Uamh Bheag circuit the day has finally arrived

Hill: Uamh Bheag (Little cave) (664) Beinn Nan Eun (Mountain of the birds) (631m)

Type: Graham/Donald 

Last week I completed the two Donalds in Glentrool that I had been putting off mainly due to lacking the motivation to tackle the terrain. On my way north this week I changed my plans and I decided to go for the most northerly two Donalds which had an even more fearsome terrain reputation. Although almost as far north as Callander these hills are technically Lowland hills so count as Donalds.

We are still in a low weather front so the forecast was for sunshine and showers, potentially heavy rain.

The early morning drive through Glasgow suggested lockdown is well and truly over with traffic jams on major roads.  But the drive along the single track road into Glen Artney was beautiful. I did hit a traffic jam, two farmers having a jaw but they moved and let me through. 

Glen Artney Kirk

Parked up at the Glen Artney church and got changed to the sound of a cuckoo calling, I did spot it as it flew between trees but sadly no snap. 

No parking here, the start after road section

An anti-clockwise round and as I walked the minor road to the cut off a golden eagle flew low heading for Beinn Dearg. A superb start. A rough riverside walk then a decision how to get across the fast flowing deep burn. 

Plenty of running water here

I climbed up the flank and found a spectacular waterfall but still no crossing point. 

Bridge with Am Beannan ahead

I continued higher up and came across an estate bridge, great, saved me a potential soaking.

Ahead is the most attractive hill of the walk, Am Beannan, it is a cracking pointed hill. But it goes up sharply and you know it is going to be pain. A hill that starts steep and gets steeper but good terrain. 

Looking down the glen with Stuc & Vorlich in the background

Surprised and delighted at how good I am feeling compared to just over a week ago, hard graft but making good time. Only issue the sun cream was running into my eyes, very painful, constant wiping. 

Looking other way back to the start

Took a few rest pauses to look down into the remote glen and back over to Ben Vorlich and Stuc a Chroin. When you go to the end of the ridge on Vorlich where I am is what you are looking at.

First of the peat hags with Uamh the point in middle

Reached the top in 1hr 15m good going. Now the renowned peat hags start to show themselves. If I thought these looked hard work the real hags come later. As it was a faint path can be followed. When the undergrowth etc starts growing this will become difficult to find and would be very awkward in a clag.

Speaking of which black clouds were moving in quickly from the west so no more sun cream, wet gear on and for the next half an hour the rain came down hard and soft. I spotted a few red deer running, if they had not moved there was no chance of seeing them.

Reached a fence which can now be followed to the Donald top of Meall Clachach.

Follow the fence from Meall Clachach

Then following the same fence a descent and short ascent brings me to the top of Uamh Bheag, a junction of fences. 

Uamh Bheag trig

The rain was heavy so I wandered around the east top briefly, then back to the fence, getting pedantic but I am more than happy that I have bagged this Graham/Donald. 

I spotted a walker who I thought was coming my way. But he veared off on the hags. I was not sure if he simply did not want to speak to me but he seemed to disappear on a vague track towards Callander, odd. 

1st view of the deep hags and Beinn nan Eun

Close up. An option to go to the right but steep

From this east top area I followed the fence heading towards the turbines. 

This was the beginning of the end of the good walking for some time and this outing was going to live up to its reputation.

Hurdling red deer

Suddenly movement and a small herd of red deer, stags and hinds had obviously seen me and were running to the fence, then gracefully leapt over. Might have been the earlier herd.

The hags have become deep trenches

At the bottom of the ascent the hags have become trenches, Deep and boggy. I stand and reflect that this is what WW1 tranches must have felt like. At least they were dryish god knows how bad it would be if they were and extremely soft and slippy.

Over the trench I still followed the fence until I take the decision to leave the fence and head north/left to head for the Donald top of Beinn Odhar. Here the hags really live up to their reputation. It was really rubbish terrain. The hags were deep and unrelenting. It was constant zig zagging, sometimes back tracking, to try to make progress. It was hard work and my walk happiness was diminishing rapidly. Then the ground improved but haha a further unseen section appeared and more torturous going to finally get to the top.

View to Eun from Odhar

Helpful grassy patches

Looking over to the next Donald there are more hags but luckily I can see grassy passages inter linking so a bit like being in a maze, wander around and try to follow one, when it ends stand on the hag top and try to spot another one. 

Another underwhelming Donald summit marker

The prize a Donald bagged and a small marker, typical of Donalds. 

I retrospect if Donald tops not to be bagged it might be easier to follow the fence for longer and go direct to Eun, I was lucky I had visibility and relatively dry conditions underfoot. It only takes a little imagination about how much more difficult and dangerous these hag areas could be in wet conditions and poor visibility.

Panorama from Beinn nan Eun

Spectacular panoramic views from up here and all that remained was a very long grassy descent heading back towards a bridge over the burn at the sheep pens. The SMC book mention grouse butts but I never saw them, not a problem today.

Definitely a walk of two halves. I enjoyed the walk until the turbine farm, great views, but the section after that to Eun not fun at all. Still another two Donalds in the bag and no more negative reputation terrain on my last Donalds.

Now time to focus on the Corbetts that was the reason for my trip.

Ascent: 807m

Distance: 15.01km

Time: 4.37

Wildlife: Red Deer; Golden Eagle; Raven; Chaffinch; Wren; Cuckoo; Blackbird; Meadow Pipit; Skylark