More of an adventure than expected on the West Highland Way.....Kings House - Kinlochleven

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Kings House – Kinlochleven

I was reflecting that most of my West Highland Way rambles have been as a Plan B, bad weather option, which is not at all fair as I have missed out on some stupendous views whilst walking in the rain. Today was no different, another Plan B option due to the forecasted wind and rain. However even Plan B was almost a no goer.

I have been trying things differently at times this year, sometimes utilising public transport and frankly enjoying the non driving. Today the very comfortable and fairly quiet Citylink bus, 1^st out of Glasgow for Skye, deposited me at the Glencoe Ski Centre road end. The bus driver said “do you really want to do this”? As I watched the bus pull away I could have cried and yelled 'no'. The rain was lashing down, driven on by 30+mph winds and there was nobody else around. It was kinda weird, like being in a bad movie.

As I walked to the Kings House I was already considering other options, none of them favourable.

Approaching the hotel some walkers emerged, yippee a line of sight at least, luminous green covers on their backs.

Grey, wet and lonely

The weather forecast for this morning at least showed the high winds from the south east, mainly at my back. But as I stumbled along the section to Altnafeadh it was fully in my face, now a true westerly. Another reply to the Met Office app's question re how accurate was this for you today?

To throw into the mixing pot I was feeling chesty and not breathing at all normally which was concerning.

About half way along there are three mapped streams flowing off Beinn a Chrulaiste. With the heavy rain I counted that there were now 7 of them all joining into the flow above me, so I had to cross it. It was flowing fast and wide covering the obvious standing stones. There was no sign of the 3 guys ahead so they had crossed. Of course being a numpty I had not brought my walking poles as who needs them on the West Highland Way? I dithered, turning back not really an option although it would have been the most sensible. For those not versed in Scotland's public transport there are fewer public transport buses heading through Glencoe than you might think. The stop at the ski centre has no shelter so I did not fancy a long wait there. The next stop is Glencoe visitor centre, a long way from where I was and no pick up stop at Altnafeadh.

Three young frauleins turned up and crossed, not without difficulty, using poles and holding each other, whilst I watched. They wandered off so I decided to cross not very elegantly, crab fashion holding some rocks, made it. They had obviously decided I was too feart for rounding the corner immediately finding two bare backsides in front of me, toilet break. The only one with her pants on smirked as I went by, serves them right for not helping an old man across that water hazard. Smug but little did I know that a worse water crossing was en route, the frauleins would be around again.

Plenty of water outlets running off the 'Bookle'

Frauleins marching away from me

The white of the bothy stood out on this grey day

At Altnafeadh I seriously considered going back knowing I would be around the same time as a bus. But I would have to get over the burn again and my stubbornness to complete the walk kicked in.

The Devil's Staircase in the dry

Looking back from near the top

The wind had disappeared as I headed up the Devil’s Staircase. A mixture of sunshine and heavy showers. A good winding trail and my shallow breathing had eased although I am sure some of the walkers looking back were concerned about my wheezing rather than the views. By the way there are great views looking back.

I was pleased to reach the highpoint of the West highland Way marked by two cairns, no I don’t know why two. But true to form the heavens opened and the wind roared, appropriately for the high point it was bloody cold and the rain was hail for a while, sore on the face.

The water crossings were beside the dark green showing mid left

The one glimmer of hope before the rains returned

The track could be seen winding across the remote moor. Walkhighlands mentions descending and crossing a burn on stepping stones. The stones were there, quite substantial, flat topped and widely spaced. The tops were under the fast running water level but manageable.

About 30 metres further on and round a bend a 2^nd burn appears, far wider, running much faster and no stepping stones. A girl on the far side said she had crossed further up the hillside but pointed to her two friends who had not risked the same crossing as her and were now half way up a big hill, still on the wrong side. I ambled up a bit but it was too narrow with faster deeper water, no chance of jumping.

As I looked back the frauleins arrived and decided a full on attack with a line of 3 holding each other, they got very wet but got across. I think it was a nice smile they gave me, looking at my predicament, they marched on.

Slighted I had no option but to cross. I was soon in deep almost up to my knees. The current was so strong that every leg lift was moving the foot so no option other than to go crab again, to feel underwater boulders, to get stability, and then I was over. With the amount of rain still falling the level was only going to rise and would be impassable for some later in the day. Emptied the water out of my boots but kept my dry socks for later just in case there were more burns.

Excellent views over the Blackwater reservoir but the wind and rain returned with a vengeance. On the descent another waterflow was seen, a proper river in these conditions and no way that would be crossed but thankfully it had a bridge.

