom an Uird Wood. I was getting a bit fed up of trees but when I exited these trees it was to find the usual end of the world landscape scene of deforestation. At least I could see Cromdale ahead and I also saw the Spey once again. There was a sign that I should have snapped warning the lumber drivers to take care as this was a Capercaillie breeding are, the irony!

Final hemmed in section still had to be wary

Back onto the old railway line all the way to Cromdale, grassy, softer on the feet nice but hemmed in again. More open sections with cattle around so still keeping a look out.

Finally arrived at Cromdale which is an interesting location where a battle with Cromwell's forces effectively ended the Jacobite rebellion albeit the Scots claimed victory out of defeat, not for the last time. The battle is also famous for being the first reported instance of hand thrown explosive devices being used in combat.

Yes there is a River Spey plus Cromdale Kirk

Crossed the Spey to find a sign indicating 2.5 miles to Grantown via the forest route or 4 miles via the riverside. Guess what I opted for? After about 10 minutes walking I came across another sign Grantown 2.5 miles, not happy.

So the final forest walk of the section. I have to say that the 2.5 mile ramble through the Anagach wood was just a few trees too many. I was overheated as I had dressed for the forecast of heavy spring showers with possible hail and none appeared. Now it was just a warming sun.

Although I had seen a lot of wildlife I had hoped to see the crested Tit on this section but not to be.

My legs were feeling it so I was relieved when I reached Grantown.

Overall it was a good ramble with the exception of the near cattle encounters. It was my last section of the Speyside Way which were spread over a few years so there was the added satisfaction of completing another of Scotland’s long distance routes.

Ascent: 566m

Distance: 24..17km

Time: 5.59

Wildlife: Brown Hare; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Blackcap; Chaffinch; Robin; Blackbird; Woodpecker; Wren; Pheasant; Buzzard; Goldeneye; Mallard; Peewit; Wood Pigeon; Meadow Pipit; Jay; Willow Warbler; Dipper; Treecreeper,

Two hills required for one blue balloon.....Creag a' Mhadaidh

Hill: Creag a’ Mhadaidh (Cliff of the fox, dog) (612m) & Gualann Sheileach (Willow Hill)

Type: Fiona

Height: 612m

Typically it was once again a mixed weather forecast with rain and low cloud so I changed my plans and decided to go for the lowest hill available to me for my short ramble.

I had two options from the south, one starting at Loch Rannoch and one from the north at Dalnaspidal. I had used the northern route a few years back to the nearby Corbett Beinn Mholach so for a new perspective I opted for the southern start.

I wanted to get back to the good lady sooner than later so I opted to bike in saving about 2 hours on the trip. One of the reports I read mentioned pushing a bike around 2 fields before meeting the path, which was not on with my heavy bike so decision made.

My chosen route followed an old right of way which is a Scottish Hill track and included in the Scotways book (route 152).

As I got ready the light showers were already on/off, it was windy and the waves on Loch Rannoch were already crashing in beside my parking spot, I was close to not bothering.

This side of Perthshire has almost every lay by blocked but I got lucky to park up near my starting point and cycled to the small stone bridge over the Allt a’ Chreagain Odhair. A farm track headed towards Craiganour Lodge but veered north before entering the grounds and chased sheep into the woods.

Pleasant mixed wood

It was a pleasant cycle through the woods but there were a few cattle grids which meant it was a bit stop/start. Must be getting old and feart in the past I would have cycled over them.

Before long I was out of the trees and onto the moor. The good track for cycling was continuing to climb at a good gradient but twisting and turning so never boring.

My hills left and right with Meall na Leitreach under cloud behind them

I was starting to get glimpses of my two hills but just behind them there was a bigger peak with its top under cloud. Some doubt kicked in as I wondered if that indeed was my target. Thankfully it wasn't.

The sheep around here are the sprinting running type, that is sprinting in front of me until a mad leap left or right, my hands fingering the brakes just in case.

