Ben Arthur aka The Cobbler

Other stuff meant that I wasn't going to make the Killie group walk tomorrow so I decided on a solo trip for today. I also missed out on Ayr's walk to The Cobbler last week so that seemed an opportune choice, must be 25 years since I have been up here.
Early start, missed the traffic and ready to walk for 9. The carpark is under repair so at least no parking charge.

Forecast was for no rain, yippee, might get a view from the top at last.
I quickly remembered the easy zigzag start to the walk, lined with flowers, bushes & trees, building the gradient up gradually. Last time when I was here I went to the right and up the front of Narnain but not today. At the Cowal path a quick left, then right and onwards up the well made path until about an hour into the walk I break out onto open land and get my first sighting of the hill. 
There is no deviation from the path so happily there are no navigational issues to worry about, this is a tourist trail for the moment. Plenty of dogs around today but sadly also some piles of dog dirt on the edges, not nice. The Allt a Bhalachain (burn) is roaring loudly just below on my left. The water is running fast with all the rain we have had recently. Even though I am an early starter a couple are already descending followed by a runner. In the group ahead a couple of guys, in the true Clydesider tradition, are smoking on the way up.

Left scramble route Right tourist path (also for Narnain & Ime)

Just after the Narnain boulders the tourist track continues following the Narnain sign. However I am going to ascend via the scrambling route which is new to me. On the Walkhighlands route this is an optional descent but from my experience I would rather go up than down it. Definitely not a tourist path. There are some people climbing ahead to take a steer from. I can see small figures on the summits so still a fair way to get up there.

Scramble joins ridge just below North peak

Quite quickly the path has gone along with my stamina, I am puffing away. To be fair there is a faint line of sight that this is the way to go. At times it is full on scrambling, hands, feet, knees you name it. The walking poles are a hinderance not an aid. Water is streaming down in places so a lot of wet and slippery boulders to contend with as well as the scree. 

I was well and truely blowing know but later checking the heart rate data it showed it at a reasonable level, it didn't quite feel that normal at the time. Looking back down the slope a few more walkers are following this route as well.

Looking back from scramble Ben nevis

Finally I am getting there, near the top, a short section of path appears and is very welcome. Reaching the ridge I spot the small boulder pile which marks the end of that bit. Not sure why I struggled a bit, just an off day I hope.

Another short ascent and I am now at the pinnacle, the highest point of the hill. Sadly I am too much of a coward to to go through the opening (didn't do it 1st time either) but a couple of climbers did, well done to them.

Thankfully the views are superb today, the first in how many outings? Even though it is a cold wind up here I spend quite some time just soaking it all in.
A wander about the tops, all great views and then I decide to follow the tourist trail back. The steps are sore on the knees, the scramble seemed easier. Stop and looking at Ime I am surprised how many walkers are on the hill. One big group are about 3/4's way up (maybe a Ramblers group), and below another group about to start their ascent. Cloud briefly smothers the top but quickly blows over. People can be seen climbing up Narnain as well, probably a few are doing double or even triple hills today. Not for me I have climbed Narnain but will make another day out for Beinne Ime. a great day to be outdoors.

North peak with Beinn Narnain behind

On the descent I pass many of the daytrippers who are now out in force, glad I started early. Some of the gear being worn looks more suitable to the clubs than the hills but their choice.
Nice views of Ben Lomond, Loch Long and the Luss area hills to keep me interested on the descent.
Overall an enjoyable nostalgic trip and the weather stayed good, the views superb, what's not to like.

Beinn Dorain

Beinn Dorain (Hill of the small Stream).
Munro: 1076m

Beinn Dorain from south last winter

This iconic hill stands tall and proud, a magnificent volcanic structure, as seen from the south, as you drive from Tyndrum towards Glencoe. I have driven past this hill many times on my way north but not had the opportunity to climb it until today. 

