River Ayr Way Muirkirk - Sorn

Typical River Ayr scene

Having completed my Forth & Clyde canal walk last week it gave me the incentive to complete the other long distance walks that I have semi completed. The easiest geographical one and today’s walk is the River Ayr Way. 
Today I have to rely on public transport and as such I cannot find transport from Muirkirk to Glenbuck so I am only going with Muirkirk to Sorn today and return to complete Glenbuck to Muirkirk tomorrow.
Three bus journeys gets me from Barassie to Muirkirk, an experience in itself and that's before I even start my walk.

I have no doubts that this is the most scenic section of the river walk but I am glad that I did it on a warm spring day and not a wild winter version.
A stop at the local shop for my refreshments then a walk out to Kames to start it proper. A brief chat with a couple of locals confirms that the route should be ok for livestock ie cattle. The skies are blue but there is still an edge to the easterly wind so light jacket kept on.
The track is good walking and simple to follow for the full walk. Quite soon it feels encouragingly remote but only after walking past the impressive go kart circuit and the more rustic golf course. There is a historic feeling to be walking on the MacAdams experimental tarmac surface.

Tibbies brig

Plenty of sheep around, as all day, but quickly the rugged moorland becomes picturesque, Tibbie’s Brig with its seating, a lovely spot.
Following the old railway track through the light woods I disturb at close order a red grouse, a roe deer and a cock pheasant, all within 5 minutes, now this is a country walk.

When you reach the small iron fenced martyrs grave there is also a board, please read the history. Apt that this spot also returns to the River Ayr which this walk is all about. A very pleasant mile or so of twisting & turning riverwalk, calming water one minute, riffles the next, eroded banking showing what can happen when the river rises. Wildlife in this short section included mallard, grey heron, stoat, roe deer, 11 ducklings scampering into the tree lined embankment, flying across the water like pond skaters. Never saw the parent, hung about for a snap but they were more patient than me and never reappeared.

Opencast plantation

Now there is a reminder of current industry practices, a vast opencast site which is still operational. A huge quarry has been water filled but at least the surrounding area is under plantation to hide it from view.

I crossed the A70 and followed the river to the Airds Moss bridge. You now have a real moorland feel and because it is a relatively low ground there is also a big sky feel. On the exposed landscape the easterly wind is felt but at least it is mainly behind me. New birds: lapwing; stonechat; curlew; meadow pipit (I think one looked different enough to be a tree pipit); oystercatcher.
This is not only an RSPB bird sanctuary but has deep Covenanter history as well as local Muirkirk history. 

The barren moor/bog land is being criss crossed by ravens and crows trying to identify the nests of the breeding birds, a buzzard also makes an experience.
In terms of local history I come across the memorial to the farmer and poet John Lapraik, friend of Rabbie, in the same fenced off field are these Canada geese, surprised to see the geese still around, maybe fully fledged immigrants.
After a couple of miles of following the river the track moves away and rises up to cross more moorland. The remainder of the walk continues this theme of moving away from and returning to the river. Of course most of diversion means climbing but the views remain worthwhile.

Just after leaving the Aird moss area I was reflecting that this landscape was perfect for the Cuckoo, so numerous a couple of days ago on Arran, but so silent here. Then, no kidding, within 10 seconds one started calling, is that spooky or what?

Looking bag Cairn Table in distance

For long periods there is minimal sound apart from the river and the wildlife so just perfect to chill and enjoy a wild walk. In the distance an occasional car is sighted. The moorland is being left behind to return to more traditional woodland but not before isolated trees are clinging to the steep slopes.

Clinging for life

As I approach Sorn there are more pastures and more farmland workings but really you don’t know that you are approaching Sorn until you see the Sorn Estates private fishing notices and then when you leave the wood and join the main road, there you are, the village of Sorn.

Almost at Sorn

For some reason it felt like a longer walk than reality, maybe just tired legs on a sunny day. Very, very different from the temperature when I left Sorn on this journey earlier this year.
Walk distance 12.91 miles which took me 4.52 hours. 216 metres of ascent.
Pity Sorn Inn was closed for the afternoon so no finishing pint!!

River Ayr Way Sorn - Stair

River Ayr Sorn

Happy New Year and the first major ramble of 2017 that merits a post.
There is no such thing as a bad walk. There are circumstances that might affect the walk but being outdoors is king. I know you can sense a BUT. Today's walk was a good one, a lovely crisp winters day, great scenery, some wildlife, a nice pint at the end, BUT the walk title is a bit of a misnomer. The long distance path is called the River Ayr Way, so you might think it does just that BUT as mentioned in my Stair-Ayr blog it digresses from the river for nearly half the walk. Still, I really enjoyed it as you will read AND I encourage you to do this, or at least the river sections.
I had two travel options, I could have got public transport but that would have involved 3 buses, would have taken 2 and a half hours hours, and with a tight turnaround at each stage it was not worth the risk of a traffic delay, missed bus, no walk. So onto my second option, Mrs B got up early and drove me to Sorn. Only 35 minutes and winter daylight time saved.

