Cracking little walk to the Bone caves

Walk: Bone Caves, Inchnadamph
Category: Trail
Height: circa 200m
Rest day so out with the good lady to take in this short walk that I noticed on a map. Glad we did it was a little cracker.
A beautiful day for a short but extremely scenic drive from Lairg along roads most tourists have yet to discover.

Start

Missed the turnoff, a very small camouflaged wooden pole it turned out, but found it on drive back.
A lovely warm spring day and it starts with a walk up the glen beside the fast rushing Allt nan Uamh.

Falls

 The waterfalls were in good flow considering the lack of rain but there was a better surprise for this burn later.
Just after the falls I spotted a stag on the near horizon on our right with a big hind, both turned and disappeared when they spotted us.

Metres above springs arid

A couple were dangling their feet in the water when it dawned on me that the water concourse above was totally dry, rocks and boulders. On closer inspection the water was bubbling out of the ground, small pockets of amazing springs which in a matter of metres was a fast flowing burn. Never seen that before, a natural wonder.

Metres below springs full burn

There is an easy track to follow that climbs gradually although probably more awkward for poor footwear in wet conditions.

Easy track in

I saw more Wheatear today than I have ever seen on a single outing, beautiful birds. We also had a short sighting of a similarly upright bird, slightly larger but beautiful blacks and greys. My immediate thought was a shrike, I know of no other like that, no binos but we both saw it. If so a gem of a sighting.
With the glare of the sun and the shadows we almost missed the cave entrances up on our right.

Caves

A continuation up the track then turns back on itself climbing along a narrow path to the cave entrances. It is steep and exposed, loose stones so take care. A raven had been flying close by it turned out its nest was just above one of the caves. It made close fly pasts but nothing threatening.

Looking towards Conival

These caves have bones from many of past animals including: arctic fox; lynx; reindeer; bear; wolves etc probably occupied by the hunter gathers. There are links between some of them but only for the brave. In one it looked like a small shaft of light far back but no exploring for us.
Standing on the ledge outside the caves you can appreciate the importance of the site as well as for us the views it gives. A stunning stony but bleak and barren landscape.

Looking back towards the start

Scanning our eyes across to Creag na h Iolaire, ever hopeful, but no eagles only the raven patrolling the ridge.
Either retrace your steps or follow the obvious path back down to the valley.

Colour in the grey

The dried up burn mentioned earlier provided colour with gorgeous yellow primroses breaking up the many shades of grey.

Newt

On the way back we stopped at a deep black pool which had pond skaters on top and newts below.
A cracking little walk and one that I would highly recommend.
Wildlife: Raven; Wheatear; Red Admiral & Peacock Butterfly; Newt; Red deer stag & hind, Meadow pipit, Grey shrike?

Time: 2 hours
Ascent: 200m
Distance: circa 3 miles.

Well blow me over Ben Stack

Hill: Ben Stack
Category: Graham
Height: 720m

Ben Stack looks more impressive further back

As I drove alongside Loch More towards the start of the walk this pointed mountain sat at the end of the loch and looked me in the eye. I knew Arkle was close by but as I got closer I realised that this was my pointy top and the weather forecast was for the wind to grow stronger, oh dear.
Parked up and it is true the hill lots a lot less dramatic from the parking area. 3 other cars heading for Arkle, it looks magnificent, have I got the poor man's choice?

Almost up to the knee lol

From the car park I went up towards the mast, turned in across dry peat until my 6th step, straight in, not a happy chappy, covered in peat mud, is there more of this to come?
As always for me lots of heavy breathing at the beginning as I laboured up the moorland hillside occasionally catching a bit of a track but mainly just looking up and heading for the rocky outcrop. Head down, small step by small step just get this bit over. Forty minutes to the outcrop not sure if that is good.

Loch More

Take a breather and look back down Loch More.
It was nice to get to the ground levelling off where I knew my second wind would kick in and all would be well. The ground was still wet and squelchy in places and lots of deep holes to catch the unwary.

Moorland tramp

Some low crags on the right guide you upwards and soon the top peaks out. Hills are starting to show themselves to the west.

Summit in sight

 The wind has picked up significantly so hood up as the bald bits getting cold.

Last climb snap flattens it out a steep one

Then over the top and the ascent to Ben Stack is clearly seen in all its glory.
A couple of faint paths have been noted, I opt to ascend via the left one and as it transpired came down the right.
The wind was now officially very strong but the last 50 metres or so were a real challenge. Hands were being used at times to just keep balanced, huge gusts threatening to lift me up, interesting as the drop on the right looked kind of death like, not that i am a big feartie.

Ariel?

Onto the top, a rocky ridge, which has a split, just as well as I went through the lower middle taking some shelter, rather than risk the exposed path. 

True top

The left as I ascended is the trig but I stupidly headed out, crawled in parts, past the ariel to the true summit, mad or what? All for a blue tag on Walkhighlands. 90 minutes from the start, I was pleased with that, expected 2 hours.

