Ayrshire Coastal Way Blackwaterfoot - Pirnmill A long road walk

Back to Arran for another leg of the coastal way. I was getting the earlier 8.20 ferry to give me extra time on the island. However, on arrival at Brodick this ferry is met by only one bus, which goes across the island to Blackwaterfoot. So my decision was made for me to walk north heading for Imacher or even Pirnmill to meet the bus to the ferry. Rant time. Why on a tourist island can they not run a circular bus hourly, there surely must be demand and it would ease traffic on these narrow island roads.

Blackwaterfoot

This is a long mainly tarmac road section. It does run parallel to the beach for much of the time but this coastal section is mainly rocks and pebbles with very little flat sand. By all means choose it but it will be very hard and slow going.
The crossing was late in sailing which meant there would not be time to get to the Co-op in Brodick for supplies. Another Calmac black pudding & fried egg roll to start the day, it’s a hard life. A very smooth crossing so out on deck with the binoculars. Spotted porpoises, gannets, guillemot, razorbill and shearwater. Plus the non nature bit, a submarine on the surface just off the south west coast of Arran.
Got onto the only bus with 6 others and it deposited me in Blackwaterfoot for 10.10. A very pretty small village with a hotel, not many of them on Arran. 

First beach section

The walk heading north crosses the attractive bridge and heads along the road where it quickly joins the beach at the very attractive Shiskine golf course. More people around than I expected, as it was all day, I think it is England’s half term school holiday. The sand is very soft, feet sinking well in, could be a long day but it only continued for a short spell. The official route cuts across the golf course but today I stayed on the coast without any problems and I would recommend this. 

Boulder field & basalt crags

After a mile there is short but tricky boulder crossing. There is a faint route to follow but take care particularly if wet and slippy. Once through this and past the basalt rock crags the path points upwards. Why, out with the map. Do not follow the zig zag as I believe that this takes you to the Kings Cave car park. For some reason this detour takes you a short distance up then follows a higher path but it is just as easy to stick to the coast. Good sea views across the Kilbrannan sound to Kintyre. I spot a pair of Goosander with 9 fluffy chicks trailing behind. Got me thinking that you see lots of fluffy chicks with their parents but you never see them ‘teenager’ size, what happens do they become adults overnight?

Kings Cave

A bit further on you spot a series of caves including the metal gate of the Kings Cave which is open for you to explore and look for ancient carvings, difficult to see them, at least for me, it is also rather chilly in here so not stopping for long. Funny incident, I could have sworn there were people approaching the cave on the noisy rocks. When outside nobody to be seen, odd.

Machrie & Beinn Bharrain

The route then climbs away from the coast and gives you great views of the moor and the way ahead. The mountains stand proud in the blue sky. The walk flanks the forest heading inland for about a mile until you reach a car park. This is annoying for a coastal walk. Presumably land issues stopping it following the coast. That is about 5 miles walked and most of the way forward is now tarmac. Turn left and head towards Machrie and look out for traffic it is a narrow twisty road.

Burial chamber

At Machrie moor I decide to break from the tarmac and walk into the burial chamber, adding about a mile to the route. I opt against the walk to the standing stones as doing it later in year with my good lady. If doing it add another mile and half to your trip.

Machrie golf course

Back on tarmac and the quaint Machrie golf course is reached along with a tea room should you wish to stop and refresh. The police helicopter is buzzing about the moor nearby along with coastguard rescue support, people spread out crossing a field with dogs, an exercise or for real? ( I found out next day it was for real, a missing local man).
The weather is glorious and I am glad I am walking north, the light is so much better and the views of the mountains along with the seascape, wonderful. The heat is well up and the sun lotion is applied, wish I had worn shorts. Plenty of cyclists doing the round island trip today along with many picnickers parked alongside the sea wherever they can.

Walk ends around left hand side of the mountains

A pair of seals are thrashing about close to shore, mating or playing? Both spot me, heads only visible then they continue their whatever. Delightful. Herons aplenty looking to spear lunch.
Across the bridge at Dougarie lodge, an impressive home and still follow the coastal road. Annoyingly I have got pain and the start of a blister, odd as these shoes and socks have never blistered before, I can only put it down to the tarmac walking. Even more annoyingly I have left my plasters and cream in my fishing bag. A change into lighter socks helps a bit but too far gone. I reckon on 4 miles still to go, decision time, sit and wait on the bus, not  due for 90 minutes or so or walk on. I don’t even pass any sheep to get some coat to use as medicinal padding which I have read about but not tried.

Peacock & pal

I carry on and the road turns uphill. There are no route signs that I could see pointing north along the shore and in retrospect I should have followed the coast from here for about 2 miles of tarmac relief. Instead, I went past what I presume are the Imacher cottages. A very loud piercing screech from the derelict courtyard is surprising and I soon spot a culprit, a peacock amazing, when I got out of bed this morning I never expected to see one of them today.

Leave road on right here

A bit further hobbling down the road I can see Pirnmill ahead. I also come across the children’s swing where you leave the road for the short coast section if you are walking from Pirnmill. 

Pirnmill

In the village there is a restaurant and shop but more importantly in 20 minutes the bus to the ferry. My foot is throbbing, thankfully not a full blown blister as got a Munro planned for the weekend.
Great coastline, superb views but a long tarmac walk.
Distance 13.96 miles (22.47km). Time 4.34. Ascent 1173 feet (347m).