Ayrshire Coastal Path Glenapp - Ballantrae

Now that the northern stretch has been completed it is time to tick off the remaining southern legs. I had originally planned to do this on Wednesday when, as it turned out, the clear air day would have been perfect but I had to delay a couple of days and didn't think the views would be as good. On the journey down the clouds were ominous but thankfully the forecast came good and it brightened up. I was using the bus today so I had accepted that I could only do the shortish 1st leg in the time I had available. It turned out that I then had another decision to make as on the journey I got a call telling me I was baby sitting that night and Mrs was out at 7pm!! The guide suggests between 4 and 4.30 mins for the walk. In 3 hours time I could get a bus at Ballantrae, the next one 2 hours later. Lets see how the 1st hour goes then decide.

Glenapp Kirk

The bus dropped me off at Glenapp Kirk and just as well I asked a fellow passenger sitting near me when we would reach Glenapp village. He laughed and said 'now' and pressed the stop button. Just as well as despite saying to the driver where I wanted off, he would have sped past, the village being the kirk and a couple of houses without a sign.
The kirk is reputed to be one of the smallest in Scotland and indeed a lovely scenic little setting it sits in.

Ferry leaving Cairnryan

The walk starts across the road, take care crossing as the traffic to and from Stranraer flies past. The path starts with a gradual walk up the hill. You are surrounded by rhododendron bushes but I am a month or so early before they bloom, a non native species being removed in parts of Scotland but it will still be a fine sight when they bloom. A flash of colour on the hedge catches my eye and it is a dead male pheasant. The fly tying fisherman in me considers a plucking job but decide I don't have the time nor a pouch to keep the no doubt flea ridden feathers in. I think it has been run over and left there although it looks in good condition.

Incoming & outgoing ferries

The honking of male pheasants was a common feature today with many running right in front of me or exploding out of the undergrowth right beside me giving my ticker a fright. However they are undeniably beautifully coloured birds.
At the top of the hill I spot a ferry crossing out of Cairnryan and my peripheral vision spots a bird of prey circling over a field of lambs. It looks too big for a buzzard surely not a golden eagle. Binoculars quickly out and indeed it is. It did not descend but rode a thermal circling higher and higher until out of sight. Not the only one I would see today but more of that later.
After 30 minutes I get my first glimpse of the sea, it is a Coastal path after all, and get a good view of the peninsula and lighthouse near Portpatrick, the Mull of Kintyre and in the distance Northern Ireland. To the north Ailsa Craig dominates with a view of Arran from the south that I don't normally see. Fantastic.

Ailsa Craig in the distance

The walk is now in open moorland and it is very boggy in places,I wish I had worn gaiters. Skylarks and meadow pipits take to the air singing loudly above me, a cheering sound. A pair of peewits cry and circle over the open field and I presume a nest. There is a prehistoric cairn nearby but I am not going to go across this boggy ground to try and find it.
The track heads towards the sea and I can see that it then turns left.  Every field is dotted with sheep, often with lambs, so dog walkers beware. Sheep all over apart from the track that I am heading down. The cattle are out and they are right on my path and from half a mile away they have also spotted me. There are about 20 of them with some very young calves. I have previous history with cattle and now avoid them at all costs. I walk down the hill but there is no way past from this path so a detour is in order, particularly as they are now all staring at me. Thankfully the electric fence above the stone dyke to my left is off so over I go keeping the barrier between me and the cattle. The problem I discover is that in this field I am suddenly ankle deep in bog but it has to be done. After crossing a couple of fields I get back on the path and hope that is it for cattle today.
I now make my decision. I am going to up the pace and go for the early bus. I suspect it is just a stretch too far by about 15 minutes or so but lets see. No doubt I will see its rear end and have a 2 hour wait.

