Great Glen Way Laggan - Fort Augustus

After yesterday's hill efforts, Meall an t-Slamain, today's plan was to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way.
A grey and wet morning was my vista from the hotel windows as I tucked into my breakfast. A damp walk through the equally bleak Fort William centre to the bus station. Why do the planners allow outer town shopping areas to have such a detrimental effect on the towns themselves, you have a lot to answer for.
A 30 minute ride on an under populated bus takes me to the Laggan swing bridge to continue my Great Glen journey.
As I crossed the main road taking the track towards the Great Glen Water Park the sun was coming out and the birds were singing, this is the life.

Invergarry station

The route follows the old railway line alongside Loch Oich so you cannot get lost, yet another of General Wade's roads, how many did he create? There is a project going on to restore Invergarry railway station in some form. A nice siding and a few old wagons but not sure what else is going to happen here apart from a static example of some kind, a museum maybe, but good luck to them.

The new hard packed track sits about 10 feet above the old track as described in Walkhighlands but essentially it is the same route. One issue for a walker is that the lower track was almost loch side and good views across the water. This higher track has an almost constant tree line between the walker and the water. Not an issue at this time of the year as few trees in leaf but at other times your view of the water might be quite limited.
There is evidence of lots of improvement work being carried out and a I even spot a tree with a bat roost sign, I presume they are all still tucked up inside the tree today. A red squirrel appears and I spend a few minutes watching it making its way through the trees, a smile on my face, such simple things make you feel better.

Spend some time and look across the water to the ruins of Invergarry castle and smile at the equally ruined boat on the banks. The castle has stacks of history, destroyed after Culloden, yet another one and think about the misery of that time, rich and poor alike. The boat was a tourist boat, just surprised the authorities have not forced a removal of the wreck.
Next, I come across a clearing that is used by the canoe trekkers for overnight stops. One bonus there are some modern composting toilets and the good news, they were unlocked. I did not need to explore this further.

Composite toilet

A bit further on the walk goes under an impressive stone railway bridge, it’s a loch on one side so where was it going and interestingly there are bat signs on this too.

Looking back down Loch Oich

Next point of interest is the renovation work at the Aberchalder road crossing, which is all noise and construction, so I quickly cross and back to the tranquillity. So quickly I forgot to snap the historic cantilever bridge over the River Oich. Loch Oich is now in the past and the route now follows the canal to Fort Augustus although the River Oich is still spotted frequently on your left hand side. 

Wide canal between Oich & Fort Augustus

At these locks there is a cracking lock keepers cottage where I spend some time talking to the owner. Tranquil he described it and with this rainbow behind you cannot disagree.

There were a lot of aircraft flying today both low and high level. I also spotted a couple of Chinook helicopters above a far hill, I wonder if an exercise is ongoing. I heard the roar and just pressed the shutter as these two flew past, no sound oppressors on these engines.

Whilst studying the river an angler appears through the trees, we have a good chat, the early salmon are running but not for him so far. I get the sad tale of the devastation the hydro works have caused to the salmon runs, or indeed lack of them. As we talk the orange breast of Mrs sparrow hawk lands in a tree right beside us before realising her mistake and swiftly flies away.

At Kytra lock, a beautiful spot indeed, a barge inn is docked, all shut up, I don’t know if this is its usual spot for walkers, water folk etc wanting drink and food, but none to be had for me, dig out another small pie.
My waterproof leggings have been on and off, dry now but the last few miles see a major temperature drop along with high winds. Still it is behind me and blows me along to the locks of Fort Augustus and my finish. These locks are identical to those at the start of the Way, Neptune’s staircase at Banavie. I had originally considered going further today onto Invermoriston but the change in weather and the knowledge that one of the infrequent buses back to Fort William was due in 15 minutes made my mind up to finish here for the day.

Fort Augustus 5 minutes prior to the storm

Whilst waiting for my bus (in the shelter out of the wind and rain) a tourist bus pulled up and deposited a lot of Italians, who in their fashionable dress and style, looked under whelmed with the heavy rain. Not wet enough to stop almost all of them lighting cigarettes. Double whammy for them, as my bus went over the canal I saw them all queuing up for the incorporated small boat loch cruise. In this wind and rain, happy memories of Scotland.
Despite or because of the mixture of wind, rain, sun and blue skies I enjoyed my walk.  Distance was 9.46 miles with minimal ascent. 3 and a half hours of splendid Scottish countryside, nowhere else I would really want to be.