Hot and bothered on a scorching hot day....Beinn a Bheithir the mountain with 3 names

Hills: Sgorr Dhearg (Red Peak) (1024m), Sgorr Dhonuill (1001m), aka Beinn a'Bheithir
Type: Munros x 2

After yesterdays enjoyable walk in the sun, the forecast today was for another hot one. This is a tough walk at the best of times but with the added heat factor I was both looking forward to it and apprehensive, not without foundation as it turned out.
Beinn a'Bheithir is the mountain and dramatically named The Hill of the Thunderbolt. The mountain has two distinct peaks hence the double Munro status. 
This is an excellent ridge walk, once you get there, but it is from sea level with steep gradients throughout so you get to climb every metre of it.
We were a small group so we made the extremely wise decision to leave a couple of cars at the golf course thus reducing our final walk by 3-4km.

Grassy ascent, Sgorr Bhan to left, still more to climb after that

We started from the visitor centre in Ballachullish and headed to the school and then the grassy field that starts this route via the Schoolhouse Ridge. On the lower slopes there are no tracks, wander through a field, thankfully without its livestock and then the fun begins. Walkhighlands describes this section as 'tough and exhausting', throw in the heat and I have no issues with that description. Already the humidity was very high and I was sweating buckets, this was serious hard work and we had only begun.

Breather time, The Pap of Glencoe looking pointed and below us already

Every time I looked up there seemed to be a long way to go and when you looked back the views showed how high you had climbed and quickly.
Relief when we reached a fence where there should be a track of sorts. A slightly lowered section of wire suggested this was the crossing and we did indeed find a boggy series of steps which eventually became a stony path on a more gentle route but I was not feeling good at all which sadly continued all walk so a very tough day. A tummy upset before the walk didn't help and I am sure that on these initial stages I went into my red zone too quickly and just could not get the energy back on this unrelenting ascent.

Looking down the Schoolhouse ridge to Loch Leven. Looks high but another 200m of ascent to go!

From a plateau there are excellent views back down and time for a short rest. As we break an immature peregrine falcon glides across at eye level, stunning. 

Schoolhouse Ridge ahead, this green bit the only flat section of the ascent

But it is the ridge ahead that now takes the eye. This becomes an on off scree walk, rough on the feet, rocks sliding underfoot and never-ending. With relief a small cairn is reached but this is just Sgorr Bhan, a Munro top and tempered by the knowledge that the next ascending ridge is the climb to Sgorr Dhearg. 

Finally Sgorr Dhearg top ahead, track can be seen on the left

Some excellent views at times but not for long. Frustratingly there is a small descent before the seemingly long haul up to the ruined trig and a summit bagged. Second frustration was that the cloud had descended so we could not see the way ahead to Munro number two.
Another awkward stony descent, dropping almost 300 metres, did not do my morale much good.

Other side of Sgorr Dhearg, almost 300m descent

We stopped on the Bealach for lunch and it was honest decision time. Fatigue and fluids the consideration. Our plan A had been to continue up Dhonuill and then over another ridge to descend down a scree slope from there but that made it a much longer walk. Most of the group were also now concerned about fluids, both the amount we were losing and the quantity we had left. Added to that the fatigue factor, me right up there. So decision made to do Munro two and return to this point and head down from here knowing there was a burn alongside the track.

Sgurr Dhonuill ahead, of course it is the bit hidden in the cloud

Now, like most people we have had the odd bad day on the hills but my breathing was really struggling and my head had pressured with lots of echoing noises, really weird. That red zone deficit factor had kicked in. Initially I felt good again but about two thirds of the way up I thought I was going to have to abandon this ascent. I have never failed to get to the top of a hill but I feared this was going to be the one. However, even though I say it myself with real grit and determination I plodded on to the summit. 

That's the exposed scrambly bit to the top

The top from below is a proper cone, a pointed top, which looks daunting. It doesn't help that the path disappears and scrambling is required for a short section and at times the path is exposed. Strangely I felt better on the scramble than the plod. Once the top is reached it is surprisingly large open space and again for us the on off clouds had descended so yet another no summit view. Anyway, realised later I had been too knackered to take a snap. Two girls appeared with mini dogs having scrambled up the scree slopes we had originally planned to descend, they looked far too fresh, oh to be young!!
The heat and humidity was still oppressive and about to go up several notches as we descended into the glen. When we got to the cold water we had  longed for that was some of the pressure off. A very welcome hatful of ice cold water was poured over my head, initial shock but huge relief. The stuff in the bottle, delicious.
This descent is pretty boggy and heads to a deforested section which initially looks like big trouble. The track goes high, more climbing, them the unseen path meanders through the tree debris before entering the trees with the odd direction marker to stop you wandering about forest tracks for ever. Initially a welcome coolness in the trees but the humidity regained control, boy oh boy, I have never sweated so much on a walk. It would have been interesting to have been weighed before and after, a few kilos gone for sure.

