Meall an t-Slamain

Slamain from Fort William

If there is a finer 360 degree perspective, for a hill of this size, anywhere in Scotland, then I have not yet been on it, point me in the right direction. The Hughs book strikes out yet again. Meall an t-Slamain is special. Indeed the views will outdo many a so called superior: Munro; Corbett; Graham; Donald etc. I know I was possibly lucky in that the air clarity was superb, the snow encrusted tops and the bursts of blue sky defined the beauty of Scotland but still I was there today and the views were magnificent. It is a rarely climbed hill in this area as it sits across the water from the great Ben and all the wonderful mountains that surround it.
I was based in Fort William and had the option of a short walk from the hotel to catch the 15 minute ferry across Loch Linnhe to the start of the walk.  My only issue was matching descent time with a ferry back, if like me when a walk is over so am I, no hanging about. So I decided to drive the Mallaig road then cut around Loch Eil and glad I did with this mornings moody perspective.
Beautiful.

Loch Eil

As I was driving I decided to start from the radio mast/view point Agro track at Achnaphubuil, only because it was the first point reached, rather than the conventional ferry start at Camusnagaul.

The start

There had been overnight snow and an ice warning, a cold day ahead? But soon after starting the walk I had already shed my mid layer and proceeded to sweat profusely all the way up to the radio mast. I had been blocked up all week so put it down to that rather than lack of fitness . Why sweating considering the temp gauge showed only 2 degrees at the start.

The track and the summit top right

The Agro track pulls you all the way to the radio mast at 290 metres. It is a man made track, not pretty but it gets you there. Don’t worry there is plenty of non track moorland ahead to keep the purists happy. The sun was directly in my eyes so limited looking up. Just as well as it is a steep pull so head down, just get on with it.

Once the mast is reached, stop and take in the views all around, enjoy in the knowledge that it gets even better.

From the small trig there are a couple of posts suggesting a track but you know it is really not there and after 100 yards or so just take some bearings and head across the moorland towards the summit. As always there are a few false summits to keep you interested, am I nearly there, no. 

The false markers

About 2/3rds of the way up the snow line is reached but the worst of it is on the northwest flanks so pick your way between the snow, the bogs and there is some good walking. I spot some fresh deer tracks and follow them for a bit before realising that unlike me they are not interested in a trig point so I leave them and readjust my direction. The walking poles go deep into some of the drifts, iced up streams to be avoided, but if care taken the walking is okay and different enough to be fun.

The humps to the summit

Finally after about 90 minutes I reach the top. There are about 3 small false cairns along the way. The views in every direction are just outstanding. The large peak away west can only be Ben More on Mull. Loch Eil and its hills stand out. Looking north the canal locks at Banavie and the Great Glen. And just across the loch Ben Nevis and all the hills, quite outstanding.

Ben Nevis and Fort William

I head back via the same route and about 5 minutes down I hear the fighters engines roar. Close by but where. I spot it down on Loch Eil then it turns and climbs and I think its heading right to me. Then it goes side on through the glen between me and the Corbett Stob Coire a’Chearcaill, the plane outlined below me, what a sight, what a noise, then it heads south climbing into the sky. Had I been on the summit the view would have been even better.

Cairn looking south

Soon after whilst picking my route descending I hear music, what, and two youngsters appear. T shirt clad, I know I was sweating on the way up but that is for youngsters only. Getting a chill just thinking about it.

Cairn looking over Loch Eil

A reasonably straightforward descent to the radio mast although take care, my foot did sink in a few times to ankle depth through the moss.
Another 10 minutes spent at the trig point taking in the wonderful view then back down the Agro track to the car.
Apart from one red grouse, a distant kestrel, a flight of geese and the deer tracks that was it for the wildlife today.
Ascent was 452 metres, distance 4.68 miles and time taken 3.18 hours ( you can spend a lot longer taking in the views). Well worth the effort, big style.