Finally Scotland's most iconic long distance pass.....Lairig Ghru

Walk: Lairig Ghru (Forbidden or gloomy pass)

This has been on my must do list for as long as I have been interested in hillwalking but the logistics never seemed to come together. It is probably the most best known mountain pass in Scotland and probably Britain. This is a vast area with the walk splitting huge mountains, the slopes of 3 of the 4 highest in Scotland included. Ralph Storer says ‘Its scale has to be seen to be appreciated. For grandeur and variety of scenery it is without equal’. Fully endorsed.

This year I decided it was now or never and that I would do it solo, starting in Braemar and staying in Aviemore afterwards or getting the good lady to drive me back. But when doing my research I came across a firm called Hillgoers who started the direction I wanted to go from at the Braemar side but more importantly had a mini bus to run you back to Braemar. Sorted, some company and a lift, well worth the money. The walk has no escape routes if the weather turns bad or an accident happens, all adds to the pre-walk tension. Walking from this direction means a gentler but longer ascent to the high pointat the Pools of Dee.

I had cadged a lift to the start at Linn of Dee. Bumped into Ben Dolphin and reminisced about a walk we did together when he was Ramblers president.

The weather was to be warmer than I would have liked, well laden with liquid but as I found out there were some streams to fill up en route. A motley crew we were, introductions made and off we went.

I had walked the start section before with ADRC when we did the Munro of Carn a’Mhaim. Initially it seemed different I think because we visited the river to see the falls, before memory returned when we rejoined the main track to the abandoned Derry Lodge. Glen Luibeg & Glen Lui alongside Scots Pine, moor and bubbling streams. Really weird I said aloud that I would have expected to hear a cuckoo today and in less than 10 seconds one started calling. We all burst out laughing, as it turned out the only one heard today.

All went well until we reached the river crossing which was running quite high. The group split a couple crossing whilst the rest of us walked up to the bridge crossing adding an extra kilometer or more walking in the already hot day.

I was first across the bridge to be greeted by a very attractive young lady skinny dipping. When she realised a party was coming through it was a quick exit to put on knickers and a top, her partner just smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

Bypassing the Munro we were now on the Lairig proper. We wound our way round the mountain track until Corrour Bothy came into view. Located below the Devils Penis (Point) it has an impressive backdrop but your eye is also aware of the long trail heading along Glen Dee towards the giant slopes of Cairn Toul on the left and Ben Macdui on the right, as rugged terrain as you will get any where in Scotland. The eye is led by that trail winding ahead but there is also the knowledge of what is round the corner, still only about a third into the walk.

I had no illusions regarding the roughness of the terrain on the so called path but even so it surprised me. It was full on concentration to avoid tripping and sadly at times the views were ignored as the path was the focus and indeed that remained so for most of the walk. When we stopped and looked around it was ruggedly breathtaking. There are constant rock landslips to remind you that this is an active landscape. Indeed at one point we heard a noise and looked up and a large boulder was rolling down a patch of snow leaving a firm trail, it was a heavy one.

Porridge corrie

An Garbe Choire

The area of the one of the great corries, An Garbe Choire (The rough corrie) and spectacularly rough it is, still quite a bit of snow around. ‘Porridge’ corrie is equally impressive. Some cattle fell from the top through a cornice and smashed up quite a bit hence the name.

The watershed at this spot is where the falls come down off Braeriach and Macdui and is as impressive as the corrie. Although the Dee’s source starts on the Braeriach plateau many regard this as the start as it is also joined by the water from the Pools of Dee. A good spot to pour water over my head and refill. It was very humid but at times a strong chilling breeze blew into our backs, nice relief and better than blowing in your face.

Boulder field beckons

Then the boulder field(s) came into view. We chatted with the occasional walker(s) that we met before this and they all called the boulder field long and arduous. Our guide

George said it was 5 minutes. The reality was much nearer George's view as indeed there is a track which makes it easier, not easy, but with hindsight is probably easy to lose if coming from the north thus enduring a much longer and harder boulder field crossing. There are possibly 3 different sections of boulders but our first is the most awkward if that track is missed.