Both Munros posted

Most people will do this as a double act with Beinn an Dothaidh but today it is an outing with the KRG and the leader felt that the double might be beyond some of the group, fair enough, it leaves me Dothaidh for another day.
A 6am alarm and an early start saw us parked up at the Bridge Of Orchy hotel and walking for 10am. With the turbulent weather the forecast has been regularly changing as to how much rain and wind we were to be inflicted with but not expecting a dry day.
The route is straightforward in clear conditions, some care required up top if low cloud, (as per OS Explorer 377 for the non GPS crew). Head to the railway station car park then through the underpass and now follow the clear but very rough and eroded path up the south flank of the Allt Coire an Dothaidh. 

The hills are up there

Our first view upwards was of very low cloud, please lift. On the lower slopes the path is often deep bog and the number of walkers going to the sides to avoid the muck has created serious erosion.  Keep on this track, which on the steeper pitch is now a surface large scree and wet grass/ boulders/rocky slabs, so take care. Some optimism, is that light breaking through the cloud?

First tea break, midges are out and behind and well below us a steam engine with only one carriage pulls into the station, grey smoke belching. Then the clouds have lifted enough that we can see the bealach.

Hemmed in it feels like a proper mountain walk. Two ravens leave the cliffs above and glide over us, are we lunch? After this it is pleasing to reach the cairn at the top of Coire an Dothaidh where the views ahead are opening up across Loch Lyon.

The crossroads

Crossroads time for walkers, on the left is a clear track going up the flanks of Beinn an Dothaidh but for our walk we turned to go on the right path (south). A couple of guys arrive coming down from Dorain, no views to be had they tell us. The going is again fairly clear and on a steady gradient but the clouds have descended giving few views of the route ahead. Just as the forecast predicted gusting high winds picked up followed by belting rain. The rain sadly was now on and off for the rest of the day.

Walker heading for Dorain, Dothaidh behind

We were now in full cloud as we followed the track to the Carn Sasunnaich (the Englishman's cairn). Fairly slow going as the group had to remain in full sight from front to back and in the mist that was not far a distance. 

Another 5 minutes and we were at the summit cairn and as you can see from the snap not a lot to see. I admit I felt slightly deflated, I had been looking forward to the views from this hill for so long, the joys of hill walking. We had a quick lunch as it was too cold and damp to hang about.

Just like Arran the other week as we descended the clouds flirted with us giving us brief tantalising views of what we had hoped to see. The flank of the summit of Dorain can be seen for a few seconds.

Beinn Dorain summit

Still, there was still much to enjoy on the descent. With the weather we just opted to return by the same route and avoided the lower path. At times we had excellent views on our right of Loch Lyon and the surrounding hills.

On our left I can make out the Dalmally horseshoe in the distance, Cruachan behind. It is too windy to get the map out to check and too many hills to identify. Well below us Loch Tulla is a fabulous striking blue colour. Some ants move along the West Highland Way.

The steep flanks of Dothaidh and the view north the waterfall cracks can be seen

There is so much to admire in this landscape and the Bridge of Orchy hotel is now also in view, looking forward to my pint later.
The steep scree section demanded full concentration where we had a few slips but thankfully nothing serious. Admire the waterfall on the right, twin flows cascading down before joining together and thumping into the burn.

The track back to the finish

Finally back at the car. Again longer than if I was walking solo but another enjoyable day. Another hill added to the list that I have to revisit and get that view!!
Time: 6.38
Distance: 7.19m (11.57km)
Ascent: 3061ft (933m)

Caisteal Abhail...A cloudy climb with stunning atmospheric glimpses of the views

Caisteal Abhail from Sail an Im

First time out with the KOIR group and it was a very early alarm call, the 07.00 ferry from Ardrossan. Our destination Caisteal Abhail (Ptarmigan stronghold, we didn't see any) (859m), one of Arran's 4 Corbetts. Some routes combine this with the infamous, scary and dangerous Witch's step route but today we hoped to get a close look at this ridge without the scramble.
As always an unhealthy, but enjoyable, ferry breakfast then the Stagecoach bus to North Glen Sannox bridge parking area where our walk started.

There is an excellent circular route described in Walkhighlands which we used but in reverse, going clockwise. Arguably the views and the walking conditions are better on the descent, but your choice. There are at least 3 burns to cross which could be awkward following heavy rain.

