Just a half a ramble today.....Beinn Bhreac Cairngorm

Hill: Beinn Bhreac (Cairngorm) (Speckled Hill)

Type: Munro

Height: 930m

I was still feeling tightness and tenderness with the medial calf that I strained a few weeks ago so I was a bit troubled about what to do today. I had signed up for this walk which I knew should be a straightforward Munro double. The distance was the issue as I was not convinced that the calf would survive a 30k hike so I opted to reduce that by cycling to Derry Lodge. My plan was to decide after Beinn Bhreac whether to continue or not but the tightness/pain had gone up a few notches on the morning of the walk so decision made, just a single Munro.

Derry Cairngorm in the shade, Carn a' Mhain left of centre

At the Linn of Dee start Gillian from ADRC was the only other walker apart from the guide. After I had told the organiser I was cycling part of it it appeared that we all did. We all cycled the almost 4 miles to Derry Lodge which was less than 30 minutes from Linn of Dee, where the walk officially started, time saved. Heard a cuckoo calling, must be about time for the males to start migrating back to Africa.

Start of ATV track

Views opening up Tor of Beinn Mheadhoin

All the reports that I had read described walking a kilometre before cutting up the hill. But after only a couple of minutes the guide surprised me by heading off up an ATV track. His reasoning was that it was less boggy and less populated. Both correct as no-one else was seen on this route until we neared the normal track.

1st view of Beinn Bhreac on left we continue up to the right

This turned out to be a nice gradient and a pleasant walk, the weather good. Views getting better as we rose. We continued on the ATV track almost to the top of Meall an Lundain at 777m.

Full view of Beinn Bhreac 

Just before the top we headed cross country. We dropped about 70m and the terrain involved a lot of dodging the many peat hags. I could see a couple of walkers about half way up the final pull to the coll of Beinn Bhreac. There were other walkers around but I recognised their outfits as being the pair who were just in front of us at Derry Lodge. Although I enjoyed the different route it was a longer walk, added another 70m of ascent and about 30 minutes extra to the top. No issue for me but If I had been doing both it added extra on an already long day.

Ascent track on right, descent on left

Looking at the final climb our route was taking us up via a clear path on the eastern side but slightly further west walkers were using another track, the main one.

A straightforward ascent, losing and re finding the track a few times but no difficulty to the ridge.

The cairn was a short crossing across the boulder field but pretty easy going normally but today the rocky terrain was testing my calf. 

View to Lochnagar

Beinn a' Chaorainn in the centre

Great views all round. A bit hazy over to the Lochnagar group but the main view dominated by Derry Cairngorm and the torr's on Beinn Mheadhoin were spectacular.

With regret I had to leave the others. Disappointed as the other Munro involved no major ascent but as said not for me today.

I wandered across the stony terrain before deciding to just head down where I soon picked up the main track. I could see a small cairn in the distance. Again the track came and went but just headed to the cairn and picked it up again.

From the cairn another good view of the track heading far down but surprisingly nobody ascending. Solo time again.

Quite boggy in parts but once I hit the trees the bog factor went up considerably so 15 minutes of gloop avoiding before I hit the return track.

Azure Hawker

Then walked the kilometre as mentioned earlier back to to Derry Lodge and the bike was still there. It was a good section for birdlife and I had a brilliant bonus, an Azure Hawker. Pretty sure that it was my 1^st sighting of the year.

Bike park

Biked the same track but when I reached the road I extended the cycle by a few more miles to get a bit more out of the day.

Back at the car my leg was throbbing a bit more so the right decision had been made to do just the one hill. A good ramble and an opportunity is there to return one day for the other Munro.

Ascent: 801m

Distance: 21.5km

Time: 5.02

Wildlife: Red Grouse; Red Kite; Common Frog; Vole; Redstart; Willow Warbler; Peacock Butterfly; Meadow Pipit; Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Goldcrest; Azure Hawker; Cuckoo;

Tiring for the wrong reasons.....Derry Cairngorm

Hill: Derry Cairngorm (The Blue hill of Glen Derry)

Type: Munro

Height: 1155m

After the previous nights stop start sleep I slept soundly last night and awoke at 6am feeling fully refreshed, but more to follow.

I arrived at the Linn of Dee car park around an hour later and what a greeting the midgies were ferocious and they love biting me. Jacket fully zipped and hooded, glasses on, I quickly removed the bike from the back, boots on and cycling as quickly as I could.

Luckily I had kept on my light jacket from the midge protection as it was on the cool side when I cycled to Derry Lodge. 

The forest section ahead with Creag Bad an-t Seabhaig beyond

Upon arrival at the lodge and securing my bike the car park midgies cousins erupted so I was very quickly on my way across the bridge.

Apart from the buzzing of bees on the beautiful pink/purple heather it was silent as I made my way up the ever steepening track.

