A wilderness wander on Arran....Three glen walk Lochranza to Catacol

Walk: Three Glens….Lochranza - Catacol
Category: Long Distance Walk.
Today was another unbelievable February day, so mild that it felt like late spring so not an opportunity to be missed. A visit to Arran was the plan.
I have had this little cracker on my list for a while so this trip was overdue.
In this day and age it is quite something that a stunning walk like this can be so remote, so isolated, a wilderness yet so near civilisation and I was so glad.
It was a solo trip so apart from the many red deer that I encountered it was magical peaceful therapy, no humans met on the walk.
I had this three glen walk as a possible option for some of the groups I walk with, no solitude then.

Start

I began my walk from the Lochranza distillery and walked into Gleann Easan Biorach. Immediately you have moved from a busy road and small village into a smashing remote situation, hemmed in on the left by the flanks of Tor Nead an Eoin, the burn cascading noisily and a tight track, what not to like.

There are at least half a dozen small waterfalls to enjoy either from the main burn or as the incomers meet.

Looking back Tom Nead an Eoin on right

There is a track of sorts all the way up to Loch na Davie, 3 miles away. When I say track it was an even mixture of good track, ankle deep bogs and the rest boulder fields. Big squelches as the boots were pulled out of the sucking mud. So rough walking to say the least. 

There was a misty sun haze ahead so the better views were looking back. 
The track rises gradually and about half way up I spotted 5 hinds across the burn who walked at the same pace as me all the way up to the loch. They were aware of me but not spooked, quite delightful company.

The water of life for Arran whisky

Loch na Davie was reached, this small water is the source used for Arran malt whisky down below in Lochranza, reminder I need to buy a bottle.
The terrain had slowed my normal pace for a walk like this, I was averaging just 2 miles an hour, meeting the island bus pick up for the ferry could be tight.

Iorsa Water

The trail goes round the sub2k of Beinn Bhreac at its southerly tip the meandering Iorsa water could be seen glistening as it flowed down to the sea. 

The bigger hills like Cir Mhor & Tarsuinn are shadows in the mist, just can be seen and no more, atmospheric.

Descent Meall nan Damh on left

The walk now descends into Gleann Diomhan, the terrain is not much better.
Great views of the hills ahead, the highest being Meall nan Damh, looks pretty steep from this side. 

The boys

I stop to take a drink and spot another herd of deer so close. I was so concentrated on looking down I had not seen them, again they were wary but not scared.

Gate to nature reserve, where is that tree?

Some of the glen is a nature reserve and I discovered later it is home to one of the UK‘s rarest tree, the Scottish or Arran white beam, there you go I will need to pay closer attention next time.
Where this now joins the third glen, Gleann Catacol, I am scanning the tops to my right, Creag na h-Iolaire but despite its name no Golden eagles are seen today.

Fox Moth caterpillar

Now on relatively flat terrain with the end in sight I am astonished to see a butterfly  flutter across and land on the dry grass. I had to go and inspect. Off it flew, too quickly but it looked dark brown and marked? I also found this caterpillar, from research it appears to be a Fox Moth but that was not the butterfly I spotted.

Glen Catacol

The walk out, almost to the road remains a stunning landscape. As stated nobody else on this trail today. In fact you would probably be unlucky to meet someone. So an excellent, if rough, remote landscape to indulge in your own thoughts uninterrupted, very satisfying this one.
And I walked the whole way without a jacket, it is still February? 
Made the bus by 10 minutes so ferry as planned.

Wildlife: Red Deer, Raven, Jackdaw, Meadow Pipit, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Butterfly?
Time: 3.45
Ascent: 443m
Distance: 11.8km

More solitude and isolation, Arran this time.

Hill: Beinn Bhreac Arran

Start at Lochranza

Category: Sub 2k
Height: 575m
I decided to tick off one of my outstanding Arran hills. After the bedlam of the ferry and the bus it was nice to start my walk just outside Arran distillery in Lochranza. I didn’t expect to see anyone on this walk today and I wasn’t far wrong.
The route I chose looked straightforward, a 3 mile walk through the tranquil and isolated Gleann Easan Biorach to Loch na Davie, then pick a spot to my right and go uphill to the summit. More on that later.
The bus was late arriving in Lochranza so my tight trip was even tighter to get my bus back.
The route through the glen has a burn all the way on your left so no excuses for getting lost here. To begin cut in at the bridge, there is a sign and now there is a straightforward but steep track which leads to a deep gorge which can be bypassed before it opens out into the moorland.