There are 3 or 4 Pools of Dee, some vibrant green, a contrast to the stony slopes and a beautiful spot to take another short break.

Lurchers gully now showing impressively to the right in distance. I had in my mind this was much closer to the finish, walk ending soon, no chance.

Lurchers Gully

Still 3 hours to go but now downhill all the way

Then we reached the highest point of the Lairig with views of Aviemore beyond. The views forward and back, superb. Checked the GPS and we have covered exactly 20km. It might be all downhill from here but it is still at least another 10km, more as it turned out. Another 3 hours of walking.

It was a weird day as I tripped twice on the descent from here, nothing hurt other than pride. Tiredness, lack of concentration I don't know but it happened.

As it turned out it was 3 hours from that cairn and although the Caledonian pine Forrest is unique and grand viewing, particularly on the higher descent, the truth is that we just wanted the walk over. The chatter had reduced, a good pace was being kept. The Cairngorm Club footbridge was a welcome sight, finally getting there.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

No doubt that this was an incredible day out with outstanding views and exceeded my expectations. But it was also a very demanding long walk, very hard on the feet, testing my physical and mental capacity.

Ambition achieved, glad I did it but a repeat, I don't think so, at least not in the short term.

Ascent: 811m

Distance: 32.9km

Time: 10.21

Wildlife: Meadow pipit; Willow warbler; Common Sandpiper; Ring Ouzel (heard); Cuckoo (heard)

Not the full range just the singular.....Cairn Gorm

Hill: Cairn Gorm

Type: Munro

Height: 1245m

On a family break but given some free time, at least enough for a quick morning outing. Fog scuppered this on previous days but the forecast was better for today, at least some views predicted.

This is probably one of the best known Munro names even if its ascent is less than inspiring. However, it does stand at an impressive 6th in the height table. I would have liked to have included Ben MacDui to make it a proper walk but time was not going to allow that.

I opted for easier start from the Sugar Bowl car park where the funicular is out of action and requiring an enormous amount of tax payer money to repair it, someone is laughing all the way to the bank. It is a proper scandal.

After finding my way around the building site the initial section certainly got the body going, it was a steep but well constructed path.

Cloud lifting view back to car park

Short and sharp but not long before I entered the clouds, so much for Met Office forecast of being clear of cloud by this time. I did not emerge from them until almost at the Ptarmigan. After that it was blue sky with clouds clinging to the corries great views and some heat.

Tourist track and my descent

I took the Marquis Well route, contouring the hill, which opened up some more tops peaking through the clouds. On a clearer day far ranging views.

It doesn't show but Ben Hope was poking out

Good indicator of where cloud level peaked

From the summit Aviemore was still under cloud but looking further afield some peaks sticking their tops out to the north. One very isolated peak, much internal debate, surely can only be Ben Hope.

A good 10 minutes taking it all in. A couple of guys in dungarees with hard hats appeared, I thought they were going to the mast. Nope they were funicular workers who wanted to see the top, wonder if they were being paid our money for that? 

Tourist track

Aviemore coming into view

I decided to return via the tourist path and thankfully the clouds disappeared fairly quickly over a 10 minute spell to give me something to look at. Loch Morlich and Aviemore prominent.

A short outing but it got the legs and lungs going again. Back down in time for a short afternoon ramble hopefully followed up with coffee & cake with the family, bonus points all round.

Ascent: 753m

Distance: 7.51km

Time: 2.47

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit,

Bynack More a gentle Munro

Hill: Bynack More
Category: Munro
Height: 1090m

The weather improved enough for us to be optimistic that our high level walk could take place today after yesterdays disappointment. However, the Met office predicted potential 40 mph gusts and wind-chill factor of minus 5 on the summit, fun ahead. Ayr & Districts trip to Aviemore was the outing.
Grey skies and strong winds when we got underway from the Alt Mor car park.
A walk through the pines to meet up with the Glenmore Lodge track with the bonus of a good close sighting of a red squirrel.

