Great Glen Way Drumnadrochit - Inverness

Walk: Great Glen Way Drumnadrochit - Inverness
Category: Long Distance Walks
Height: n/a
Well that’s it finally finished, my last section of the Great Glen Way, a bit sad. For various reasons it took me a year longer than planned but that’s life.
I will get my rant over first. This section is just one long walk, mainly on hard packed surfaces and my feet were sore. I had hoped to do this with lightweight boots as a summer walk but ended up in my mountain boots and they were not appropriate. The forecast was for snow showers which thankfully did not arrive. I was under some pressure with the very short daylight, no time for lingering ring en route. But I know my walking speed so was confident even over the long distance.
Sadly after being close to water on all the other sections this one most definitely is not. It is mainly through deforested woodland and open moorland, views limited to inland scenes.
And as for the end of the walk, see later!!
Still, lets concentrate on the walk.

Drumnadrochit and impressive War Memorial

I took the bus to Drumnadrochit where on arrival it was cold and drizzling rain but anticipation helps you ignore these. Beware the first 1.5 miles from here is a pavement walk until you reach the obvious Temple Pier area with a marker post to turn left into the countryside. Interesting information board about John Cobb’s speedboat record attempt, worth an internet search.

Looking back to Urquhart Castle on the peninsula

The track loops up and around houses before becoming a proper track with views back over the water and Urquhart Castle.

Woodland walking

It is now a steep climb through the woods with significant height gain but at least the track is carpeted with pine needles so nice and soft going. Autumn colours still prominent. A bunch of cyclo cross cyclists appear, the only other outdoor people I will meet today, no other walkers at all. Occasional breaks in the trees give brief glimpses of Loch Ness.

Stunning rainbow

As I broke out of the trees a beautiful rainbow started to form, a double showed briefly but cannot get fully formed. The snap does not do the colours justice, it was beautiful.

Deforestation in progress

I came across a forestry worker stacking up the fallen trees and stopped for a brief chat.
At the signpost for Abriachan Forest Walks, despite my time pressures, I chose the diversion route as much to get off the hard track. The track was obvious and soon led to a seat and viewpoint.

Start of Iron Age settlement

After that headed down to the iron age settlement which could be spotted through the trees. There are a few wooded constructions as well as some eco buildings. A very large chestnut brown bird burst from the undergrowth and flew quickly and silently into undergrowth, not sure what that was?  There are toilets at the settlement if required. 

Love these trees

Back on the main track which is now a straight line ahead lined with Silver birches stunning outlined against blue skies.

Eco cafe open all year

Cross a road and follow another track where you pass the eco café at Tomachoin, sadly no time to visit but it certainly looks interesting.
Now the second worst section for me was walking this tarmac road for 4 km (according to Walkhighlands) but it seemed a lot longer today, feet beginning to protest. Away from the relative shelter of the trees the temperature dropped considerably on this open moor, extra gear added for warmth. Red kites and buzzards circled the moor was I to be there scavenging prey? 

Finally off the tarmac

Boy was I glad to reach the newly constructed path which continues over the open moorland, the scenic views helped the time go by. 
The next section is a mixed forest, some of which is the old drovers trail route heading to the market at Falkirk.
The trees became pine woods again where I had an interesting experience. Just ahead I spotted some things floating down, strange no trees shedding leaves. Standing at the spot they continued to softly float down. It turned out they were feathers, grey and white, probably a pigeon being eaten by a raptor above me but I could not spot it.
There were good views of the Cromarty Firth on my left and when I reached the reservoir I finally got sight of Inverness ahead. 

Finally Inverness in sight

As I headed towards Great Glen House I passed a sign ‘Inverness castle 4 miles‘. This was now the worst section by far and it was a long 4 miles on protesting feet. The route is on and off tarmac roads, through housing estates, established and new building sites. Underpasses etc before briefly reaching the Caledonian Canal, it seems a long time since I last saw it.

Caledonian Canal I missed you

However this is a very brief interlude before more tarmac street walking to reach the River Ness. Then guess what, more tarmac walking to the end at the castle. Needless to say the rain joined me for these 4 miles and darkness arrived early. I had been under a tight time deadline but arrived as per my expectations.

Ness Islands almost finished

I believe that there is no such thing as a bad walk but that last section was stretching my positiveness. 
Overall I really enjoyed my Great Glen Way experience and was glad that I split it up experiencing it in all the different weather patterns Scotland gives us, all for the good.
Now time to hit the Black Isle bar for some well deserved beer. A pint of Red Kite would be an appropriate starter. 