Descending to Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn ahead

A good example of the extreme water levels

Some more moor then a long tree lined descent into Kinlochleven. I had made such good time that I had a 45 minute wait for a bus. The heavens opened so I just waited it out in the bus shelter.

Water pressure too high for this pipe

River Leven flowing fast and wide

Really bad weather which made for some amazing atmospheric views including the many waterfalls, some of which were truly outstanding examples of the power of water/nature. A walk I would repeat but on a good day.

Ascent: 448m

Distance: 14.58

Time: 3.31

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Pied Wagtail

A very wet day on the West Highland Way.....Inverarnan - Crianlarich

Walk: West Highland Way.

Section: Inverarnan – Crianlarich

I really needed to get outdoors, going stir crazy, but from my walk planner I had put this day aside for a different ramble but it was such an awful weather forecast that the chosen ramble was not going a good choice. I wanted a walk so checked my to-do list and chose this section of the West Highland Way, ideal for a poor weather day.

I drove to Crianlarich to meet the bus that I had identified on their website last night. Arrived at the car park in good time, in the rain, so decided to put boots etc on at the bus stop. Happened to look at the paper copy on the bus shelter and you guessed it, that bus I was expecting was not showing on the timetable. The next one was a further hour away. I was not going home so coffee and cake time.

The bus, from Skye, turned up a couple of minutes late but that was fine. Had a good natter driving down with the not so young female bus driver, she was a typical Glasgow character. She was also a good mind reader. As she stopped at The Drovers Inn she said ‘going for a pint first’? It had crossed my mind, good job I am not married to her.

It was pouring down as I stepped off the bus and the Drovers car park was mobbed so I passed on that pint.

I walked down to the camp site where I met a Chinese guy who asked If I knew where the West Highland Way was! To be fair it was about 10 metres away behind a building but there were two yellow Way markers beside us, how had he made it this far? I politely showed him the way.

There is not a lot to say about this section as it is a typical hard packed track. Today there was rain for about two thirds of the walk with the mountain views non existent. The river was noisy with all the water rushing down and there were a few good glimpses of various waterfalls.

Some the Falls of Falloch

There were burns cascading water everywhere, a good volume of it flooding the track, just as well I had good leather boots on, lightweight stuff would have been very soggy.

Heading out onto open countryside. Mt Chinese pal in yellow ahead. I was soon to pass him.

View towards An Caisteal, be grim Munro bagging today

The track is one continual short roller coaster of undulating walking. It actually was going a bit higher at times than I expected but that's because I didn't bother to look at a map first.

Another flood and this section will be washed away ant it will be a major rebuild

Time to hula hoop under the railway line. Must be interesting if a train comes over whilst you are under it.

The ramble was devoid of people. I had expected that as most walkers would have started from Inverarnan many hours before me or be doing a very long section and would not be up this way for a while yet. Indeed apart from Mr Chinaman going north the few people I met were walking/cycling the other way.

Final high section before dropping off to Crianlarich

Interesting group of trees. With the prevailing SW weather I would have thought the front trees would be more stunted than the back.

The weather started to brighten a little as I reached the junction where I headed down to Crianlarich but of course it was raining again when I got to the car.

Overall it was not the outing that I had wanted but it was a good plan B. I needed the walk, as my legs told me later, surprisingly a bit achy for a short outing.

Ascent: 302m

Distance: 11.5km

Time: 2.51

Wildlife: Spotted Flycatcher (h); Chaffinch (m+f); Stonechat (m); Blue Tit;

WHW Inveroran - Glencoe Ski Centre

Walk: West Highland Way

Section: Inveroran - Kingshouse

After yesterdays wash out at least it was dry this morning, even though the temperature was still low and the clouds well down. So what to do with the good lady? She felt up to a small section of the West highland Way, fine with me. 

Inveroran Hotel

Off we drove to our start at Inveroran Hotel, a historic inn dating back to early 1700's. No chance of coffee and scone as yet another place that has a sign up 'only catering to residents'. I wonder what our visitors think of this as it is now so common? The next opportunity to buy food is just under 10 miles away. It really is not good enough for an area dependant on tourism and on a National walking route.

This is a straight forward section of the WHW, even the good lady could not get lost or so I thought. 'Where do we go now' was heard early on. The Black Mount Munros were covered in cloud but breaks give a glimpse into the magnificent corrie.

The road structure can be clearly seen

After the tarmac road to Forrest Lodge the route became more interesting as we were walking on a historic drovers route which was made into a harder foundation as a Parliamentary Road by Thomas Telford. We passed a small derelict quarry where I presumed the stones came from. I could imagine the navvies breaking up the rocks with their hammers, very hard graft. There are the deep depressions on either side of the road, pushed down from the weight of the many carriages of various types over the years. Trees on the other side prevented us getting any sighting of the Black Mount lodge, a private dwelling I think. At least the trees kept the wind at bay.

