Plenty of boulders, stones and scree, typical Assynt.....Conival & Ben More Assynt

 Hill: Conival (Adjoining Hill) (987m) & Ben More Assynt (Big hill of Assynt) (998m)

Type: Munro x2

Ascent: 1291m

This pair of Munros had been on my original 100 Munro list but for various reasons it did not happen but today I had the opportunity to try and tick them off.

I knew from my research that this was almost certainly going to be a gruelling ramble, not just are they the highest peaks in Assynt but the terrain, mainly made up of boulders and scree for much of the higher terrain, made for hard going. Throw in yesterdays heavy rain which should make the lower boggy sections even more so. Forewarned is forearmed as they say.

I arrived at the car park just after 7am where the only other occupant was just walking out without any form of acknowledgement, I wondered if we were doing the same hills.

Health & Safety risk of the day

After yesterdays deluge today was forecast to be drier but right now the low grey skies suggested not a lot had changed. Indeed there was light drizzle at the start but that did not put off the midgies.

It is a fairly long walk in before gaining any height but I enjoyed my ramble along Gleann Dubh which looked atmospherically scenic in the early morning light. I spotted a walker a good way ahead, presumably car park man.

Time to climb towards the Coll

The track was mainly good, very narrow and eroded in places but no issues. Just avoided taking the turn to Tragill Caves or I would have added to the distance with a U turn. The burn was making a fair old noise as it flowed over many small falls but as a Piscean i enjoy that sound.

After around 4k the track started the seemingly never ending ascent to Conival. The clouds were slowly lifting so I was now getting a view of just how high I was going to ascend, maybe I didn’t need that reminder.

The track followed to the left of the Allt a’ Choinne Mhill and although it had been relayed with large irregular stones it was still a muddy climb. The burn was running full and fast, the rocks all covered in moss and I was very aware that I needed to cross it at some point. Indeed after the deluge the hills were shedding water big style and the at times the track was itself a mini burn. Glad I had put on the leather boots.

Scramble required

The looming crags looked interesting particularly as I could not see an obvious way up, a scramble was clearly necessary but where?

As it turned out the burn crossing was straightforward as was the minor scramble on the section I chose, just to the right of the waterfall.

After the scramble the terrain was full on scree and boulders, not so hard ascending but I knew the descent would be a different story for my legs.

BMA on the left

Still no sign of the summit of Conival

The meandering track rose and rose, every point I thought might be the top was definitely not. On my left I could see the ridge to BMA and initially my mood dropped as I mistakenly thought that I was looking at Conival with the further ridge being BMA. My initial feel good thoughts that I was making good time disappeared. A pause for a map check confirmed it was BMA but where was Conival? Finally after another potential top the cairn finally appeared and I was right on the SMC time of 3 hours, very pleased with that.

View from Conival to BMA

From Conival looking down on the Corbett of Breabag

Having arrived at Conival BMA looked not that far away but I was well aware that it was not as close as it looked and would not be a stroll in the park. A quick break for nutrition as well as taking in the views.

The route to BMA

Indeed there and back was probably the most uncomfortable stretch of Munro walking that I have experienced. The SMC route stated it would take 45min each way. I managed 55min out and 1 hour back which I felt was good and I was surprised it did not take me longer. The constant scree/boulder walking/scrambling was so awkward that absolute full concentration was required. There was always the constant risk of tripping with non thinkable potential consequences. My legs and hips were getting a full workout.

View from the ridge down to the Dubh Loch Mor

Typical terrain

View from BMA summit across to its twin top

Looking from BMA back to Conival, wild stuff

At the top of BMA my plan was to eat but I decided to snack only and get the return stress out of the way and eat properly at Conival. The return seemed slightly easier but on the final scramble up to Conival I was feeling tired, too little nutrition. Some great views but that is one section I will never do again, Conival yes, BMA a big no no. The scree hills in this area produces spectacular scenery, one great example below looking north.

Back on Conival nice to see some greenery

View back to the start at left of the Loch Assynt

A deserved food break on Conival but now I was not really hungry so more snacking. Enjoyed the views before the long descent which just repeated the ascent. I had forgotten just how far down the stone section lasted. 

My tortured legs, feet and hips really struggled until I reached the flat track back along Gleann Dubh. Highlight was spotting a small herd of red deer hinds. Initially just one appeared profiled on the ridge but once it started grazing more appeared.

Back on the relative flat the sun was now out and it was hot which brought out the clegs and midgies.

I was relieved to get back to the car and refresh my feet with some cooling wipes.

I was delighted with my time and stamina. A good tough ramble with spectacular views but I cannot see me repeating it.

