Arran Coastal Way Whiting Bay - Lamlash

Walk: Whiting Bay - Lamlash Arran Coastal Way….then to Brodick
Category: Long Distance trail
Stage 1
Recovering from some surgery I was not allowed to do anything strenuous but being driven house crazy I risked a trip to Arran for this short walk.
Like many sections of this islands coastal walk it involved a mixture of terrains. The odd sandy beach sections, some very rough beach/boulder walking as well as the expected road sections.

The start of the walk Whiting Bay

When I got off the bus at the southern end of Whiting Bay it was a crisp blue sky morning but the wind had a cold bite to it, zip up,
Still, the views were already stunning as I perused the way forward, the curving beach, Holy Isle peaking out behind.
Thankfully the tide was out so it was straight onto the rocky beach to the other end of Whiting Bay.

Cool bus stop

Just before I turned down the minor road to the church I spotted this cracking bus shelter, more like this please.

Easy to miss the cut in marker

Past the houses onto the stone beach for a very short section before cutting onto a parallel path (easy to miss the signpost), horses in one of the fields but they were uninterested in me.

Holy Isle

At this grassy area it was a superb viewpoint across the water to Holy Isle and turning also a good view along to Lamlash. There is a view marker for those unfamiliar with the area. This stretch must be a good spot for otters but not seen today.

Lamlash ahead

Now comes the boring bit as the track heads inland, followed by some road walking before heading back down to the coast.

Start of boardwalk

This is the start of the on off boardwalk section. The well built section had to be stepped carefully as the boards were very slippy at times and I was concerned about my wound, do not fall!!
The boards only last for a short while before a steep and very muddy track down to the shore.
Now the real test for this leg, a really awkward walking section. Thankfully the tide was out, if not this would very testing for some walkers. There is no route through the trees so it would be tide top hugging time.

Glad tide is out

This is a mixture of waters edge walking comprising very slippery rocks and boulders, piled up seaweed, the odd sandstone sections and on off boardwalks. A section to remain focused if injury to be avoided.

Low water easy walking

Finally I get to walk on a beach section with Lamlash not far ahead of me. When I reached the houses I thought I could continue on the beach but not so due to two burns. I negotiated the first one but the second was too deep and wide so backtracked to the houses and a path to Lamlash.
This section was a sad reminder of life and death. My operation could have been a life or death scenario but ended up not being and I enjoyed today because I could.

Holly

There was this bush adorned with woollen Pom Poms. Intrigued I read it was a memorial to a young local girl, Holly, who had taken her life. A sign asked people to take some and give them to young people with a reminder about mental health guidance. I did just that to mine with a hug to the girls.

Brodick new track

My walk finished the trail leg in Lamlash but I had enough time before the ferry so I walked the new path, which follows the main road, back to Brodick.
I had completed the Brodick - Lamlash coastal section last year so now only the Lagg - Whiting Bay section via the headlands to complete the Way. Need to check the tide tables for that one.
A good walk, more taxing than I should have done, poignant with Holly so a day to remember.

Wildlife: Red Breasted Merganser, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Mallard, Redshank, Mute Swan, Black Headed Gull, Common Gull, Lesser Black Backed Gull,

Time: 4.04
Ascent: 1952ft 
Distance: 10.43m 

Arran Coastal Way Blackwaterfoot - Lagg

Walk: Blackwaterfoot - Lagg Arran Coastal Way
Category: Long Distance trail
A beautiful crisp blue skied winters day was the forecast to continue my ramble around Arran. This short walk even allowed me the luxury of the later ferry and of course a black pudding & fried egg Calmac special for nutrition. Don’t worry healthy fruit for the rest of the trip.
However as the ferry approached Arran the vista was grey skies and low clouds, what’s going on?
Got the bus across The String road where the gloom worsened but yippee blue skies as we descended into Blackwaterfoot. 
This was to be one of the very frustrating Arran Coastal Path sections. Initially fun and challenging before becoming a road walk, albeit a scenic one. The real frustration was constantly looking down towards the coast wondering why am I not walking down there. I presume there are landowner access problems but despite being quite and scenic, road walking is not a Coastal Path. More on this later.

