Just a half a ramble today.....Beinn Bhreac Cairngorm

Hill: Beinn Bhreac (Cairngorm) (Speckled Hill)

Type: Munro

Height: 930m

I was still feeling tightness and tenderness with the medial calf that I strained a few weeks ago so I was a bit troubled about what to do today. I had signed up for this walk which I knew should be a straightforward Munro double. The distance was the issue as I was not convinced that the calf would survive a 30k hike so I opted to reduce that by cycling to Derry Lodge. My plan was to decide after Beinn Bhreac whether to continue or not but the tightness/pain had gone up a few notches on the morning of the walk so decision made, just a single Munro.

Derry Cairngorm in the shade, Carn a' Mhain left of centre

At the Linn of Dee start Gillian from ADRC was the only other walker apart from the guide. After I had told the organiser I was cycling part of it it appeared that we all did. We all cycled the almost 4 miles to Derry Lodge which was less than 30 minutes from Linn of Dee, where the walk officially started, time saved. Heard a cuckoo calling, must be about time for the males to start migrating back to Africa.

Start of ATV track

Views opening up Tor of Beinn Mheadhoin

All the reports that I had read described walking a kilometre before cutting up the hill. But after only a couple of minutes the guide surprised me by heading off up an ATV track. His reasoning was that it was less boggy and less populated. Both correct as no-one else was seen on this route until we neared the normal track.

1st view of Beinn Bhreac on left we continue up to the right

This turned out to be a nice gradient and a pleasant walk, the weather good. Views getting better as we rose. We continued on the ATV track almost to the top of Meall an Lundain at 777m.

Full view of Beinn Bhreac 

Just before the top we headed cross country. We dropped about 70m and the terrain involved a lot of dodging the many peat hags. I could see a couple of walkers about half way up the final pull to the coll of Beinn Bhreac. There were other walkers around but I recognised their outfits as being the pair who were just in front of us at Derry Lodge. Although I enjoyed the different route it was a longer walk, added another 70m of ascent and about 30 minutes extra to the top. No issue for me but If I had been doing both it added extra on an already long day.

Ascent track on right, descent on left

Looking at the final climb our route was taking us up via a clear path on the eastern side but slightly further west walkers were using another track, the main one.

A straightforward ascent, losing and re finding the track a few times but no difficulty to the ridge.

The cairn was a short crossing across the boulder field but pretty easy going normally but today the rocky terrain was testing my calf. 

View to Lochnagar

Beinn a' Chaorainn in the centre

Great views all round. A bit hazy over to the Lochnagar group but the main view dominated by Derry Cairngorm and the torr's on Beinn Mheadhoin were spectacular.

With regret I had to leave the others. Disappointed as the other Munro involved no major ascent but as said not for me today.

I wandered across the stony terrain before deciding to just head down where I soon picked up the main track. I could see a small cairn in the distance. Again the track came and went but just headed to the cairn and picked it up again.

From the cairn another good view of the track heading far down but surprisingly nobody ascending. Solo time again.

Quite boggy in parts but once I hit the trees the bog factor went up considerably so 15 minutes of gloop avoiding before I hit the return track.

Azure Hawker

Then walked the kilometre as mentioned earlier back to to Derry Lodge and the bike was still there. It was a good section for birdlife and I had a brilliant bonus, an Azure Hawker. Pretty sure that it was my 1^st sighting of the year.

Bike park

Biked the same track but when I reached the road I extended the cycle by a few more miles to get a bit more out of the day.

Back at the car my leg was throbbing a bit more so the right decision had been made to do just the one hill. A good ramble and an opportunity is there to return one day for the other Munro.

Ascent: 801m

Distance: 21.5km

Time: 5.02

Wildlife: Red Grouse; Red Kite; Common Frog; Vole; Redstart; Willow Warbler; Peacock Butterfly; Meadow Pipit; Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Goldcrest; Azure Hawker; Cuckoo;

One for the baggers.....Meall Alvie

Hill: Meall Alvie

Type: Sub2k

Height: 560m

An early hint of Autumn when I opened the curtains this morning, damp with clouds hovering just above the rooftops. Forecast for high hills was that it might clear by noon but be under cloud later in the afternoon. Not worth the effort for no views so Plan B into operation.

