An ambition achieved.....Buachaille Etive Mor

Hill: Buachaille Etive Mor (Big Herdsman of Etive)....Stob Dearg (Red Peak) (1021m) Stob na Broige (Peak of the shoe) (956m)

Type: Munro x2

After so many years of waiting I finally got to ascend Buachaille Etive Mor's two Munros and I am so glad to say it did not disappoint, it was a spectacular walk. The pyramid pointed peak as you drive up the A82 has given me many a moment of pleasure/longing and now the day had arrived. I think that it is the most iconic/spectacular view of a mountain in Scotland, feel free to disagree.

Morning gloom yes there is a big mountain behind the hut

The walk got off to an ignominious start as the clouds were so low that very little could be seen. But the humidity was high and the midges were there by the million. Slight exaggeration but not quite, kit change was horrendous.

I was walking with a friends group so the pace/ability of strangers was my major concern particularly when the forecasted cloud would disappear and temperatures rise to unnatural temperatures for us Scots.

So under midge attack a prompt start was made and off we went passing the climbers hut, still in the gloom. 

Sctree or track

This is one very steep ascent into Corrie na Tulaich, but is better now that the constructed track saved us the continuous scree slope, discomforting strength sapping two steps forward and one back. When your moaning think of that and thank your lucky stars, In saying that the current track route is still steep and unstable at times but less likelihood of someone above dislodging a boulder which only goes one way, down and giving you a sore one.

Still in cloud high up

Cloudy it might be but cold it was not, the sweat was running heavily and all were soon puffing and panting. Water had to be conserved as our only opportunity to refill was on the descent off Stob na Broige and going by the burn beside us on the ascent there would not be much water around.

Ben Nevis plus Grey Corries appearing

A slow steady progress up the good track saw us passing and then being passed by various walkers as we all took our turn to pause and refresh and enjoy. Looking back, still clouds hanging to our ascent route. But above the clouds Wow. Ben Nevis, Grey Corries and many more tops peak out, magnificent.

Looking upwards small dots scrambling around show how much more still to be done. As we ascended the top section it became a find your own way up to the bealach and the cairn. Not hard but some hands on scrambling with care required. It did give a bit of stage fright to some of the group but they made it. No matter your fitness level there is relief to have got that section over and done with.

From the bealach Black Mount & Etive hills

The southern hills are covered in cloud but it is still an impressive sight.

Climb to Stob Dearg

A short break and from here there are clear views of a rocky/stony sometimes visible track that takes us up to the top of Stob Dearg. 

Top platea where ridge narrows

A short walk on to the final outcrop, where Curved Ridge climbers would meet the top. The feeling of great exposure is taken away today by the high clouds.

The whaleback of the Corbett Beinn a' Chrulaiste rising out of the clouds

Sadly this is where I had anticipated best views except they are still under cloud cover, where is Rannoch Moor?  

Looking down to the cars at Altnafeadh

How many times have I driven the road and looked at the massive buttresses and crags and wanted to stand at the end of them? The Glencoe Ski  Black Mount Munro hills, Schiehallion, Tyndrum hills etc all tops peaking through the clouds so not all lost.

Etive Beag, Bidean & Eagach much clearer in life than photos

But ,the real rewards are in the other direction, cloud free. A perfect view of the full Aonach Eagach ridge, never seen it from this perspective. Etive Beag so close you could touch and beyond it the mighty Bidean nam Bian, I am in my glory as I gorge on this beautiful landscape. 

View of Stob na Doire from Stob Dearg

Stob na Doire on left & Stob Coire Altrium on right

The sting in this walk is that there are not just two Munros but two Munro tops. From Dearg you now have a 4km ridge walk which starts with a descent and then reascent to the Munro top of Stob na Doire. For the effort involved this deserves to be a Munro in its own right. As we lunched at its top a couple appeared, a not so fit looking guy boasting loudly about their ascent time, so fast compared to expectations! The older guy seemed put out when told this was not the 2nd Munro. Dissing us him and his partner (daughter I think) disappeared back down to the ascent route. No doubt telling everyone he has completed the big walk when he is far short. Wonder how many Walkhighlands blue flags are similarly false?

Beginning the steep descent off Stob na doire

Now refreshed there remained a very steep descent of stone and scree. It is only when you look back you realise just how steep. 

The dangerous cliffs of Stob Coire Altruim

Then the slow plod up point 941m Stob Coire Altrium. Some of the group thought that the two cairns in sight were the top, oh no, the hill peaking out further on is the real top.

