River Ayr Way Muirkirk - Sorn

Typical River Ayr scene

Having completed my Forth & Clyde canal walk last week it gave me the incentive to complete the other long distance walks that I have semi completed. The easiest geographical one and today’s walk is the River Ayr Way. 
Today I have to rely on public transport and as such I cannot find transport from Muirkirk to Glenbuck so I am only going with Muirkirk to Sorn today and return to complete Glenbuck to Muirkirk tomorrow.
Three bus journeys gets me from Barassie to Muirkirk, an experience in itself and that's before I even start my walk.

I have no doubts that this is the most scenic section of the river walk but I am glad that I did it on a warm spring day and not a wild winter version.
A stop at the local shop for my refreshments then a walk out to Kames to start it proper. A brief chat with a couple of locals confirms that the route should be ok for livestock ie cattle. The skies are blue but there is still an edge to the easterly wind so light jacket kept on.
The track is good walking and simple to follow for the full walk. Quite soon it feels encouragingly remote but only after walking past the impressive go kart circuit and the more rustic golf course. There is a historic feeling to be walking on the MacAdams experimental tarmac surface.

Tibbies brig

Plenty of sheep around, as all day, but quickly the rugged moorland becomes picturesque, Tibbie’s Brig with its seating, a lovely spot.
Following the old railway track through the light woods I disturb at close order a red grouse, a roe deer and a cock pheasant, all within 5 minutes, now this is a country walk.

When you reach the small iron fenced martyrs grave there is also a board, please read the history. Apt that this spot also returns to the River Ayr which this walk is all about. A very pleasant mile or so of twisting & turning riverwalk, calming water one minute, riffles the next, eroded banking showing what can happen when the river rises. Wildlife in this short section included mallard, grey heron, stoat, roe deer, 11 ducklings scampering into the tree lined embankment, flying across the water like pond skaters. Never saw the parent, hung about for a snap but they were more patient than me and never reappeared.

Opencast plantation

Now there is a reminder of current industry practices, a vast opencast site which is still operational. A huge quarry has been water filled but at least the surrounding area is under plantation to hide it from view.

I crossed the A70 and followed the river to the Airds Moss bridge. You now have a real moorland feel and because it is a relatively low ground there is also a big sky feel. On the exposed landscape the easterly wind is felt but at least it is mainly behind me. New birds: lapwing; stonechat; curlew; meadow pipit (I think one looked different enough to be a tree pipit); oystercatcher.
This is not only an RSPB bird sanctuary but has deep Covenanter history as well as local Muirkirk history. 

The barren moor/bog land is being criss crossed by ravens and crows trying to identify the nests of the breeding birds, a buzzard also makes an experience.
In terms of local history I come across the memorial to the farmer and poet John Lapraik, friend of Rabbie, in the same fenced off field are these Canada geese, surprised to see the geese still around, maybe fully fledged immigrants.
After a couple of miles of following the river the track moves away and rises up to cross more moorland. The remainder of the walk continues this theme of moving away from and returning to the river. Of course most of diversion means climbing but the views remain worthwhile.

Just after leaving the Aird moss area I was reflecting that this landscape was perfect for the Cuckoo, so numerous a couple of days ago on Arran, but so silent here. Then, no kidding, within 10 seconds one started calling, is that spooky or what?

Looking bag Cairn Table in distance

For long periods there is minimal sound apart from the river and the wildlife so just perfect to chill and enjoy a wild walk. In the distance an occasional car is sighted. The moorland is being left behind to return to more traditional woodland but not before isolated trees are clinging to the steep slopes.

Clinging for life

As I approach Sorn there are more pastures and more farmland workings but really you don’t know that you are approaching Sorn until you see the Sorn Estates private fishing notices and then when you leave the wood and join the main road, there you are, the village of Sorn.

Almost at Sorn

For some reason it felt like a longer walk than reality, maybe just tired legs on a sunny day. Very, very different from the temperature when I left Sorn on this journey earlier this year.
Walk distance 12.91 miles which took me 4.52 hours. 216 metres of ascent.
Pity Sorn Inn was closed for the afternoon so no finishing pint!!

River Ayr Way Glenbuck - Muirkirk

Back again to complete the walk. With my good lady around we drove to Glenbuck where she would walk with me for a bit then drive on and meet me at Muirkirk.
Yesterday using public transport it was about 2 and a half hours from leaving home to starting the walk, today’s drive to the same location just under 30 minutes.