I arrived between my two hills and found a small quarry to leave the bike.

This is an interesting pair of hills as both are marked on the OS map as being 612m high but it appears that is is acknowledged that Gualann is 1m lower. Surprisingly the SMC guide to The Grahams makes no mention of this but do a search for Gualann and it is always measured at 612m.

Too climb both was the question, not to be answered until Mhadaidh has been conquered but almost certainly so.

The boggy section to cross first

Some showers running up Loch Rannoch

So off to Mhadaidh it was. There was about 1/2km of rough marshy moorland to cross before any height was gained. Quite wet after the recent rain. There are on/off quad bike and animal tracks but just as much is just using your skills to find the better going. The moor is criss-crossed with water channels, mostly hidden from above and some narrow knee deep ditches so being careful was obvious.

The flat ground up top

Circa 100m of steeper ground before it flattens out again and you realise that the top is about another 500m away over mixed ground.

But the final summit area offers super views over a barren landscape. Tempting to say unmarked by human hand but most of the lochs in this area maybe original water but the hydro industry will be involved somewhere along the line. The SMC book describes the hills name as a misnomer as it is indeed it is just a high point on the moor.

From summit view to Loch Errochty

View back to Loch Rannoch and the track I just cycled up

Still the views up north over Loch Garry and west over to Loch Errochty are quite special, not forgetting the huge mass of Loch Rannoch behind me.

View across to the top of Gualann Sheileach with the trig of Beinn Mholach behind

Looking back the first thing in my view was my 2^nd hill for today, Gualann Sheileach, but it is the huge bulk behind it that really catches my eye. This bulk is the Corbett of Beinn Mholach my aforementioned ramble from Dalnaspidal, no bikes then and from up here it looks an even longer walk than I remembered.

Summer has definitely moved on, the wind up here was on the cool side, no time to linger.

Duinish bothy centre left

Whilst descending the sun briefly shone through the clouds illuminating the Duinish bothy, a special moment on a grey day, everything Scotland's weather often unexpectedly delivers.

As per the forecast showers were passing over Loch Rannoch but so far none had encompassed me, long may it continue.

The mid peak on the right is the high spot

On my descent, I had observed a probable ascent route up Gualann via a grass gully. From here the terrain on Gualann looked easier going but not for the first time I was mistaken.

The grassy gully was fairly direct but it held another hidden water course so plenty more hidden narrow holes to do some damage. I could hear the water gurgling away as it dropped but rarely could I see it, lots of prodding with my poles.

Of course when I reached the top of the gully it was similar to Mhadaidh with about half a kilometre to the summit but much more of a contouring route. And if anything this was the worst walking section with tussocks, heather and peat hags to overcome.

Summit the mid point

The three tops thankfully descend in height from my left to right so the first one I reached was the highest top. A small cairn but no sign of the Willows, long since gone.

View from summit to Beinn Mholach

Very rough ground between here and Rannoch Station

View North to Loch Garry on the left

Again it was a smallish hill with decent views and it brought Mholach must closer and even more imposing. The ascent from the other side was fairly straightforward as I recall.

My descent back to the track was easier by picking out better lines, especially ;ower down on the bare grass grazed by the sheep. But then I had a problem. I could not find my bike. Normally I mark a GPS location but did not today. I had come down above where I expected so a frustrating time walking up and down until I spotted a bike handle further down the track towards Rannoch, big relief.

Typical view of the pointed peak of Schiehallion

The fast downhill descent to Loch Rannoch was fun, just over 15mins along with the downhill MTB buzz, a perfect end to a good short ramble.

Ascent: 664m

Distance: 19.6km

Time: 3.21

Wildlife: Common Frog; Meadow Pipit; Wren; Scotch Argus;

More of an adventure than expected on the West Highland Way.....Kings House - Kinlochleven

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Kings House – Kinlochleven

I was reflecting that most of my West Highland Way rambles have been as a Plan B, bad weather option, which is not at all fair as I have missed out on some stupendous views whilst walking in the rain. Today was no different, another Plan B option due to the forecasted wind and rain. However even Plan B was almost a no goer.

