Saturday 20 May 2017

Ben Hiant Ardnamurchan

View of Ben Hiant from Kilchoan ferry
On our way to Ardnamurchan lighthouse last year we stopped at the viewpoint overlooking the beautiful white sandy beach, Camus nan Geall. Beautiful as it was, it was the golden eagle gliding across the slopes of the hill opposite that attracted me more and I knew I had to get to that top.
There was no time to climb it last year but a return trip to Ardnamurchan made it a goer. By coincidence we were staying on Mull first and the view from our lodge decking was of an impressive hill across the water, maps checked, guess what, fate sealed it was Ben Hiant (Holy hill).
Another coincidence is that it is also in the book ‘The Hughs’ of which I am using to discover different hills. A good and energetic walk is described by Andrew Dempster from sea level. But as the good lady was with me we were going via the tourist route as described in Walkhighlands starting from the high point on the B8007.

That is a cairn?
The start at the tiny cairn is a laugh as this is the cairn, I think it has had some storm or people damage. Two other couples we spoke to had not even identified it and started well down the road. However once spotted the trail is evident, if on the right path it is a clear follow all the way up.
First plateau
An immediate stiff pull up the hillside gets the breathing going and Mrs already doubting the wisdom of her decision. As we reach the first top section I say ‘look those people are on the summit‘, she knows better but it encourages her. Just stop and look around, great views to be had early on and particularly when Loch Sunart opens up.
Middle climb
It is not too difficult a walk, just a steady constant upwards ramble as the path kindly twists and turns around the steeper sections. The only danger were the very strong gusts of wind which were capable of unbalancing you.
Final section and summit
As we look down into the glen below, which is between us and Beinn na-h Urchrach, we spot about 20 plus red deer grazing. Then, as the herd moves more and more deer appear, mainly hinds and calves but the odd stag is spotted, and we count 50 plus at one point, a great sight.
At this point the views of the final section looked a bit daunting to Mrs B but the track remains good. One short scrambling section and then the track winds it way around the back of the hill and before you know it the trig is in sight.

Well worn section
During the final section the views are once again outstanding despite the low cloud and poor long visibility. Looking back down Loch Sunart, Resipole the highest close hill, looking across to Mull with Ben More shrouded in cloud as usual, through the binos I can even see the lodge we stayed in near Tobermory.

Over now looking to Kilchoan and the Calmac ferry from Tobermory is arriving, plus the Ardnamurchan white needle of the lighthouse can just be seen. The islands to the west are also just in view but on a clear day it would be even more spectacular, probably seeing as far as the Uists. Then a couple and dog surprisingly arrive at the trig from a different direction from our route and tell us they have followed the Hughs route. They also say it is the coldest day of their walking holiday and are not hanging about, we concur.
A gentle descent taking in as much of the view as you can, it is well worth it and no need to rush particularly for her knees, she has done well and enjoyed it. You can just see the people ahead of us as small dots to the right. The white strip of beach just visible.
Looking back at the trail and descent
Apart from the red deer and a raven that was it, no eagles to be seen again.
Ben Hiant is a Marilyn at 528 metres. From our starting point it was 1127ft or 344 metres of ascent. Distance walked was 3.01 miles and took us 1 hour 10 to the summit.

Loch Sunart and Morvern

Kilchoan
Another cracking hill with plenty of views to remember. Then it was off to the Natural history centre at Glenmore for coffee and cake, superb. Worth a visit for the unusual local crafted gifts, a lot of money can be spent, be warned!!

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