Smugglers Bay Currarie Port

The views of the open countryside and across the sea are just magnificent and everything I hoped for. The path is firmer now and I get to the turn and go down the steep slope to the smugglers bay of Currarie Port. You can sit and have your sandwich and envisage who and what clambered ashore in this remote spot. 4 ravens come over the cliff, an omen or not?
The guide talks about crossing the burn via a pipe. Well the pipe is still there but the ground on the far side has eroded somewhat. Jumping was not an option. The burn was running fairly fast and deep in parts. After a scramble up and down its banks I was able to find a spot to jump across but I don't think everyone would manage this. I'm sure the burn will be faster and deeper at other times after heavy rain. Walking poles would help give some support across the water but I have not brought any today.

Looking back along the grassy slopes

Now it is up a steep rocky path, the lungs are blowing, is this the right route? I reach the top and follow the sign & a fence back towards the sea. There is a corrugated iron sheet covering in a small area that I have seen once before in Perthshire, protected habitat for adders I suspect? I follow a grassy trail in which 2 snares are set up, is this the path I again question? I scramble up and climb over the fence and head north. I soon see another fence in the distance with the ACP sign pointing north, not sure where I went wrong but at least back on track.

The next few miles are on a broadish grassy area with great views of the sea below and fairly easy walking. 
This is where I spot a bird circling slightly out at sea. It is a large bird so out with binoculars. My first thought was an osprey as the first arrivals are heading north just now but do they take fish from sea water, I suppose they do, need to find out. The glasses confirmed eagle so next thought was sea eagle trying to find an eider for lunch. It circled and the flew inland fairly close. I could not see any sign of a white tail so I presume it was a goldie but again I have not seen them hunt over the sea before. 
I look at Ailsa Craig and from this perspective I can see the sheer cliff where the gannets nest. Even from this distance their droppings have painted the cliff white.
I am now pushing on quickly with grave doubts about my prospects of success. In the distance I can see the peak of the hill that sits to the west of Ballantrae but I had hoped to see the town itself. 

Ballantrae & Ailsa Craig

Care has to be taken as the ground does give from time to time. I crest a ridge and the town is in view, a quick check of the watch, 26 minutes to bus time. The path goes through a kissing gate into a cattle churned muddy field with no obvious directions re where to head. I can see the River Stinchar which I know cannot be crossed from the beach so I head inland and follow a fence up to the road path. Back on track literally and a quick check of the map shows I have to follow the track through two working farms to the main road.
The walk has been one of total isolation, at one with nature and my own thoughts, the first person I met was a worker at the 1st farm on this track. The amount of farm machinery indicates considerable investment and a large business.

Bridge over the River Stinchar

I am now into a jog walk and reach the main road with 5 minutes to spare and get a quick snap of the bridge. 
Now where is the bus stop? I get there with 3 minutes to spare to the timetabled service and you know what comes next, the bus was 10 minutes late!!
All in all a superb walk with fantastic views, both inland and out to sea. I did the walk in 3 hours almost to the minute but with sweat on the brow. I will return and do this in a more leisurely fashion. Still a superb day, great scenery and plenty of birdlife, what's not to enjoy.

Ayrshire Coastal Path Largs - Skelmorlie

For several reasons, mainly poor weather and then sunning myself in Tenerife, I have been unable to get some good Scottish walking in over the last month so it was uplifting to start tramping about again, continuing my Ayrshire Coastal Path meandering.

The empty promenade at Largs

Today's walk was full of enjoyment but was also disappointing. In this northern section of the coastal walk today's leg gives the walker the most height gained but the undoubted superb views were diluted by the warm hazy air, not a good day for enjoying the long distance views or photographing them but a good day for walking. Still I will be back on a clear air day to take in the superb vista on offer. As I know the area I could pick out the shapes of the islands and the other coastlines but I know that there is so much more to see. If you do this make sure you pick a good viewing day.

Knock Hill in the distance

Today's leg starts in the normally bustling town of Largs where I walk north from the ferry port along a surprisingly deserted promenade. Well it was fairly early in the day and the old residents were probably still enjoying their lie in. A short walk takes me past the boating pond however no boats today, just a shallow and dirty water pool.
You have 2 options for this stretch, around 6-7 miles on the low road and around 9-10 miles on the high road. If you are fit enough then there is no option it has to be the high road where for a little effort you are rewarded with fantastic views both inland and out to islands and coast to the west. You can also make Knock hill your target as a circular walk from either Largs or Skelmorlie.