Past the gorge heading out onto the moor

For the first mile the track is obvious and in good condition but deteriorates after about a mile when you reach the waterfall.

Lots of small waterfalls

Now the rising track comes and goes, it is very stony and boggy, lots of boulder hopping and wet boots, gaiters on. The rains of the last fortnight have made this very wet, did we have a dry summer?

Marker stones, this snap is looking back taken on the descent

I reach a small stone cairn, indicating a turn off? From the map this would take you between Beinn Bhiorach and Bhreac. In retrospect I would have taken this and made the ascent an easier gradient.
After the 3 miles I reach the lochan which despite its small size is important. Its run back to Lochranza feeds the distillery and its fine malts. At the other side it descends into Glen Iorsa and its waters.

Loch na Davie down below, Caisteal Abhail behind

I have climbed to 360 metres with just under 200 metres of direct ascent. The first section was okay but the final 100 is rough and rugged heather moorland with plenty of holes hidden underfoot.

Castail, Cir Mhor & Tarsuinn in shot

I was glad to reach the plateau and headed towards the cairn just as a stag and 5 hinds spotted me and ran off. It looks slightly higher further across but not according to GPS but there are good views down Glen Iorsa.

Glen Iorsa

Despite the low grey clouds there are still great views from the top. Arran’s Corbett’s showing their moody best. Looking west Beinn Tarsuinn looks dark and foreboding. Towards Catacol, Meall nan Damh, another sub2k to be climbed soon.
Time is not on my side so off I went descending further along the ridge before cutting down to the track, slow but sure as still lots of holes. I disturbed another group of hinds, certainly plenty of fresh poo around, there are lots of deer here.
Walking down the track I spot a Merlin flying low over the heather, stopping on a boulder and I get a grainy long distance snap confirming it. Maybe looking for one of these?

Meadow Pipit

Also a golden eagle appears above, getting lucky today but again the advantage of solo walking.
About half way down I meet a family with a young kid, tourists it turns out. I am asked if they are near the village, what village? Map out they were heading to Catacol and were dismayed when I showed them how far away they were from it, the rough terrain already getting to them and the kid not equipped. Thankfully they heeded my advice and followed me back to Lochranza.

Scotch Argus

On the descent I was also lucky enough to spot this Scotch Argus butterfly near the gorge, getting better identifying these now.

Lochranza in sight

Back at the bus stop with 10 minutes to spare but no time to browse for a bottle of malt, there will be another day. 
An excellent short walk, I am getting used to this isolation and solitude walking lark. The constant backdrop of running water helps the mind.

Wildlife: Red deer, Golden Eagle, Buzzard, Meadow Pipit, Merlin, Scotch Argus.

Time: 3.39
Ascent: 579m
Distance: 10.9k

Arran Coastal Way Pirnmill - Lochranza

Rest day of my short break on Arran. The good lady was joining me today so a short section of the Arran Coastal Way was in order.
We got the very busy bus from Brodick to Pirnmill to walk the section back to Lochranza. At Pirnmill a very interesting church not many like this around, a small corrugated iron building and sheep grazing.

Pirnmill Kirk

The down side of this walk was that most of it became road walking rather than coast walking. Sadly too much of the ACW is like this.

Typical boulder strewn coast

The tide was in but even if it was out very few sections are accessible. Those sections that are off road were boulder fields and unless you are a masochist there is no pleasure in walking on this surface. The good lady is not out for a walk to endure so more road sections for us.

One of the swan nests

One group not bothered with the terrain were swans as we went by at least four occupied nests some very close to the road.
Although we had blue skies the wind was full on but thankfully with it behind us for most of the walk it was comfortable. For the many cyclists going round Arran anti-clockwise a very different experience. As I know all too well a headwind cycling is a real strength sapper.

Old graveyard but grass is cut

Midway we came across this graveyard which, from the few stones we could read the markings, was circa 200 years ago. A long time since anyone was buried here but at least someone was keeping it in condition.

A rare off road section

Great views across to Kintyre for the whole walk were its redeeming feature.
I considered the postie path from Catacol to get away from the road but this was vetoed so I will do it myself on another visit.

Postie path hill at Catacol

The driving force for the good lady was the delicious home baking at the Arran distillery but the last mile or so from the ferry was a real walk of endurance as the wind howled down the glen. 

Lochranza castle

Nice views of the castle as people hugged the southern sections to avoid that wind.
Still the cake was excellent and only a couple more sections for me to complete the ACW so job done.