Meall Alvie was my choice. I had planned to do it tomorrow but today I should get some views with its lower height but I also knew it was a potentially rough terrain ramble.

As it was a short hike and I wanted to get a bit more exercise so I cycled to the start but not only was it a grey morning it was also windy and decidedly cool as I made my way alongside the River Dee heading for the Invercauld estate. Stopped for a minute and watched a ghillie teaching some newbie anglers how to cast. Doubt that they will be catching in that very low water.

Felt a bit strange to just breeze past the car park as I headed straight up the forest track. As I approached my start point for leaving the bike a huge red deer hind walked out of the pine trees on my left, crossed my path and with a quick glance towards me entered the trees on the other side. I was so busy trying to spot it in the woods that I went past my starting point so had to double back to find it.

The start of the track

Most of the walk reports that I had read had described this as hard going but like the report by ‘Walking with Kids’ I had spotted a track on the map that seemed like it could save a lot of undergrowth bashing. I had first thought about this hill a few years back when I walked past it en route to bagging the Corbett double and even then it looked a toughie from other starts but it also suggested some good views if there was a break in the trees.

I pushed the bike up the track to find a tree to attach it to. The track was quite overgrown from the start. Heather encroaching and much natural pine tree growth and I suspect that in a few years this path will be a no no.

Another sign of early Autumn were the multitude of money spider webs on show this damp morning. I had kept on my waterproof leggings knowing the undergrowth would be high and wet but also as a bonus a lot of leg scratches were avoided. As well as all those ticks and other beasties. But somewhere along the way I got bitten on my neck, probably as I brushed past low hanging trees. I was not to become aware of the impact of the bites until later.

Looks wider than reality, I reckon my neck beastie bite took place around here

Thankfully opening out

Made good progress and then reached the bracken/heather patch (snap below from my descent). For about 5 minutes not pleasant going battling through the undergrowth so when I reached the trees I was delighted. The hillside from here was steep but the underfoot was so much better, soft mossy grass and large patches of blaeberry shrubbery made for easier going and some nutrition, sour but still sweet.

Lovely section of wild woodland walking

Apart from the odd bird chirping in the trees it was silent going, a nice period of calm and reflection.

Short but brutal

I was almost at the summit where there was another deep heather patch to overcome, which turned out to be the toughest walking of the lot. Waist high heather at times, with many hidden holes, careful going required.

Summit stones

Standing at the top I could see some stones hidden amidst some trees, too far away from the dyke to be part of that. A careful trip around the other side and yes these were the summit stones, probably were part of the dyke originally. 

Short burst of sunlight on Culdaroch, it didn't last for long

Nowadays I would have cycled that good track but back in the days it was a hike

Over to the dyke and some views over to the two Corbetts which brought back memories, that was a long ramble on a warm day as I recall. There was even a spot of sunshine illuminating the flanks of Culardoch.

Descending the good going through the woodland

The horrible bracken/heather section tackled up and down, where's the path?

Magnificent stag

A straightforward return by the ascent route where I got a nice surprise and spotted 3 Stags grazing in a side meadow. The rut is not too far away and these guys wont be pals much more.

I was surprised coming down the track that despite all the berries around there was no scat from pine martins or fox. A pair of buzzards had been calling when I started the hike and the same pair were still going at it when I got back to the bike.

Not what I had planned for the day but an enjoyable Plan B nevertheless.

Ascent: 321m (Bike/Hike)

Distance: 15.8 (Bike/Hike)

Time: 2.21 (Bike/Hike)

Wildlife: Buzzard; Meadow Pipit; Coal Tit; Red deer (Hind); Red deer (Stag); Wren; Swallow;

Tiring for the wrong reasons.....Derry Cairngorm

Hill: Derry Cairngorm (The Blue hill of Glen Derry)

Type: Munro

Height: 1155m

After the previous nights stop start sleep I slept soundly last night and awoke at 6am feeling fully refreshed, but more to follow.

I arrived at the Linn of Dee car park around an hour later and what a greeting the midgies were ferocious and they love biting me. Jacket fully zipped and hooded, glasses on, I quickly removed the bike from the back, boots on and cycling as quickly as I could.