Boggy path just after the farm

The path to Knock Hill takes you through the outskirts of the town, then a short road stretch past the cemetery and then country walking thereafter. The ascent is gradual and will be easy for any moderately fit person but the track was fairly muddy all the way up the hill and no doubt can be a lot worse after heavy rain. So proper footwear just in case. You pass quite a few farm gates so please ensure all gates are as you find them i.e. if open leave them so and closed if that's the case. The old farmhouse is an interesting structure, sheepdogs barking in the yard but thankfully chained up and plenty of chickens clucking away in their roost.
As you climb there are super views of the hills to your right as well as catching a glimpse of Knock hill from time to time. The weather was so pleasant I had already taken off my light jacket and my mid layer. The climb wasn't hard but the sweat was already on my brow.
The path takes you beyond Knock hill and comes back at it from the rear which eases the climbing burden. At one point, just past the farm, there looks like a direct ascent that can be made but a local I met advised me that it was so boggy that it was not worth the effort. Incidentally that was the only person I met on the walk out with the towns, a great day of isolation and silence apart from natures own sounds.

Knock Hill summit

Pheasants abound and I spot my first Skylarks of the year, singing proudly from way up in the skies.
As mentioned earlier the views from the top of Knock hill are outstanding even on this hazy day. You can understand why a fortress would have been built here, not easy to sneak up on this place. Official height is just under 270 metres yet again proving you don't need to go too high to get the panoramas. The golf course below was a surprise to me, need to check what one this is, even from up here no sight of a clubhouse.

4th take on the self timer

On the way down you divert from the uphill path and head for a stone wall and follow this to a gate. Follow the very muddy track down. There is no obvious track but keep the beech trees and the gulley close to your right and you will be fine. It was clear from the mud that a large number of sheep had came through here recently and I found them at the bottom where a gate appears and a steepish descent takes you to the red road. There were a few pairs of grey squirrels and 4 deer in these woods so keep your eyes open.

The sheep are interested in grazing not me, Knock Hill behind them

This road undulates which gives one a bit of variety instead of a normal flat road, passing pleasant farmland and nice scenic views from time to time.

You now drop down onto the main road and I thought this was the end of this stretch, apart from a short walk along a busy road. However, I should have read the guide a bit more carefully last night. But surprise, surprise the route takes you back up a steep climb, lungs going again, onto a high road past the caravan park. An even older guy than me passed me on the climb jogging, good on you mate.
The views from this road would be worth the effort on a clear air day.
You now reach Skelmorlie and go past some very nice properties a mixture of Victorian mansions and new properties, clearly money not a major issue here. A steep descent down the hill brings you to the end of walk signpost.

Too hazy for a great view

Across the main road there is the ferry/rail terminal of Wemyss Bay, do go across and look at the quality of this iconic station. For gents pop into the toilets, immaculately clean but a throwback to the past, don't know about the ladies but might be similar.
Overall a short stretch which took me just over 3 hours.
For most people this is the end of the coastal path walk but I still have some of the southern section to do over the next few weeks.

The final sign

Ayrshire Coastal Path Portencross - Largs

I had hoped to complete the final northern section of the Ayrshire Coastal Path walk to Skelmorlie today but sadly time was against me so I compromised and walked half of it and to be fair I had a good time.

Portencross anchorage at low tide

I parked at Portencross castle car-park early in the morning, the frost was still on the ground and the northerly breeze made it a decidedly chilly. Went to pull up the zip on my base layer and realised I had put it on inside out when dressing in the darkness, that's what I get for trying not to wake up the Mrs!! Time for a quick and chilly striptease. The only other guy in the car-park was unloading a kayak, rather him than me, it would be cold out on the water.
The walk takes you along the front past some cottages and out onto a wide grassy area. The view across the sea has little Cumbrae in your vision for the stretch up-to Hunterston and plenty of sea-birds dotted around the water. 

