A Pilgrim ramble.....St Ninians Cave

Walk: St Ninians's Cave

This short ramble was inspired by the Pilgrims walk from Glasgow to Whithorn but this is certainly not the full walk, only a very, very short section, the final mile or so. A recent visit to the Govan Stones and a chat with the staff kicked it off. Many pilgrims past and present would have visited the Govan site en route. Well worth visiting.

I was in the area for a break with the good lady site who was happy with a short walk to visit this historic place.

Scotland has so much history of all kinds and on my rambles I enjoy stopping and immersing myself in locations and try to imagine the sounds, sights, smells etc. of that history.

St Ninians Cave has been documented as a place of worship and healing back to the 8^th century. St Ninian is reputed to be the 1st Saint in Scotland, 397AD. That's a huge wow for me. The Latinus Stone on display at the Priory is the oldest surviving Christian memorial.

The ramble will be narrated mainly via the snaps.

Well sign posted

Despite the time of year the birds were still singing in this lovely wooded section

Out of the woods there are options

But we continued straight on down Physgill Glen where the water soon came into view. Despite it being summer the weather was cool, the water was gunmetal grey rather than Mediterranean blue but this is Scotland.

Colourful flora such as this Campion all around the path as we walked down

Evidence of geological upheaval 

A true shingle beach to cross to wards the cave seen ahead. Not much different to what the 8th century pilgrims would have seen

How smooth are these?

A recent podcast suggested that rocks with this quartz strata lining had a good chance of containing a fossil. Same podcast examined rocks from Nairn area and found some minerals had only be found in rocks in Estonia. Considering they started being formed sub equator they have travelled a long way.

Just reflect on the exact spot and cave entrance, those early travellers all stood here. The interior has collapsed so only the entrance is clear, although danger of rockfall signs around.

Not quite sure she is a pilgrim!

Free Sea Kale for your foraging diet

Rock Pipit

Trail back that away

The season is coming to an end

So an excellent short ramble. For those a lot more adventurous the walk can be comfortable extended by doing a circuit from Whithorn or including some of the way marked coastal paths.

Time to relax, some mead would be appropriate.

No wet feet today.....Am Faochagach

Hill: Am Faochagach (The Heathery Place)

Type: Munro

Height: 954m

There is one big problem with bagging this Munro and that is the Abhainn a’Ghrabainn. Described by Walkhighlands as ‘a substantial watercourse and can be a formidable obstacle when in spate conditions impassable’. Indeed I have watched videos of less than spate conditions and even in these the crossing looked challenging, at least the chance of wet feet.

We started at the same car park for the eastern Fannichs on another glorious day. The renowned initial section is known for its bogs and although there were some it was mainly dry.

Just think about this flowing knee high and you cannot see the bottom when wading?

I had brought along my river crossing sandals but on the day a decision had to be made. It was running very low but I had not appreciate just how much of a boulder field it was on the river bed. We decided to rock hop, there were many slimy boulders waiting to catch us out but we made it. Even with knee deep water this would be a nasty little crossing with the amount of boulders embedded in the river bed.

Heading for the bealach, summit not in sight from here

Once across the terrain was very dry, the 2^nd bog patch not really arriving. However with the dry & heat there were lots of flying bitey stuff, glad I had sprayed fully before walking.

It is a steady climb to the bealach. The lower section was on a reasonable narrow path running alongside the burn with a small waterfall, no doubt more spectacular at other times but still a good spot for refilling bottles.

After that the going is more boulder strewn with the path coming and going and quite a few not required cairns, more for artistic merit than navigation aids.

Beinn Dearg & Loch nan Eilean (and a UFO)

Although it is a direct plod the higher you go the more mountains you can see so lots of stops and looking around, Beinn Dearg is so close.

After reaching the ridge it is a reasonable slog on a decent gradient all the way to the summit. Again on and off paths but much more boulder strewn. On our way to the summit we passed at least 3 Ptarmigan so a good spot for them.