Good lady heads back to the car

Whilst I keep going

Then it was out into the open moor. This is one of the most exposed sections of the WHW. Today it was fine but yesterday it would have been awful. After an hour of walking the good lady turned back and I hopefully I will meet up with her at the end.

As I walked I was looking at a couple of hills when it clicked that they are a pair of Sub2k's I did last year. Different perspective is why I did not recognise them at first.

Munro Meall a' Bhuiridh comes into view

Rannoch Moor starts here

Not a lot to say about this section, grass and moor with some Glencoe corries and tops to provide interest. It is however, the start of the famous Rannoch moor. I passed a few walkers almost all foreign from the voices, most smiling. 

In the distance I saw this long moving line, my eyesight is not great but even I could tell it was a large human convoy coming my way. When I met up they were sitting on either side of the Ba bridge, most head down, no youngsters and from the few voices I heard a group of Germans. They didn't look the fittest bunch and probably will be even less happy when they reached the hotel 'residents only' at Inveroran if they were hoping for refreshments!! 

Munro of Creise just poking out behind Bhuiridh

Clouds now into Coire an Easain 

I had now completed the highest section, my last small piece of Turkish Delight the reward, before turning and contouring towards Glencoe. The wind was now stronger and colder and the clouds seemed even lower. My hopes of a clear view of the Buachaille dashed. It was there but with an atmospheric cloud covering sadly. At least I have seen these views before. It would have been nicer for the 1st timers behind me to see it in all its glory.

Stob Dearg but hidden in its shroud today

Then the good lady was spotted, not quite dashing to meet up me, more huddled in layers desperate to get to the ski centre café for warmth and cake. Thankfully it was open!

I walked the route faster than most would so that I caught up with the good lady before she panicked. It meant that I did get a slight sweat on despite the coolness. Overall it was a good short ramble to finish what has been a less than inspiring start to the summer.

Ascent: 332m

Distance: 13.8km

Time: 2.59

Wildlife: Raven; Chaffinch; Blue Tit; Meadow Pipit; Pearl Bordered Fritillary; Large White;

WHW.....Crianlarich - Tyndrum

Walk: West Highland Way

Section: Crianlarich - Tyndrum

Woke up to the sound of rain battering the window, not exactly what I wanted to hear. The forecast was to be grim all morning, high winds all day so no high tops today.

As the afternoon was for showers, I decided to get the train to Crianlarich and walk back to Tyndrum via the West Highland Way. Short train journey, but it was packed and humid, the chances of Covid?

As always, the hard bit is finding the start. Crianlarich is a fair bit off the official WHW according to my map. I headed down to the Post Office where I found a tourist map/board. Back up to the station and follow the Drovers Loop which should connect to the WHW. Good but where is this trail at the station. Turns out you go through a tunnel, head up a flight of steps and there is a marker. 

I did not have a map and had not looked at the route beforehand, so I was surprised at how much elevation is gained so quickly and how high above the road the track goes. Still plenty of peace and quiet, only bumped into two people until Dalrigh area.

After a lung bursting ascent from Crianlarich this is what greets you

Typical scenery

I love the moss on top of the rock, a small croft!!

Spotted this unusual plant, Heath Speedwell my app says

Hill middle right one of the Corbetts that was Plan A

There has been much deforestation, but I suppose it does open up the views. Up and down the track goes. I spotted movement on a tree branch, quickly disappearing. I was certain it was not a squirrel which only left a Pine Martin, if so, that would have been my first ever sighting but not conclusive enough.

River in full flow

Just one reason for this being an amazing country

Out of the woods and across the road to the ancient historical ruins at the Fillan's priory and graveyard. As I was looking about the farmer drove into his yard with a trailer. All hell let loose. I assume it was a bull and the noise it was making it was far from happy. I made a quick movement to get through the farmyard gate.

A pleasant stroll then back across the road again for the the final few miles to Tyndrum. I spoke to a Swedish woman with her three daughters. The youngest one looked at her mother and said, 'this is so beautiful'. Despite the poor weather it was a reminder to remember what we have in Scotland.

So, an afternoon of showers and very high wind gusts. When I reached Tyndrum it was just too cold in that wind. But remember the wee girl, no complaining. On a cold day the reward had to be a fish supper at the Real Food Cafe. A good ramble.

Ascent: 391m

Distance: 12.2km

Time: 2.52

Wildlife: Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Blackbird; Swallow; Sand Martin;