Luckily I had kept on my light jacket from the midge protection as it was on the cool side when I cycled to Derry Lodge. 

The forest section ahead with Creag Bad an-t Seabhaig beyond

Upon arrival at the lodge and securing my bike the car park midgies cousins erupted so I was very quickly on my way across the bridge.

Apart from the buzzing of bees on the beautiful pink/purple heather it was silent as I made my way up the ever steepening track.

I had been surprised at my sound sleep, not normal for me to sleep so deeply. On the bike ride my legs did not feel too good and as I steeply ascended I was very chesty. I had two prominent insect bites from yesterday and I suspect one of these was responsible.

Now I was wondering how far I would get on today's ramble. I therefore had less focus on how nice a start this was. Upwards through the tree lined heather on a very good rising path the only sound apart from the bees and my heavy breathing was a small family of Coal Tits moving through the trees. They got quite agitated at one point but I could not see any predator.

I had a few short stops which were much required as I knew I was struggling a bit. The last break was where I took half a banana and an energy gell and these made all the difference. I have never known a nutrition hit to energise me so much. 

Easier walking and thus easier breathing

Mind and body improved, even more so when I cleared the steep ascent at Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig and the vista started to open up. An unexpected wow moment as I took it all in, the steep start was now worth it.

It was still much colder than expected. Blame the midgies, I had grabbed a lightweight jacket from the car but it was designed more for waterproofing than warmth.

Still looking at the summits ahead and around there was still a lot more cloud shrouding them, maybe the wet gear would be required.

I was really enjoying this open section with all round fantastic views. The first sighting of Derry was with a clear summit but at the next sighting it was cloud covered, one of those days.

View into Glen Derry and a very dry Derry Burn. Beinn Bhreac behind Beinn a' Bhurd behind that again.

Onwards and upwards, bypassing Carn Crom I now had Little Cairngorm in sight. Eventually this lump blocked out views of Derry itself. I had not realised that the term ‘Derry’ was a relatively recent addition as the hill was previously known simply as Cairngorm. But then you have had two in the region with the same name, hence the addition of Derry. Although does it matter, there are 3 Corbetts named Carn Dearg’s in the Fort William section.

Ben Macdui

Little Cairngorm

There were some smashing views on either side as I ascended which helped break the hike as I rested and checked what I was looking at.

As is frequently the case a nice ramble is spoiled by the final section to the summit. In this case a large boulder field which led to quite a few hands on manoeuvres and a few sweary words before I reached the summit.

Northern Cairngorms

Beinn Mheadhoin ahead and Beinn a' Chaorainn on right

Lochan Uaine

Thankfully no cloud up top with excellent views all round apart from Beinn Mheadhoin which did still have cloud cover so I did not get a view of its main feature, its Torrs.

I had considered doing it as well but it was now a hot day and my legs were feeling it. Knowing when to stop is as important on the hills as when out for a drink. 

Getting over this stuff is easier going up than down

The positive aspect of not going further was that I got to enjoy a leisurely descent taking in all the glorious views.

Although it wasn't as peaceful as the ascent. There was a lot of helicopter activity with a pair of very noisy Chinooks both in glens or hovering above ridges, possibly civilian hires bringing materials for repairing tracks etc. but they covered a fair amount of ground.

But the special moment was just as I passed Carn Crom. I heard a fighter jet down in Glen Derry and new it must be close and within seconds it had crested the ridge just in front of me. I have never been so close to a fighter plane, what a noise, ears pounding but a stunning sight. The plane did a full 360 degree roll, not for my benefit I’m sure, before heading towards Glen Tilt. Never mind the Munro that made my day.

Cracking spot for a break

No more drama on the descent. I stopped for my last break with excellent views of the descent where I had struggled earlier plus looking down on the start of the Lairig Ghru which brought back memories from last year.

Final descent and a view of Glen Lui for the ride bike

Collected my bike and cycled back to the car with no midgies at either spot.

A good ramble and it was just enough. When I got back to my digs I showered and fell asleep for almost 2 hours, not normal, blamed those bloody insects.