Wildlife: Red Kite, Buzzard, Wren, Bluetit, Wood Pigeon, Blackbird, 
Time: 6.15
Ascent: 693m
Distance: 31.1k

Great Glen Way, Taking the high road Invermoriston - Drumnadrochit

Walk: Great Glen Way. Invermoriston - Drumnadrochit.

As I was in the area I decided to complete my penultimate stage of this long distance route. The forecast was for persistent rain arriving at lunchtime but in reality it sadly came much earlier.

Right after shop

I started from the car park in Invermoriston, heading along the Skye road turning right at the craft shop on the far side of the road.

Now follow the lane as it quickly climbs via the zig zag route and soon there are good views back down to Invermoriston.

Diversion

I was taking the High Route so I followed this diversion, not sure how new it is but the path is straightforward.

The path skirts the moor (deer fence all the way) before entering the wooded area for the next stretch. Still mostly climbing before it starts to descend steeply before rising again, a feature of the first half of this walk.  

Autumn woodland

As I leave the woods the rain comes on, lightly at first and then heavier and that was it for the day. 

Wood and stone sculpture

Out on the moor an open landscape, good views and a nice surprise reaching the artistic sculpture in wood and stone. Some pheasants are sitting in the tree beside it undisturbed by my passing. Maybe the shooting we can hear means ‘stay put’ to them.

Plenty of these on route

This area has been deforested and as I descended I look at the hill ahead to my left and spot a track near the summit. Then it clicks that is where I am heading, why am I descending? 

Ornate bridge

On this descent it crosses this lovely ornate wooden bridge, a real feature to remember.

Colour on a drab day

Thankfully the next uphill is once again a zig-zag route so just keep on going as it steeply climbs. Finally I reach the top section as it curves the south flank of Creag Dhearg. If you thought about climbing it forget that as a large deer fence needs to be climbed. 

Finally a sighting of Loch Ness

Now I am at the viewpoint overlooking Loch Ness, which no doubt is an excellent spot on a nice day, lesser so today in the rain.

Mid point

Sadly there has been limited sight of Loch Ness today and once again the route heads inland. The path is straightforward but it is becoming a bit of a trudge.

Indeed after the Pottery turn it becomes a road march for the next three miles not so enjoyable.

cafe). Here turn right and follow an off road path on the left side of the narrow road.

Moorland to Drumnadrochit

After views of the moor the route goes away from the road for the descent into Drumnadrochit but in reality still a lot more tarmac walking.

A walk of two halves the first being much more enjoyable than second. Also the amount of ascent was a bit surprising, I know read the route properly, this was meant to be a leg warm up for 4 Munros over the next two days, indeed it was.
One major gripe was that for almost the whole walk someone had dropped a used tissue roughly every mile. I would love to ask that person why they go to the effort of being out in our great landscape and spoil it in this way, sad unthinking people.
Now just the final section to do and an excuse to come back next month.
That’s if the one bus per afternoon turns up and gets me back to my car at Invermoriston.
Wildlife: Grouse, Pheasant, Wheatear, Stonecat.
Time: 5.21
Ascent: 735m
Distance: 23.6k

Great Glen Way Fort Augustus - Invermoriston but no Nessie

Whilst I was in the area it was an opportunity to complete another section of the Great Glen Way. Time was not fully on my side so the short section from Fort Augustus to Invermoriston via the high route was today’s walk.

The car park at Fort Augustus was almost full with plenty of tourist coaches around. They were to create bedlam later, blocking cars from leaving, police called so be aware which section you park in. The charge is 60p (4 hours)-£1(10 hours) but there is also a free car park up the hill at the start of the route.
Weather was grey but dry so we turned left out of the car park then soon another left and followed the sign up the hill. This excellent seat is a maybe for walkers coming the other direction but too early for us today.

Take a short walk through here on a tarmac road via some nice housing and just before this rejoins the main route another signposted left turn takes you into an old forest. The track winds its way upwards on a zig zag easy trail past some magnificent huge fir trees amongst others.

On a flat section the bench is reached where an opening should let you see the signposted Crannog. Well maybe in the past you could but now the trees have grown too tall, even standing on the bench no view of the Crannog.

Left for the high route

Avoid the white sign post opposite the bench and go further down the track, 1.5 miles from the start, the track forks giving the option of the high or low routes. 
High route today for the views. Again quickly off the hard packed route the track goes left and for a mile or so steeply zig zags through lighter woods with the pleasant noise of a burn tumbling down for company. Lots of different mushrooms here for those foragers in the know.

The walk breaks out onto open moorland and 5 minutes later the first good views both up and down Loch Ness. Pleasure boats are taking tourists on sedate trips whilst small rib style boats are doing fast tight turns, the squeals can be heard up here. Thankfully this does not last for long.

Looking back down the Glen & Fort Augustus

This recently well constructed high route path continues at this high level for another 3 miles before it starts its descent, plenty of time to take in the outstanding views. 

