A spectacular ridge walk to bring up the Graham 50.....Coigath ridge horseshoe

Hill: Ben Mor Coigach (743m) (Big mountain of Coigatch district) & Sgurr an Fhidhleir (705m) (Peak of the Fhidhleir)

Type: Graham x2

Leaving Ullapool Coigach ridge still almost an hours drive away

I set off early and arrived at the parking area at Culnacraig to find one remaining tight squeeze parking slot. Chattede to a couple in a camper who said most cars were here overnight their occupants backpacking somewhere in the area.

Beautiful morning at the start, looks steep

The hill looks ominously steep from here lol. I headed down the track, over the bridge and cut in to follow the track contouring the hill which headed for the ravine. I suspect I cut in too early but the faint on/off path through the heather and ferns could be followed. Although in a few weeks time the ferns and bracken will have grown hiding it.

I crossed the impressive ravine of the Allt nan Coisiche low down but it can be walked up its left side and crossed higher up. I climbed the light heather slopes on the right hand side before emerging at the moor. Might be early morning but I was perspiring. The moor was very dry today although reading previous reports it can be a bog at times.

From the moor heading to the far right

I headed to the right side of a landslip and then zig zagged up the rocky sandstone flanks. No proper path until I spot one higher up, almost at the ridge. God knows where it started or maybe it just started here. 

Track appeared for a while, ridge starts at the peak ahead

The ridge top still looks higher up than the picture suggests, a mild rocky scramble with the vertiginous drops now on the right. 

Arran ferry not heading for Arran but Ullapool

Below I could see the Arran ferry on its last Hebrides sailing, heading into Ullapool, the MV Seaforth apparently back in operation from tonight.

Loch Broom

Now on the top where the views are spectacular and the walking awkward. There is another on/off path slightly down to my left for those who do not like exposure. 

First sight of helicopter with An Teallach ridge behind

I could hear a helicopter which sounded very close, spotted it over Loch Broom, lost it and then it appeared behind me. It flew up for a look at me, I have never been so close to a flying helicopter, had I accidently set off my locator beacon. The crew had a look then flew over to the summit of Coigath where another sole walker was standing. The chopper flew a circle over his head, that looked dramatic before heading off deeper into Assynt and out of my sight.

V junction summit on left full ridge walk on right

Wow, back to the knife edged ridge. About half way along you come to a V junction to take the left fork to get to the highest point Ben More Coigach. 

View back from cairn to the ridge and the ascent across moor and down to the start

There is a solid cairn, ideal for shelter but not needed today. Absolutely stunning views all around.

Peak of Fhidhleir centre from Coigath

The second Graham is looking quite spectacular. It is a proper triangular peaked mountain with huge drops on two sides but from this side a relatively easy ascent.

Closer view showing the easy side

Before that you can drop of these flanks to the quarry but you are better of returning to the ridge and following it to its end to get the views in full.

Now descend with the steep slopes of Fhidhleir prominent. A short moorland trek but stunning Assynt views on your right make this slow going, take it all in.

Fhidhleir left, Stac Pollaidh centre, Sgorr Deas right

Golf bunkers and summit ahead

Again a sandy ascent, some of this could be golf bunkers, before reaching the exposed summit and if you do not like heights do not wander from the trig, it is scary.

Beinn an Eoin ridge to Sgorr Deas, Pollaidh left, Suilven middle, Cul Mor & Beag mid right

I spent some time chatting to the guy the chopper circled, an Aberdonian. As you do we ate, took in the views, talked about hills we had climbed and in the sunshine, fabulous. The views are probably another notch up.

Fhidhleir summit

Out to sea the Summer Isles and in the distant haze just spot the Hebrides. Closer the ridge of the 3rd Graham, Beinn an Eoin. 

Panorama

Then go for it, Cul Mor & Beag. Stac Pollaidh & Suilven and much much more. Assynt has been described as a lunar landscape, I wont disagree.

Descent centre but you could go via right ridge

You can complete the walk with another couple of uncategorised hills but I simply headed for the obvious track on the broad ridge and followed it back to the start. No rush, soaking in the views out o sea, the peninsula and far beyond, this is my country.

Finally back at the car very warm and sticky a shower will be welcome but what views, a magnificent day.

Ascent: 896m

Distance: 10.6km

Time: 5.18

Wildlife: Dottrell (1st of year I think); Raven; Wheatear; Hooded Crow; Meadow Pipit.