The descent keeping high of the deforested zone for most of it.

A long wooded section and then a nice surprise as there were the cars sooner than expected.
Afterwards I read Cameron McNeish's route and he advocates coming up our descent then up one, down again and up the other, definitely an easier trip.
Yesterday I felt great and today I felt absolutely out of sorts for whatever reason. That was a hard, hard day. With reflection I will be proud of it but not right now.

Wildlife: Peregrine falcon; Meadow Pipit; Meadow Brown; Small White
Ascent: 1474m
Distance: 13.5km
Time: 7.25m

Would it be a pain in The Eastern Fannichs?

Hill: An Coileachan (923m); Meall Gorm (949m); Sgurr Mor (1110m); Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich (954m)
Type: Munros x 4
Height: n/a

After the two warm ups today was the big test. However, to go along with the tendon I had an upset stomach during the night and thought long and hard about cancelling but  bravado won over. Filled up on a small hotel brekkie and now as ready to go as I would ever be. Forecast very mixed with possible sunshine and possibly heavy showers. Whatever, a long day ahead, how prophetic that was to be.

From the start the hills look a long way away

By any standards this is a big day out but even when I prepared looking at it on the map etc I had not expected that we would be on the upper time plan. For our route we went against the norm and tackled these 4 Munros clockwise. Wise after the event, I was glad we did as I would categorise some of this round as brutal, going anti-clockwise would be even worse.

The notorious bridge

There is a very, very long walk in and out so be prepared. Our walk leader was using another persons route and explained at the start that those who had downloaded the Walkhighlands route on GPS we would not be following that so no unnecessary route comments. All well and good but sadly he made a mistake in heading for our 1st top that took us off direction and through some really rough terrain before we got back on track.

Munro number 1 An Coileachan, the highest point, still far away.

We had to cross a minor bridge which we found ok but then we followed the burn too long and ended up NW of a small lochan when we should have been east of Loch Gorm.

Loch Gorm

By the time we climbed the grassy slopes to Bealach Ban then up the scree slopes to summit 1, An Toileachan, I was feeling a bit bushed but delighted to now have a ridge walk rather than the moorland we had struggled with. Probably at least an hour plus behind schedule in getting to this top.
On the ridge the weather was a mixture of everything. Some sun, some very heavy showers but a constant very strong and bitterly cold north wind.

Munro 2, Meall Gorm, looking back down the Bealach Ban

It is also a ridge where there is a lot of stone scree to negotiate, really awkward walking, which at times played havoc with my tendon.
Without the strong winds and scree it was a reasonable walk to summit 2, Meall Gorm.

From Meall Gorm the ridge to Sgurr Mor

The highest peak of the round was right in front of us, Sgurr Mor at 1110m, a biggie. It looked it from here. A descent then a climb followed by a second steeper climb. 

Lung burning steep slope

On the second section my energy levels were way down and in terms of physical effort this was really tough. It didn't help that on the last section there was the heaviest rain and winds, driving in, it really felt almost winter. Some very steep crags near the path so care required particularly with these winds.

Looking back to Sgurr Mor from the stalkers path

Finally another ridge walk over to our last Munro, Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich. A stalkers path took us so far but this top is totally surrounded by shingle boulders.

Loch Broom from Munro 4 BLMF

As the saying goes 'they thought it was all over' but far from it. We could see the cars but they looked a million miles away. By now everyone just wanted this to end. The descent side was full on boulder scree and descending was torturously slow trying to find any grass areas. You would not want to be coming up this way through this stuff.

Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich  and its descent slopes, 

After clearing that there is a long walk across boggy moorland to negotiate before getting back to a track. The cars are still the best part of an hour from here.
The 5 westerly Fannichs are a greater walking height, 400m more of ascent but they are an easier round. This was brutal at times and I don't say that lightly and it was not just my opinion. A couple of weeks ago Beinn a Ghlo was about the same height of ascent but 4 hours quicker.
This was a very long day on the hills but that was expected. The terrain less so and progress was painfully slow at times.
Granted some of the views were undoubtedly stunning but I suspect that this was a once in a lifetime for me. Been there. done it, memories but no return.
My feet are sore, my tendon did well but is aching, the midgies are biting and the beer shop is now closed!