About half way along a newly built sheltered stone seating area has been constructed, ideal for a break to check the map and identify some landmarks. The radar station ahead is the hill that we will bend around. Had a good look but no sign of Nessie on the water today.

The track is still staying high but the gradient is now more of a descent. Surprisingly little wildlife to be seen, a few meadow pipits and stonechats, a couple of butterflies and that was it. No raptors nor even ravens and crows.

The route now winds its way around the hill and begins a very steep descent through the forest. Less of a zigzag than the ascent this would be a steep pull up. The striking white of Invermoriston lodge can be seen through the trees.

At a marked intersection go across, do not be tempted to stay high, and follow the track through the lower woods. It is slightly disconcerting as for over half a mile it takes you inland away from the loch before reaching a signpost where a right turn leads you to a road. Another right turn and the road takes you back to the striking bridge at Invermoriston.

We took in the short walk to visit the falls before finishing with a visit to the café, just a stroll up the Skye road, for a well deserved coffee and cake.

Probably my favourite section of the walk so far, mainly due to the high level views.
Time: 3.06
Distance: 7.99 (12.86km)
Ascent: 1769ft (539m)

Great Glen Way Laggan - Fort Augustus

After yesterday's hill efforts, Meall an t-Slamain, today's plan was to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way.
A grey and wet morning was my vista from the hotel windows as I tucked into my breakfast. A damp walk through the equally bleak Fort William centre to the bus station. Why do the planners allow outer town shopping areas to have such a detrimental effect on the towns themselves, you have a lot to answer for.
A 30 minute ride on an under populated bus takes me to the Laggan swing bridge to continue my Great Glen journey.
As I crossed the main road taking the track towards the Great Glen Water Park the sun was coming out and the birds were singing, this is the life.

Invergarry station

The route follows the old railway line alongside Loch Oich so you cannot get lost, yet another of General Wade's roads, how many did he create? There is a project going on to restore Invergarry railway station in some form. A nice siding and a few old wagons but not sure what else is going to happen here apart from a static example of some kind, a museum maybe, but good luck to them.

The new hard packed track sits about 10 feet above the old track as described in Walkhighlands but essentially it is the same route. One issue for a walker is that the lower track was almost loch side and good views across the water. This higher track has an almost constant tree line between the walker and the water. Not an issue at this time of the year as few trees in leaf but at other times your view of the water might be quite limited.
There is evidence of lots of improvement work being carried out and a I even spot a tree with a bat roost sign, I presume they are all still tucked up inside the tree today. A red squirrel appears and I spend a few minutes watching it making its way through the trees, a smile on my face, such simple things make you feel better.

Spend some time and look across the water to the ruins of Invergarry castle and smile at the equally ruined boat on the banks. The castle has stacks of history, destroyed after Culloden, yet another one and think about the misery of that time, rich and poor alike. The boat was a tourist boat, just surprised the authorities have not forced a removal of the wreck.
Next, I come across a clearing that is used by the canoe trekkers for overnight stops. One bonus there are some modern composting toilets and the good news, they were unlocked. I did not need to explore this further.

Composite toilet

A bit further on the walk goes under an impressive stone railway bridge, it’s a loch on one side so where was it going and interestingly there are bat signs on this too.

Looking back down Loch Oich

Next point of interest is the renovation work at the Aberchalder road crossing, which is all noise and construction, so I quickly cross and back to the tranquillity. So quickly I forgot to snap the historic cantilever bridge over the River Oich. Loch Oich is now in the past and the route now follows the canal to Fort Augustus although the River Oich is still spotted frequently on your left hand side. 

Wide canal between Oich & Fort Augustus

At these locks there is a cracking lock keepers cottage where I spend some time talking to the owner. Tranquil he described it and with this rainbow behind you cannot disagree.

There were a lot of aircraft flying today both low and high level. I also spotted a couple of Chinook helicopters above a far hill, I wonder if an exercise is ongoing. I heard the roar and just pressed the shutter as these two flew past, no sound oppressors on these engines.

Whilst studying the river an angler appears through the trees, we have a good chat, the early salmon are running but not for him so far. I get the sad tale of the devastation the hydro works have caused to the salmon runs, or indeed lack of them. As we talk the orange breast of Mrs sparrow hawk lands in a tree right beside us before realising her mistake and swiftly flies away.

At Kytra lock, a beautiful spot indeed, a barge inn is docked, all shut up, I don’t know if this is its usual spot for walkers, water folk etc wanting drink and food, but none to be had for me, dig out another small pie.
My waterproof leggings have been on and off, dry now but the last few miles see a major temperature drop along with high winds. Still it is behind me and blows me along to the locks of Fort Augustus and my finish. These locks are identical to those at the start of the Way, Neptune’s staircase at Banavie. I had originally considered going further today onto Invermoriston but the change in weather and the knowledge that one of the infrequent buses back to Fort William was due in 15 minutes made my mind up to finish here for the day.