Stob na Broige finally can be seen its been hidden all walk

A short descent then narrow stony track starts the climbing again. Gradient and distances fine but the day is now energy sapping and progress is slower.

View down Glen and Loch Etive

With relief the top is reached greeting us with excellent views down Loch Etive with Ben Starva looking significantly higher than us, I know it is about 200m bigger but it must be a light illusion? The sun haze meant we could not see Mull etc but still good enough for the eyes if not the camera. Just like Stob Dearg this is an impressive peak but you are not aware of it from here. On three sides there are steep crags and drops not recommended for hillwalkers.

Looking back on the ridge just walked

More food time before the descent and finding the off track back down to the Lairig Gartain (Pass of the Ticks!!). 

Descent into the glen of ticks!

Initially the track is once again steep and stony with sections where sliding on the bum is required across angled granite slabs. This could be extremely tricky in wet/icy conditions. It is tough on my dodgy knee and as expected the temperature is soaring in the confined space. Thankfully a small pool held enough water for a refill, risky but no choice. Dehydration and heat stroke a real possibility on a day like this.

Long walk back through the glen

The glen finally reached a long walk out before the reaching the cars. I met a couple of ladies who had taken the circular route around Etive Beag. They admitted that had taken on too much but were revived a bit when their bottles were refilled from the burn. 

From the car at least it can be seen now

A walk that was long anticipated and it did not disappoint, overjoyed as the views were so spectacular. The walk probably took about an hour longer than If I was soloing but that is the price of group walking. A stunning day and now the real concern was would I get to the Green Welly before the off licence closed, I really must have a cold beer.

Ascent: 1150m

Distance: 14.6km

Time: 8.14

Wildlife: Meadow Brown; Raven; Dotterel

No wreckage but panoramic views.....Carn an t-Sagairt Mor

Hill: Carn an t-Sagairt Mor (Big cairn of the Priest)

Type: Munro

Height: 1047

I set off this morning to complete the White Mouth hills and hopefully find some plane wreckage. An RAF Canberra had crashed and despite two inquiries no cause could be established. Once again I was just able to squeeze into the car park but I did pay my fee this time, popular hills up here.

Start of walk lower Glen Callater

Sadly the walk begins with a 3 mile walk along a stony land rover track which is signposted 'Path to Glen Clova' aka Jock's Road. Not a lot of fun but at least the views are nice. I passed and chatted briefly to a couple heading for the same hill.

The walk begins proper when Loch Callater is reached. Just before the gate a track sets off on the left ascending through the heather. What a relief to get a proper hill track after the last few days of painful estate tracks.

Height is quickly but easily gained before a burn is crossed and the track then contours the hill for the length of the loch so there are good views looking back down to the loch and up to upper Glen Callater. The track well used, narrow but good condition. About half way along I spotted the couple walking along the side of the loch. The female was pointing to me but they kept going. I can only think they are going to ascend the plateau via Jocks Road and come back this way.

Jocks Road heading to the corrie

The views are superb over the loch and into the top end of Glen Callater, an impressive bowl with huge crags on either side, some view.

Target in sight

Still rising gradually with the track, about 200m gained, then a left turn flanking Creag an Loch and the rounded target is ahead, about 450m to go.

The track is excellent and has been well repaired where required. Having turned away from the loch this now seems pleasantly remote, the sound of silence. Again a very strong wind blowing through but it is not cold.

A slow plod up the track where some old fenceposts would provide some navigation comfort if conditions deteriorated.

I had not spotted any wreckage by the time I reached another track about 100m shy of the summit. Rather than go straight up I followed this track round the south flank for a while but still no bits of wreckage, just a mountain hare forced to break cover. Pleased to have seen quite a few hares around these hills over the last couple of weeks.

Broad plateau between the two cairns

I made my final ascent up the grassy flanks to get to the plateau where the wind was blowing unhindered across the wide plateau. I could see there were two cairns. The one I reached first looked slightly smaller but turned out to be the true summit. I wandered along the broad top to the other. 

Lochnagar point

Glenshee hills

Views are 360deg spectacular, the remaining 4 hills of the White Mouth Munros can be seen. Additionally the easterly Cairngorms of Ben Avon etc. I can also see the ugly mast on the top of The Cairnwell. At this point you are bordering Deeside & Angus.