Start of walk at Blackwaterfoot

The coastal section is rough and ready walking. The sand is mainly very soft so deep imprints left behind. 

Typical rough walking

Early on the rocks were lethal with an invisible film of ice creating issues on any angled surfaces. At times there is a faint track to follow but a lot of the beach walk is as per the above snap.
Having to concentrate looking down at all times is annoying as the views across the water are superb. Also plenty of birds around so best stopping to have a look.

One of the Preachers Caves

The sun is low and bright and directly ahead so most snaps are looking back.
I pass the Preaching caves no doubt an extremely remote place back then for the worshippers.

There is the odd waymark signpost

The next section meanders through and over boulders. Once again great care required as I found out when I slipped and my hand landed on a bramble branch lying on another rock. The pop as I pulled it out was loud, my shout was louder as the pain kicked in and the blood spouted.
Three black throated divers on the water console me.

Rock trail

Some stones/rocks have been laid to aid walking as the ground beside them is a bogfest, ankle deep as I found out when slipping yet again.

The climb to the road

Soon the grassy area is reached and sadly this is the end of the rough walking. Except the cows have clearly been here recently and the ground is soft underfoot so more mud steps. Up the steps to the road.

Looking back to the grassy section

I followed the route as per Walkhighlands but later looking at the Arran Coastal Way website it hints at a ‘red route’ along the shorefront avoiding a section of the road. No details given so presumably just make your way along!!

Ancient cairn and the coast is far away!!

The road was a pleasant enough walk, there was very little traffic and there were plenty of views of the coastline that I would rather have been walking. Enjoy the views until Lagg is reached. 

This is 2019?

A new Arran distillery is under construction. Arran malt must be selling well as the Lochranza set up is a large and popular tourist destination. It looks to me a long way from being finished, definitely not 2018 then!!

Lagg hotel & cycling cafe

The hotel and café is closed so no refreshments just a cold snowy wait until the bus arrives.

Wildlife: Raven, Hooded Crow, Jackdaw, Buzzard, Goldfinch, Chaffinch, Dunnock, Mistle Thrush, Mallard, Black Throated Divers, Goldeneye, Wigeon, Grey Heron, Redshank, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Feral pigeon, 

Time: 2.51hr
Ascent: 742ft 
Distance: 6.89m

Arran Coastal Way Pirnmill - Lochranza

Rest day of my short break on Arran. The good lady was joining me today so a short section of the Arran Coastal Way was in order.
We got the very busy bus from Brodick to Pirnmill to walk the section back to Lochranza. At Pirnmill a very interesting church not many like this around, a small corrugated iron building and sheep grazing.

Pirnmill Kirk

The down side of this walk was that most of it became road walking rather than coast walking. Sadly too much of the ACW is like this.

Typical boulder strewn coast

The tide was in but even if it was out very few sections are accessible. Those sections that are off road were boulder fields and unless you are a masochist there is no pleasure in walking on this surface. The good lady is not out for a walk to endure so more road sections for us.

One of the swan nests

One group not bothered with the terrain were swans as we went by at least four occupied nests some very close to the road.
Although we had blue skies the wind was full on but thankfully with it behind us for most of the walk it was comfortable. For the many cyclists going round Arran anti-clockwise a very different experience. As I know all too well a headwind cycling is a real strength sapper.

Old graveyard but grass is cut

Midway we came across this graveyard which, from the few stones we could read the markings, was circa 200 years ago. A long time since anyone was buried here but at least someone was keeping it in condition.

A rare off road section

Great views across to Kintyre for the whole walk were its redeeming feature.
I considered the postie path from Catacol to get away from the road but this was vetoed so I will do it myself on another visit.

Postie path hill at Catacol

The driving force for the good lady was the delicious home baking at the Arran distillery but the last mile or so from the ferry was a real walk of endurance as the wind howled down the glen. 

Lochranza castle

Nice views of the castle as people hugged the southern sections to avoid that wind.
Still the cake was excellent and only a couple more sections for me to complete the ACW so job done.