Summit comes into view

The final 50m rise to the summit was interesting as there seemed to be a series of moraines all with around a foot or so of rise/drop. Possibly the effect of the ice age where the glaciers were melting bit by bit? Interesting geological feature anyway.

Summit to Beinn Dearg

Seana Braigh from summit, cairn is on the left

Worth spending time up here as the views are top notch. A super view of the top plateau of Seana Braigh.

Straightforward descent by simply repeating the ascent including the boulder hop. On the way down we passed more walkers than I expected to see for a midweek ramble, a busy hill today.

Great views on the descent of the Fannichs and Loch a’Ghrabainn. In the distance the Fisherfields, Torridon and much more.

Annoyingly we also saw two walkers with dogs, off leads, running about the boulders potentially scaring away any ground nesting birds, there are still idiots around.

Ascent: 774m

Distance: 14.6km

Time: 5.22

Wildlife: Cuckoo (heard); Meadow Pipit; Ptarmigan x3; Raven; Red Grouse; Chimney Sweep moth;

Reservoir track meets Windfarm track eventually meets hill..... Carleatherarn

Hill: Carleatherarn (The fort by the swamp)

Type: Sub2k

Height: 485m

Carleatherarn had been on my to-do list for a year or so but today it was chosen more as a guide to fitness for higher and longer rambles.

About 3 weeks ago I had severely strained my right medial calf muscle and boy did it hurt. I found that I could cycle with medium pain but walking any distance was a no no without severe pain and that muscle tightening again.

In a few days I had a planned long distance ramble that I needed to know whether I had any chance of completion or whether to pull out.

There are two options for this hill basically from the north with the possibility of cattle, a short steep ascent followed by bog and peat at the higher levels heading for the summit. Or from the south with a longer ramble but mainly along hard picked water board and wind farm tracks.

I needed to test that leg muscle endurance so the south option was chosen.

To get there involved a final section of single track roads that rivalled anything the highlands has to offer. Beautiful countryside by the way when I had the chance to look sideways instead of praying that I wasn't meeting anything coming my way.

Surprised at how much water coming down the falls but reservoir controlled and they might have been releasing water

I didn't meet any traffic and reached the start at the Earl’s Burn waterfall. So much for avoiding the coos who were on the grass near the start but the herd were happy sitting chewing the cud and ignored me.

Just knew a wee stone or three would get into my boots

The track up to Earlsburn Reservoir 1 was hard going on a stony hard packed surface. Calf muscle was already complaining and I wondered how far I would get.

Not sure but think it might be juvenile Stonechat, saw adult pair on the way back

I had considered cycling the two reservoirs but a locked gate at the fishing club would have scuppered that. When they spotted me the barnacle geese headed out to the centre of the reservoir.

The track was still hard on the feet until I reached reservoir 2 and a short section on rough wet/boggy ground where it was not hard on the feet but on my achilles.

Carleatherarn to the right of the turbine

So I opted to change my planned route and headed up to to the nearest visible turbine (No6 as it turned out).

This detour meant a longer walk on the hard packed wind farm roads.

Windfarm ramble

Weather good, birds singing, calf sore & tight but not worsened, life could be harder.

A solo cyclist broke my solitude but that changed big style when a convoy of 5 vehicles came roaring up from behind creating a dust storm.

Looks dilapidated but that's often deliberate to reduce curious walkers taking a peek.

I had a brief chat with them, all the workers had English accents, so much for these unsightly utilities creating local employment. Then continuing up the track to meet the grouse butts. I was surprised at how many there were over the landscape. They were well kept but despite their numbers I neither spotted nor heard any grouse.

Fine stone mound

Seen better here

A rough track led to the huge ancient cairn and trig of Carleatherarn. This is the highest point on the Gargunnock Hills but is also included within the Campsie Fells region. No surprise that this was a valued hill, the views were superb all round. It is said 100 miles plus on a clear air day. 

View back to the reservoirs

Sub2k of Stronend highest point on the left

Today was mot such a day but still the Firth of Forth was glittering in the distance. I was on mainly paths bit looking around it is easy to see how the hill got its name.

