Another volcanic plug.....A'Chruach

Hill: A’Chruach

Type: Sub2k

Height: 514m

When I woke up this morning I had no plan for the day. Opened the curtains and a nice morning. Checked the weather forecast, winds building but clear. Checked CalMac status, no issues showing. Decision made, a quick preparation and out the door heading for Arran. Luckily my rucksack is almost permanently ready to go.

A’Cruach was my second last Sub2k to do on Arran but I knew that it had a not so positive reputation. Only 64 people have ticked it off on Walkhighlands, that tells its own story. From whichever direction you approach it is said to be a totally pathless boggy moorland walk. Walkhighlands describes it as ‘ quite dreary by the standards of Arran’. But in its favour it is the highest point on the south of the island, as split by the String road, so it deserves to be bagged.

The terrain is not quite the best as I can testify to but possibly because of the time of year it was not as bad as I feared. In saying that it is not a hill to do with snow lying as the bogs and hags are many and deep and could be very dangerous terrain. It is also not a walk to do in high season as the bracken and deep heather, tussocks would make it very difficult.

Lastly, unless you are very sure of navigation it is not one to be done in poor visibility. It is a large featureless moor and although the top is a volcanic plug you would be hard pushed to imagine you are on one. Cruach means an upthrust of rock/stack, appropriate for a volcanic plug.

Now that all the warnings are out of the way here is the trip report as told mainly through the narration of the pictures.

To get to the walk start I got the bus to the top of the String Road, the driver was happy to let me tell him where I wanted dropped off, no formal bus stops up here.

It is behind the high lump centre right

Starting point

Headed for the low point but came back descending the heather

Rough moorland to get to the high point

Wooden narrow walkways required

Summit looking over Glen Rosa

Descent initially heading towards Holy Isle

Hidden building

Thats the descent

Aiming for the white post, safe route for ATV's

Zoomed into Glen Rosa

Cairn appears much larger than summit one

String Road below

Lovely view from Brodick

The downside of the walk at this time of the year was CalMac's fault. There is only one ferry operational which meant a long delay between finishing the hill and getting on a ferry, no buses this time. This meant a walk back down the road. Not a hardship as it was a nice day and on this section I saw my red deer munching away on the slopes and a solitary golden eagle coming from Glen Rosa direction, flying over me towards A’Chruach before gliding down the ridge and heading back to Glen Rosa.

Also the hanging about meant time for a visit to the Douglas Hotel whilst waiting for the ferry, such hardship.

Ascent: 319m

Distance: 6.3km

Time: 2.29

Wildlife: Red Deer; Golden Eagle; Buzzard; Kestrel; Grey Heron; Carrion Crow; Coal Tit; Goldfinch; Wren; Robin; Mallard; Chaffinch; Black Backed Gull;

Arran's wild west.....Sail Chalmadale

 Hill: Sail Chalmadale

Type: Sub2k

Height: 480m

Sail Chalmadale is small Arran hill that I had been meaning to get around to and an opportunity arose when I spotted it on the Arran Mountain Festival programme. This was way back in January and I had totally forgotten about it until it popped up as a calendar reminder the day before I was due to go on it. Wow, quick decision time.

Forecast looked good and the ferry was operational so yes a day trip was on.

On the quiet 7am ferry in good time for my brekkie roll and time to catch up on my sleep as we sailed.

As the group gathered my fears about the ability of a couple of the group to maintain the required pace were rising. More about that as this ramble evolves.

The walk is a rough but fine route on the west of Arran starting at Catacol and finishing at Dougrie, ascending Sail Chamadale en route.

Start of walk 'eagle crags' on left but none spotted

Beinn Tarsuinn (the smaller one) directly ahead

The walk begins by heading up Glen Catacol which I recognised as the final section of my 3 Glens walk. The water on the Abhainn Mor was very low but crystal clear, I would drink out of that if required. Sand Martins flew in and out of an eroded sandy riverbank and a lone sand piper called and flew away near by. Not long before the Cuckoos began calling, we reckoned 2 on our right and at least one on the left. And superbly a female on our left started calling and we then spotted a pair flying, great start. Although the walk started with many heavy grey clouds it improved and we had no rain.

The track at this point is narrow, alternatively boggy and stony.

Heading up the glen Ben Bhreac slopes on left

Example of track with enclosure ahead

Uniquie Arran Whitebeam tree

At a ford the left turn becomes Gleann Diomhan but we crossed the burn and continued south up Glen Catacol, starting to be hemmed in on our right by the flanks of Beinn Bhreac. There are a few fenced off plantations presumably protecting the rare to Arran Whitebeam tree. These are restricted to the northern part of the island and are numbered in their hundreds.