Fort Augustus 5 minutes prior to the storm

Whilst waiting for my bus (in the shelter out of the wind and rain) a tourist bus pulled up and deposited a lot of Italians, who in their fashionable dress and style, looked under whelmed with the heavy rain. Not wet enough to stop almost all of them lighting cigarettes. Double whammy for them, as my bus went over the canal I saw them all queuing up for the incorporated small boat loch cruise. In this wind and rain, happy memories of Scotland.
Despite or because of the mixture of wind, rain, sun and blue skies I enjoyed my walk.  Distance was 9.46 miles with minimal ascent. 3 and a half hours of splendid Scottish countryside, nowhere else I would really want to be.

Great Glen Way Clunes - Laggan

After an overnight stay in Fort William we had a free morning so we decided to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way (from now on known as GGW). The good lady would drive me to my last finishing point at Clunes, walk some of it with me, return and take the car to the other end at Laggan.
Another bright but breezy day saw us head down the track. There is a warning that this section to Laggan locks is in a remote location without any households and as I found out no phone signal. Also the main Inverness road is at the other side of Loch Lochy. Don't break an ankle.

The first section

The route guidance suggests taking the lower section where there is a good forest track all the way. If you were going to take in the mountains then I understand the higher path is better for you.
The first two miles or so are through woodlands with the occasional glimpses of the hills on the left and the loch on your right. As well as good views back to the Nevis range.

Nevis Range

Because there is a reasonable gap between the trees the track is not dark and oppressive like some other woodland sections. If you are into the fauna these are plentiful and varied with plenty of insect life to keep you interested.
We met our 1st person of the day, a German who had completed the West Highland Way and was now doing the GGW camping as he went.

Typical early section

Mrs headed back and I soon broke out of the trees into a super viewing section, lochs and mountains. A brief stop for a good look around with the binos. There looks like 3 different mountains at this point and over the top of the 1st mountain (either Meall Coire Lochain or Meall Na Teanga) came a golden eagle gliding on the thermals but an excellent clear and unmistakeable sighting through the binos. Then it spiralled down landing on the mountainside. I presume it had spotted some carrion as it was not an attacking dive as if after a hare or suchlike. On each of the next two hills I could see an single stag munching near the high tops, I would not have noticed these through eyesight alone.

Eagle mountain

A couple of quite elderly people biked past heading south and although briefly smiled made no attempt to stop. Full panniers so maybe doing the whole route as well. I then met up with a couple of Germans also heading south. They were enjoying this section of the GGW but not very complimentary about the Loch Ness section, a deforested bleakness with no loch views. Told them about the eagle about half a mile back so they headed off and would take a food break and watch, I hope they saw it.

Looking north about half way

I pass a new toilet block but this is only an available function if you have a key which might be part of a canoe route. It is beside an overnight camping beach. A bit odd to have this facility but only available to a select few. Not a bad place to stop, get the rod out and find a few brown trout for supper. I believe Loch Lochy is a free fishing water.

Canoe section noticeboard

Further on I meet 4 English walkers, one of whom was astonished that I had seen an eagle, they exist here was the question!! Well yes they do, just look up. They were more interested in sighting a pine martin and were disappointed when I said that in all my years of walking I had seen every Scottish predator on numerous occasions but never that one. Still you never know.

Kilfinnan view of Ceann Loch

The rest of the walk to Laggan Locks is straightforward, nothing to get too excited about just enjoy the day. A few lodges at Kilfinnan which would be a good base if hillwalking. 2 more mountain bikers going south. Then I do come across some very black scat on the path, fresh as well as a dung beetle is investigating. Could it be the scat of the elusive pine martin?
The view of the Locks area is a nice contrast to the track, green fields, yellow gorse, sheep and the boats. There is also some activity on the canal water. A few different canoeists about to set off. There is a barge docked here (The Eagle) which seems to be a pub but too early for me.

The canal stretch to the Laggan Swing Bridge is actually more of a wooded river walk than a canal, nothing too interesting and then I finish at the road crossing at Loch Oich. There were 3 boats coming down from the north so I sit on the grass and watch the swing-bridge open to let them through. Exciting life I lead. Waves all round from the crews.

Loch Oich Laggan Swing Bridge

Walk over for the day. Just under 10 miles, not much excitement but I did enjoy it. My next GGW stretch will be from here to Fort Augustus. 
Now we are heading for Lochaline for a few days outdoor fun, more on next blogs.