Is that helicopter for us?

A sudden loud noise above as the rescue helicopter came flying up the track, not looking for us we hoped.

The colour was better viewed from other angles

The famous Green Lochan was reached and distinctly green coloured was the water but only from certain angles.

Start of Lairig an Laoigh track

The beauty of this rugged countryside starts to unfold as we turn right and head up the track following the route of the Lairig an Laoigh.

Bynack More just in sight from coffee stop

Food break taken and the sight of Bynack More on the left as we look up the track winding its way up the hill with our target peaking through, what a sight.
The climbing gradient is gentle for a Munro but the wind is blustery and letting us know what is potentially waiting for us.
Making good time we reach the plateau with very strong winds at times but grey skies ahead but blue sky back towards the north, which will win out?

Bynack More from plateau

When we take the right turn the majestic top of Bynack More is in our sight, just one steep section left.
As we ascend the narrow track the wind tries its best to knock us over, hands on at times we make our way upwards.

The steep final climb

We kept to the lee side to miss the worst of the winds and then hit the boulder top where avoiding the gusts trying to knock us off our feet was the first priority.

Summit looking north

Finally the cairn is reached and despite the greyness the views are extensive and superb. Cairngorm top itself, the tors of Ben Avon and the views over the Moray countryside.

Lunch looking over the marshy plains

With the strong wind the priority was to get off the top to find a sheltered spot for lunch allowing us to take in the panorama of the Cairngorm plateau, majestic. However after only a few minutes of gloves off my fingers were stinging, yip early September and it is freezing cold.

Good view of the shepherds hill on descent

The return was by the same route with the temperature rising as we descended, taps off!!
An excellent walk in super company another super walking day.

Wildlife: Red squirrel; Meadow pipit; Stonechat; a skein of geese (no idea which type).
Time: 6.37
Ascent: 2708ft (m)
Distance: 14.19m (km)

Geal Charn from Dorback

Hill: Geal Charn Cairngorms
Category: Corbett
Height: 821m

Side view of summit area

After yesterday's tourist hill I wanted isolation and I got it. A small stop in Nethy Bridge to check the map, yes I had overshot by a little bit and missed the turn. Back on the right road and 8 miles later at the parking area just before Dorback Lodge. There is a sign indicating no parking, a turning area, it is very big, but being a good boy I parked on a nearby dirt area, room for 1 car. As I got my boots on an estate jeep came flying up, zoomed round the turning area and sped back down the road. Was he checking if I had parked in the no go zone?
I followed the WH route, anti clockwise, so no route map posted.

No water hazard today

Through the gate on the right and get a good view of the hill and the open moorland terrain ahead, no German tourists here today I suspect.
I crossed the first water hazard, the Dorback burn, no danger today although the water course shows how high and wide it can get.
There is a faint track to the ruined farm, Upper Dell, on which I was bombed by black headed gulls whose nests must be close by.
Now heading out over the moor but there is a good track to follow, passing the small hut and the lochan before crossing another burn, again just a step over. You have lost any height gained but continue on the path for a short while.

Turn right here

A small stack of stones on your right is the point to go onto the moor proper. There is a faint track on and off to give some guidance. In fairness the going was a lot easier than I anticipated but it is a mixture of grass and heather with boggy areas. Plenty of grouse springing today, all at the last minute to get the heart rate even higher.

1st cairn

My final route up to the first cairn, not the top, was probably a dried water course but still easier to walk on than the moor.
The views are now opening up with Meall a’Bhuachaille the first to show. Then Cairngorm covered in cloud but Bynack More is clear. 

Looking to Cairngorms

Good going now as the posts of an old fence line are a guide to the top, the cairn appearing over the crest and then the summit is reached, 1 hour 40m. 

Ben Avon

I am really glad that I did this as the views are once again superb. A truly remote hill, a real feeling of isolation and not another person seen apart from the parking area. This is another stand alone hill so a full panorama, due south the tors of Ben Avon are impressive. Yesterdays hill, Ben Rinnes is cloud free. Such panoramic views are what it is all about.