Waterslide

The track was now rising and the broad waterfall bringing down the Allt nan Calman was a spectacular rolling slab of stone. A cairn is reached at point 336m and here the terrain changes. The walk leaders had been concerned about the slow pace of the group, the most concern being me getting back for the last ferry. The slower ones were offered the opportunity to go back at this point with a guide but nope they wanted to continue. The guides knew I was capable so offered me the option of going solo, something I said I might take up later.

Enter the bog of Loch Tanna

From L-R Castail Abhail, Cir Mhor, A Chrois, Beinn Tarsuinn & Beinn Nuis

Cnoc Breac on left Sail Chalmadale top on right

We were now walking on the west side of Loch Tanna, a really remote spot but scenic on a day like this, not much chance of meeting anyone else out here. It was really wet, I suppose it never dries out. So much so we were heading higher to get better walking which for the most part was good.

However one of the tail enders slipped on the muddy slopes and was well covered in gloop. Not hurt and I was not alone in having a smirk but then it took another 15 minutes before they could get going again.

Now I was getting more concerned. The pick up was for 5pm but at our rate of progress the group were going to need to put that back, problem at this stage, no phone signal, oh dear. The views over the eastern hills were fantastic as the light kept changing with passing clouds.

Chalmadale from Cnoc

Down into peat hag terrain then up the boulder strewn nose of Cnoc Breac. By this time the stragglers were well behind and the guide was just as concerned as I was and luckily we got a signal. Decision made I was going solo to try and meet the pick up at 5 where they would wait 15 minutes or it had to be a pick up with the main group, no pressure then. It was now 3.30.

A short descent and reascent and I was on top of Sail Chalmadale. A quick look round then along the ridge knowing there were crags on the nose so decision time when I reached them about which flank to take. A rugged little mountain but as always with a stand alone hill superb views.

View from cairn on Sail

Loch Sail in snap along with track to Dougarie

Standing at the top I could see Loch Sail Chalmadale where I knew and atv track would be picked up. It looked a long way down.

I decided to turn right/west, down the steep grassy rakes, adjusting my route as required.

With relief I was down but the terrain between me and the loch might have been flattish but it was the worst of the walking. Tussocks abounded but they were islands in marshy terrain so the going was slower than I wanted. Further relief when I found the atv track but it was so slippery that it was easier walking to the sides. Still pace picked up.

Looking back from Sail loch to Sail hill

I could now see the Iorsa Water and its hard packed track which would lead me to Dougarie. The bracken here was the highest I have seen this year, will soon be obscuring the track. Another ford to cross, no stepping stones, this could be interesting with higher water levels. 

Looking back along Iorsa Water

Just the river section left which was scenic, maybe just my relief at being off the hill.

The land owner has put in a separate track in for walkers to keep them away from his house but it is still a decent track.

At 4.40 I reached the water and 10 minutes later my transport arrived. So good that I even made the relief catamaran rather than the last boat. On the ferry I got a text from the guide, around 6.40 pm, saying that was them at the parking area. Getting to the last ferry would have been extremely tight so I made the right call.

As a ramble I thoroughly recommend it if you want to see Arran from a different perspective and want the feeling of real isolation. Naismith rule suggested 4 hours 30 and 6 hours would be more than ample. I have finally learned my lesson re group walking with strangers lol.

Ascent: 552m

Distance: 15.5km

Time: 6.45

Wildlife: Stonechat; Cuckoo; Sand piper; Golden plover; Sand Martin; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Raven,

A hot day on Arran.....Cir Mhor

 Hill: Cir Mhor (The great comb)

Type: Corbett

Height: 798m

Another day to get excited about. It was to be my 1^st trip to Arran since Covid, almost 3 years has passed, unbelievable. But maybe I wasn't as excited when my alarm went off as I was going for the first ferry. But I sure was by the time I was on board and had my traditional CalMac breakfast roll.

The objective today was Cir Mhor, known as the Matterhorn of Arran, no arguments from me.

We were going through Glen Rosa but there are no buses to the String Road that tie up with this ferry. The other bus driver said she would stop as close as she could but she forgot about us, thankfully not much of an overshoot so a short walk back.

It was a hot morning even this early.

Anticipation builds as the hills are spotted ahead as we enter Glen Rosa. The walk through Glen Rosa was different. The foliage was long and so overgrown the path could not be seen at times. Lots of ski style shuffling feeling for obstacles. But the worse was the insect life. Lots of minor bites and a couple of cleg ones. One of them was 3 bites through my shirt on my back right at my rucksack. At first I thought it was just a twisted strap but nope, real bites.

So it was relief to reach the junction and start the climb proper.