I had been surprised at my sound sleep, not normal for me to sleep so deeply. On the bike ride my legs did not feel too good and as I steeply ascended I was very chesty. I had two prominent insect bites from yesterday and I suspect one of these was responsible.

Now I was wondering how far I would get on today's ramble. I therefore had less focus on how nice a start this was. Upwards through the tree lined heather on a very good rising path the only sound apart from the bees and my heavy breathing was a small family of Coal Tits moving through the trees. They got quite agitated at one point but I could not see any predator.

I had a few short stops which were much required as I knew I was struggling a bit. The last break was where I took half a banana and an energy gell and these made all the difference. I have never known a nutrition hit to energise me so much. 

Easier walking and thus easier breathing

Mind and body improved, even more so when I cleared the steep ascent at Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig and the vista started to open up. An unexpected wow moment as I took it all in, the steep start was now worth it.

It was still much colder than expected. Blame the midgies, I had grabbed a lightweight jacket from the car but it was designed more for waterproofing than warmth.

Still looking at the summits ahead and around there was still a lot more cloud shrouding them, maybe the wet gear would be required.

I was really enjoying this open section with all round fantastic views. The first sighting of Derry was with a clear summit but at the next sighting it was cloud covered, one of those days.

View into Glen Derry and a very dry Derry Burn. Beinn Bhreac behind Beinn a' Bhurd behind that again.

Onwards and upwards, bypassing Carn Crom I now had Little Cairngorm in sight. Eventually this lump blocked out views of Derry itself. I had not realised that the term ‘Derry’ was a relatively recent addition as the hill was previously known simply as Cairngorm. But then you have had two in the region with the same name, hence the addition of Derry. Although does it matter, there are 3 Corbetts named Carn Dearg’s in the Fort William section.

Ben Macdui

Little Cairngorm

There were some smashing views on either side as I ascended which helped break the hike as I rested and checked what I was looking at.

As is frequently the case a nice ramble is spoiled by the final section to the summit. In this case a large boulder field which led to quite a few hands on manoeuvres and a few sweary words before I reached the summit.

Northern Cairngorms

Beinn Mheadhoin ahead and Beinn a' Chaorainn on right

Lochan Uaine

Thankfully no cloud up top with excellent views all round apart from Beinn Mheadhoin which did still have cloud cover so I did not get a view of its main feature, its Torrs.

I had considered doing it as well but it was now a hot day and my legs were feeling it. Knowing when to stop is as important on the hills as when out for a drink. 

Getting over this stuff is easier going up than down

The positive aspect of not going further was that I got to enjoy a leisurely descent taking in all the glorious views.

Although it wasn't as peaceful as the ascent. There was a lot of helicopter activity with a pair of very noisy Chinooks both in glens or hovering above ridges, possibly civilian hires bringing materials for repairing tracks etc. but they covered a fair amount of ground.

But the special moment was just as I passed Carn Crom. I heard a fighter jet down in Glen Derry and new it must be close and within seconds it had crested the ridge just in front of me. I have never been so close to a fighter plane, what a noise, ears pounding but a stunning sight. The plane did a full 360 degree roll, not for my benefit I’m sure, before heading towards Glen Tilt. Never mind the Munro that made my day.

Cracking spot for a break

No more drama on the descent. I stopped for my last break with excellent views of the descent where I had struggled earlier plus looking down on the start of the Lairig Ghru which brought back memories from last year.

Final descent and a view of Glen Lui for the ride bike

Collected my bike and cycled back to the car with no midgies at either spot.

A good ramble and it was just enough. When I got back to my digs I showered and fell asleep for almost 2 hours, not normal, blamed those bloody insects.

PS: After this away trip I was still fatigued a couple of weeks later so I went to my GP and got a full set of bloods including my 1st Lyme's disease test. All negative so good news on that front. Also it was good that I waited as the GP said they will not do a Lyme's Disease test until 2 weeks after a bite.

Ascent: 943m

Distance: 23.2

Time: 6.02 (Bike/Hike)

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Raven; Coal Tit;

Finally Scotland's most iconic long distance pass.....Lairig Ghru

Walk: Lairig Ghru (Forbidden or gloomy pass)

This has been on my must do list for as long as I have been interested in hillwalking but the logistics never seemed to come together. It is probably the most best known mountain pass in Scotland and probably Britain. This is a vast area with the walk splitting huge mountains, the slopes of 3 of the 4 highest in Scotland included. Ralph Storer says ‘Its scale has to be seen to be appreciated. For grandeur and variety of scenery it is without equal’. Fully endorsed.