As always for me finding the exact start seems to be problematic. We were looking for the signposted lane, not evident driving from Muirkirk!! We drove past the loch, turned back and went up the first right turn, spotted the waymarker and reached the small parking area.
A few minutes taking photos and studying the river Ayr board then the short walk to spend some time at the impressive memorial to Bill Shankly. For people of my generation memories of this great character remain strong.

Almost at the road where we turned in and the track between the hedge and fields is evident. 
A short stroll and you cross the road to now mainly walk the old railway line to Muirkirk. 

In truth there is not a lot to comment on this section. The walk is mainly close to the road absolutely flat, you can see everything ahead. The terrain is open moorland, sheep everywhere. On your right there are good views of Cairn Table, its 2 prominent cairns and its outlying hills. 
It is also interesting to see how small and narrow the River Ayr is near its source but the worn away embankments suggests it can surge fast and high even up here.

On your right is another huge opencast mine/quarry which does not make for very attractive viewing. Is it a sign of the isolation or relative low wealth of this area that they make no attempt to hide these workings, just scarred blots on the landscape.

No hiding the mining

It is worth taking some time to think what this would have looked like a century ago, lead mines, coal mines, the tarmac experiments, railways, a landscape of noise and smoke, very different.

Mrs B headed back and I walked on to my only potential issue of the day. An ex farmer had told me yesterday that that the farmer had been authorised to graze a small group of tups on the walkway but that this exemption had expired and it should be clear. You guessed it there they were all lying across the narrow path. My sage said that with the breeding season over their testosterone levels should be low but never turn your back on them and you can't outrun them. Great. As I closed in one by one they rose, these rams were big headed, big horned, powerful beasts and could no doubt do damage. Luckily they were all prepared to move a little, I had to turn my back on them as they were spread out but no charges, whew. No stopping to take photos.

Muirkirk ahead

I entered a small wood near Muirkirk where I met a fellow who told me he was a conservation officer for the River Ayr Walk and had a complaint yesterday about tups on the path. Well, well, my sage from yesterday I wonder? He wanted to see them for himself before going to the farmer.
Going through the woods I heard my only cuckoo of the day. Mrs will be jealous that she wasn’t here.
A bit of twisting and turning and the walk arrives at Kames, a short walk to end both the day and my River Ayr adventure. The good lady and I then continued to Tibbie’s brig for our windy picnic.
Distance 4.47, a 90 minute stroll with minimal ascent.

River Ayr Way Sorn - Stair

River Ayr Sorn

Happy New Year and the first major ramble of 2017 that merits a post.
There is no such thing as a bad walk. There are circumstances that might affect the walk but being outdoors is king. I know you can sense a BUT. Today's walk was a good one, a lovely crisp winters day, great scenery, some wildlife, a nice pint at the end, BUT the walk title is a bit of a misnomer. The long distance path is called the River Ayr Way, so you might think it does just that BUT as mentioned in my Stair-Ayr blog it digresses from the river for nearly half the walk. Still, I really enjoyed it as you will read AND I encourage you to do this, or at least the river sections.
I had two travel options, I could have got public transport but that would have involved 3 buses, would have taken 2 and a half hours hours, and with a tight turnaround at each stage it was not worth the risk of a traffic delay, missed bus, no walk. So onto my second option, Mrs B got up early and drove me to Sorn. Only 35 minutes and winter daylight time saved.

Sorn Bridge, Kirk, Graveyard

The car was showing -2 degrees at Sorn it was a cracking winters day. The light was magnificent,so good I took a snap upriver. I began the walk in the 'Main' street, probably called something else and walked west and crossed the old single track bridge across the River Ayr. The first 4 miles or so of river walk are quite something. The bridge (around 400 years old) stands opposite Sorn Kirk and its ancient graveyard, with some very interesting and old headstones if you have time to look.

A good track

Up the hill and quickly off road with good views of Sorn castle and another large marquee in its grounds, more weddings? Quickly thereafter the path descends to the river where you follow a good path to Catrine. It has been a cold night as you can see from the icicles in the branches just above the river.

Blurred icicles

At this time of the day the sense of isolation and tranquility is paramount. Only the sound of running water, birds calling in the trees and top notch unspoilt scenery, this is what it is all about.

