A fantastic high level Glencoe ramble

Hill: Bidean nam Bian (Peak of the mountains) circuit including Stob Coire Sgreamhach (Peak of the horrible Corrie)
Category: Munro
Height: n/a

Route up between The Sisters heading for Stob Coire nan Lochan (middle)

It was with great anticipation that I started today’s walk into this impressive and somewhat daunting landscape. How many times have I parked in the Glencoe car park and looked at this scene and said ‘must do it‘?  Storar says that the big Buachaille is the scenic icon but Bidean is the supreme hillwalkers mountain.
Well today was the day. No Japanese tour buses taking photos of me departing!!

Follow the burn

Our small group left in sunshine and followed the excellent trail up into Coire nan Lochan, following the burn, heading for the great buttresses ahead. The feeling of immersion as the great cliffs narrow in. The burns crystal clear waters utilised to replenish the water supplies further up. Not always recommended doing this but done me no harm so far. Plenty of small waterfalls to admire.

Aonach Eagach ridge

Looking back fantastic views of the Aonach Eagach ridge, lower down I made out a solitary figure heading along, one day maybe.
First obstacle about half way up was a smooth rock descent, easy enough but the first of many hands on scrambles today, some more challenging than others.

Falls

As we reached the lochan under the buttresses a waterfall was in full flow, as was the weather. The sun lotions were forgotten as the rain arrived. Wet gear donned including gloves for me as it had turned decidedly nippy.
The good NTS track has now disappeared. We took a right (west) and after heading up some grassy slopes found the marker cairn.

Example of the rocky scramble

Now we were well into the cloud (we entered it circa 900m) we had a prolonged period of pathless rocky scrambling.

We came over from the left

At one point we were only about 10 yards left of where we should be and a huge drop appeared. Wow that was close. A short detour and we could view the drop, albeit in cloud, a timely reminder. On the other side a brief and welcome glimpse of Glencoe below.
We continued the circular rock scramble to arrive right at Stob Coire nan Lochan (Storar says it is the finest of Bideans peaks, need to take his word for that). After all that effort it should qualify as a Munro. From the reading I had done beforehand the extent of the prolonged rocky scrambling was a surprise to me.
Still not too far to the first one proper. The cloud protected us from the views of the ascent ahead, despite scrambling a looming mass could be seen up there through the greyness. Glad we circled around and up the last bit to reach the summit of Bidean nam Bian.

Cloud starting to lift

This is the highest point in Argyll and just as we reached the cairn, the clouds were occasionally parting to give us fleeting glimpses of the superb views. As we lunched it started to lift properly and we could enjoy the views we had worked hard to get. The ridge ahead now clear so we can see the route towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach .

Looking down to The Lost Valley

It was a leisurely stroll along the ridge taking in the views of the big drops down into Coire Gabhail and The Lost Valley beyond. Also out towards Etive, plenty of big hills.

Back to Bidean

Looking back we have a clear view to Bidean, quite superb. Quite a few walkers around, few came our route.

Stob Coire Sgreamhach ahead

Although the climb up to our second Munro looked quite steep from here we accomplished it in good time. 

Light and darkness Loch Etive

More views to enjoy but the clouds are lowering again, a clear high front over Etive and low pressure just above.
Now the dreaded descent off the bealach. The chute is fully eroded at the top section so no option other than to take the steps to the right before rejoining the chute. It was one to go very, very slowly, full concentration on each step. Lots of loose rocks and still very steep. Thankfully better stepping stones are reached and a path evolves.

Scree slopes descent to The Lost Valley

Whilst taking time to regroup the midges decide to assault us, no Donald Trump Iran reprieves here, and they were biting. The smell of insect repellent now strong in the air.
When we arrived at the flat area known as the 'Lost Valley' the tourist walkers from the car park were out in numbers. The valley was used to hide rustled cattle by the Macdonald's of Glencoe but god only knows how they got them up here in the first place. The section up from the River Coe and up the burn is a steep and rocky section in its own right.
A short stream crossing takes us into more bouldery terrain, easy to lose the path here. More short scrambling, found it again, and down the path to the final wet rocky section where a wire hand hold has been erected, helpful it was too.
Glad to be back at the car park, it had been a long walk out.
Stunning day with good company which helped the walk go by. One of the bucket list.

Wildlife: Raven, Meadow pipit.
Time: 7.55
Ascent: ft (m) 1422m
Distance: m (km) 13.8km

Five Westerly Fannichs but not without pain

Hill(s): Western Fannichs (5): A' Chailleach (997m), Sgurr Breac (999m), Sgurr nan Each (923m), Sgurr nan Clach Geala (1093m) and Meall a' Chrasgaidh (934m)
Category: Munro’s
Height: n/a
Today was a walk, that as a group of hills, not many will attempt and although successful it had its downside for me. Most people will tackle the first two and the last three as separate days but we went for the full walk, brave or stupid?
To be fair I knew beforehand that this was a beast of walk, the highest number of metres ascended in a day for me. The weather held good for the first two hills, began its deterioration mildly on hill 3 and was full on rain and wind for the last two.
A very small parking area just room for us before 9am.
From the start after the wooded walk we hit the moor where we initially gained good height. Although it looked steep and  intimidating a reasonable wet/boggy path takes you to the crest.