This year I decided it was now or never and that I would do it solo, starting in Braemar and staying in Aviemore afterwards or getting the good lady to drive me back. But when doing my research I came across a firm called Hillgoers who started the direction I wanted to go from at the Braemar side but more importantly had a mini bus to run you back to Braemar. Sorted, some company and a lift, well worth the money. The walk has no escape routes if the weather turns bad or an accident happens, all adds to the pre-walk tension. Walking from this direction means a gentler but longer ascent to the high pointat the Pools of Dee.

I had cadged a lift to the start at Linn of Dee. Bumped into Ben Dolphin and reminisced about a walk we did together when he was Ramblers president.

The weather was to be warmer than I would have liked, well laden with liquid but as I found out there were some streams to fill up en route. A motley crew we were, introductions made and off we went.

I had walked the start section before with ADRC when we did the Munro of Carn a’Mhaim. Initially it seemed different I think because we visited the river to see the falls, before memory returned when we rejoined the main track to the abandoned Derry Lodge. Glen Luibeg & Glen Lui alongside Scots Pine, moor and bubbling streams. Really weird I said aloud that I would have expected to hear a cuckoo today and in less than 10 seconds one started calling. We all burst out laughing, as it turned out the only one heard today.

All went well until we reached the river crossing which was running quite high. The group split a couple crossing whilst the rest of us walked up to the bridge crossing adding an extra kilometer or more walking in the already hot day.

I was first across the bridge to be greeted by a very attractive young lady skinny dipping. When she realised a party was coming through it was a quick exit to put on knickers and a top, her partner just smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

Bypassing the Munro we were now on the Lairig proper. We wound our way round the mountain track until Corrour Bothy came into view. Located below the Devils Penis (Point) it has an impressive backdrop but your eye is also aware of the long trail heading along Glen Dee towards the giant slopes of Cairn Toul on the left and Ben Macdui on the right, as rugged terrain as you will get any where in Scotland. The eye is led by that trail winding ahead but there is also the knowledge of what is round the corner, still only about a third into the walk.

I had no illusions regarding the roughness of the terrain on the so called path but even so it surprised me. It was full on concentration to avoid tripping and sadly at times the views were ignored as the path was the focus and indeed that remained so for most of the walk. When we stopped and looked around it was ruggedly breathtaking. There are constant rock landslips to remind you that this is an active landscape. Indeed at one point we heard a noise and looked up and a large boulder was rolling down a patch of snow leaving a firm trail, it was a heavy one.

Porridge corrie

An Garbe Choire

The area of the one of the great corries, An Garbe Choire (The rough corrie) and spectacularly rough it is, still quite a bit of snow around. ‘Porridge’ corrie is equally impressive. Some cattle fell from the top through a cornice and smashed up quite a bit hence the name.

The watershed at this spot is where the falls come down off Braeriach and Macdui and is as impressive as the corrie. Although the Dee’s source starts on the Braeriach plateau many regard this as the start as it is also joined by the water from the Pools of Dee. A good spot to pour water over my head and refill. It was very humid but at times a strong chilling breeze blew into our backs, nice relief and better than blowing in your face.

Boulder field beckons

Then the boulder field(s) came into view. We chatted with the occasional walker(s) that we met before this and they all called the boulder field long and arduous. Our guide

George said it was 5 minutes. The reality was much nearer George's view as indeed there is a track which makes it easier, not easy, but with hindsight is probably easy to lose if coming from the north thus enduring a much longer and harder boulder field crossing. There are possibly 3 different sections of boulders but our first is the most awkward if that track is missed.

There are 3 or 4 Pools of Dee, some vibrant green, a contrast to the stony slopes and a beautiful spot to take another short break.

Lurchers gully now showing impressively to the right in distance. I had in my mind this was much closer to the finish, walk ending soon, no chance.

Lurchers Gully

Still 3 hours to go but now downhill all the way

Then we reached the highest point of the Lairig with views of Aviemore beyond. The views forward and back, superb. Checked the GPS and we have covered exactly 20km. It might be all downhill from here but it is still at least another 10km, more as it turned out. Another 3 hours of walking.

It was a weird day as I tripped twice on the descent from here, nothing hurt other than pride. Tiredness, lack of concentration I don't know but it happened.

As it turned out it was 3 hours from that cairn and although the Caledonian pine Forrest is unique and grand viewing, particularly on the higher descent, the truth is that we just wanted the walk over. The chatter had reduced, a good pace was being kept. The Cairngorm Club footbridge was a welcome sight, finally getting there.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

No doubt that this was an incredible day out with outstanding views and exceeded my expectations. But it was also a very demanding long walk, very hard on the feet, testing my physical and mental capacity.

Ambition achieved, glad I did it but a repeat, I don't think so, at least not in the short term.

Ascent: 811m

Distance: 32.9km

Time: 10.21

Wildlife: Meadow pipit; Willow warbler; Common Sandpiper; Ring Ouzel (heard); Cuckoo (heard)