Tranquil River Ayr

About 2 miles on you reach Catrine with the old industrial mill water driving weirs and holding ponds plus the newly constructed salmon ladder, great to see.
You depart from the river and aim to find the town square, it doesn't quite meet my expectations of a square to me, but, I ask a local and the burn crossing at 'Bridge St' is just ahead of me. Turn right and along the river we go, next destination, the new A76 Howford road bridge. Catrine is the last stop for food and drinks unless you want a longer detour to Mauchline later on. I get a brief sighting of a grey wagtail happily making its way along the opposite bank.

Salmon pass Catrine

Walk under the A76 bridge avoid the more obvious left track and go down towards the river to cross the Old Howford Bridge (built 1750 wow getting on for 300 years, solid construction) and head up the track. Sadly, not for the only time on this walk, fly tippers have dumped their domestic rubbish at the trackside, scum.
A left turn across a small field leads you into a ravine with magnificent compressed rock formations that make you think about the forces of nature that created these layers. I read that there are prehistoric cup and ring marks as well as modern graffiti. I think I see some possible examples but really an expert eye is required.

Rock layers

Now you have the equally magnificent, of the modern variety, Ballochmyle Railway viaduct (a train went over so still in use), which has as its claim to fame the longest masonry railway arch in the UK. The path is still in good condition but going up and down regularly so stretching the leg muscles.

Ballochmyle Viaduct

Enjoy the sounds of the running water as shortly the walk now leaves the river and for almost 4 miles is an inland countryside stroll. In parts it is public tarmac road, no pavements, take care particularly near Failford. It is also miles of fenced pathway, meaning direction is no issue and no livestock either is disturbed by you or vice versa. Some people complain about this herding but I will go for it as it keeps you safe. But why could it not be incorporated on the riverside that the landowners won't let you walk. I can only imagine it is fishing rights but I could be wrong. However, it does not keep you safe from growling angry dogs running free and well away from owner, at times some sort of spray as a safeguard would be welcome, probably illegal, and not even a sorry from the owners.

Herded in cannot get lost

At the hamlet of Failford I fancied a pint and a sandwich but the Inn was closed. Back to the emergency rations. A left turn takes you down into a stretch, known as the Ayr Gorge Woodland and a stunning section it is. It is managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust and a good job they are doing. Good walking and informative information boards. The river is cut into the gorge which has colourful sandstone rock formations, a reminder that Scotland was once attached to Africa, our geology is based on sand and this is a spectacular reminder.

Sandstone gorge Failford

A little later I was aware of my backside feeling colder than usual. Investigation found a very wet rucksack bottom, I had put my water bottle in the rucksack upside down, obviously with the top not sealed, a wet rucksack and lower jacket. Thankfully not far to go as nothing left to drink.
The gorge has several sets of steps both giving regular ascending and descending, a bit of breathing blowing, not such a good fitness sign. There are super views at times of the river meandering way down below when walking these upper sections.
A final climb breaks you out of the woods and back into open countryside. Then back down to the river for a short stretch until you reach the detour (a stile leading to a short field crossing) at Daldorch farm. Apparently a couple of landslips further on near Stair have rendered this river section impassable. Now it is about 3/4 of a mile away from the river on tarmac and a final section on a twisty busy road so take care.

Detour at farm ahead

Finally I called the good lady for my lift. I deliberately left this until late on so that I could have a pint of real ale in the impressive Stair Inn, well I had earned it.
12.52 miles in total taking 4 and a half hours with just over 1000 ft of climbing. A fine walk on a fine day in beautiful Ayrshire countryside the vast majority never see. Enjoy.

River Ayr Way Stair - Ayr

This was to be my last outing for 2016, desperately needed to shake off the Xmas inertia and too much food and drink. I didn't want to travel too far so opted for the first leg of this long distance route, a new one for me. The River Ayr walk breaks down nicely into 3 similar stretches.
Today I began my walk at Stair, a lift required as the nearest public transport bus stop at least 2 miles away and headed in the direction of the sea. It is a walk that follows the river about 2/3rds of the way and disappointingly off river for about a third, presumably landowner difficulties the reason for leaving the confines of the river. 

River Ayr near Stair

With the prospects of a good weather forecast to keep me happy I left the hamlet of Stair and headed through a deserted farm track and soon along the riverbank. The first couple of miles is a straightforward and pleasant countryside river walk. A carpet of dead and decaying leaves gives for soft walking. 