Arkle in foreground Fionaven behind

The views were hazy but stunning particularly northwards to the coast and beyond and across to Arkle & Foinaven. I would love to have spent more time but this was just not fun.
My initial descent off the top had me crouched as low as I could, leg stance like a Sumo fighter, and small stepped as the wind just battered in, wow!

Bealach

Thankfully I reached the bealach and the wind dropped to hurricane force and I felt relieved.
I met a young lad on his way up who seemed surprised about the wind up top, read the forecast young man.
Now an enjoyable trek back down the way I ascended taking in the views. And I avoided the peat traps.
Only problem was I had given the missus the car and I was an hour ahead of schedule from the WH estimate. No phone signals here to summon her. A long wait ahead, plenty of fruit and a bounty bar. And a river to clean the muck off my boots.
Glad to be back to normal fitness.

Wildlife: Raven & Meadow pipit.
Time: 2.39
Ascent: 2240ft (955m)
Distance: 4.93m (8.5k)

Back to normal on Ben Klibreck

Hill: Ben Klibreck (Hill of the cliff slope) summit Meall nan Con (Hill of the dogs)
Category: Munro
Height: 961m

Full view of the ridge and top of Meall nan Con

Scotland is predicted to be basking in glorious sunshine for Easter Sunday, when I pulled the curtains it was misty, am I surprised, no, what was I in for today?
Sutherland and in particular this local  is well known to anglers and shooters as well us hill walkers due to the Altnaharra Hotel’s game pursuit customers.
The location is prime land in a a terrible time in Scottish history, the clearances. Principally to put sheep on the land instead of people but difficult to say which one was in the majority today.  As the route description says, Ben Klibreck overlooks a desolate flat and watery landscape, but spectacular.
We parked at the traditional spot south of Vagastie Bridge. A fellow walker on Friday at Ben Hope had just climbed it that morning and said it was dry, light boots only. Really? The route description of very boggy path from the start was intact, wish I had put my gaiters on but trousers mucky now!! 

One of the cairns at the first plateau

We reached the first large cairn which had military memorabilia attached. No doubt a good cause but not attractive.
Clouds coming and going as we descended to the peat bog section, underfoot not too bad, before climbing the slopes of Creag an Lochain.

Joining the contour trail

We opted to take the contour path alongside the hill which gave us great views as we walked its lengthy traverse. I would imagine that if you slipped here in winter not much chance of stopping your rapid descent.

Contour trail across the flanks, don't slip

Lots of Ben’s here: Loyal; Hee and Hope all prominent. 

Estate fishing loch

Looking down on Loch? An upturned boat tells me it is a fishing loch from the hotel estate but no access tracks evident, an ATV transport required to fish these.

The top disappearing in the cloud

The sting in the tail has been reached, 200m of ascent, but today only glimpsed as heavy cloud cover set in, maybe just as well. On these scree/rocky slopes we were rewarded with 4 dotterel.
Thankfully my strength had recovered from Ben Hope and I was feeling almost back to my normal hill walking fitness, but not quite, the last 100 metres or so up this steep rocky section was tough. Head down step by small step, zig zagging up the indistinct path. Not helped by the very strong winds, easily 30-40mph, blowing in from the west. Still a good ascent time, 2 hours 20m to the top.

Broken trigs

Reached the cairn and the broken trig points, a sad mess, before hiding behind some rocks for food, a surprisingly sheltered spot and some good banter.
From the summit you look over Strathnaver one of the worst areas of the clearances but no views today for us.

What a rock

There is the most amazing large rock, twisted that can only have been in a lava flow, quite superb.

Views north

Refreshed we battled down the slippy stones without mishap and once below the clouds we could take in the magnificent extensive Sutherland landscape of mountains, lochs & flat lands, breathtaking and a privilege to be here taking it all in.

Views west

An enjoyable descent trying to identify the hills to our near north and west. The shape of An Teallach unmistakable on the western horizon. More north I am sure I am looking at Tuesday’s walk, Ben Stack, with Arkle alongside it.

Ptarmigan

At a point along the contour trail we came across a pair of Ptarmigan, beautiful birds and totally unphased by our presence, happily letting us take some snaps before disappearing.

Descending west

Of course looking back the summit of Meall nan Con was free of cloud, that’s hill walking for you. A few curses and back to the trek.
Back at the cars for bang out 5 hours, not shabby at all. Life feels better again.
Crask Inn again for cake and something refreshing.

Wildlife: Dotterel, Ptarmigan, Wheatear, Meadow Pipits, Greenshank,
Time: 5.01
Ascent: 3034ft (1175ft)
Distance: 9.33m (15.1km)

Ben Hope my struggles on the most northerly Munro

Hill: Ben Hope
Category: Munro
Height: 927m
The weather forecast was for unnatural heat for this time of the year in this far most spot in the north of Scotland.

So, it was with anticipation we made the magnificent drive from Lairg to the start of the walk, the Munro Ben Hope. As per the forecast it was a hazy outlook which meant that the hoped for views from the top of The Orkneys might not happen

That's it up there view from parking area

This was a steep little beggar from the start, the summit is still hidden from this snap of the beginning but the slopes to get there are not.

Decent track

Up the side of the burn following a good track there is a slight respite before heading upwards, very steeply, once more.