PS: After this away trip I was still fatigued a couple of weeks later so I went to my GP and got a full set of bloods including my 1st Lyme's disease test. All negative so good news on that front. Also it was good that I waited as the GP said they will not do a Lyme's Disease test until 2 weeks after a bite.

Ascent: 943m

Distance: 23.2

Time: 6.02 (Bike/Hike)

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Raven; Coal Tit;

Another reluctant to do hill proves to be a goodie.....Sgur Mor

Hill: Sgor Mor (Big Peak)

Type: Corbett

Height: 813m

After an emotional and draining day yesterday at the funeral I had always planned to be on this summit today, weather permitting and it was. For this time of the year it was a very cold but blue sky start to the day.

I had missed out bagging Sgor Mor for quite a few years entirely due to the reports about the poor walking conditions. It is a huge baseline hill with no regular way up so for the most part it will be pathless walking, through deep heather before hitting a peat hagged, bog soaked moor. You get the picture now for delaying this ramble.

I had read reviews but looking at the map there looked a better route (in theory) that I had not seen any reports about. there was only one way to find out but it does increase the pre walk nerves.

Start

I cycled to the start from Braemar, but you can walk the 2 miles or so from Linn of Dee, until I reached a small quarry, just where the river turns away from the track. I hid the bike just in case any bad characters around, it does happen. Although the initial slopes have a good covering of heather there were enough grassy sections to make the ascent easier. As it turned out I mainly followed a small burn up to the highest point I could see from the track.

From there my plan was to take a 90deg westerly and head for the named summit of Carn Mor. I think whoever named these hills had a dram or two too many, rounded but not big. The going was good, more dry ground than wet and the heather shorter than earlier.

Now I could see the top I was heading for. Sgor Mor, its name suggests a big peak, maybe from other viewpoints but not from here. From Carn Mor it was a long moor crossing to a rocky outcrop which led to a craggy summit but not a peak!

See how dry some sections are before the bog section

The satellite view shows this ground as a huge peat hagged moor, which had made me think twice, but the reality was that the hags were few and far between. The ground alternated between crunchy dried grass, wet boggy patches and heather but nothing to cause any worries, just concentration. At a few odd bright green pools of small water I stuck the pole in and it did not touch hard ground, so take care.

Now sandstone

A couple of red deer had spotted/smelt me and were running to the ridge disappearing over and gone. At first I thought two stags but looking at the snaps probably a hind with its youngster, a stag.

This moorland crossing would probably be better with someone to talk to as it is a bit of a plod. There were glimpses of snow topped hills just behind the ridge to keep me interested with mind games, what hills was I seeing?

Meadow pipits aplenty and the odd Skylark rose regularly but apart from the deer nothing else up here.

Track appears just before the rocks

Over the moor and onto the ridge and there was actually a faint track for the last few hundred metres. The views were now taking a lot of my attention.

Beinn a' Ghlo in distance

Some biggies, Braeriach, MacDui, Carn a'Mhain and more

Beinn Bhrotain

Then summit reached after 1hr 40min, surprised and pleased with that, justified my decision. The views are spectacular as this is a genuine stand alone hill. The closest tops are the Eastern Cairngorm giants along with the Lairig Gruh absolutely spectacular and my favourite hill pass.

In the distance the Beinn A Ghlo mountains dominated that horizon. It was proper silence until the fighter jet that flew up the Dee before turning and heading down Glen Tilt, noisy but I enjoyed the spectacle.

Throw in the distant peaks of the Lohnagar and the Cairnwell Munros, not too shabby a view.

Broad plateau with Lochnagar range in distance

I'm heading right of lochan Carn Mhor behind

These hills were forrested, wood emerging from peat hag

However the northerly wind was not a spring one, more associated with winter so time to head back the same route. No issues just the same careful plod in reverse.

Make a right turn soon

River Dee with Glen Feshie ahead

Back down to find the bike still as left. I was looking at the river and saw a grey wagtail rise for a fly and fall back to the rocks. Oddly I could see three of them rising and falling until one came close and it was a Pied interloper.

I enjoyed the cycle back, using the bike saved at least an hour if walking from Linn of Dee.

Ascent: 503m

Distance: 8.8km

Time: 2.58

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Pied Wagtail; Grey Wagtail; Red Deer (Stags)