Wildlife: Ptarmigan; Red Grouse; Red deer hind: Meadow Pipit; Frog; Lizard
Ascent: 1530m
Distance: 26.4km
Time: 11.45

The big fitness test.....Beinn a'Ghlo

Walk: Beinn a’ Ghlo….Carn Liath: Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain; Carn nan Gabher

Type: Munro x 3

Height: 1239m

Well today was the big test for the Achilles the demanding full round of Beinn a’ Ghlo. I had been looking forward to this since it was cancelled last year.

Adam Watson , the ecologist and author described Beinn a’ Ghlo as one of the most beautiful and mysterious hills in Scotland. Not sure about the mysterious but I certainly go along with the beautiful part. The hill has 19 corries and it is said a rifle could be fired in any of them without being heard in another.

Obvious track up Carn Liath

A small group, social distancing if you can do such a thing on the hill set off. I had prepped them that I would decide after the 1^st Munro, Carn Liath, whether I would continue or descend by myself. Fair to say I was aware of it with every step so time would tell.

Plenty of cars already parked up early this morning, this was a busy place today.

A half hour walk in before we reached the wooden hut where the imposing landscape scarring track of Carn Liath is evident.
Initial problems my camera would not recognise the SD card, it did yesterday! Of course the spare is at the bottom of rucksack and it would not recognise it either so mobile phone pictures only today.

Even at the bottom levels they have been working on improving the track but it is on the slopes of Carn Liath where the work is evident, they have done a cracking job.

Looking down from Carn Liath track

The sky had got gloomier but it the major factor was the wind. Trying to put a jacket on about half way up was a major challenge in itself, body twisting and turning trying to find that second sleeve, what was it going to be like up top?

The track is great but care still required as easy to trip on the irregular stones that have been laid. Anyway an ascent of head down, plod on and take in the grand views. Before long the first summit is reached just after the cairn. Fabulous views particularly across Glen Tilt, easily one of my favourite glens.

View of Braigh (summit peaking out on right) from Carn Liath

Fitness wise I was feeling really good and the Achilles was no worse than when I started so decision made to head on.

Better view of ridge, Gabher hidden in cloud, not the hill on right that is it's spur.

The ridge ahead looks stunning as it meanders but the final and biggest Munro, Carn nan Gabher, looks a long way off and a lot higher.

Back the ridge to Carn Liath

Looking back to Carn Liath the ridge walk looks fantastic, one to remember.

The ridge meanders before descending to a bealach. Time for food as the next climb looks steep. A couple of runners pause briefly to chat to one of the group that they know, 4 hours is their target time, wow.

The reality for the next climb was that a good steady pace saw peak number two conquered. Really pleased with my hill fitness.

A steep grassy descent took us down to prepare for the final assault.

Now for number 3, Gabher

The weather had been coming and going but apart from one small shower we had escaped getting wet although the wind had not relented.

One of the 19 corries looking to the eastern Cairngorms

Another steady climb took us up to the summit plateau. The views are superb as you climb giving a good reason to take a breather and soak it all in. Walkers descending had all commented on how strong and chilling the wind was up there, great.

When you reach the first big cairn is this it, nope. Then the trig, nope. Yet another big cairn was further on, the top of Carn nan Gabher, an 1100+ Munro. This plateau was extremely rocky/stony and by far was the biggest test of my tendon. The walking was difficult, the stones moved, sore!

Very stony Carn nan Gabher summit

However the views were magnificent particularly of the eastern Cairngorms, no words or pictures can do this justice. Even The Lomond hills in Fife were clear.

Whilst the wind was fierce it was not as cold as indicated by the descenders.

In many ways the hard work had been done but this is a round that does not let you off easily. The cars are a long way away between 2-3 hours walking.

Boggy Glen, Carn Liath highest peak

The descent into the glen was straightforward but it did get very boggy at times before we crossed the burn onto a slightly better track which eventually became the restored track.

Before you jump for joy the height lays out the track ahead, surely that is not our route, of course it is.

The long walk out still an hour to go, looking back summit of Gabher is small peak behind the the spur on the right

Although it is an excellent track this was the hardest section for my tendon, the longer strides were obviously having an impact.