Arran Coastal Way Brodick - Lamlash

I joined the KOIR for a walk on Arran covering part of the Arran Coastal Way from Brodick to Lamlash, this was a new stretch for me so despite the forecast I headed out.
The Calmac boat was rocking and rolling as we headed to Arran, was that roll and sausage a good idea, and the rain was lashing down when we disembarked. There is minimal cover on this walk so just had to accept it was going to be a wet one. Once again the good camera stayed at home so these snaps are phone only.

Full wet gear on for everyone

Turn left up the hill and take the first left towards Strathwhillan farm, following the way markers signs passing some nice houses then across a few very muddy fields, it was to get a lot worse. Then through some woods and onto a track beside the radar station before heading down to the shore at Corriegills point. Not just the sheep thought we were mad.

View from beach old fort on top of hill

The walk along the tight muddy and rocky track was one of extreme concentration. Although relatively flat the underfoot conditions were very tricky and there were quite a few slips and falls amongst the group but thankfully only injured pride and not bodies.

Driftwood seat

There is a seat made from driftwood situated at the rocks which could provide a nice resting point with a view, but not today. I am not sure how much weight it will take but well done anyway.

Narrow track

The sea is close on the left and hills on your right so you are hemmed in, the autumn colours of the bracken and yellow flowers on some broom bring colour to the day. However no time to enjoy the views as concentration means head down not up.

Should we be going up there?

As we moved round Claughlands point the Holy Isle comes into view but the muddy track gets even worse. The coos have trampled this area and recently going by the freshness of the cow pats. Don’t fall in this quagmire.
We are now on a farm track as we head towards Lamlash but the young coos are spotted, they number 20 plus and of course are standing at the gate blocking our path.

The coos

We have no option other than to try and scare them out of the way, one gets edgy as it thinks it is trapped, then the bellowing starts, interesting, tension rises but about half get over the fence safely and one braveheart chased the coos out of the way and the rest used the gate. Sadly we didn’t seem to adopt ‘ladies first’!!
Thankfully the rain has eased and after lunch we head back to Brodick overland, initially heading up past Claughlands farm then across green fields heading for a gate at 1 o clock. There are some route signs but not all are obvious so look carefully. The grass looked good for walking from a distance but oh no, this was another boggy mess, the coos had been in the past and left plenty of water traps from their hooves. After crossing a stile one of the group managed a full back slide in the mud, aahh.

The fields look ok but no.

Some of us make the short diversion to the trig point and site of an old fort where despite the weather there are good views which on a clear day would be superb, hence the reason for the fort.

View from old fort looking back along the coast where we had walked

After that simply follow the good track back to the main road, turn right and down the hill to the ferry. An interesting warning sign to watch out for a ‘deaf cat’ not seen one of them before.
As usual the banter and humour from the group made the day and I got another, albeit short section, of the Arran Coastal Way completed. The waterproofs did their job. Even time for a pint in the Douglas before the ferry.
Time: 4hr 04m
Distance: 7.38m (11.88km)
Ascent: 1554ft (474m)

Ayrshire Coastal Way Blackwaterfoot - Pirnmill A long road walk

Back to Arran for another leg of the coastal way. I was getting the earlier 8.20 ferry to give me extra time on the island. However, on arrival at Brodick this ferry is met by only one bus, which goes across the island to Blackwaterfoot. So my decision was made for me to walk north heading for Imacher or even Pirnmill to meet the bus to the ferry. Rant time. Why on a tourist island can they not run a circular bus hourly, there surely must be demand and it would ease traffic on these narrow island roads.

Blackwaterfoot

This is a long mainly tarmac road section. It does run parallel to the beach for much of the time but this coastal section is mainly rocks and pebbles with very little flat sand. By all means choose it but it will be very hard and slow going.
The crossing was late in sailing which meant there would not be time to get to the Co-op in Brodick for supplies. Another Calmac black pudding & fried egg roll to start the day, it’s a hard life. A very smooth crossing so out on deck with the binoculars. Spotted porpoises, gannets, guillemot, razorbill and shearwater. Plus the non nature bit, a submarine on the surface just off the south west coast of Arran.
Got onto the only bus with 6 others and it deposited me in Blackwaterfoot for 10.10. A very pretty small village with a hotel, not many of them on Arran. 

