Walk: West Highland Way.
Section: Kings House – Kinlochleven
I was reflecting that most of my West Highland Way rambles have been as a Plan B, bad weather option, which is not at all fair as I have missed out on some stupendous views whilst walking in the rain. Today was no different, another Plan B option due to the forecasted wind and rain. However even Plan B was almost a no goer.
I have been trying things differently at times this year, sometimes utilising public transport and frankly enjoying the non driving. Today the very comfortable and fairly quiet Citylink bus, 1st out of Glasgow for Skye, deposited me at the Glencoe Ski Centre road end. The bus driver said “do you really want to do this”? As I watched the bus pull away I could have cried and yelled 'no'. The rain was lashing down, driven on by 30+mph winds and there was nobody else around. It was kinda weird, like being in a bad movie.
As I walked to the Kings House I was already considering other options, none of them favourable.
Approaching the hotel some walkers emerged, yippee a line of sight at least, luminous green covers on their backs.
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| Grey, wet and lonely |
The weather forecast for this morning at least showed the high winds from the south east, mainly at my back. But as I stumbled along the section to Altnafeadh it was fully in my face, now a true westerly. Another reply to the Met Office app's question re how accurate was this for you today?
To throw into the mixing pot I was feeling chesty and not breathing at all normally which was concerning.
About half way along there are three mapped streams flowing off Beinn a Chrulaiste. With the heavy rain I counted that there were now 7 of them all joining into the flow above me, so I had to cross it. It was flowing fast and wide covering the obvious standing stones. There was no sign of the 3 guys ahead so they had crossed. Of course being a numpty I had not brought my walking poles as who needs them on the West Highland Way? I dithered, turning back not really an option although it would have been the most sensible. For those not versed in Scotland's public transport there are fewer public transport buses heading through Glencoe than you might think. The stop at the ski centre has no shelter so I did not fancy a long wait there. The next stop is Glencoe visitor centre, a long way from where I was and no pick up stop at Altnafeadh.
Three young frauleins turned up and crossed, not without difficulty, using poles and holding each other, whilst I watched. They wandered off so I decided to cross not very elegantly, crab fashion holding some rocks, made it. They had obviously decided I was too feart for rounding the corner immediately finding two bare backsides in front of me, toilet break. The only one with her pants on smirked as I went by, serves them right for not helping an old man across that water hazard. Smug but little did I know that a worse water crossing was en route, the frauleins would be around again.
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| Plenty of water outlets running off the 'Bookle' |
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| Frauleins marching away from me |
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| The white of the bothy stood out on this grey day |
At Altnafeadh I seriously considered going back knowing I would be around the same time as a bus. But I would have to get over the burn again and my stubbornness to complete the walk kicked in.
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| The Devil's Staircase in the dry |
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| Looking back from near the top |
The wind had disappeared as I headed up the Devil’s Staircase. A mixture of sunshine and heavy showers. A good winding trail and my shallow breathing had eased although I am sure some of the walkers looking back were concerned about my wheezing rather than the views. By the way there are great views looking back.
I was pleased to reach the highpoint of the West highland Way marked by two cairns, no I don’t know why two. But true to form the heavens opened and the wind roared, appropriately for the high point it was bloody cold and the rain was hail for a while, sore on the face.
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| The water crossings were beside the dark green showing mid left |
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| The one glimmer of hope before the rains returned |
The track could be seen winding across the remote moor. Walkhighlands mentions descending and crossing a burn on stepping stones. The stones were there, quite substantial, flat topped and widely spaced. The tops were under the fast running water level but manageable.
About 30 metres further on and round a bend a 2nd burn appears, far wider, running much faster and no stepping stones. A girl on the far side said she had crossed further up the hillside but pointed to her two friends who had not risked the same crossing as her and were now half way up a big hill, still on the wrong side. I ambled up a bit but it was too narrow with faster deeper water, no chance of jumping.
As I looked back the frauleins arrived and decided a full on attack with a line of 3 holding each other, they got very wet but got across. I think it was a nice smile they gave me, looking at my predicament, they marched on.
Slighted I had no option but to cross. I was soon in deep almost up to my knees. The current was so strong that every leg lift was moving the foot so no option other than to go crab again, to feel underwater boulders, to get stability, and then I was over. With the amount of rain still falling the level was only going to rise and would be impassable for some later in the day. Emptied the water out of my boots but kept my dry socks for later just in case there were more burns.
Excellent views over the Blackwater reservoir but the wind and rain returned with a vengeance. On the descent another waterflow was seen, a proper river in these conditions and no way that would be crossed but thankfully it had a bridge.
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| Descending to Kinlochleven, Garbh Bheinn ahead |
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| A good example of the extreme water levels |
Some more moor then a long tree lined descent into Kinlochleven. I had made such good time that I had a 45 minute wait for a bus. The heavens opened so I just waited it out in the bus shelter.
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| Water pressure too high for this pipe |
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| River Leven flowing fast and wide |
Really bad weather which made for some amazing atmospheric views including the many waterfalls, some of which were truly outstanding examples of the power of water/nature. A walk I would repeat but on a good day.
Ascent: 448m
Distance: 14.58
Time: 3.31
Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Pied Wagtail
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