An Teallach and Loch a' Brahoin on the ascent

Now a very boggy plateau walk along Druim Reidh followed by a contour above Loch Toll an Lochain. 

A' Chailleach and Loch Toll an Lochain

This was a long section of boulder scree (this saps the legs) before reaching the bealach.
The worst of this route is that you have to climb A’ Chailleach and then come back down to the bealach. 

Looking back to ascent on right

However the views from the summit were superb across the peaks of Torridon, Fisherfield, Dearg and An Teallach amongst so much more.

View from A' Chailleach to Sgurr Breac (more Fannichs behind)

A great view of the route ahead (without the descent) as we upped and downed onto Sgurr Breac, Munro 2 done. 

The climb to Sgurr Breac

As we ascended a large herd of red deer were spotted in the distance, they were on its flanks, but not on our route.

The view from Sgurr Breac across to the bealach and yes a big drop first

We then began the long, very long descent down the flanks of Sgurr Breac with the ascent to the bealach for Sgurr nan Each right in our view, The upcoming ascent looking more intimidating with every step we descended. My GPS showed we descended circa 450m a lot.
Those only bagging the two Munro baggers can head back from here down a reasonable trail, I should have joined them.
After lunch we headed slowly up the pathless grassy slopes until reached the bealach, heavy plops of rain meant hoods up. I normally don’t eat before an ascent but I wanted to refuel and my breathing on this ascent paid the price of a full stomach.

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It was a relief to get to the bealach, turn right and follow the vague stony path up the winding ridge to Sgurr nan Each. This was where my problems started with agonising cramp in my left thigh/groin, wow what pain. I plodded on and the pain eased. More good views from the top but very bad weather now skirting us to the west.
Munro number 4, Sgurr nan Clach Geala, the highest summit of the day, looked more daunting from here than it really should.
Once again we had to backtrack to the bealach. As soon as the gradient kicked in so did my spasms/cramp, what was this I wondered as I have never had this before.

The gradient has eased to Sgurr nan Clach Geala

No option other to keep going, it was to be a long agonising trek back to the car.
Sgurr nan Clach Geala achieved and also the worst weather of the day kicked in. Heavy cold rain now on and off to the car. A nice ridge to descend, some steep drops but no snaps in the rain.

Meall a' Chrasgaidh ahead

The cramping was not kicking in on the descent but as soon as the slopes of number five began so did the pain. Cut a long story short the summit of Meall a’ Chrasgaidh was reached. The car could be seen but a long way away.
This long grassy descent was very awkward, not at all pleasant and went on for ages. As did the track when we finally reached it. An endurance event for me, not fun now.
Overall I now know why people break these five into two lots, it was strenuous and my leg did not help things.
The downside of these spasms was that when back home I could not cross my legs without going into severe cramping/spasm. Sadly missed out the ‘easier’ day of the other four Munros to complete the Fannichs. However, they will still be here for another day.
Sad to hear that a walker had died today after being hit by lightning on The Mamores in that bad weather.
Wildlife: Red deer, dotterel, ptarmigan, raven, meadow pipit, dipper.
Time: 9.30hrs
Ascent: 1872m
Distance: 24.6km

Back to normal on Ben Klibreck

Hill: Ben Klibreck (Hill of the cliff slope) summit Meall nan Con (Hill of the dogs)
Category: Munro
Height: 961m

Full view of the ridge and top of Meall nan Con

Scotland is predicted to be basking in glorious sunshine for Easter Sunday, when I pulled the curtains it was misty, am I surprised, no, what was I in for today?
Sutherland and in particular this local  is well known to anglers and shooters as well us hill walkers due to the Altnaharra Hotel’s game pursuit customers.
The location is prime land in a a terrible time in Scottish history, the clearances. Principally to put sheep on the land instead of people but difficult to say which one was in the majority today.  As the route description says, Ben Klibreck overlooks a desolate flat and watery landscape, but spectacular.
We parked at the traditional spot south of Vagastie Bridge. A fellow walker on Friday at Ben Hope had just climbed it that morning and said it was dry, light boots only. Really? The route description of very boggy path from the start was intact, wish I had put my gaiters on but trousers mucky now!! 

One of the cairns at the first plateau

We reached the first large cairn which had military memorabilia attached. No doubt a good cause but not attractive.
Clouds coming and going as we descended to the peat bog section, underfoot not too bad, before climbing the slopes of Creag an Lochain.

Joining the contour trail

We opted to take the contour path alongside the hill which gave us great views as we walked its lengthy traverse. I would imagine that if you slipped here in winter not much chance of stopping your rapid descent.

Contour trail across the flanks, don't slip

Lots of Ben’s here: Loyal; Hee and Hope all prominent. 

Estate fishing loch

Looking down on Loch? An upturned boat tells me it is a fishing loch from the hotel estate but no access tracks evident, an ATV transport required to fish these.