Sorn Bridge, Kirk, Graveyard

The car was showing -2 degrees at Sorn it was a cracking winters day. The light was magnificent,so good I took a snap upriver. I began the walk in the 'Main' street, probably called something else and walked west and crossed the old single track bridge across the River Ayr. The first 4 miles or so of river walk are quite something. The bridge (around 400 years old) stands opposite Sorn Kirk and its ancient graveyard, with some very interesting and old headstones if you have time to look.

A good track

Up the hill and quickly off road with good views of Sorn castle and another large marquee in its grounds, more weddings? Quickly thereafter the path descends to the river where you follow a good path to Catrine. It has been a cold night as you can see from the icicles in the branches just above the river.

Blurred icicles

At this time of the day the sense of isolation and tranquility is paramount. Only the sound of running water, birds calling in the trees and top notch unspoilt scenery, this is what it is all about.

Tranquil River Ayr

About 2 miles on you reach Catrine with the old industrial mill water driving weirs and holding ponds plus the newly constructed salmon ladder, great to see.
You depart from the river and aim to find the town square, it doesn't quite meet my expectations of a square to me, but, I ask a local and the burn crossing at 'Bridge St' is just ahead of me. Turn right and along the river we go, next destination, the new A76 Howford road bridge. Catrine is the last stop for food and drinks unless you want a longer detour to Mauchline later on. I get a brief sighting of a grey wagtail happily making its way along the opposite bank.

Salmon pass Catrine

Walk under the A76 bridge avoid the more obvious left track and go down towards the river to cross the Old Howford Bridge (built 1750 wow getting on for 300 years, solid construction) and head up the track. Sadly, not for the only time on this walk, fly tippers have dumped their domestic rubbish at the trackside, scum.
A left turn across a small field leads you into a ravine with magnificent compressed rock formations that make you think about the forces of nature that created these layers. I read that there are prehistoric cup and ring marks as well as modern graffiti. I think I see some possible examples but really an expert eye is required.

Rock layers

Now you have the equally magnificent, of the modern variety, Ballochmyle Railway viaduct (a train went over so still in use), which has as its claim to fame the longest masonry railway arch in the UK. The path is still in good condition but going up and down regularly so stretching the leg muscles.

Ballochmyle Viaduct

Enjoy the sounds of the running water as shortly the walk now leaves the river and for almost 4 miles is an inland countryside stroll. In parts it is public tarmac road, no pavements, take care particularly near Failford. It is also miles of fenced pathway, meaning direction is no issue and no livestock either is disturbed by you or vice versa. Some people complain about this herding but I will go for it as it keeps you safe. But why could it not be incorporated on the riverside that the landowners won't let you walk. I can only imagine it is fishing rights but I could be wrong. However, it does not keep you safe from growling angry dogs running free and well away from owner, at times some sort of spray as a safeguard would be welcome, probably illegal, and not even a sorry from the owners.

Herded in cannot get lost

At the hamlet of Failford I fancied a pint and a sandwich but the Inn was closed. Back to the emergency rations. A left turn takes you down into a stretch, known as the Ayr Gorge Woodland and a stunning section it is. It is managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust and a good job they are doing. Good walking and informative information boards. The river is cut into the gorge which has colourful sandstone rock formations, a reminder that Scotland was once attached to Africa, our geology is based on sand and this is a spectacular reminder.

Sandstone gorge Failford

A little later I was aware of my backside feeling colder than usual. Investigation found a very wet rucksack bottom, I had put my water bottle in the rucksack upside down, obviously with the top not sealed, a wet rucksack and lower jacket. Thankfully not far to go as nothing left to drink.
The gorge has several sets of steps both giving regular ascending and descending, a bit of breathing blowing, not such a good fitness sign. There are super views at times of the river meandering way down below when walking these upper sections.
A final climb breaks you out of the woods and back into open countryside. Then back down to the river for a short stretch until you reach the detour (a stile leading to a short field crossing) at Daldorch farm. Apparently a couple of landslips further on near Stair have rendered this river section impassable. Now it is about 3/4 of a mile away from the river on tarmac and a final section on a twisty busy road so take care.

Detour at farm ahead

Finally I called the good lady for my lift. I deliberately left this until late on so that I could have a pint of real ale in the impressive Stair Inn, well I had earned it.
12.52 miles in total taking 4 and a half hours with just over 1000 ft of climbing. A fine walk on a fine day in beautiful Ayrshire countryside the vast majority never see. Enjoy.