An impressive dark cold looking cliff face is on your right which had a raven calling loudly. I hear other calling above me and in the clear blue sky I spot a skein of geese heading north, is this a sign that they think things are warming up here and are heading home? I hope so.

The road to Hunterston

The path is a bit muddy but fine for walking, the views are good, in particular Millport and Cumbrae, with the exception that Hunterston nuclear power station looms ahead. The sign outside the site tells outsiders that the principal objective is nuclear safety, which gives me visions of mysterious armed men suddenly turning up ready to shoot me. In some ways it does not seem that big a complex, you kind of expect a nuclear plant to be much larger. 

Boiling sea

As I go past the end of the complex and look out to sea the water is bubbling and boiling furiously. I assume that this is a discharge from the plant, a bit scary what is going into the sea? There has long been tales from fishermen of strange distorted fish caught in these waters, true or not I don't know.
As the path now curves back towards the main road the views are of the huge mudflats where a good number of Shelduck are feeding away. The huge Clydeport terminal is also in view with a ship being unloaded of its cargo of coal. These huge ships are bringing coal from South America which are then put on trains and transported to the Midlands. What is the carbon footprint of these journeys and it seems economic madness?

Fairlie bay

You now join a cycle path and the structured planting of the trees suggest that this was the road entrance to the estate in years gone by. The path goes alongside the main road for a spell which is a bit tedious but you soon reach Fairlie, where a nice small bay is spoilt by the large ore terminal. There is also a vast abandoned hole where they intended to build oil platforms but thankfully you can't see it from here. There are plenty of birds around to keep the ornithologists happy. In this short road spell there was the usual regulars but also included, brambling, reed bunting & buzzards.

Fairlie beach

In the bay the path cuts away from the road and runs behind the houses, some of them large mansions. I am lucky that the tide is out so I can beach walk this section. Easier on the feet as most of the walk so far has been on tarmac. Some nice apartments line the beach with good sized balconies to enjoy the views.
Back onto the main road for a while until you reach the cycle path at the Marina. There are some very impressive and no doubt very expensive boats here, all tightly packed in, a few million pounds worth here.

The Pencil

Shortly after leaving the marina you come to the Pencil monument which commemorates the battle of Largs in 1263 when the ruling Viking fleet arrived to take on a Scottish army. An important but not decisive battle as it was 3 years later that the Western coast of Scotland was signed over by the Vikings to the Scots.
It is now a stroll along Largs promenade, very busy today with locals and visitors enjoying the good weather. You can easily tell that Largs is a retirement town, more than a few grey hairdos around.

The views are still superb as I walk to the end of the promenade, passing the Cumbrae ferry, a 10 minute journey and one worth doing. You can also see in the distance ferries crossing to Dunoon and the Argyll peninsula.
I finish my section today where the signs direct you inland towards the high route to Skelmorlie.
The guide for this section indicates around 9 miles but my gps app tracker indicates my trip was nearly 12 miles, I must have done a bit of wandering about away from the track. All in all another good walk. Time for Nardini's for some warm food, it is not a day for their famous ice creams and then a bus back to the car.
I will get the Skelmorlie leg done over the coming week.

Arran from Portencross

Welcome to Hunterston

Largs marina

Ayrshire Coastal Path Ayr - Troon

Yet another bright and breezy day punctuated with blasts of sleet/snow, the perfect day for a wander. Well not quite but it has not been a good week for getting outdoors and I want a good stint of fresh air. The forecast looks good so long as you are well wrapped up and that I am.