I have been trying things differently at times this year, sometimes utilising public transport and frankly enjoying the non driving. Today the very comfortable and fairly quiet Citylink bus, 1^st out of Glasgow for Skye, deposited me at the Glencoe Ski Centre road end. The bus driver said “do you really want to do this”? As I watched the bus pull away I could have cried and yelled 'no'. The rain was lashing down, driven on by 30+mph winds and there was nobody else around. It was kinda weird, like being in a bad movie.

As I walked to the Kings House I was already considering other options, none of them favourable.

Approaching the hotel some walkers emerged, yippee a line of sight at least, luminous green covers on their backs.

Grey, wet and lonely

The weather forecast for this morning at least showed the high winds from the south east, mainly at my back. But as I stumbled along the section to Altnafeadh it was fully in my face, now a true westerly. Another reply to the Met Office app's question re how accurate was this for you today?

To throw into the mixing pot I was feeling chesty and not breathing at all normally which was concerning.

About half way along there are three mapped streams flowing off Beinn a Chrulaiste. With the heavy rain I counted that there were now 7 of them all joining into the flow above me, so I had to cross it. It was flowing fast and wide covering the obvious standing stones. There was no sign of the 3 guys ahead so they had crossed. Of course being a numpty I had not brought my walking poles as who needs them on the West Highland Way? I dithered, turning back not really an option although it would have been the most sensible. For those not versed in Scotland's public transport there are fewer public transport buses heading through Glencoe than you might think. The stop at the ski centre has no shelter so I did not fancy a long wait there. The next stop is Glencoe visitor centre, a long way from where I was and no pick up stop at Altnafeadh.

Three young frauleins turned up and crossed, not without difficulty, using poles and holding each other, whilst I watched. They wandered off so I decided to cross not very elegantly, crab fashion holding some rocks, made it. They had obviously decided I was too feart for rounding the corner immediately finding two bare backsides in front of me, toilet break. The only one with her pants on smirked as I went by, serves them right for not helping an old man across that water hazard. Smug but little did I know that a worse water crossing was en route, the frauleins would be around again.

Plenty of water outlets running off the 'Bookle'

Frauleins marching away from me

The white of the bothy stood out on this grey day

At Altnafeadh I seriously considered going back knowing I would be around the same time as a bus. But I would have to get over the burn again and my stubbornness to complete the walk kicked in.

The Devil's Staircase in the dry

Looking back from near the top

The wind had disappeared as I headed up the Devil’s Staircase. A mixture of sunshine and heavy showers. A good winding trail and my shallow breathing had eased although I am sure some of the walkers looking back were concerned about my wheezing rather than the views. By the way there are great views looking back.

I was pleased to reach the highpoint of the West highland Way marked by two cairns, no I don’t know why two. But true to form the heavens opened and the wind roared, appropriately for the high point it was bloody cold and the rain was hail for a while, sore on the face.

The water crossings were beside the dark green showing mid left

The one glimmer of hope before the rains returned

The track could be seen winding across the remote moor. Walkhighlands mentions descending and crossing a burn on stepping stones. The stones were there, quite substantial, flat topped and widely spaced. The tops were under the fast running water level but manageable.

About 30 metres further on and round a bend a 2^nd burn appears, far wider, running much faster and no stepping stones. A girl on the far side said she had crossed further up the hillside but pointed to her two friends who had not risked the same crossing as her and were now half way up a big hill, still on the wrong side. I ambled up a bit but it was too narrow with faster deeper water, no chance of jumping.

As I looked back the frauleins arrived and decided a full on attack with a line of 3 holding each other, they got very wet but got across. I think it was a nice smile they gave me, looking at my predicament, they marched on.