Distance: 19.5km

Time: 8.14

Wildlife: Golden Eagle; Common Frog; Red deer hinds & stags; Pied Wagtail; Grey Wagtail; Sparrowhawk (m); Meadow Pipit; House Martin; Sand Martin; Moth;

A Pilgrim ramble.....St Ninians Cave

Walk: St Ninians's Cave

This short ramble was inspired by the Pilgrims walk from Glasgow to Whithorn but this is certainly not the full walk, only a very, very short section, the final mile or so. A recent visit to the Govan Stones and a chat with the staff kicked it off. Many pilgrims past and present would have visited the Govan site en route. Well worth visiting.

I was in the area for a break with the good lady site who was happy with a short walk to visit this historic place.

Scotland has so much history of all kinds and on my rambles I enjoy stopping and immersing myself in locations and try to imagine the sounds, sights, smells etc. of that history.

St Ninians Cave has been documented as a place of worship and healing back to the 8^th century. St Ninian is reputed to be the 1st Saint in Scotland, 397AD. That's a huge wow for me. The Latinus Stone on display at the Priory is the oldest surviving Christian memorial.

The ramble will be narrated mainly via the snaps.

Well sign posted

Despite the time of year the birds were still singing in this lovely wooded section

Out of the woods there are options

But we continued straight on down Physgill Glen where the water soon came into view. Despite it being summer the weather was cool, the water was gunmetal grey rather than Mediterranean blue but this is Scotland.

Colourful flora such as this Campion all around the path as we walked down

Evidence of geological upheaval 

A true shingle beach to cross to wards the cave seen ahead. Not much different to what the 8th century pilgrims would have seen

How smooth are these?

A recent podcast suggested that rocks with this quartz strata lining had a good chance of containing a fossil. Same podcast examined rocks from Nairn area and found some minerals had only be found in rocks in Estonia. Considering they started being formed sub equator they have travelled a long way.

Just reflect on the exact spot and cave entrance, those early travellers all stood here. The interior has collapsed so only the entrance is clear, although danger of rockfall signs around.

Not quite sure she is a pilgrim!

Free Sea Kale for your foraging diet

Rock Pipit

Trail back that away

The season is coming to an end

So an excellent short ramble. For those a lot more adventurous the walk can be comfortable extended by doing a circuit from Whithorn or including some of the way marked coastal paths.

Time to relax, some mead would be appropriate.

No wet feet today.....Am Faochagach

Hill: Am Faochagach (The Heathery Place)

Type: Munro

Height: 954m

There is one big problem with bagging this Munro and that is the Abhainn a’Ghrabainn. Described by Walkhighlands as ‘a substantial watercourse and can be a formidable obstacle when in spate conditions impassable’. Indeed I have watched videos of less than spate conditions and even in these the crossing looked challenging, at least the chance of wet feet.

We started at the same car park for the eastern Fannichs on another glorious day. The renowned initial section is known for its bogs and although there were some it was mainly dry.

Just think about this flowing knee high and you cannot see the bottom when wading?

I had brought along my river crossing sandals but on the day a decision had to be made. It was running very low but I had not appreciate just how much of a boulder field it was on the river bed. We decided to rock hop, there were many slimy boulders waiting to catch us out but we made it. Even with knee deep water this would be a nasty little crossing with the amount of boulders embedded in the river bed.

Heading for the bealach, summit not in sight from here

Once across the terrain was very dry, the 2^nd bog patch not really arriving. However with the dry & heat there were lots of flying bitey stuff, glad I had sprayed fully before walking.

It is a steady climb to the bealach. The lower section was on a reasonable narrow path running alongside the burn with a small waterfall, no doubt more spectacular at other times but still a good spot for refilling bottles.

After that the going is more boulder strewn with the path coming and going and quite a few not required cairns, more for artistic merit than navigation aids.

Beinn Dearg & Loch nan Eilean (and a UFO)

Although it is a direct plod the higher you go the more mountains you can see so lots of stops and looking around, Beinn Dearg is so close.

After reaching the ridge it is a reasonable slog on a decent gradient all the way to the summit. Again on and off paths but much more boulder strewn. On our way to the summit we passed at least 3 Ptarmigan so a good spot for them.

Summit comes into view

The final 50m rise to the summit was interesting as there seemed to be a series of moraines all with around a foot or so of rise/drop. Possibly the effect of the ice age where the glaciers were melting bit by bit? Interesting geological feature anyway.

Summit to Beinn Dearg

Seana Braigh from summit, cairn is on the left

Worth spending time up here as the views are top notch. A super view of the top plateau of Seana Braigh.

Straightforward descent by simply repeating the ascent including the boulder hop. On the way down we passed more walkers than I expected to see for a midweek ramble, a busy hill today.

Great views on the descent of the Fannichs and Loch a’Ghrabainn. In the distance the Fisherfields, Torridon and much more.

Annoyingly we also saw two walkers with dogs, off leads, running about the boulders potentially scaring away any ground nesting birds, there are still idiots around.

Ascent: 774m

Distance: 14.6km

Time: 5.22

Wildlife: Cuckoo (heard); Meadow Pipit; Ptarmigan x3; Raven; Red Grouse; Chimney Sweep moth;