Earl's Seat right of pylon

Back to real walking

I was pleased that my calf had got this far but it was far from normal and I had a couple of hours walking back on the same terrain.

Common Sandpiper

Stonechat (m)

As such I simply backtracked with the highlight being spotting a Common Sandpiper. Walked back to the car in a much hotter temperature than the ascent. With 2 reservoirs and a burn plenty of opportunities to top up the water. 

The final stone section after the last dam was difficult for me but although it was throbbing I was glad the calf had passed the first test, so long as it doesn't tighten up overnight.

Another ramble in a new part of the country so all good.

Ascent: 293m

Distance: 14.8km

Time: 3.35

Wildlife: Skylark; Meadow Pipit; Red Kite; Raven; Carrion Crow; Common Sandpiper; Stonechat; Barnacle geese; Pied Wagtail; Wood pigeon, Curlew; Chaffinch, Swallow; House Martin;

A fine day for an outstanding hill.....Beinn Resipol

Hill: Beinn Resipol (Homestead)

Type: Corbett

Height: 845m

This was my 4^th attempt to bag this cracking hill which has been on my to-do list almost since I started hillwalking. On the other occasions my free day had been wet and/or cloudy but I was holding out for a clear weather day as I knew that the views would be spectacular and today was one such a day. The SMC book describes the view from the top as ‘ one of the finest views along the West Highland coastline’ so not too be missed.

There are two options for the ascent and I chose the one from Resipol caravan site which is arguably tougher, longer with a greater ascent as starting from sea level. But, you do have the conical view of the hill whereas from the eastern approach the summit is of the flatter ridge and not quite so scenic.

I had been warned that the walk from here could be a bog fest but I was confidant that after these weeks of no rain the going would be ok.

Lovely view down Loch Sunart at the start

I was aware that the caravan park had changed hands and was not sure about parking but good for them they have left space for about 5/6 cars for hill walkers.

It was a very quick boot change as the midgies were in full biting mode, wow, should I get my head net out?

Headed off through the beautiful oak woods full of birdsong and thankfully no midgies. A short open section before hitting a mixed natural wood, there was good shade for a while. I was struggling to get a good walking/breathing rhythm as the track steepened.

The boggy (dry) section

Out on the hillside I now had a view of the hill which it looked quite steep from here. This middle grassy section was the bog fest and although it had dried up considerably there were still many unavoidable boots in mud sections but a lot better than it might have been.

Then onto rougher ground following the right hand side of the Allt Mhic Chiarain where it enters a nice narrow gully. The track is very narrow at times and is easily lost particularly as the ascent steepens sharply and slight hands on sections add to the interest.

Looking ahead I could not see any obvious route but the as I gain height the track does begin to head towards the bealach on the left of the summit. It looked very craggy but I was sure a route would be there.

Large cairn is up there

A slight plateau is reached and you could head up at any spot as there were a few narrow grassy sections between the boulders.

Views east Ardgour Corbetts forefront Mamores behind

Loch Sunart

But I continued on the rising plateau until it almost drops away before making my meandering route upwards through the boulders to the top.

Loch Sunart to left Loch Shiel on the right

A short easy scramble leads to the top and its huge cairn. Then a wee scramble up the stones to the wooden pole marking the summit.

Loch Shiel back to Glenfinnan

The SMC description did not mislead. The views, despite the slight haze, did not disappoint. Quite stunning a widespread as the snaps show.

Back down via the lochan

Sadly up top the midgies had returned now supported by clegs, I killed two of them before deciding to down by the same route.

Eigg on left, Rum behind

Back at the car I was delighted to find that there was a breeze and it was midge free, yippee.

Today was a top ramble to a fine peak and I was so glad that I had waited for that blue sky day. Also worked up a good appetite for the taster menu at The Kilcamb Hotel which was only a few hours away.

Ascent: 868m

Distance: 12.9km

Time: 4.56

Wildlife: Mistle Thrush; Greenshank; Meadow Pipit; Grey Wagtail; Cuckoo (h); Woodpecker (h); Willow Warbler;