After yesterday's hot blue sky day the walk began with optimism as more of the same was forecast but the low cloud on the hills was sadly never to fully clear for us until we were on the ferry home. However, soon after we began our descent it would tease with us, lifting its grey cloudy veil for a few seconds of stunning views, teasing and tantalising us with what might have been, then just as quickly as it rose the cloud veil was pulled down again.

Garbe Choire

For just over a mile the walk follows the well managed track in North Glen Sannox following the delightful North Sannox burn twisting and turning its way back to the start. Some good deep pools for a cold dip later!
At the open deer fence we followed the burn straight ahead but if walking anti-clockwise cross the burn here, slippy stones, beware.
This way ahead on a good day would have full views of the hills but despite the low cloud it still allowed enough to feel good about the day. Where the burn forks we made a tricky crossing across very slippery boulders, there were a few wet feet and help required for some. At this point a few of us saw what looked like the white head of a deer bobbing into Garbh Choire. Tantalising, there is an albino white deer on Arran but was this it? The full group also had a good sighting of a golden eagle gliding over Sail an Im for at least a minute before soaring upwards into the clouds.

After the burn this next section was very wet and boggy with some deep hidden holes to capture the unwary. We then made another tricky crossing of the same burn before starting the climb proper and heading up the flanks of Cuithe Mheadhonach. This section is a mixture of steep granite slabs and tussocky heather and grass. Although the climbing is relentless the ascent didn't feel too bad, probably because every time you looked up there was cloud a short way ahead and the reality of the climb was hidden. But occasionally it did clear and through the veil of mist the summit looked a long way away. 

But it was not all doom and gloom, to our right there were good views into Garbh Choire and of the ridge we would descend. Indeed, once I spotted some red deer on the flanks the eye was in and there were at least 50 hinds and calves for our group to enjoy, they would be aware but unfazed by us.

Onward we climbed and scrambled until we arrived at the summit area, 3 miles from the start. A brief scramble took us to the summit. Sadly, it was an anti-climax, I was so excited about this walk but we were so enveloped in cloud that you could have been anywhere. Still the rock formations were outstanding examples of what nature is all about. Even a peppa pig lookalike if you use your imagination!!

A 10 minute walk westwards and we stopped for lunch. Guess what, the gods took pity on us. The clouds lifted a bit to give us glimpses of the Witch's Step, Cir Mhor and the North Goatfell ridge. 

Cir Mhor & North Goatfell ridge

Witch's step peaks out

Interestingly the clouds never cleared from the eastern flanks, stopping right at the ridges. Glen Iorsa twisting and turning down below, the Mullach Buidhe ridge & Meall nan Damh, looks a right good but long ridge walk. Loch Tanna shining away. Further west the Mull of Kintyre and to the north Lochranza. Just relax, enjoy and take it all in and until it all started to slip in and out of view as the clouds one more descended and danced around.

Care was needed descending as the track leading down was like marbles at times with the small scree but enough room to the sides to help walking. It sooned eased off. Sadly views down into the Choire remained limited but looking back I almost got a full view of the mountain but not quite.

We had time on our hands before the bus and considered descending into Glen Iorsa and follow the track we could see on the other side of the burn to Lochranza. Not a popular suggestion as it was felt the terrain would be too hard going for some of the group.
So down and over Sail an Im with superb views back down the North Glen, over the water and it looked like the Ayrshire coast was in sunshine!!
After the steep descent another marshy section before reaching the last burn and then retraced the walk in. An hours wait for the bus.
Despite not getting the full views it was an excellent walk in good company. 
I know I will be back to see it in its full glory.
Time: 6 hr 11 min with a few stops
Distance: 7.06 (11.36km)
Ascent: 2706 (825m)

Black Hill Pentlands Just one angry Coo

Black Hill

After my earlier adventures I was parked up at Harlaw car park and set off for the Black Hill (a Sub 2000 501m). It was a hill that I had climbed but quite a few years ago so a good time for a refresher. However, there was one slight problem. A sign indicated that the Black springs walk was closed today and as I had to go over this spot, would my walk be over before it properly starts a second time?