Still we got there and as you circular your first Munro of the day take stock on how good it was. One of the finest ridge walks in Scotland.

Processionary moth caterpillar, do not touch

A hard day but the company was excellent, lots of good chat and banter, brilliant views and a workout, exactly what a day on the hills should be.

A bit of pain and stiffness but hopefully an overnight rest and it will be good enough for the solo walk I have planned for tomorrow.

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Processionary moth caterpillar.

Distance: 23.2km

Ascent: 1615m

Time: 8.13

A wild day on An Stuc

Hill: An Stuc (The Peak)
Category: Munro
Height: 1118m

What a difference a day makes, yesterday was positively balmy on the river, plenty of midgies and of course no fish. Today the forecast was for heavy rain up top, which we encountered, but the main issue was the unexpected gale force winds, more of that later.
I had already intended to do this 3 Munro circuit as a solo outing but noticed one of the groups was also doing it so decided to go with them for the company, a mistake.
We were already late in starting as a pair who had confirmed they were coming did not show up and did not bother to tell anyone, needless hanging about.

Nice and calm at the start once off the road

We started from the Ben Lawers hotel, £5 quid parking charge but there are few other options, before walking the main road to the antler carving shop where the walk starts proper.
Head up the track to the farmyard then follow the track through the trees.
This was a muddy track which was a sign of things to come.

Out on the moor Sron Mhor ahead

Before long the trees are behind and the vista opens up. It became apparent one of our party was struggling so we changed plans from the normal anti clockwise route. The advantage of the clockwise route is that the ascent is long but very gradual taking you up to 700 metres to Lochan an Cat. 

We crossed burn but normal route is up Sron Mhor behind

We followed the Lawers burn initially on the north side until we reached the crossing where the footbridge should have been, nope gone. The rocks were very slippy but we got across without mishap. This would certainly be more interesting at a higher water level.

Path follows the burn

Well, now on the other side there is still a faint path but most of it is sphagnum moss, peat bogs and all sorts of traps to get you wet and cursing. 

One of the Hydro dams dotted about

Interesting the old hydro works dotted about, presumably replace by the main dam.

Lochan nan Cat almost into the clouds

Finally the Lochan is reached but progress has been slower than expected. This would be a beautiful spot in good weather with the slopes of the high mountains surrounding you. Today we are almost in the cloud level so no sightings of the tops.

Our ascent up the right side of the burn

We decided to take the direct route up the side of the burn to get to the Bealach Dubh. There is a narrow path on the right side of the burn  which is really just a steep section of eroded mud steps, hand holds on the grass a must and great care needed to not slip. This is not a spot to rush. We commented that we would not want to descend this not knowing we would be doing just that shortly.
Fully into the clouds and the temperature had dropped significantly but worse was the winds which increased from nothing to almost gale fore gusts within 100 metres of ascent. Even with my weight I was struggling to not get blown over. The wind was catching the rucksack and trying to turn me, not comfortable.
The elements were now too much for the slower person who was also feeling ill. She agreed to shelter with a companion whilst we bagged An Stuc. This Munro is the runt in this group but also the most exciting with dramatic slopes particularly on the other side heading to the next Munro. It was only confirmed a Munro back in 1997.
The rain was stinging our faces as we struggled up the track to the summit. This was the most extreme conditions that I have been in this year. 
At the summit we had a choice to split up or all go back and descend. It was frustrating as Munro number two, Meall Garbh, was so close but the descent off An Stuc was potentially dangerous particularly in this weather. We had completed over half of the distance but the head had to rule the heart and safety had to take priority.
So back down the hill, collected the other two and staggered to the very steep muddy descent. Our struggler found this very difficult with a few slides that almost took out her helpers.
Finally down at the Lochan, all safe, the world was calm again, no wind at all, not even a breeze, unbelievable. The storm was fully raging but contained within the clouds.

Follow the burn back

No wind but the predicted rain arrived to accompany us on the long trek back, light at first but persistent then chucking it down.
Some walkers were spotted on the top of Sron Mhor descending, I reckon they were ones I spoke to in the car park and had turned back opting out of An Stuc.
A disappointing outcome for the day but that is the Scottish weather for you. In that storm you certainly knew the feeling of living rather than existing. A day where the better judgement is to survive and get the other two another day. 
Next time a clear weather good viewing day for sure!!

Wildlife: Raven
Time: 6.18
Ascent: 3281ft 
Distance: 18.2km