I had completed my 30 mile cycle this morning along the stunning Sound of Mull so I was looking for an easy but interesting walk and boy did I find one. Our cottage in Ardtornish had a folder with some short walks so we chose this one as Mrs would be accompanying me so not a long one.
The following details are taken from the Rahoy website and saves me typing:
There are excellent views on route of the surrounding hills of Braigh Uladail to the east and Meall Achadh a’ Chuirn and Monadh Meadhoin to the west, and Meall Lochan nan Lorg, Mam na Cѐire, Meall a Chaise, Tom Aonghais, Beinn Bhan and Beinn nam Beathrach to the north.
The route passes through Atlantic oakwood, open heath and grassland. These Atlantic oak woodlands, designated as a Special Area of Conservation, support diverse assemblages of lichens, mosses and liverworts, as well as a species rich ground flora, dominated by the compactly tufted purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea), interspersed with hard fern (Blechnum spicant), male and butler ferns (Dryopteris spp ). Calluna-Erica-Vaccinium assemblages dominate the open areas of the hillside, with bog myrtle (Myrica gale), bog asphodel (Narthecium ossifragum), cotton grass (Eriophorum angustifolium) and heath spotted orchids (Dactylorhiza maculata) in the wetter areas. Look out for patches of insectivorous sundews (Drosera spp) and butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris), as well as the mixed bryophyte communities in the boggy areas. There are also intricate patchworks of lichens on boulders and outcrops.
Look out for golden eagle, buzzard, golden plover, greenshank, stonechat, skylark and red deer in the hills and heath. Listen out for tree pipit, flycatchers, redstart, redpoll, wood warbler, siskin and greater spotted woodpecker in the woodlands. Look for dippers and otters in fast flowing sections of the river. Along the route seek out the tracks and signs of pine marten, wildcat, short-eared owl and fox. Overall, a good place for seeking out wildlife associated with hills, mountains, heath, woodland and rivers.
The route is a mixture of gentle ascents with flat sections along a well-defined track.
It was already 20 plus degrees when we parked the car and made our way up the initial section which is a gradual steady climb on a decent path. Already good views of the Rahoy Hills particularly the flanks of Meall Achadh a'Chuirn on our left, a few sheep grazing the steep slopes. An excellent variety of trees some of which we could actually identify.
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| Black Water river |
There was a constant display by brown/orange dragonflies, blue damsels abound. Strange as these blue ones only get seen on my trout water at the end of summer. Patches of cotton grass sway in the gentle breeze.
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| Cotton grass |
Disappointingly not much birdlife in the trees. We spotted the occasional chaffinch and blue tit as well as a dipper in the river but not a lot else. No raptors the entire walk, very disappointed in that.
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| U formed hill view |
Further along the track there were pools of water drying out. In one were about 20 tadpoles but with no forecast of rain the future was not looking good for them.
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| Stranded tadpoles |
Just as we left the trees a cuckoo flew past going into them. At one point we had 3 different males calling. Over the last month cuckoo's calling has been a constant for me, no shortage of these males.
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| Meandering Black Water River |
Once out of the treeline there is a real feeling of large scale wilderness only marked by the Black River meandering through the glen. Although wide spaced there is still a feeling of enclosure, not threatening but a real sense of isolation.
Then I spot movement on the ridge of Beinn Chlaonleud, get out the binos and yes there is a solitary stag looking into the glen, at us I don't know but pretend so. As it turned out the only one we saw all day.
As we cross the old bridge over the river small brown trout can be seen moving across the rocky bottom, I don't think these will have seen many artificial flies.
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| Mountain other side of Loch Sunart peeks over |
The walk heads towards a ruined homestead and the views north are spectacular and rugged. These apparently bare, stony hills come together to give you a U shaped perspective, quite stunning. No doubt before the clearances many families made a hard living here but now not a sole bar us. We walk on towards a more modern house at Crosben (a place name on the OS map), empty but looking in reasonable condition, I wonder if it is an estate shooting lodge.
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| Barren countryside |
Our walk description ends here and it was enough for the Mrs. The return is by the same route.
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| The old and modern |
However, later whilst relaxing with a well deserved beer (Jarl) I was studying the OS map which shows a low level trail continuing further up the glen heading north then east to eventually join up with the road to Lochaline/Loch Sunart. I also spotted a couple of hill lochs worth a diversion from the track and will explore with my travel rod on my next visit.
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| Golden-ringed butterfly |
On the way back we had some great close views of Golden-ringed dragonflies, big, the female is the UK's longest dragonfly. Then on the track a pearl-bordered fritillary butterfly wings spread sunning itself.
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| Pearl-bordered fritillary |
The distance was just under 6 miles with only 300 foot of elevation but boy it seemed like the walk was wort much more. Do it if you can.
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| Mrs had enough heading home |
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