Track to Black Springs

I walked past the reservoirs and cut along the side of Threipmuir to the Black Springs. A digger was sitting idle, tape blocked the crossing and a big hole had been dug. However there were no workmen around so over I went and followed the rising track to the south end of Black hill. I spotted other people in the distance so not the only one to disregard the signs.

East Cairn the distant hill

It was pretty hot so time for water intake and hat on but when I left the track and gained height there was a cooling breeze which was welcomed.
From this end there is no obvious track so I just picked a spot and climbed up beside a fence. A path of sorts appeared so easier walking. When the climb levelled off there was a wooden gate so decision made and over I went. It is a featureless and rather bland hill.

Featureless top

This hill is a managed grouse moor so mainly heather terrain but considering the shooting season is due to start it was very surprising that I never sprung or heard one today.
To get to the top keep following very narrow trails which are either sheep trails or grouse tracks.

Scald Law & the Kips behind estate track

It is not too bad, keep focusing on the white poles which are grouse feeding areas and then bingo, near the top I find a keepers trail which leads all the way to the top. A couple of walkers over to my right the first I met on the hill
At the top the views are excellent particularly of the main Pentlands ridge, Scald Law, the Kips etc. Great views of the bridges and Fife as well as Edinburgh a superb spot to spend some time picking out all the landmarks.

The top

I continued on the track heading east and descending. Some boggy peat areas to negotiate but keep following the track. I met 3 old guys coming up the only other people I met on the hill. I think they were glad of the breather to stop and chat.

Glencorse below

More superb views across the east Pentlands hills as I descended. Then I came across the shooting butts ready for the slaughter, if there are any birds to shoot.

At the bottom I turn left and follow the path back to the Black Springs. This time there are workers but a bit of pleading and I am let over. Very glad as my alternative was back up the trail to Balerno which was a few unwanted miles.

Allermuir etc

Just before the reservoir I came across a field of bullocks. One beside the gate is in a snorting angry mood staring wide eyed at me but I had to laugh as it was desperately trying to undo the rope keeping the gate closed. I walked through the small paddock just as it succeeded in getting in. Could be fun and games if another walker meets it in this enclosed space.

Black Springs

I was wondering what aura I give off that these beasts seem inclined to do me harm, probably fear. More likely they know that I like a succulent rib-eye.
Still another enjoyable day in the countryside.
Distance 6.21 miles (9.99km)
Ascent 982 ft (299m)
Time 2 hours 21min.

3 Donalds ridge walk...Meaul, Coran of Portmark and Cairnsgarroch

This week another day out with the fine folk from the KRC. It was an interesting section of the Rhinns of Kells ridge walk, an up and down day that takes in 3 Donald category hills. The route begins with a walk in then by climbing Coran of Portmark (623m), walking along the ridge to Bow (613m), continue until the highest point of the day Meaul (695m) and then cut across to Cairnsgarroch (659m)and then homewards.

Grey clouds at the start

An early start saw us parked up at the Green Well parking area near Carsphairn and we were walking by 9. After yesterday's awful monsoon conditions fingers crossed but disappointingly there is more grey than blue in the sky, let's be positive.

The track to the mine ruins

Avoid any traffic on the short road section then once over the bridge turn left and follow the track to the abandoned Woodhead lead mines. It is amazing that over 300 people once lived here with their own school, now there are just a few ruins dotted about. You go through a working farm, take care with gates, very grumpy farmer.
Along the track at Garryhorn is another historical spot in the demise of the Covenanters. This was the local base of the infamous Grierson of Lag whose dragoons slaughtered many Covenanters in the area. I love the bit where he was said to be so in league with the devil that at his funeral a black corbie (raven or crow depending on your local speak) perched on the hearse all the way to the grave.

Ruins and hills

After the ruins, go round the back and follow a quad bike trail up the side of Knockower hill and follow the faint lines to the right about two thirds up, going against the ridge and it will soon rise to the trig of Coran of Portmark. There are now superb views down the length of Loch Doon as well as along the ridge you are soon going to walk. Behind excellent views of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn and south with Loch Ken, a silver shining dog leg in the distance.