The river alternating between fast and calm water with mergansers and dippers for company. On the right, up in the woods, you get sight of Enterkine house hotel, with a large marquee erected, wedding time I presume.
You now catch sight of the very impressive Enterkine rail viaduct built in 1872. It was originally built to transport coal from the pits as well as the Ayr to Cumnock passenger trains, and I believe an occasional goods train still crosses, but I have never seen one. Once under the viaduct the next bridge, Gadgirth, is in sight ( there are quite a few bridges on this walk). Across the water it looks like someone is doing work in the wood, I noticed it was up for sale, a wooden structure has been started, fisherman's stuff maybe?

Enterkine Viaduct

Cross the road at the bridge and keeping to the same bank follow the river towards Annbank. This is a tranquil stretch but there a warning sign at the bridge indicating a dangerous path ahead! It is slightly open flanked at times, eroded and muddy in patches but not sure why dangerous. I presume someone has had an accident and Health & Safety got involved.
Now upon reaching Annbank, a mining village, you take the first diversion from the river. The route I am using (via Walk Highlands) leads through the village and on the very outskirts there should have been a sharp turn left heading back to the river at an old nursery. I missed this (maybe it has gone) and walked the road for half a mile before rejoining at the next bridge. I had not brought an OS map just using my notes, wrong again. 4g did work but did not show this old mill and showed me joining the river if I kept walking. In Annbank there is a small store if you want to buy some provisions, indeed the last one until Ayr.

1st fallen tree

Go over the Tarholm bridge and you have now crossed to the other bank. The next warning sign I encounter is a 'no access to anyone due to giant hogweed'. I am not turning back so on I go and soon hit the boggiest, gloopiest, muddiest section with no option but to get through it. A couple of fallen trees make it even more interesting. Glad I had put on my gaiters.

Wallace's seat

I am rather warm now, indeed sweating, so my middle layer goes in the rucksack. A mixture of warmer weather and effort. I stop at Wallace's view which is okay but seen better. An MTBiker comes towards me, the only person I have seen so far. Good luck to him with that stuff up ahead.
The track rises above the river, pleasant if routine forestry stuff. I can see Auchincruive estate buildings on the other bank. The guide indicates crossing a stile and go across a field but I choose to head down via the river. On a good low river day you can follow this lower track to Oswald bridge but it could be dangerous in high running water. To stay true to my guide I rejoined the field and wished I had not. It was clear horses or cattle roamed here (none visible but recent droppings were in evidence), their hooves creating many deep holes in the grass, not great walking. Plus, the upper plank of the stile crossing has been removed making for a very awkward clamber over a high barbed wire fence. I am sure a few folk would not make this.

Green winter crop.

After crossing Oswald Bridge the next couple of miles takes you well away from the river, passing the college then following a straight cycle route to the A77. It is initially muddy but soon becomes tarmac. This is small homestead land, plenty of horses, kennels etc. But, I did get a close view of a yellowhammer, a rare sight to me these days.

Underpass at A77

At the A77 go down under the road and the river is followed once again. This is now the outskirts of Ayr so expect plenty of dog walkers and just a lot more people. Cross the new bridge at Craigie campus and follow this bank into the historic town of Ayr. Quite a few more bridges on this stretch but don't cross until the very last one which is the end of the walk. This now gives you views of the open sea directly ahead as well as newish residential properties. A short walk down either bank takes you to the docks if you take northern bank or the beach area if you take the southerly one towards the newish flats, Head into the town proper for food, drink or transport homewards.

Not a great day for wildlife but the sightings included: buzzards, heron, mergansers, goosanders, mallards, woodpecker, and all the common woodland birds and of course the yellowhammer.

I enjoyed the walk, a fine day out, just over 4 hours of effort and 11.5 miles. The other two stretches will be completed next month.
It has been a good outdoor year so have a good one and here's to 2017's rambles.

Postscript:

I was disappointed at missing the turn at Annbank so I returned today to complete the walk and it was a good decision. The stretch I missed was just over a mile and a half almost wholly alongside the river. The water is an anglers dream with alternating calm pools and running water. This enhanced the environment as the tranquil surroundings are either calm with only birdsong to break the silence or the roar of fast running water even when the drops are minimal.

At one point I came across this tree covered in Xmas baubles. No idea what the reason for these is.

Little Egret

Then further on I caught sight of a white bird in the river. Got the binos out and I was both delighted and stunned to have seen this Little Egret. I have seen these abroad but to my fading memory not in Scotland, a great surprise. I only got a brief camera shot at distance so apologies for the quality.
So really glad I made the effort, one of the best stretches of the walk. An extra 1.5 miles.