Thunder clouds coming my way

I was enjoying the view as the silence and solitude which was rudely broken when claps of thunder, very loud indeed, came from that Cairngorm stuff. The clouds had spread and were heading my way so off the hill I went.

Scarred track can be seen via rough terrain

My descent headed initially along the ridge and then veered left heading down towards the huge scar of the estate track. There is no correct route, pathless moorland, steeper than the ascent and wetter, this side holding moisture from recent rain. Twisted an ankle in a deep hole so care taken. Still rough moorland. Some red deer hinds scarper, must have heard me curse.
Near the bottom an estate ATV marks takes you to the track past the grouse butts, a dead/shot hare lying here. 

Sandy past

Now the track back which did seem like a long trudge. Although interestingly geology at one land side the sandy terrain is so evident, a reminder of our islands attachment to Africa many moons ago. More sand than in the bunkers of my golf course.
Some of the buildings near the lodge are occupied although sadly the main lodge is still a ruin. 

Grouse beater

Finally, I did have a laugh at the ‘grouse beater’ outside the lodge.
For the views and solitude this was well worth it.
Wildlife: Grouse, pheasant, golden plover, raven, red deer, kestrel with young.

Time: 3.24
Ascent: 546m
Distance: 13.6km

A winters walk in Rothiemurchus forest

After the adventures of the last couple of days I had a sub 2000 in mind to have an easy hill walk but with all the snowfall over the last few days and still continuing the journey via the minor untreated roads to it were a no-go.

Hi Range chalet

As the snow was still falling this morning it was the perfect morning for a forest stroll. When I left the motel the colours of the lodges against the blue skies and the snow, picture perfect.

Snowy railway line

Just down from the motel I crossed the main railway line and then the River Spey which was barely flowing. The surroundings were monochrome except one flash of coloured tree which I think is a beech.

Calm River Spey with a flash of colour

No pavements cleared here so it was deep walking and alternating jumping over to the road for easy walking but then jumping back when a car appeared. The snow ploughs had piled up the road verges with deep drifts so getting good exercise. Interesting to note from the electronic sign that the ski road was going to be open today from 9.30, hope it stays that way.
Just after the Rothiemurchus centre I crossed the road and headed up the minor road towards Loch an Eilein.

Heavy snow track

Perfect nobody else around and a tranquil walk ensued. Deep snow drifts and every bush and tree clad in their snow coats. There was the constant noise of falling lumps of snow. One large drop hit my head, I wonder if a squirrel brushed it from the tree.

Cold bedroom

I came across this cottage which appeared deserted, possibly a rental or holiday home. Looking at the bedroom window with the icicles I suspect that would be one cold room to sleep in.

Ponies

Further on a large fence and gate, last time I was here it was full of coos but today it was ponies, thankfully some with their coats on. They all came to say hello but sadly I had no offerings for them.
A couple of runners appeared, no youngsters good on them, we chatted for a few minutes, they were from the Lake District.

Ord Ban

Round the next bend I spot some red deer hinds grazing in the snow over towards the hill of Ord Ban, wild or farmed? 

Where's my pals

When I reach the loch it is snowing heavily but I spend time to take in the views, despite the winter scape there is the odd flash of colour to deflect your eye from the white and grey. I speak to some elderly ladies who are hoping to ski tomorrow, go on yourselves.

Loch an Eilein

I’m hungry and head back to the Rothiemurchus café for lunch. I hear a noise and a cyclist goes past on one of the fashionable fat bikes. I suppose these conditions are ideal but I still think it would be hard work with those big tyres driving them through the snow.

Fat bike cyclist

Arrived at the café to find it is closed for refurbishment, stomach grumbles, so tramp on another mile or so into Aviemore for a late lunch.
A superb low level winters walk that I really enjoyed, great to be out enjoying it.

Dig out time

Once again I have to work off lunch by digging out the car, there sure has been plenty of snow fallen in these parts over the last couple of days.
Distance: 5.91 miles
Time active: 2.42
Ascent: 311ft