Descent back to loch, lovely walk and views

I had a wander around and followed the posts back to the other track, still nothing. I had a bit of time pressure so headed down until I bumped into and stopped for a chat with 3 local worthies who walked the hill monthly. They confirmed the wreckage was indeed around and surprised I had not seen any, just my luck.

The Corbett of Creag nan Gabhar in background

Taking in the views I enjoyed the ramble back to the loch end almost stepping on a large frog.

Then the trudge back to the car, my feet were sore, the stones taking their toll and I was into the headwind. The tors of Ben Avon prominent on the skyline.

Purple heather erupts

One thing I did notice was how much of the heather had flowered, beautiful purple patches colouring the landscape. Does it just happen overnight as I had not been aware of until today?

I do not often repeat walks but this is one I will definitely do again. The views were great, I really enjoyed it. And I might even find some of that plane!

Ascent: 897m

Distance: 18.1km

Time: 4.21

Wildlife: Frog; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Mountain hare: Dark Green Fritillary; Small Heath; Red Admiral

Stunning Broad Cairn Circuit on a very hot day

Hill: Broad Cairn (998m) Cairn Bannoch (1012m) (Hill of the cake)

Type: Munro x2

Another glorious day forecast and my only decision was whether to do a 2 or 3 Munro outing. Over breakfast I decided the double would do as I wanted to ascend the 3^rd from a different direction to try to find some of the plane wreckage on the hill.

So after brekkie I headed for Spittal of Glen Muick. Arrived just before 9 to the large car park but it was rammed already, only space for 3 cars, I took one and before I set off the other two were bagged. It is £5 to park but the machine only takes cash I did not have enough coin. The ranger office will accept cards. But it is a bit away and a fellow walker said it was closed so left a note saying I would pay on my return!

Walking along Loch muick

There is a long walk alongside Loch Muick to get you started but a strong breeze so nice temperature.

Zig zags on the slope ahead

As you walk the the track steep zig zag ascent comes into view, that will draw perspiration allright. 

Broad Cairn now comes into view

A bit further along and Broad Cairn now comes into view, looks magnificent at the end of the loch but also looks a long way away.

As expected the zig zag had me blowing a bit but actually pleased how well I ascended it. Still it was a steep 500m ascent in anyone's books.

Full views of loch and mountains

At the top the gradient eases with some superb steep views down the loch and the very big isolated country house, wondered at first what Arab/Russkie owned that? Until something clicked that this was one of our Royal households, nice.

Hissing Sid

Too busy looking down I almost stood on an adder. It didn't like it either and showed me its forked tongue.

The next section was quite horrid and sore on the feet. The good track was just loose stones for about a kilometre. Not good footing and glad to be past it.

On the Mounth Broad Cairn 

Broad Cairn can be seen proper but is still a good walk away. There is still a good track that turns into embedded stone steps every so often. 

Wide patches close to become more stone steps

Whilst these are good you have to step up far higher than my normal skimming style, takes more effort.

But the sting in the tail is the boulder section which requires some hands on easy scrambling before the top pointed well built cairn appears. The wind is even stronger than yesterday which probably hides how burnt you could be getting as the sky still blue.

View ahead from Broad Cairn

Being brave no jacket on I head to Munro 2, Cairn Bannoch, actually the higher of the two. There is a brief view of it before you descend across the open moor. 

Decent walking to Cairn Bannoch

No great hardship as a good track has been eroded into the moor so just follow it. A short scramble over the boulders to the top.  Took my break sheltered from the wind and basking in both the sun and the views.

Short scramble

Munro 3 is along the plateau, easy going but I reckoned it would add another 1.5 – 2 hours, today is long enough.

Heading back to Broad Cairn

So a wandered back along to Broad Cairn, not nearly as steep from this side and now a few people being regularly passed. 

View back to Loch Muick from Broad Cairn

Had a couple of conversations with fellow walkers before descending via the same route. Whilst scrambling up the boulder field was relatively straight forward descending was more awkward but I survived.

Charlies abode

Another short break to admire the views down Loch Muick and to study Charlies place more closely. A superb waterfall that seems to disappear half way up/down. There was no outflow into the loch that I could see. I noticed movement on the hillside near it and now could see 4 people making good progress up the very steep track. Didnt look well equipped so I wondered if they were just doing the waterfall, surely not Lochnagar from there, who knows?

Loch Muick from top of zig zags

Another viewpoint at the top of the zig zags before trying not to heel slide on the steep stony descent. Did once a close call to another injury.