Loch Doon from Coran of Portmark

The wind was now significantly more than a breeze and turning cold, many jackets were donned, some of the group even adding gloves. Rain can also be seen moving from the west across Craiglee, this is high summer!! But the views are top drawer.
Take time and enjoy this excellent ridge walk with its grand views over 360 degrees. Sadly the wind turbines are aplenty, just try and ignore them. The ridge has some undulating but fine walking. Although we are stopping our walk at Meaul the ridge continues and from here there are also fine views of Carlin's Cairn.

Bow & Meaul from Coran, Merrick on the right

According to the guide on the top of Bow apparently there is a single stone and plaque marking the spot where a Covenanter, John Dempster, was shot by Lag’s dragoons, but we could not find it and with the cold winds not many wanted to hang about.

Meaul ahead

Another up and down on a fairly good plateau track and thankfully we reach Meaul, good views of the high hills including the Corbett Merrick. A stone wall dyke gives us excellent protection from the wind to have a break and enjoy our lunch. So good I thought the wind had died until I stood up.

Meaul trig

We descend some slightly rougher terrain and then climb back up to the cairn at Cairnsgarroch. Underfoot is a getting more challenging, hidden holes in the grass ready to do an ankle to the unwary, but it was to get a lot worse. Time for snaps then a long descent down a steep grassy slope to the burn. 

Cairnsgarroch cairn looking back to the ridge

This was the start of the trickiest section. The grass was still slightly wet and like ice at times, a few slips in the group but thankfully just pride hurt. Once down it was not over as we had about quarter of a mile of treacherous Galloway tussocks and thickets, holes and ditches aplenty and well hidden, every step a potential leg breaking injury. This stretch was not fun.
At the burn a decision was made to cross this straight away which only resulted in one embarrassed water casualty. However, we then had about a mile of the previous terrain, throw in some chest high bracken and you get the picture. 

Squeeze through bracken

Finally back to the Woodhead ruins, no injuries and then we followed the incoming track back to the car.
No doubt that it was one of the slower group walks that I have been on and if it had been a solo trip I reckon I would have cut 1-2 hours off it, but a fun day nevertheless in good company. Plenty of stunning views particularly when the clouds disappeared and we actually got skelped by the sun.
Walk time 7.02 hours. Distance 10.94 miles (17.61km). Ascent 2373 ft (724m).

East Cairn Hill and angry coos

I had a couple of days in Edinburgh but only 1 dry day forecast so decided on a pair of new hills for me, East & West Cairn, outliers of the Pentland hills. East cairn is the sub 2000 Marilyn but the West cairn is only a few metres lower so a good double.

The guide normally suggests coming in from West Linton side but to save a drive in rush hour Edinburgh traffic and I was only 15 minutes away from a drovers trail at the other side so opted for that. The trail is known as the Cauldstane Slap, a very dangerous place in the past as the bandits would attack and murder the cattle drovers.

Amazingly I found the hidden car park without difficulty. It was already hot and the insects were out in force.

East & West Cairn

There is a fairly obvious track to follow but I imagine that this will be very dirty and muddy conditions after a wet spell. There are some walkboards in places but even so I was using my poles as anchors and swinging over many mud patches.

Both hills were clearly in sight but I could see large amounts of cattle ahead, could I bypass them?

After about a mile and a half I had a decision to make, this was a large herd with small calves well spread over. The formal track would go right through them and with calves I was very unsure, no way past without very long detours across wild moorland.

Suddenly I heard cattle on the move close by with much angry bellowing. I was below a small hill so backtracked. Then at the bridge I spotted a group of a dozen or so agitated cows running past the spot I was recently standing at still bellowing loudly and literally disappeared into long grass. No way for me walk ended.

I met a shepherd on my way back and asked him about the cattle. He said the big fields calves were three weeks old and should have bonded with their mothers but still a slight risk. The rampaging lot were a different story. The farmer was moving stock but had separated mothers and calves. This lot were the agitated mothers looking for their calves who had not yet been moved to this field. His advice was well advised to stay out as this lot were very unpredictable.

A few bites to the legs from the insect hordes, a apt ending. I will be back later in the year but probably from the other side.

So back to the car, I was close to the Balerno walks so opted for Black Hill, would that be straightforward?