Sunday, 14 May 2017

Arran Coastal Way Lochranza loop via Fionn Bhealach

A quick return to Arran to complete the Sannox - Lochranza leg of the Arran Coastal Way.
The weather this week has been great, big blue skies with at times a chilly NE wind. Today is similar.

Postie's trail
I have an occasional walking pal with me today and our walk began at Lochranza distillery. Our timings were pretty tight to catch the bus from Lochranza for the 16.40 sailing back but if we do miss it at least there is another ferry albeit with a lot of hanging around.
We set off walking up the postie trail to Laggan. A very pleasant gradual climb. We soon hear and then spot a cuckoo closely followed by some red deer fairly low down, two of today’s targets for my pal. As we gained height I spotted something reflecting in the sun high on a hill, then there was movement on Torr Meadhonach. Binos out and it was at least 4 walkers who I reckoned we should be close to when we reached the top of this ridge pass at Bearradh Tom a’ Mhudie.

Views opening out Torr left and Fionn right
We were also catching up a solo walker who had been on our bus and then we spotted another group heading up to Fionn Bhealach. What is going on? It is like Sauchiehall street today.
We did catch both parties; the fit old guy was on a day trip from Glasgow and the group were kids plus teacher doing the Duke of Edinburgh assessment, compass and map reading skills, they got lucky with the weather, full lines of sight.

Pick a line and go straight up
We headed out into the tussocky grass, no path to follow, pick a line and go for it, mainly dry underfoot but many boggy patches of moss, high dry reeds, and areas of eroded ground to manoeuvre round. It quickly became too tough for my pals fitness so with his permission I left him to continue to enjoy the views and have his lunch, whilst I did a solo to the top.
Fionn Bhealach final ridge
I had budgeted for 40 minutes to Fionn Bhealach and back but in reality it took an hour, the terrain was rather poor for my speed walking. In a couple of months time when the ferns have grown and the ground possibly wetter it would be a proper challenge. The views were superb but I did not stop for many snaps as I wanted to get back before he thought I had got lost. Luckily he could see me for most of the way.
Looking north on descent
We met up again, my pal had enjoyed his relaxing lunch whilst I was eating on the hoof and we quickly headed down the track to Laggan cottage. Enjoying some great easterly views whilst descending.
The track does continue to Laggan cottage
We were pushing on now aiming for a point in the distance which I thought was the Cock of Arran, our immediate destination. Just like up on the hills it was a teaser, once we got there another point lay ahead. The path was now much harder going. We spot a small digger which is being used to improve the path away from boggy land. It only becomes apparent later as we debate how exactly did that digger get there?
New track
The question is asked as the next stretch across the An Scriordan boulders is a very challenging and seemed at the time a long arduos section. I can fully understand how some reviewers have been caught out by this, it slowed us down. Looking at the GPS data later the temperature was in the high 80’s for about 30 minutes of this sheltered leg dropping to mid 60’s when we finally turned the northern tip and hit the westerly wind.
The end of the boulder field
From the map I knew we had missed Ossian’s cave, I was looking for it but maybe just pushing too hard?
Time was definitely not on our side so I had to encourage my pal to up the pace, his non recent walking was catching him out fitness wise. We pass the cottage at Fairy Dell and stop briefly at Hutton’s Unconformity. Impressive pink coloured sandstone and granite with green seaweed to add colour.


As we turned the point at North Newton the westerly wind picked and so did our pace. We could see some housing in the distance but of course the bay was in-between us and the bus.


The final stretch should have been enjoyable but for us became an army yomping session, easier when you are young and fit but not so cool at our age.
It was low tide so we were able to cross the high tide area, feet had to get wet but needs must. We arrived at the bus stop with 3 minutes to spare, far too close for comfort. Of course the bus was 5 minutes late but there you go.
The 4.5 miles stretch from Laggan caught me out and again took longer than expected.
Nevertheless it was a good day out, with 10 miles covered in 4 hours of very mixed walking, ascent just under 1700 feet. Memo to self, next time catch the earlier ferry and give yourself more time for that reward of coffee and cake.









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