Resident greylags

Now the heat was full on and the walk back to the car was demanding, envious of the greylags at the lochside, luckily I had plenty of water left although it was warm, continually supping it as I walked. 

Look in good condition

Some movement on the hill and a herd of red deer stags 20+ grazing away. Second herd of stags that I have bumped into recently.

Back at the car, wardens office still closed, but the heat was unreal, we are not used to this in Scotland. A superb walk and had an extra fiver for a pint.

Ascent: 1011m

Distance: 24.65km

Time: 6.11

Wildlife: Adder; Peewit; Red deer; Greylag Geese; Meadow Pipit; Dark Green Fritillary; Small Heath;

A track all the way to Glas Tulaichean

 Hill: Glas Tulaichean (Green knolls)

Type: Munro

Height: 1051m

I was later in setting off but wanted to make use of the glorious forecast over few days. Opted for a single Munro that I was passing. It can be made into a double or even a treble but I suspected it was going to be far too hot for that.

As I was running late I parked at the exclusive hotel where they give you the privilege of parking with the guests for a fiver. Saved 3 miles of walking important on a hot day.

No go houses into field on left

Headed up the road where Walkhighlands says continue through the farm. A very old jeep with a pleasant young girl stopped and asked me if I was a guest of the farm cottages. Negative reply so I was encouraged to walk back a bit and follow the old railway sign. So I did and as I walked back she could not get her clapped out jeep to start, karma I thought.

On the old track which simply circles below the properties and re-joined the existing track.

This is one of the very few Munros where you could follow the estate track all the way to the trig.

Old railway track scarred track ahead

After a short walk through the glen a sign asks you to leave this, head up a grassy section and rejoin the old railway track which looks down on the estate one. Nice soft grassy walking, occasionally wet but today fine. It was hot though. Finally you have to descend to rejoin the estate track but there is a burn to cross. Not that easy even in these dry conditions so it could be fun at other times.

2 of the 3 Beinn a'Ghlo circuit

After that it is simply a slog following the estate track. Initially steep sections that got me huffing and puffing but before long there were good views on my left over Beinn a’Ghlo hills.

Not sure why a cairn here but 1st view of the top

But really in the early stages not a lot to look at until a cairn is reached which gives a view of the target including the unsightly track. I suppose it is up to each individual whether they approve of these tracks but cannot slag them as I am using it.

Stick figures at top of the track

Then the hill comes alive with people. My dodgy eyes could not confirm if it was people or a fence I could see near the summit. As it turned out it was a junction of people some ascending and some descending. A group of 5 came by descending but barely an acknowledgement, strange people. Then a couple from England who stopped for a chat, there 1^st Munro. Whilst we were talking another 3 came by with only one nodding.

As I neared the top there was a small cairn with a worn track. What off roading? I decided to take it and for a short section I was proper hillwalking lol.

Nice view from the trig

Reached the trig and to be fair the panoramic views were absolutely excellent. 2 hours 10, happy with that. Just over from the trig 5 youngsters who again made no eye contact, must have forgotten the aftershave!!

Carn a Righ

Beinn Iutharn Mor on right 

Beinn Iutharn Mor on left and Loch nan Euan with An Socath behind it

Excellent views of the other two Munros but definitely a stretch too far today in these heat. I reckon they would double the ascent and add about another 10-12k to the distance.

Follow track again, hard stuff!!

It was actually breezy up top but as I started my descent the heat built up. Rather than go back via the old railway I stuck to the estate track and found out why they recommend the old railway. You have to cross 3 fords. Just like the one on the ascent all three were just on the line. Quite wide water with a few balancing strides on rocks but avoided wet feet. Again in other conditions these could be interesting.

Old railway track on left contouring hill

With hills on either side the heat was oppressive. Not sweating on the low level track but feeling that the body was overheating, it was a full on warm one. Water from the water sac being used to douse my head and from the burns the hat got a good soaking.

Common Blue

Back at the car and took a small bounty bar out of the rucksack, it was almost melted. When I drove the car away from the hotel the temp was showing as 28deg, for walking in Scotland that is hot.

A good walk but priorities now are a shower and then cold beer time.

Ascent: 702m

Distance: 16.7k

Time: 4.19

Wildlife: Buzzard; Wheatear; Skylark; Wood pigeon; Dark green fritilary; Small Heath; Common Blue