The top disappearing in the cloud

The sting in the tail has been reached, 200m of ascent, but today only glimpsed as heavy cloud cover set in, maybe just as well. On these scree/rocky slopes we were rewarded with 4 dotterel.
Thankfully my strength had recovered from Ben Hope and I was feeling almost back to my normal hill walking fitness, but not quite, the last 100 metres or so up this steep rocky section was tough. Head down step by small step, zig zagging up the indistinct path. Not helped by the very strong winds, easily 30-40mph, blowing in from the west. Still a good ascent time, 2 hours 20m to the top.

Broken trigs

Reached the cairn and the broken trig points, a sad mess, before hiding behind some rocks for food, a surprisingly sheltered spot and some good banter.
From the summit you look over Strathnaver one of the worst areas of the clearances but no views today for us.

What a rock

There is the most amazing large rock, twisted that can only have been in a lava flow, quite superb.

Views north

Refreshed we battled down the slippy stones without mishap and once below the clouds we could take in the magnificent extensive Sutherland landscape of mountains, lochs & flat lands, breathtaking and a privilege to be here taking it all in.

Views west

An enjoyable descent trying to identify the hills to our near north and west. The shape of An Teallach unmistakable on the western horizon. More north I am sure I am looking at Tuesday’s walk, Ben Stack, with Arkle alongside it.

Ptarmigan

At a point along the contour trail we came across a pair of Ptarmigan, beautiful birds and totally unphased by our presence, happily letting us take some snaps before disappearing.

Descending west

Of course looking back the summit of Meall nan Con was free of cloud, that’s hill walking for you. A few curses and back to the trek.
Back at the cars for bang out 5 hours, not shabby at all. Life feels better again.
Crask Inn again for cake and something refreshing.

Wildlife: Dotterel, Ptarmigan, Wheatear, Meadow Pipits, Greenshank,
Time: 5.01
Ascent: 3034ft (1175ft)
Distance: 9.33m (15.1km)

Ben Hope my struggles on the most northerly Munro

Hill: Ben Hope
Category: Munro
Height: 927m
The weather forecast was for unnatural heat for this time of the year in this far most spot in the north of Scotland.

So, it was with anticipation we made the magnificent drive from Lairg to the start of the walk, the Munro Ben Hope. As per the forecast it was a hazy outlook which meant that the hoped for views from the top of The Orkneys might not happen

That's it up there view from parking area

This was a steep little beggar from the start, the summit is still hidden from this snap of the beginning but the slopes to get there are not.

Decent track

Up the side of the burn following a good track there is a slight respite before heading upwards, very steeply, once more.

Views getting better

At least the views up Loch Hope are interesting but I knew early on my body was telling me something was not right. Not actually telling more like screaming, I did not feel good and have never felt like this on a hill before. I thought my sniffles were early hay fever signs but clearly more severe.

Views improving Loch Hope

Finally the gradient starts to ease but even the banana hit had not done a lot for my energy levels, this was becoming a real effort of mind over matter. The crags high above confirmed there was still some way to go.

Ridge

We reached the wide ridge and I wrongly assumed I would feel better on this easier gradient but reality was even worse. My breathing was laboured and my legs felt like jelly.
The plateau ends abruptly, with the extremely steep and airy north ridge plummeting beyond with great walls of crags on each flank.
It probably didn’t help that the pace was high, despite the other guys stopping a few times to allow me to catch breath. Still my inner determination kept me going and boy was I glad when I reached the summit. 

Busy top

Despite my efforts to hinder the top was now achieved in 1.59hr, very pleased indeed.
The shelter a super place for lunch, rest these knackered legs.

Ben Loyal in distance

The views were grand even if the Orkneys could not be seen. The nearest high points that can be seen are Ben Klibreck and Ben Loyal. The western hills jutted everywhere but the plains also have their own attractiveness. The haze was clearing but slowly, the causeway and the sandy beaches now prominent.

Looking north but no Orkney Islands 

Apart from a pair of ravens the wildlife was non existent which was disappointing. Where are the raptors, the eagles sea and golden a buzzard even? Where are the ouzels, buntings, dotterel etc? maybe due to the number of people regularly on this hill they go elsewhere. That's where walking on your own on smaller more remote hills comes into its own.

Stony descent

As we descended we were passing more ascenders. In Scotland it is joked that at the first burst of sun off come the tops regardless of temperature. Well a well sculptured bearded guy passed us topless, on top of a Munro, not that warm, tough guy obviously playing the stereotype card.

Cars down there somewhere

The descent was certainly more enjoyable particularly as the views were improving as the haze dissipated.

Cold refreshing Scottish water and free

As we descended the cascading Allt a'Mhuiseil provided an opportunity we were delighted to take to fill up on fresh Scottish water after this, for me, strenuous walk on a very warm day.
No doubt my inner system was not functioning correctly call it bio-rhythms or what but that was tough, but enjoyable.
The delightful old world Crask Inn for a cold one, well earned

Wildlife: Raven, meadow pipit,
Time: 4.07
Ascent: 2864ft (935m)
Distance: 4.8m (8.2k)