Arran from Barassie beach

My intention was to get the train to Ayr and walk the stretch as per the guidebook but there is a very strong wind-chill factor today, blowing NNW, so I decided to have this wind at my back rather than in my face. This will be a more comfortable walk even though the downside is having the low winter sun in my eyes for most of the trip. Still cant have everything.
I walked along the beach towards the Ballast bank and as you can see from the picture the clouds were full of colour, but it did bring back the rhyme, 'red sky in the morning, shepherds warning', was there to be snow around?
The starting point is the Ballast Bank, a famous landmark in Troon, and even the short gain in height improves the views. From here you have a superb 360 degree panoramic view and if you have picked a good clear air day you will enjoy this spot. If it is the end of your walk, which it will be for most people, remember the Wee Hurrie at the harbour for great fish & chips.

 

Wee Hurrie

The walk takes you along the promenade following the cycle path but I cut onto the beach as soon as I can and walk this all the way to the Pow burn which is at the end of Royal Troon golf course, the Open championship is here next year. The walk will take you alongside the course but you will need to pop up onto the dunes if you want to see the course itself. This is a pleasant straight forward stretch with the sea taking up most of your interest as well as looking ahead to Prestwick, Ayr and the Carrick hills.
It all depends on the weather but the Pow burn is more than likely to be running too high and deep to cross without getting your feet wet so follow the track up into the dunes and walk along and skirt the caravan park.


Pow Burn

If you walk straight on for a few hundred yards you will get a view of Prestwick airport, you probably have had some low flying jets already to alert you to its proximity. Sadly passenger traffic is at its lowest but you might see military or transport planes as well. Just after the park you go through the kissing gate and cut across a bridge which heads you towards the sea again, this is now part of Old Prestwick golf course and the top path along the dunes gives you a good view of the course and an appreciation of why this is also a Championship course, albeit the Open is unlikely to be played here again.

Troon bay

Now dropdown onto the Prestwick beach promenade and either walk along this or go onto the beach again, no option for me as it is high tide. You could also take a short detour and see the remains of St Nicholas's church from the 12th century. On the promenade there is a café/toilets here if you want a break or refreshments. Although similar to the other bays in the area the tide has a greater tendency to break over this seawall and there is plenty of evidence of the sea debris that says this has happened recently. In really bad weather it would not be advisable to walk here, you can walk along the road further back beside the houses.
At the end of the promenade you can walk round the point, weather dependant, but the tide today means I am cutting in slightly and walking along the edge of another golf course, Prestwick St Nicholas. There is a well defined path so you cannot get lost. Do take care here as you are very close to a landing area for drives. Despite the cold weather plenty of golfers are on the course, good for them, I prefer playing in warmer weather, wimp that I am.
After this you drop down onto a large, rundown, promenade and realise you are moving into an industrial area (Newton) on the fringes of Ayr.

Looking towards the industrial port of Ayr

At this stage you have to zig zag through the streets until you reach the River Ayr. Cross the road bridge and go right following the river heading back towards the sea. When crossing the bridge if you look to your left there is the old cobble bridge 'Auld Brig of Ayr'. A short detour takes you across it and I would do it, either now or later as described.

You have now reached the Citadel leisure complex. This area was originally a walled fortress built by Cromwell, with a full on military barracks, hence the name. There are some ruins of the fortress left. The route takes you through the new apartments that have swallowed up the area, some look good but some are looking a bit tatty already.
My walk is just about finished, the new boots are starting to rub a bit so enough for today, I go along the promenade and cut back in to the town passing the Courthouse and the following plaque which gives some very interesting historical info about the areas of the low & high green which we are standing at. 

If you go back to the High Street you can follow signs to the Auld Kirk and its graveyard with some very old gravestones from the Covenanter era. Follow the river and you can cross the Auld Brig, immortalised by Rabbie Burns, the end of this stretch of the coastal path for me.
All in all a very enjoyable walk and with that low sun in my face for most of it I really should have put some lotion on, my face feels a bit skelpt!!  The app drains my battery but tells me that the total from house to finish a shade over 14 miles.

In the above photo that is looking back to Troon from the beach near the Marine Hotel, you can see the black streaks in the sand, a legacy of the coal mining within this area.
The last photo shows the sea just off the ballast bank looking towards the Carrick Hills, at that point, the grey sky hinted off a poor day ahead but it was just a storm passing over. what a contrast to the top picture in this blog taken just a few minutes earlier.