Views getting better

At least the views up Loch Hope are interesting but I knew early on my body was telling me something was not right. Not actually telling more like screaming, I did not feel good and have never felt like this on a hill before. I thought my sniffles were early hay fever signs but clearly more severe.

Views improving Loch Hope

Finally the gradient starts to ease but even the banana hit had not done a lot for my energy levels, this was becoming a real effort of mind over matter. The crags high above confirmed there was still some way to go.

Ridge

We reached the wide ridge and I wrongly assumed I would feel better on this easier gradient but reality was even worse. My breathing was laboured and my legs felt like jelly.
The plateau ends abruptly, with the extremely steep and airy north ridge plummeting beyond with great walls of crags on each flank.
It probably didn’t help that the pace was high, despite the other guys stopping a few times to allow me to catch breath. Still my inner determination kept me going and boy was I glad when I reached the summit. 

Busy top

Despite my efforts to hinder the top was now achieved in 1.59hr, very pleased indeed.
The shelter a super place for lunch, rest these knackered legs.

Ben Loyal in distance

The views were grand even if the Orkneys could not be seen. The nearest high points that can be seen are Ben Klibreck and Ben Loyal. The western hills jutted everywhere but the plains also have their own attractiveness. The haze was clearing but slowly, the causeway and the sandy beaches now prominent.

Looking north but no Orkney Islands 

Apart from a pair of ravens the wildlife was non existent which was disappointing. Where are the raptors, the eagles sea and golden a buzzard even? Where are the ouzels, buntings, dotterel etc? maybe due to the number of people regularly on this hill they go elsewhere. That's where walking on your own on smaller more remote hills comes into its own.

Stony descent

As we descended we were passing more ascenders. In Scotland it is joked that at the first burst of sun off come the tops regardless of temperature. Well a well sculptured bearded guy passed us topless, on top of a Munro, not that warm, tough guy obviously playing the stereotype card.

Cars down there somewhere

The descent was certainly more enjoyable particularly as the views were improving as the haze dissipated.

Cold refreshing Scottish water and free

As we descended the cascading Allt a'Mhuiseil provided an opportunity we were delighted to take to fill up on fresh Scottish water after this, for me, strenuous walk on a very warm day.
No doubt my inner system was not functioning correctly call it bio-rhythms or what but that was tough, but enjoyable.
The delightful old world Crask Inn for a cold one, well earned

Wildlife: Raven, meadow pipit,
Time: 4.07
Ascent: 2864ft (935m)
Distance: 4.8m (8.2k)

Meall Dola, grand views for a moorland runt

Hill: Meall Dola
Category: Sub2k
Height: 323m

There was no doubt that yesterdays struggle on Ben Hope was down to illness and not fitness. When I woke this morning I knew there was no chance of doing today’s double so sadly opted out. Aches and pains aplenty.
After a drive with the good lady in the afternoon I needed to test my fitness before tomorrow and the perfect opportunity lay just across the way. From the back garden of the holiday cottage we are looking across to the Sub2k of Meall Dola. A little runt but it will be pathless moorland, a reasonable test.
These hills were once the provider of peat for the community of Lairg.
I parked up on a grassy knoll just past the farm where the coos were feeding beside the road, at least not on the hill.

Head for the tree easy start

Up a short track then head for the trees where a pair of black grouse emerged, wow, twice in a fortnight. My first swallow of the season was doing its amazing high speed low level flying after it’s insects, a good start.

Typical pathless moor terrain

There are no paths but a few small knolls to cross so either follow the fenceline or just pick a line and go across moor. This is mainly what I did, a mixture of both, as the moor ground was surprisingly dry, only the occasional peat bog.

Looking back to the cottage

I looked over and saw the cottage as well as the long distance stuff. This area is full of small holdings and one has a small burning going. Tried phoning missus to see if she could spot my orange jacket but she had no signal.

Meall Dola ahead

When you get to the last knoll that can be seen from the cottage a turn inland is required and Dola is down and up but straight ahead.

Surprised deer

As I cross the last moor and descended into the hollow I disturbed a small herd of 9 red deer hinds. A look then off they ran.
Finally at the top there is at least a couple of stones to mark the spot. However for a wee runt the views of Sutherland from Meall Dola and further are extensive. A proper 360 degree panorama. 

View from top looking NW

Tomorrow’s objective of Ben Klibreck is clear with Ben Hope behind. Today’s miss of Conival and Ben More Assynt are cloud free, curses but happy for those on it. 

Clouds changing

The clouds nearby were changing structure, becoming more defined flying saucer clouds, lenticular clouds, normally a sign of rain or even snow. A weather front is approaching for tomorrow!
A plod back over the moors and I see buzzard, skylark, wheatear and meadow pipit, the benefits of solo walking.
As expected the coos are on the path with youngsters so a short detour makes sense.
Body certainly not as it should be but I will do the Munro tomorrow, kill or cure.

Wildlife: Red deer, Black grouse, Red grouse, Buzzard, Wheatear, Swallow, Meadow pipit, Skylark.
Time: 1.24
Ascent: 209m
Distance: 5k