Arran Coastal Way Lochranza loop via Fionn Bhealach

A quick return to Arran to complete the Sannox - Lochranza leg of the Arran Coastal Way.
The weather this week has been great, big blue skies with at times a chilly NE wind. Today is similar.

Postie's trail

I have an occasional walking pal with me today and our walk began at Lochranza distillery. Our timings were pretty tight to catch the bus from Lochranza for the 16.40 sailing back but if we do miss it at least there is another ferry albeit with a lot of hanging around.
We set off walking up the postie trail to Laggan. A very pleasant gradual climb. We soon hear and then spot a cuckoo closely followed by some red deer fairly low down, two of today’s targets for my pal. As we gained height I spotted something reflecting in the sun high on a hill, then there was movement on Torr Meadhonach. Binos out and it was at least 4 walkers who I reckoned we should be close to when we reached the top of this ridge pass at Bearradh Tom a’ Mhudie.

Views opening out Torr left and Fionn right

We were also catching up a solo walker who had been on our bus and then we spotted another group heading up to Fionn Bhealach. What is going on? It is like Sauchiehall street today.
We did catch both parties; the fit old guy was on a day trip from Glasgow and the group were kids plus teacher doing the Duke of Edinburgh assessment, compass and map reading skills, they got lucky with the weather, full lines of sight.

Pick a line and go straight up

We headed out into the tussocky grass, no path to follow, pick a line and go for it, mainly dry underfoot but many boggy patches of moss, high dry reeds, and areas of eroded ground to manoeuvre round. It quickly became too tough for my pals fitness so with his permission I left him to continue to enjoy the views and have his lunch, whilst I did a solo to the top.

Fionn Bhealach final ridge

I had budgeted for 40 minutes to Fionn Bhealach and back but in reality it took an hour, the terrain was rather poor for my speed walking. In a couple of months time when the ferns have grown and the ground possibly wetter it would be a proper challenge. The views were superb but I did not stop for many snaps as I wanted to get back before he thought I had got lost. Luckily he could see me for most of the way.

Looking north on descent

We met up again, my pal had enjoyed his relaxing lunch whilst I was eating on the hoof and we quickly headed down the track to Laggan cottage. Enjoying some great easterly views whilst descending.

The track does continue to Laggan cottage

We were pushing on now aiming for a point in the distance which I thought was the Cock of Arran, our immediate destination. Just like up on the hills it was a teaser, once we got there another point lay ahead. The path was now much harder going. We spot a small digger which is being used to improve the path away from boggy land. It only becomes apparent later as we debate how exactly did that digger get there?

New track

The question is asked as the next stretch across the An Scriordan boulders is a very challenging and seemed at the time a long arduos section. I can fully understand how some reviewers have been caught out by this, it slowed us down. Looking at the GPS data later the temperature was in the high 80’s for about 30 minutes of this sheltered leg dropping to mid 60’s when we finally turned the northern tip and hit the westerly wind.

The end of the boulder field

From the map I knew we had missed Ossian’s cave, I was looking for it but maybe just pushing too hard?
Time was definitely not on our side so I had to encourage my pal to up the pace, his non recent walking was catching him out fitness wise. We pass the cottage at Fairy Dell and stop briefly at Hutton’s Unconformity. Impressive pink coloured sandstone and granite with green seaweed to add colour.

As we turned the point at North Newton the westerly wind picked and so did our pace. We could see some housing in the distance but of course the bay was in-between us and the bus.

The final stretch should have been enjoyable but for us became an army yomping session, easier when you are young and fit but not so cool at our age.
It was low tide so we were able to cross the high tide area, feet had to get wet but needs must. We arrived at the bus stop with 3 minutes to spare, far too close for comfort. Of course the bus was 5 minutes late but there you go.
The 4.5 miles stretch from Laggan caught me out and again took longer than expected.
Nevertheless it was a good day out, with 10 miles covered in 4 hours of very mixed walking, ascent just under 1700 feet. Memo to self, next time catch the earlier ferry and give yourself more time for that reward of coffee and cake.

Arran Coastal Way Sannox - Lochranza the high road

After Wednesdays leg from Brodick to Sannox I made a quick return to Arran to continue the ACW walk from Sannox to Lochranza. I had two choices today, weather permitting I was going to go up from Laggan cottage, do the sub 2000 Fionn Bhealach and drop down to Lochranza from there. Failing that I will just do the full coastal stretch. Matching the bus timetable is a further consideration.