Ayrshire Coastal Path Troon - Ardrossan

After what seems like an eternity of gale force winds it is great to have a period of relative calm. With all the snow around my only option is a low level walk so I decided to do another stretch of this path. I had intended to do this yesterday but the weather forecast said snow/sleet coming in mid morning onwards so I decided to pass. Guess what, the snow did come in but not until 8 pm so a bit annoyed. A check on the met office this morning indicated a dull cold day but more importantly no snow or rain so off we go.

Looking to Arran in the snow

This section of the Coastal walk is a bit of a misnomer as about half of it is well away from the coast and follows inland paths so be prepared.
The first section of the walk  from Troon in the guide gives you two alternatives; an inland walk via the ruins of Dundonald castle or the beach walk. I am familiar with the castle area so for me it is the direct route today. I started at Troon harbour on this slightly bleak morning, well wrapped up for the trip. If you finish the Ayr section here you have the bonus option of visiting the Wee Hurrie one of Scotland's best fish & chippies. The don't call it a supper here so just ask for haddock & chips and I doubt you will be disappointed. However too early for it to be open so on with the walk. This stretch skirts past Troon marina, you can pop in and look around, some high value boats here. Onwards past the ferry terminal which at the moment is a summer only fast boat to Belfast so there is no activity today. The walk skirts around Troon but it is easy to pop into the town if you want some provisions or just a look around. You now come onto the cycle path which is an easy follow or you can go onto the beach. You now have views on your left of Arran all the way to Irvine, that is if unlike today it isn't hidden by the gloom, however to show you how different our days are here is a photo of Arran taken on Monday.
The houses of Barassie shore line your left and when you reach the end of the cycle path do not follow it up to the houses but continue on the grassy area following the beach.
When you reach the pumping station you can continue along the beach or follow the edge of the dunes via the golf course. There is a right of way alongside the course but take care, the golfers of Western Gailes can be a stuck up lot and whilst many will give you a friendly greeting a significant few will just glare at you. Your choice.

Tideline obvious

It is a straight walk along the beach so no maps required. The dunes on your right are now collapsing rapidly as the sea reclaims the land, they are now a shadow of their once mighty size. It would appear neither North nor South Ayrshire councils have any will to do anything about the erosion. Very sad, no doubt someone will come to their senses but it will be too late and most of the sand and grass will be long gone.

Look out coast side for all the normal seashore birds along the waters edge and if you have the binos keep scanning the sea you might be surprised what is out there. It has been strange having last nights snow flurry covering the sand where the incoming tide didn't reach.
I am breaking in a new pair of boots which are fine but the main issue being the laces are crap and keep loosening. I finally found out that if you tie them tightly the tension doesn't hold and they quickly loosen. I therefore had to tie them looser which also meant the boots were a looser fit than I like. Poor show Salomen for over £100 quid boots duff laces. So I now had a doubt in my mind as to whether I would complete the walk. Thankfully I didn't end up with any blistering.
The guide book says this stretch is 6 miles but I think it is a bit shorter. As I step off the shore and up-to the car park the temperature cools slightly in the breeze but it is enough to get me to pull the zips up.

Irvine bay & mudflats

I can see round the bay ahead but the route now goes inland, past the mudflats, again a good winter birding spot. We head towards Irvine town then follow the cycle path over the River Irvine and effectively now you are following this cycle route all the way to Ardeer.

River Irvine, railway viaduct & Ardeer beyond

The path goes past the area known as Bogside, the name tells you everything. There used to be a racecourse which hosted the Scottish Grand National but it is now gone. There is a challenging golf course but we don't really see much of it today.
The path is now getting decidedly slippy as the new snow has settled on previous ice so the grassy verges are my chosen area for walking particularly on inclines and declines. The prospect of a sore bottom is forefront in my mind.
This area is very much a reclaimed wetland and the Nature reserve you pass can be explored with care but not today, as you can see most of the water is iced over and only for the ducks and the wetland birds.