First beach section

The walk heading north crosses the attractive bridge and heads along the road where it quickly joins the beach at the very attractive Shiskine golf course. More people around than I expected, as it was all day, I think it is England’s half term school holiday. The sand is very soft, feet sinking well in, could be a long day but it only continued for a short spell. The official route cuts across the golf course but today I stayed on the coast without any problems and I would recommend this. 

Boulder field & basalt crags

After a mile there is short but tricky boulder crossing. There is a faint route to follow but take care particularly if wet and slippy. Once through this and past the basalt rock crags the path points upwards. Why, out with the map. Do not follow the zig zag as I believe that this takes you to the Kings Cave car park. For some reason this detour takes you a short distance up then follows a higher path but it is just as easy to stick to the coast. Good sea views across the Kilbrannan sound to Kintyre. I spot a pair of Goosander with 9 fluffy chicks trailing behind. Got me thinking that you see lots of fluffy chicks with their parents but you never see them ‘teenager’ size, what happens do they become adults overnight?

Kings Cave

A bit further on you spot a series of caves including the metal gate of the Kings Cave which is open for you to explore and look for ancient carvings, difficult to see them, at least for me, it is also rather chilly in here so not stopping for long. Funny incident, I could have sworn there were people approaching the cave on the noisy rocks. When outside nobody to be seen, odd.

Machrie & Beinn Bharrain

The route then climbs away from the coast and gives you great views of the moor and the way ahead. The mountains stand proud in the blue sky. The walk flanks the forest heading inland for about a mile until you reach a car park. This is annoying for a coastal walk. Presumably land issues stopping it following the coast. That is about 5 miles walked and most of the way forward is now tarmac. Turn left and head towards Machrie and look out for traffic it is a narrow twisty road.

Burial chamber

At Machrie moor I decide to break from the tarmac and walk into the burial chamber, adding about a mile to the route. I opt against the walk to the standing stones as doing it later in year with my good lady. If doing it add another mile and half to your trip.

Machrie golf course

Back on tarmac and the quaint Machrie golf course is reached along with a tea room should you wish to stop and refresh. The police helicopter is buzzing about the moor nearby along with coastguard rescue support, people spread out crossing a field with dogs, an exercise or for real? ( I found out next day it was for real, a missing local man).
The weather is glorious and I am glad I am walking north, the light is so much better and the views of the mountains along with the seascape, wonderful. The heat is well up and the sun lotion is applied, wish I had worn shorts. Plenty of cyclists doing the round island trip today along with many picnickers parked alongside the sea wherever they can.

Walk ends around left hand side of the mountains

A pair of seals are thrashing about close to shore, mating or playing? Both spot me, heads only visible then they continue their whatever. Delightful. Herons aplenty looking to spear lunch.
Across the bridge at Dougarie lodge, an impressive home and still follow the coastal road. Annoyingly I have got pain and the start of a blister, odd as these shoes and socks have never blistered before, I can only put it down to the tarmac walking. Even more annoyingly I have left my plasters and cream in my fishing bag. A change into lighter socks helps a bit but too far gone. I reckon on 4 miles still to go, decision time, sit and wait on the bus, not  due for 90 minutes or so or walk on. I don’t even pass any sheep to get some coat to use as medicinal padding which I have read about but not tried.

Peacock & pal

I carry on and the road turns uphill. There are no route signs that I could see pointing north along the shore and in retrospect I should have followed the coast from here for about 2 miles of tarmac relief. Instead, I went past what I presume are the Imacher cottages. A very loud piercing screech from the derelict courtyard is surprising and I soon spot a culprit, a peacock amazing, when I got out of bed this morning I never expected to see one of them today.

Leave road on right here

A bit further hobbling down the road I can see Pirnmill ahead. I also come across the children’s swing where you leave the road for the short coast section if you are walking from Pirnmill. 

Pirnmill

In the village there is a restaurant and shop but more importantly in 20 minutes the bus to the ferry. My foot is throbbing, thankfully not a full blown blister as got a Munro planned for the weekend.
Great coastline, superb views but a long tarmac walk.
Distance 13.96 miles (22.47km). Time 4.34. Ascent 1173 feet (347m).