That's a proper pointed peak of a mountain

Cir Mhor was looking magnificent, a grey fortress with a stunning peak against a clear blue sky what a sight.

When we reached the corrie a cooling breeze was very welcome, I had been feeling it in that heat.

Looking over to Loch Tanna, Beinn bharrain & Meall nan Damh

Up the short zig zag track and the north and west of Arran is your magnificent vista.

Lost the correct track going through the boulders and thought we had found it but it was heading for An Caisteal. So a direct line up through the grass and boulders and came across the track.

It is an interesting climb and the latter section requires hands on minor scrambling before the top is reached.

The ridge to 3 Beinns

Glen Sannox and Witches Step on left

Goatfell Glen rosa side

At the top is a small area for about 4 people to sit and take in the view. The views are amazing looking over to the Witches Step. Glen Sannox far below with the blue waters of the Firth beyond. Goatfell of course dominates and looking down Glen Rosa both the Holy Isle and Ailsa Craig can be seen in the haze.

Glen Rosa with Ho;y Isle in background

One final look back at a stunning mountain

We followed the same route back. Grateful that the breeze was now lower which made the walk through Glen Rosa much more pleasant. It is still a long haul but the beasties were hiding.

Common Darter

Dark Green Fritillary

One of the frustrations is the non buses to meet the extra summer sailings a disgrace for a tourist island. So the long walk back to Brodick and we missed the ferry by 10 minutes. Time to hang about and take in the scenery.

A cracking walk on a beautiful day.

Ascent: 878m

Distance: 20.5

Time: 7.01

Wildlife: Common Darter; Meadow Pipit; Scotch Argus; Dark Green Fritillary;

Goatfell but not the tourist track, the scary scramble version.

 Hill: Goatfell via North Goatfell

Type: Corbett

Height: 874m

Another CalMac crossing, I'm becoming a regular these days, this time a sailing to Arran. A pleasant crossing soon passed after a CalMac brekkie roll and good company.

Glen Sannox with Cioch na h-Oighe on the left

Crossed the burn before The Saddle looking back down Glen Sannox

The initial plan for today's walk was to ascend Goatfell from Sannox via the Cioch na h-Oighe. But the best laid plans and all that. The gusting winds put paid to that, potentially too dangerous on the ridge.

The chute

The result was a longer walk up the beautiful Glen Sannox to the first obstacle of the day, The chute that leads to the Saddle. The blue skies and tranquil surroundings made us blaze about what lay ahead. Not tackling the ridge might have seemed the easier option but it was far from that. A few scary moments lay ahead.

The Saddle has a steep chute which is normally challenging but straightforward. Today the rock was wet and slippyery. One person got up it but I could not get a grip with either hands or feet so elected to retreat. The group now ascended via a section nearby which was slightly drier but still a technical challenge for most of the group. Slow progress, helping hands and a few elevated heart rates but we got there. With relief a short break was taken on the top of the Saddle.

Jagged ridge ahead

Scrambling starts again. Goatfell on the right

Rugged landscape. The Witches Step gash on the right

Next obstacle was the climb to North Goatfell. A good track took us most of the way up before the intimidating final section of what now looked like a proper Alpine ridge.

Another steep chute with big drops caused more high stress. We had to keep a distance in case the person in front slipped/fell taking others down as well. Another wet rock section with minimal foot and hand holds was a challenge for most although a couple of the group made it look easy. Easy it was not.

Cir Mhor the spike behind with The Saddle the flatter ground to the right

View down Glen rosa. Is the rock a snake or crocodile?

But we made it to North Goatfell with outstanding views to savour.

Sadly, this was not our top. We now had another ridge with more potentially tricky scrambling and exposure. Even getting to the start of this involved hairy descents over steep slippy rocks, bum sliding at times on these descents.

A debate ensued and the party split with about half, including me, taking the bypass route.

Bypass route

North Goatfell's ridge to Goatfell

Some of the group on top of the rocky scramble

A narrow trail with some exposed minor scrambling before we finally reached Goatfell itself. Looking back the other group were still some ways back. Best decision for a long time to go bypass lol.

The descent

A scenic lunch at the top before making the long, long descent back via the tourist track to Brodick. Most had a well-deserved ice cream, a few a beer.

My face was skelped with a combination of the bright day and the high winds which meant I never felt the sunburn until too late. Plenty of Aloe Vera gel will be applied.

This was a stunning but tough day. Most of the group were experienced walkers but most were feeling significant leg muscle tiredness. A cracking day but I can live without the higher stress levels for a midweek walk.

Ascent: 939m

Distance: 15.7km

Time: 7.24

Wildlife: Raven; Common Darter; Common Blue Dragonfly;