Slighted I had no option but to cross. I was soon in deep almost up to my knees. The current was so strong that every leg lift was moving the foot so no option other than to go crab again, to feel underwater boulders, to get stability, and then I was over. With the amount of rain still falling the level was only going to rise and would be impassable for some later in the day. Emptied the water out of my boots but kept my dry socks for later just in case there were more burns.

Excellent views over the Blackwater reservoir but the wind and rain returned with a vengeance. On the descent another waterflow was seen, a proper river in these conditions and no way that would be crossed but thankfully it had a bridge.

Descending to Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn ahead

A good example of the extreme water levels

Some more moor then a long tree lined descent into Kinlochleven. I had made such good time that I had a 45 minute wait for a bus. The heavens opened so I just waited it out in the bus shelter.

Water pressure too high for this pipe

River Leven flowing fast and wide

Really bad weather which made for some amazing atmospheric views including the many waterfalls, some of which were truly outstanding examples of the power of water/nature. A walk I would repeat but on a good day.

Ascent: 448m

Distance: 14.58

Time: 3.31

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Pied Wagtail

A very wet day on the West Highland Way.....Inverarnan - Crianlarich

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Inverarnan – Crianlarich

I really needed to get outdoors, going stir crazy, but from my walk planner I had put this day aside for a different ramble but it was such an awful weather forecast that the chosen ramble was not going a good choice. I wanted a walk so checked my to-do list and chose this section of the West Highland Way, ideal for a poor weather day.

I drove to Crianlarich to meet the bus that I had identified on their website last night. Arrived at the car park in good time, in the rain, so decided to put boots etc on at the bus stop. Happened to look at the paper copy on the bus shelter and you guessed it, that bus I was expecting was not showing on the timetable. The next one was a further hour away. I was not going home so coffee and cake time.

The bus, from Skye, turned up a couple of minutes late but that was fine. Had a good natter driving down with the not so young female bus driver, she was a typical Glasgow character. She was also a good mind reader. As she stopped at The Drovers Inn she said ‘going for a pint first’? It had crossed my mind, good job I am not married to her.

It was pouring down as I stepped off the bus and the Drovers car park was mobbed so I passed on that pint.

I walked down to the camp site where I met a Chinese guy who asked If I knew where the West Highland Way was! To be fair it was about 10 metres away behind a building but there were two yellow Way markers beside us, how had he made it this far? I politely showed him the way.

There is not a lot to say about this section as it is a typical hard packed track. Today there was rain for about two thirds of the walk with the mountain views non existent. The river was noisy with all the water rushing down and there were a few good glimpses of various waterfalls.

Some the Falls of Falloch

There were burns cascading water everywhere, a good volume of it flooding the track, just as well I had good leather boots on, lightweight stuff would have been very soggy.

Heading out onto open countryside. Mt Chinese pal in yellow ahead. I was soon to pass him.

View towards An Caisteal, be grim Munro bagging today

The track is one continual short roller coaster of undulating walking. It actually was going a bit higher at times than I expected but that's because I didn't bother to look at a map first.

Another flood and this section will be washed away ant it will be a major rebuild

Time to hula hoop under the railway line. Must be interesting if a train comes over whilst you are under it.

The ramble was devoid of people. I had expected that as most walkers would have started from Inverarnan many hours before me or be doing a very long section and would not be up this way for a while yet. Indeed apart from Mr Chinaman going north the few people I met were walking/cycling the other way.

Final high section before dropping off to Crianlarich

Interesting group of trees. With the prevailing SW weather I would have thought the front trees would be more stunted than the back.

The weather started to brighten a little as I reached the junction where I headed down to Crianlarich but of course it was raining again when I got to the car.

Overall it was not the outing that I had wanted but it was a good plan B. I needed the walk, as my legs told me later, surprisingly a bit achy for a short outing.

Ascent: 302m

Distance: 11.5km

Time: 2.51

Wildlife: Spotted Flycatcher (h); Chaffinch (m+f); Stonechat (m); Blue Tit;