Arran Coastal Way Lochranza loop via Fionn Bhealach

A quick return to Arran to complete the Sannox - Lochranza leg of the Arran Coastal Way.
The weather this week has been great, big blue skies with at times a chilly NE wind. Today is similar.

Postie's trail

I have an occasional walking pal with me today and our walk began at Lochranza distillery. Our timings were pretty tight to catch the bus from Lochranza for the 16.40 sailing back but if we do miss it at least there is another ferry albeit with a lot of hanging around.
We set off walking up the postie trail to Laggan. A very pleasant gradual climb. We soon hear and then spot a cuckoo closely followed by some red deer fairly low down, two of today’s targets for my pal. As we gained height I spotted something reflecting in the sun high on a hill, then there was movement on Torr Meadhonach. Binos out and it was at least 4 walkers who I reckoned we should be close to when we reached the top of this ridge pass at Bearradh Tom a’ Mhudie.

Views opening out Torr left and Fionn right

We were also catching up a solo walker who had been on our bus and then we spotted another group heading up to Fionn Bhealach. What is going on? It is like Sauchiehall street today.
We did catch both parties; the fit old guy was on a day trip from Glasgow and the group were kids plus teacher doing the Duke of Edinburgh assessment, compass and map reading skills, they got lucky with the weather, full lines of sight.

Pick a line and go straight up

We headed out into the tussocky grass, no path to follow, pick a line and go for it, mainly dry underfoot but many boggy patches of moss, high dry reeds, and areas of eroded ground to manoeuvre round. It quickly became too tough for my pals fitness so with his permission I left him to continue to enjoy the views and have his lunch, whilst I did a solo to the top.

Fionn Bhealach final ridge

I had budgeted for 40 minutes to Fionn Bhealach and back but in reality it took an hour, the terrain was rather poor for my speed walking. In a couple of months time when the ferns have grown and the ground possibly wetter it would be a proper challenge. The views were superb but I did not stop for many snaps as I wanted to get back before he thought I had got lost. Luckily he could see me for most of the way.

Looking north on descent

We met up again, my pal had enjoyed his relaxing lunch whilst I was eating on the hoof and we quickly headed down the track to Laggan cottage. Enjoying some great easterly views whilst descending.

The track does continue to Laggan cottage

We were pushing on now aiming for a point in the distance which I thought was the Cock of Arran, our immediate destination. Just like up on the hills it was a teaser, once we got there another point lay ahead. The path was now much harder going. We spot a small digger which is being used to improve the path away from boggy land. It only becomes apparent later as we debate how exactly did that digger get there?

New track

The question is asked as the next stretch across the An Scriordan boulders is a very challenging and seemed at the time a long arduos section. I can fully understand how some reviewers have been caught out by this, it slowed us down. Looking at the GPS data later the temperature was in the high 80’s for about 30 minutes of this sheltered leg dropping to mid 60’s when we finally turned the northern tip and hit the westerly wind.

The end of the boulder field

From the map I knew we had missed Ossian’s cave, I was looking for it but maybe just pushing too hard?
Time was definitely not on our side so I had to encourage my pal to up the pace, his non recent walking was catching him out fitness wise. We pass the cottage at Fairy Dell and stop briefly at Hutton’s Unconformity. Impressive pink coloured sandstone and granite with green seaweed to add colour.

As we turned the point at North Newton the westerly wind picked and so did our pace. We could see some housing in the distance but of course the bay was in-between us and the bus.

The final stretch should have been enjoyable but for us became an army yomping session, easier when you are young and fit but not so cool at our age.
It was low tide so we were able to cross the high tide area, feet had to get wet but needs must. We arrived at the bus stop with 3 minutes to spare, far too close for comfort. Of course the bus was 5 minutes late but there you go.
The 4.5 miles stretch from Laggan caught me out and again took longer than expected.
Nevertheless it was a good day out, with 10 miles covered in 4 hours of very mixed walking, ascent just under 1700 feet. Memo to self, next time catch the earlier ferry and give yourself more time for that reward of coffee and cake.