Sannox stepping stones

I would have preferred the 8.20 sailing but for some reason it only sails Mon-Thurs so on the later 9.40 which brings some time pressure.  A nice smooth crossing once more and again an expensive Calmac breakfast roll and coffee and caught the bus to Sannox. Forecast mixed cloud, sun with showers.
Picking up where I left off in South Sannox I crossed into the woods just opposite the Glen Sannox walk. Wrong entrance, a burn in the way. Next turn was correct with large  stepping stones, that’s better. On Wednesday I was bitten without seeing the beasties today it was both immediately, amazing at this time of year. I followed the trail round the bay and through some woods then reached another burn. There were stepping stones but looked slippy and I did not want wet feet this early so I followed the track back towards the road and then crossed a wooden bridge to head back down the other side.
I could hear a lot of barking and wondered what I was heading to. At the parking area a small travellers encampment had been set up. I counted 8 dogs, a mixture of whippets and pit bull types all going crazy but thankfully they were all chained up, they looked an evil lot. Not a person to be seen.

Sannox woods

Through a large fence and onto a hard packed road which is followed for a few miles. Good sea views to distract from the other side. The navy navigation beacon is an obvious marker and the trail becomes a normal track with the fallen rocks the next marker.

The vista has opened out with big hills on the left and grand views over the Cumbraes and Argyll. It now feels properly remote, the only noise accompaniment is the calling of the birdlife. Thankfully enough of them to keep interested. Wheatear, rock pipit, common gulls, eider and mallards. Then, I hear my first cuckoo of the year and from now on until reaching Lochranza it was constant calling. Amazing, not one heard on Wednesday but it now sounds like the entire UK population is here.

View north near fallen rocks

There are frequent light showers on and off but the tops are just clear. As I negotiate around the fallen rocks I spot movement ahead, 2 walkers going in the same direction. The only people I have seen on the walk so far.

2nd beacon and way uphill?

I almost miss the other mile navigation beacon as it is inland whereas the 1st beacon was right on the coast. Looking at the background it looks like possibly an easier way up to the top, looks more straight forward on that grassy slope from here than my map suggests.

Heading towards the Millstone point just soak in the remoteness, the isolation and the scenery. I am now in line with the summit of Fionn Bhealach but of course from this level it cannot be seen. The Coire is impressive. However on a lower peak just ahead red deer hinds silhouettes on the skyline, the first of many that I will see today.

Laggan cottage

I catch up with the walkers who are having their lunch and sheltering at the cave, a pity as I wanted to look in this but did not want to disturb them. A quick chat, they were sticking to coastal route, then I was heading towards Laggan cottage, the white building standing out in the distance. Track is boggy in patches but generally good.
A pair of Northern divers are close by and a very large seals head appears, what a brute, only yards out, with what looks like a squid in its mouth.

Looking back towards Laggan cottage

At the abandoned Laggan cottage decision time and its uphill. There is meant to be an obvious path but for a few minutes I just climb and then I spot a faint trail which seems to follow my maps trail so up I go. Relatively straight but as no obvious route keep checking the map. I reach a point about half way up where looking down on the abandoned Cock farm I can see a herd of deer grazing amid the ruins. Apparently over 100 people lived around here at one time, it would have been a harsh life.
I also see 4 walkers heading south on the coast, there is life. The path is now clearly defined, rocky but good walking. The views across the water impress so take the time to enjoy them.

Creag Ghlas Laggan

On the top the obvious track ( I think this known as the Postman’s track) continues towards Lochranza but the route to Fionn Bhealach is evidently a case of following the ridge, Creag Ghlas Laggan. The weather has changed quickly, clouds drop down, smirry rain and visibility reduced as well, it is bleak up here.  2 stags are close by staring, do the see me as a threat? Wherever you look there are pockets of red deer. I decide to leave Fionn for another day. The clouds have blown away but it is a chill wind.

The views over the northern Arran peaks are what this is all about. I might not be high but this is spectacular.

Walking down the track the distillery comes into view and looks so picturesque nestled below the hills. Groups of red deer are still all around. Obviously no cuckoos up top but as I get down to the village one calls in the trees beside the farm, cheerio, cheerio, it sings.

Distillery

Final descent gives a good view of the bay and castle.

The deer are so prominent that walking on the road that split’s the golf course this young stag was totally unconcerned about my presence, not just bunkers the hazard here.

30 minutes until the bus to into the distillery café for my hard earned coffee and cake. Plus I had to buy a bottle of port cask finished malt, the tourist pound gets spent. Remember, they say one tourist pound goes around 13 times. I will enjoy a tipple tonight.
Distance was 9.72 miles taking 3 hours 40min. Ascent just over 500 metres. I will have to complete the coast section later but I do recommend this.