A short bit ahead you have the choice of taking a short detour of about a mile each way, into Kilwinning to visit their historic Abbey. Again I know the area well so pass on the detour. If you do this in June check the town website as a famous archery contest takes place that month.
This stretch is for me the most boring, it is mainly tarmac, some path and some minor road, as you skirt around Kilwinning and cut underneath the main road and head to Stevenston. In fairness it is very quiet but on a day like today there is not a lot going for it. The usual hedgerow birds are very active, spring bonding taking place, so at least there is something to look at apart from the icy path.
We now enter Ardeer Park which has a duckpond which normally has a few duck varieties but today it is iced over and the ducks are elsewhere. Still, it is time to have a short break, get the flask out and enjoy some home-made soup. A couple of local dog walkers are disappointed that I did not have any left to share with them.
Despite the gloomy day I am well wrapped up so cold is not an issue and I am even regularly off and on with my gloves and hat. There was once a canal in this site but the water has long since gone.
I follow the icy path/road up to the train station where the warning barriers are down and red lights are flashing for what seems like 5 minutes before the 3 coach train pulls into the station. For a few local worthies this appears to be today's entertainment. A couple of sizeable local ladies are struggling with their footing, fiercely holding onto each other, a case of 'if one goes down we both go'!!

Ardeer dunes looking North

Through the gates and I can see open land again, yippee, a big grassy area with some dunes in the distance. Even a play park for the kids. These dunes are a designated nature area but there are many tracks through them so clearly popular with walkers or more likely dog walkers from my experience today. However, it was great to stand atop of a dune and take in the view, a calm sea, looking back the Ardeer works, a pale shadow of the industrialisation that once stood here. Not so good for the workers but a lot better for the views. Looking north the bay leads to Saltcoats pier, again historically a major port but now more or less abandoned.

Ardeer dunes looking south

I clamber off the dunes and walk along the beach to the promenade. Anyone who lives in the West of Scotland will be familiar with it but maybe not realise how familiar they are with it. Whenever a big storm hits the West the camera crews make a beeline for here to get some great shots of huge waves crashing over the promenade and onto the rail line. 

The promenade

The promenade is sadly abandoned save for the odd dog walker heading back to the static caravan site, am I the only walker today without a dog? Just me and a few gulls. The three towns of Stevenston, Saltcoats & Ardrossan have a rich industrial history, linking the area with the other coastal resorts of Irvine, Troon & Ayr. As always fortunes are made by some then lost again just as quickly. Read the guidebook for detailed information on the industrial history of the area.

Gulls & a calm sea

I have reached Saltcoats harbour, also sadly giving the impression of being derelict, additionally the high harbour wall walk is closed for repairs after the last storm. I suspect it is rarely open. A walk around the bay promenade brings me to Ardrossan bay and I'm nearly at the end of this section. The two bays are lined with Victorian mansions, a reminder of the historic industrial importance of these bays, but now they are mostly divided into flats.
There are some attempts to shore front entertainment, amusement arcades and even a cinema, but all in all not a lot going for it.

Ardrossan from Saltcoats

A final walk along the beach takes me into Ardrossan proper. This stretch alongside the beach is still a bit tired and run down. Further on in the harbour area major regeneration is taking place, marinas, restaurants and new housing but this area could do with some support. The views into the Dalry hills are sadly spoiled by the wind turbines. You can cross the road, take a short walk and visit Ardrossan castle, another one destroyed by our 'friend' Cromwell. It wasn't until I read the guide book that I learned that the stone from the castle was taken to Ayr to build the Citadel, you learn something every day. 
I have enjoyed my walk today, the exercise was welcome even if the dullish day and the time of year meant that there was less colour around. As I said in the beginning this is the stretch with the most time walking away from the coast so just accept it.
A 5 hour walk for me, the signpost indicates 17 miles but I felt it was closer to 15 but good nonetheless.